Probably break in water line

[jimindenver]

We stopped using the toilet in the traditional sense after the first trip and went back to what we knew. What for decades was a bucket, toilet seat and 13 Gal bags became 4 gal bags lining the toilet.

Honey wanted it that way because so many of the used trailers smelt so bad. I went along because of the water savings not having to flush the toilet and doubling the gray tank. We couldn't stay out more than a week if we didn't bag it.

About the chemicals. They stink as bad as the crap in my opinion. I am hyper sensitive and due to all the chemicals and fumes over the years. Most air fresheners, perfumes and what not will congest my lungs in no time. The smell of the tank may turn your stomach but at least I am still breathing.

 

[B and C]

Where do you store a weeks worth (or more) of used bags?  If two of us fill a 12 gallon tank, that would require 3-5 gallon buckets for storage.  I would be afraid of a leak from a bag that didn't get closed well or heaven forbid, a bag that ripped.  I would think the storage bucket for these bags would smell pretty badly when opened to make another deposit too. I could be wrong though, not the first time

 

[jimindenver]

We boondock deep. No neighbors for miles. We use a smaller bucket to remove it, no leaking. A diaper bucket a ways off lined with a heavy yard bag and then a scented bag is where the little bags go. Each ummm, load is not that big so we have never had a issue with the pail filling up. When it's time the scented bag is closed up, then the lawn bag and the pail closed up. Smell hasn't been a issue as long as it's closed up and at home it goes into a can that a truck picks up. No one touches it.

Not only do we not have to waste the water to flush, we don't have to start the trip with enough water in the black tank to not have a mountain of poo. We carry 60 gallons of fresh and have two 27 gallon waste tanks. When the gray get close to filling up, I open the gray valve and then the black. The tanks equalize and we get more room for shower water without having to manually pull water out and dump it in the toilet.

So no smell from the tank or perfumes. More fresh water and waste tank to extend trips and oh yeah, the toilet is MUCH easier to clean now.

 

[B and C]

I have a 35 gal fresh tank supplemented by two Reliant 7 gal water containers and usually a couple of single gal milk jugs.  I have a 12 gal black - 11 usable as one gal fresh to start with the bacteria added after first use and a 12 gal honey wagon. Also have a 27 gal grey tank.  When the toilet is used, the fantastic vent fan is put on reverse (so it pulls air inside) to pressurize the cabin.  Open toilet, do my business, flush and shut the lid.  No smells either.  I also have an outside shower so shower water does not go into the grey tank.  Propane is my most limiting factor with only 10 gal usable (12 gal tank) permanently affixed.

 

[K1ngN0thing]

I've filled the heater tank and the pump is silent, which confirms that the valve wasn't completely blocking flow. That said, I'm pretty sure I broke my heater. Before I knew what I was doing I turned it on (without water in it), and now the light doesn't come on.

 

[highdesertranger]

if it's electric you probably ruined your element, easy fix. if it's gas it should be ok. highdesertranger

 

[K1ngN0thing]

Turns out I popped the reset button. First shower test will be in a couple of days.

 

[highdesertranger]

good to hear. highdesertranger

 

[jimindenver]

You are getting good at this. Good Job!

 

[TMG51]

Turns out I popped the reset button. First shower test will be in a couple of days.

Reset button... I've been wondering about that. Next to my water heater switch, there's a spot that says "reset," but the reset label is next to a light and not any kind of switch. So I've yet to figure out what that label/light is telling me.

 

[highdesertranger]

I think the reset button is for models that have an electric element. highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

I think all Roadtreks come with propane only water heaters.  They are a Suburban with DSI (direct spark ignition).  If it is electric, someone changed it out.

When you first turn on the propane tank, light the stove top first.  It is the highest point in the system and propane is heavier than air.

The water heater and the furnace are set up to only try to light three times.  If they don't light, they stop trying.

I found this out when I first started while trying to light the fridge.  Mine has a button you have to hold in when you press the igniter button and continue to hold it for a minute after it is lit.  This is to heat up the thermocouple to hold the propane valve open.  It wouldn't light until I lit the stove top, then it lit right away.  

Do you still have the original Magnatek charger/converter?  These are notorious battery killers as they are only two stage.  Only two of the 12v circuits have a noise suppressor on them too.

