Only took eight months to find

[DollarJoe67]

Waited&nbsp;eight months to find the right van, but patience paid off.&nbsp; 1997 E150 high top conversion, 103k mi.&nbsp; Pics to follow.&nbsp; I started pulling off all the custom paneling and discovered that custom paneling wastes&nbsp;80% of space that it covers.&nbsp; And no insulation.&nbsp; What a rip off for the price of a conversion.&nbsp; Glad I didn't buy it new.&nbsp; Soooooo excited!<br><br>Fun Fact:&nbsp; The 12" tv was 12v, so that will be a little bit of useful pre-wiring.

 

[Ballenxj]

Congratulations on your new van. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> Got any pics of it you can post? I'm especially curious to see under the paneling as you pull it out.<br>&nbsp;No insulation? SHAME on them! <img src="/images/boards/smilies/frown.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[caseyc]

Interesting, I wonder if my own 95 Ford E150 conversion van has insulation under the panels. &nbsp;I like my panels, so I'm keeping them, but now I'm curious.

 

[rabiesandpeewee]

If there's any space under the paneling, it couldn't hurt to detach it, fill with foam or fiberglass, and re-attach the paneling. Any kind of paneling is going to be homier than metal walls...that's my feeling, anyway.

 

[ontheroadagain]

just an fyi. I looked behind my paneling in my 97 dodge ram van conversion has insulation in the walls and ceiling. 1/2" white Styrofoam and maybe 2" paper backed scratchy type.<br>It was a Mark III conversion

 

[James AKA Lynx]

Take out the paneling and put in shelves. You may like the space for weekly needed items.<br><br>James AKA Lynx

 

[Les H]

Cool!

 

[DollarJoe67]

Some pics. I pulled off the ceiling panel(s) and saw very little insulation. However, I began to pull off the wall panels and saw lots of fluff insulation. Going camping Memorial Day weekend, so gonna hold off on the walls for now. I don't want to be breathing fiberglass while camping.

 

[ilovemyvan]

So, so nice. It looks in such a good shape too. It should be fun to camp in it before you start the transformation, you might have new ideas. <br><br>We have an E150 as well, ours was not a tv but just a 12v screen for the dvd player. Hope you have better luck.<br><br>Enjoy your adventures.<br><br>Nicole

 

[DollarJoe67]

Pulled off the side panels completely.&nbsp; Very little insulation, as expected.&nbsp; Also, detatched the rear seatbelts.&nbsp; That was a pain in the ass.&nbsp; Wish I had a mini-me.&nbsp; Almost ready to rebuild.&nbsp; Going to pull the carpet tomorrow and see what it looks like under there.

 

[Ziggy Moon]

DollarJoe, you got to keep posting pictures, step by step would be great.<br><br> My Dodge conversion hightop looks just like this at the moment (I ripped it all out), even has the same identical topper. I've been trying to come up with a plan, but I think I'll wait and see what you do with yours - maybe steal one or two of your ideas!

 

[DollarJoe67]

<p>Hahaha.&nbsp; That would have been difficult to do.&nbsp; I just went at it with an electric screwdriver where ever it seemed best at the time.&nbsp; Here&nbsp;are my disassembling steps so far:<br><br>1.&nbsp; Removed middle passenger seats and rear bench seat.<br>2.&nbsp; Detached all cosmetic wood-grain panels.<br>2.&nbsp;&nbsp;Located and unscrewed main ceiling panel screws and removed panel.<br>3.&nbsp; Removed front and rear overhead storage panels and electronics<br>4.&nbsp; Detached seat belts from floor (pain in the ass.&nbsp; best done with two people, must get under vehicle)<br>5.&nbsp; Haphazardly removed screws securing wall panels (some were hidden behind panel fabric).&nbsp; Removed wall panels.<br><br>Next:&nbsp; Pull up carpeting beginning just behind cockpit seats.&nbsp; (I'm not going to touch the cockpit for stealth purposes).&nbsp; I suspect there is a pre-cut plywood floor down there.&nbsp;&nbsp;Also, going to remove ceiling furring and most of rear A/C vents.&nbsp;(Going to create wall vent rather than ceiling vent)</p>

 

[creationode]

That is great to get your van down to the metal like that.&nbsp; Mine came bare already, but I wish it had trim that I would have pulled out in the back, just so that the previous owners would not have dropped a chemical grenade in the back for me to clean up.&nbsp; It is BAD.<br><br>I suggest you keep a ceiling vent.&nbsp; Any ventage near the floor will have to contend with whatever you actually place along the sides like cabinets etc.<br><br>Cold air drops, as well, so having the vent in the ceiling, helps with the cold air doing that. <br><br>It is also much easier to physically DIRECT/MODIFY the vent openings from the ceiling, as you will have a pretty open space to direct that cool air through (instead of the obstacles of the floor vent).&nbsp; For the ceiling, you can install a simple PVC coupling, and cut slots/holes in it to make an omnidirectional, selective AC vent unit.<br><br>OK, I go!<br><br>I wish I had a high top sometimes...sigh.

