Old Rv engine motor repairs

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

lf6998

Active member
Joined
Nov 9, 2017
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Location
WI
Hello, 

I am searching for a small RV, probably going to be an older one.  I have a line on 2 right now.

My question on the road, out West, NM, TX, CA, WA, AZ etc.

Is it hard to find mechanics that can work on older engine, example:  1978,  360 engine,  Dodge van chassis, carburetor, rear wheel drive, no fuel injection etc.

Old time engine, no computers. 


I appreciate the quality of older Rv's not the poorly constructed of today.   But as a female I can only do fluid checks, oil change not
repair work. 

Feedback would be appreciated, 

Looking for a Class B or B+, not a fan of C with bed over cab wasted space to me. Not a fan of truck campers with back and knee issues getting in and out of bed.  Same reason a standard cargo van would be hard on back but will be a last resort, eventually adding a fiberglass high top. 

Thank you, appreciate assistance.
 
There may be more mechanics that can fix a pre-computer vehicle than you suspect. Especially in sw usa. I have a 1987 and it's getting hard to find parts except from China.
 
That thing could be repaired by pretty much anyone, with possibly one exception.

That is riiiiiiight around the year of the "magical mystery Chrysler ignition module."
As they get older, they can fail intermittently and only have issues when hot, cold, wet...under load...etc.
(Towed to the shop, your mechanic starts it cold and it runs like a top...he drives it ten miles...runs like a top.
You take off into the hot desert 35 miles later and it dies on you...again.)

There are two ways to deal with this.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
preparation number one, which should cost about 40-80 dollars.
Buy a new Chrysler ignition box.
Have the new one installed and put your known good used one into the box as a spare.
(Sometimes, the new ones are NG right out of the box. Happens more often than people think.)
If you go this route I suggest AGAINST buying the cheapest Chinese unit you can find.
There will be options usually in cost. In this case, go for the better option.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
preparation number two. (and the way to make that thing much more reliable...as in, 150,000 miles of "no touch/no hassle" service)
Get HEI ignition for that 360, which replaces the finicky Chrysler with modern, ultra-ultra-reliable GM-style electronic ignition.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67040/overview/make/dodge

I strongly suggest this conversion instead of the first option. It is connected with only two wires and removes the worst Achilles heel of that vehicle for under 300 dollars in parts and an hours labor.

You asked about finding mechanics who could fix the van. This "HEI" system is on every GM vehicle from the mid 70's all the way past 2005 in some trucks.
It is known to be one of the most trouble-free units ever made for distributor style ignition.
Worth every penny it costs in piece of mind!
Strong spark all the time. Works in the rain. Works in puddles...works when a mean Wiccan puts a nasty spell on you (and then shocks them as punishment ;) )
In the incredibly unlikely event that you DO have an issue, the parts for it are available in every parts store in every state.
Should a mechanic tell you this simple conversion is not a good idea...find another mechanic.

Make sure you are happy with the way the front end feels on that Dodge going down the road.
Not saying they are unsafe, but they steer a bit "funny" with a little wear.
In contrast, the kingpins can be falling out of the Ford twin I beam setups and they still track straight down the road without "the drifts."
Test drive it for 30 minutes @ highway speed. Hit some bumps...while the brakes are applied.
If you find yourself saying "I wonder what the heck JD was talking about?" then your front end is in decent shape ;)

Also, make 100% certain there is no body rot under that Dodge. They were unit-body construction if I remember correctly.
Any holes in the floor or body? Make certain it goes on a lift and gets looked over really good. Your bodywork IS your frame.

A Ford is different. It has a full frame. You can drive down the road with "Fred Flintstone" holes all over the floor. Not in danger of catastrophic failure.
The Dodge needs to be pretty solid to be safe.
If it's loaded with fiberglass/body filler ("Bondo") it is especially suspect.
Pressured into an instant "buy it right now without a thorough mechanic check-out or don't?" Walk away.
A few holes just the size of a half dollar in the wrong places and the thing is scrap metal.
(It can cost more to have a welder repair it than it's worth.)
With that said, this is mainly an issue with Northern vehicles that lived in salted road areas...or one that was allowed to leak a long time.
The carpeting gets wet, holds the water in...and rots the floors out.