I changed mine for a Progressive Dynamics one that is a direct replacement.  These PD units get good reviews.

Check your propane detector and carbon monoxide detector dates.  They expire.

 

[TMG51]

While we're taking about water heater oddities, I've mine lights as soon as I flip the switch about 80% of the time. The other 20% of the time it just doesn't light. I don't even hear it try to spark. I thought at first this was a gas issue and tried lighting the stove etc as you said. Made no difference. Then one day I used the sink while the heater was in a 20% mood. It lit. Ever since then every time it doesn't come on I run the water a bit and it fires up... Makes no sense to me.

Also, I know that my propane detector goes off when my date spills beer on it.

 

[B and C]

I don't know how often you fire up the water heater.  They are insulated very well with Styrofoam and they retain heat a long time.  It sounds like you are catching it just before the water heater would come on on its' own if you left the switch in the on position.  Putting a little cold water in it drops the water temp just that degree or two to make it kick on.

 

[TMG51]

No, I fire the water heater up only once every 2 days for a shower and then turn it off immediately after.

 

[B and C]

If you don't turn the WH on and then turn the shower on, does warm water come out after clearing the lines of the now cold water in them?  I stuck a remote thermometer probe between the insulation and tank on mine.  When the temp gets to ~103 I turn the WH off.  This allows for a shower without having to mix in cold water to adjust the temperature and saves propane too.  I capture the water coming out of the shower head until it gets warm for other uses or put it back in the fresh water tank.  The water in the tank never gets hot enough to shut off by itself.

 

[B and C]

Did you miss the part about firing up the stove top after you turn the propane tank on?  You should not have to fire up the stove top if the propane tank has not been turned off.  

Turn off the propane tank anytime you move your vehicle or if parked and unused for any period of time (storage).  If you are in an accident (your fault or not) and one of the propane lines is ruptured, there is a very real possibility of a fire.  

Water heaters have a thermostat built in to turn off the gas supply when it reaches the thermostat preset temperature.  Why they set the thermostat so hi, I don't know but it can be as high as 130 degrees or more.  Where the low set point to turn it on again I don't know.  If your water is staying within this range, you heater won't come on.  Ambient temperature plays a role also.  If you are in a warmer climate, the water in the tank will not cool off very fast, in a cold climate, it will lose heat much faster.  IMO it sounds like you are in a temperate climate and the water in the tank has just not cooled off enough for the WH to kick on.

YMMV

 

[TMG51]

Thanks but in the scenario I'm describing the water from the hot water line is always stone cold.

I haven't been able to think of any explanation either.

 

[B and C]

Then it is starting to sound like a bad temperature sensor (or connection).  The vibration of the water entering causes it to start?  The next time it does not start, you might take off the outer door, wiggle wires (where the temperature sensors are).  Be careful of the larger red wire as that is the DSI igniter for the fire (spark).  Maybe tap on the sensors.  If this does not do anything, there is a control board separate from the heater that provides the spark and is usually located inside the coach right next to the WH.  You might try tapping on that.  I am not saying take a hammer to these tapping points.  A light tap with something solid and preferably not metal.  If the WH fires up, you have narrowed the search.

If these don't lead to a resolution, I recommend removing the anode rod and draining the tank (release pressure at a faucet first or you will get soaked, I did when I forgot).  See if there is a lot of calcium in it.

These tanks are a lot smaller than one you find in a S&B.  This means they require more maintenance than a house WH.  The recommendation is to drain the tank twice a year and inspect the anode rod.  Change the anode rod before it gets to be just a steel rod left.  Use white Teflon tape on the threads when you put the rod back in.  I have a "wand" that I store in the outside WH door area for washing the calcium out of the tank.  This does a good job of it and I always get calcium out.

I just replaced (about a month ago) my WH as the PO had not taken care of the tank and the blue plastic coating inside was coming out when I flushed the tank.  I ran it this way for about two years before I decided I better replace it while I was at home rather than in a forest somewhere with a rusted out and leaking WH.  Do not scrape the inside of the tank, that plastic liner is thin.  Spray at the back of the tank (up, down and all around) to wash the calcium out the anode rod hole.

 

[K1ngN0thing]

Water heater works. Hot out of the tap, but my shower isn't plumbed to the hot. Is there a way to attach your standard 1/2 inch hose to a faucet?