 

[DollarJoe67]

Carpet is up.&nbsp; I also removed the rear A/C vents.&nbsp; The floor was unexpected.&nbsp; There is a piece of what looks like thick particle board(not plywood) under the "cargo" area,&nbsp; a large metal plate which was fastened to the rear passenger seats, and then dense 3/4" gray foam topped with 1/2" light yellow foam.&nbsp; All covered with carpet.&nbsp; Some kind of spray adhesive was used on the wheel wells and around edges to secure the carpet.&nbsp; The gray foam looks molded to the floor but isnt.&nbsp; The Mark III people shaved the bottom to fit.&nbsp; I read on another thread someone was concerned about&nbsp;securing solar panels&nbsp;into the hi-top so I included a pic of some furings screwed into my roof.<br><br>Note:&nbsp; I've come across three or four bolts (mainly securing seat belts) which require a star bit and are torqued down very tight.&nbsp; I spent $5 on one bit and destroyed it.&nbsp; Going to get the pros to take them out.

 

[creationode]

Husky makes a set of very very tough Torx bits, as they star bits are called.&nbsp; <br><br>It cost me something like $20.&nbsp; I have used them to take out my seatbelts and some other gigantic Torx bolts as well.&nbsp; I can't even imagine them being stripped.&nbsp; They are guaranteed for life.&nbsp; Check 'em out.

 

[DollarJoe67]

BONDO!!!&nbsp; I have conquered the Bondo monster.&nbsp; This was my first time using Bondo and it lives up to its reputation.&nbsp; Easy mix.&nbsp; Easy application.&nbsp; Was a bit messy, but did the trick.<br><br>I used Bondo to fill in bolt and screw holes created for/by seatbelts and flooring.&nbsp; Worked really well.&nbsp; Just a few notes if you wish to try this.&nbsp; Two substances must be mixed:&nbsp; the bondo and a hardening agent.&nbsp; Once mixed, it hardens fast so you must apply quickly.&nbsp; Also, a little hardening agent goes a long way.<br><br>EDIT:&nbsp; Bondo has a putty seal for holes.&nbsp; I used Bondo filler agent.&nbsp; This does not work well on large holes(quarter sized).&nbsp; It will just seep through.&nbsp; I had to really goop it on, to make it work.&nbsp; For some holes, I crawled under my van and taped the back side of each hole.

 

[ontheroadagain]

I have a 1997 dodge ram b2500 van Mark III conversion I am working on also. The inside of my ceiling is the same as yours when stripped.<br>I wanted to say that I ventured putting in a 14x14" roof vent in the roof. I centered it on the roof (side to side) in the rear most section of the roof.<br>I was surprised to find out the roof is plywood. (at least in the rear where I cut). I am going to start a post of my build with some pictures.

 

[Ziggy Moon]

<span id="post_message_1278244866">I've come across three or four bolts (mainly securing seat belts) which require a star bit and are torqued down very tight.&nbsp; I spent $5 on one bit and destroyed it. </span>

<br><br>I still have those same bolts (with L shaped bracket) in my floor! I didn't, and still don't have a star bit large enough to take them out.<br><br>Thanks for sharing the pix, DollarJoe.

 

[DollarJoe67]

OnTheRoadAgain,&nbsp;I too plan on installing a roof vent.&nbsp; Just haven't figured out where I want it.&nbsp; Or where to get one.&nbsp; I don't like ordering stuff online without seeing it first.<br><br>Ziggy, Mine was a #50 star bit from Sears.&nbsp; But as I said, its destroyed, so make sure you buy a quality bit.

 

[creationode]

I went ahead and did my own roof vent for the economy and learning involved.&nbsp; It was quite simple, and totally waterproof, and can be removed, and can accept a fan later on.<br><br>I went to HD and bought this, in the white color.&nbsp; I sprayed it in white Rustoleum enamel:<br><strong>http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-F...ent-in-Black-SSB960ABL/100041904#.UbNfFZwsy00</strong><br><br>I used these tools to cut the steel of the roof:<br><strong>http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html</strong><br><strong>http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-aviation-tinner-snip-set-69000.html</strong><br><br>Once I figured it out, and went through four blades, the body saw cut the roof square like butter. <br>I then used the snips to make it a circle.&nbsp; They were very easy to use, very strong snips.<br><br>I then used BONDO!, silicone, and four bolts/nuts to mount it all down.<br>On the inside, I used putty tape.&nbsp; Putty tape is incredible, and does not dry out.&nbsp; Easy to remove.<br><strong>http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...m-qgG2q4GYBw&amp;ved=0CJABEPUBMAY&amp;dur=406</strong><br><br>Home Depot has a large assortment of vents, and they will all work on your roof.&nbsp; Some of them are very tall, though.&nbsp; I chose the one I did because it is low in height, designed to shed water, and very very cheap.<br><br><br>