This may sound negative, but it really is not.
Dodge made a kick-ass van back in the day.
The 360 is an EXCELLENT engine.
The 727 "torqueflyte" transmission is also excellent.

Having all the fluids done (Including the rear end) is a good idea...as are the belts, hoses...and check the heater box before you use it.
Bees and vermin tend to set up condo's inside. If you turn on the fan, you drive insects or mouse giblets (think of your heater fan as a "LA-MACHINE") into your defrosters...where they can show you love with their "bouquet" for many moons.

Best of luck.

PS...(From Mrs G)===
"as a female I can only do fluid checks..." Horse excrement.
The 50's are behind us.
A woman can do anything a guy can.
Youtube can teach you how to repair many things yourself.
That is a great vehicle to learn the basics on. Don't limit yourself. ;) :)
 
you shouldn't have a problem. the older ones are just like the newer ones only much simpler, for the most part. highdesertranger
 
Welp,if you buy an older late 1970's RV/van and your not a mechanic, Your going to learn how to be one in quick order. These older Dodge are cantankerous at best, and I always recomend to ANYONE who is not entirely mechanically minded to go to their local community college and take a basic auto repair class, or two to get the fundamentals down.

These older units are not bad machines, but its a very tactile experience where you must know what various vibrations you may feel through your butt as you sit in the drivers seat means.. Not to mention what the noises you hear are...
 
A lot of time those ballast resistors on the Mopars will intermittently pass electricity due to heat stress/cracks. That is usually the problem on old Mopar ignitions that use those.
 
If you buy a class c get used to $$$$ repairs. I owned one for a few months and gave up on the many repairs it required. I went with a simple travel trailer and no more expensive repairs. My truck requires maintenance and service, but not things going wrong every time I drive it.
 
Weight said:
There may be more mechanics that can fix a pre-computer vehicle than you suspect. Especially in sw usa. I have a 1987 and it's getting hard to find parts except from China.

Hello, 

Partsgeek.com is a website a local salvage yard recommended, and there is one specific to mopar as sell, not sure where parts come from but I know they would have to be ordered which would delay repair time.  

Just purchased 1986 Mini Class C "Honey" under 22'.  Will pick up hopefully next week.

Thank you
 
Moderator Note: Post contained nothing but quotes of OP and lengthy reply. No need to quote yourself and lengthy posts should be edited to contain only the exact part you need to refer to. - Nomadventurer
 
Thank you everyone, I passed on the 1978 Transvan, has been sitting for 4 years, only one owner, the nephew is selling, it started old gas in it, blew power steering hose and needs brakes---not sure if all or just drums--- but the trip is 7.5 hr one way to look at it and he couldn't give me much more info unless I made the trip, it appears to be a great unit and well cared for, however I could not stand up as it is 5' once u step up past kitchen and I have a fused back so being veritical is key. This is craigslist link to one I passed on (https://centralmich.craigslist.org/rvs/d/transvan-camper-1978/6529145911.html)

I did purchase the Ford Econoline w 351, van cab, dually truck chassis ran and shifted great, of course it had a roof leak at one time and needs some repair inside but no mold. It rode great fired right up and a little tlc it will be my home. I inspected for 2.5 hours following a list from a forum, the owner held the ladder for me to inspect roof. I am either the 2nd-4th owner it has all records etc. New tires on front, no rot and dually's are in very good shape.

I am excited to pick up in the next week or two and have a summer position as a host at a small RV park w 18 spots but it is also a marina w 30 slips, so I will get my feet wet this summer close to home and work out bugs and repairs and head out in October to the West.
 
if I were considering buying an older vehicle and I wasnt a mechanic it would be a chevrolet with smallblock V8

simply because the parts (every part) is readily available anywhere and there are more mechanics with prior experience working on them than probably anything else.

I am a mechanic myself and I would still get a chevy (I have two GMCs) simply because of the part availability. Im not a died in the wool chevy guy either. Ive had them all and like most of them but GMs just make more sense.

I know there is alot of talk about reliability but mine certainly have been by far the most reliable older vehicles. one with +340,000 miles on the original engine, differential, and air conditioning system and its an '87!

my old Ford was also 100% reliable but I didnt put as many test miles on it and I know the parts are not always readily available since Ford didnt interchange them between models nearly as much as GM.


something to consider IMO YMMV
 
You have got to be kidding me...  I'm headed down to take a look at this exact van this weekend!  I'm a traveling henna artist and need a home for work - five hours one way, I sure hope it's worth it because I plan on buying it unless there's a huge structural problem.  We're hoping to get the brakes and power steering lines squared away this weekend, it needs a new starter soon too.  My main concern is the 3/4 tank of gas that's sitting in it - a portion of it has been in there for four years, plus the new gas he added...  would anyone be willing to give me some pointers on best practices for this situation?

So excited to find this forum, I've already learned a lot in my day of lurking...
 
four years is a awful long time for gas nowadays. if it where me I would siphon it out and put fresh gas in it. whatever you try to do put a generous amount of Seafoam in the first tank. then I would run the recommended amount per gallon for the next few tanks. highdesertranger
 
If you don't siphon the gas, I'd throw in a few ounces of Star Tron or Marine Stabil.

Anecdotally, I've had good luck with old gas in cars. Motorcycles and boats are another story, unfortunately. Diesel seems to deteriorate more than gas. I've heard a ton of horror stories about the ethanol in gas but I've found it to usually not be an issue for me.

My understanding is that the old ethanolized gas will usually clog fuel lines or carb passages. I've seen the nasty residue inside small motorcycle carbs. But if the lines are clear enough to start the vehicle, I'd expect it to run on the old gas. Again, just from my limited experience.

Wishing you luck!
 
Thank you both! I had planned to siphon out everything that's in there, fill 'er up, and was hoping that there might be an additive I could use for a bit - looks like I was on the right track! I'll grab something, thanks!

Also, it's good to hear that anecdotal evidence, makes me less worried that it was started (and allowed to run for a couple minutes).
 
if the engine has not been spun over in four years, I would remove the spark plugs and use a turkey baster to squirt some light oil in each hole, lots of it! marvel mystery oil is pretty light, you could use that.

I actually take the distributors apart and spin up the oil pressure there by a drill with a home made attachment before trying to start something that has been sitting longer than a year but it might be hard to do on that one.

it might save the rings if there is any slight rust from condensation in the bores.

"starter should be replaced" can be good or bad news. bad because maybe it dont spin over with the starter because the engine is locked, good because maybe nobody has turned over a dry engine and gives you a chance to pre oil it like I mention. (this could save you a complete engine rebuild)

so after you oil it down and let it sit for as long as you can, then try to turn the crankshaft with a wrench first before trying to start it with the starter. then you can feel how tight it is. if it moves just a tad, turn it the other way, then back and forth going a litle more each way each time.

once it feels smooth then use the starter with the spark plugs still removed so it can blow out all that oil you put in it.

you can skip all that but on one sitting for four years, I wouldnt and if you do, go ahead and plan on a rebuild. you may get lucky but odds are not good iMO.

but after you have spun the oil out (do it with the throttle fully open and the coil wire off) put all the spark plugs back in, and it might start up with some smoke at first but if your lucky the smoke will go away.

if you plan to drive any distance with it, have spare belts, hoses, fuel filters (they will clog more than once on the way home) and anything else you can think of.

if you cant do all that, you really dont need to buy that rig IMO

good luck eitherway!
 
Never have been a big fan of any attached living unit to a van. Got a problem? You gotta tow the whole thing (usually expensive) truck and trailer you have options. It is good to have options when your out in the middle of nowhere.
 
Bummed, because of the winter storm we are having here in the UP, I've had to push back visiting the van until next weekend.

The good news is, we are planning to tow to a mechanic in our home town (seller is paying for the tow) we know so there won't be any driving or further engine running.  Lots of tricky logistics for us during this time, we are also in the middle of our last military move...

Thanks for the detailed tips, safarivan!  Current owner did start it and let it run for a while...  I hope he didn't ruin anything!  :(  He said he started it multiple times, but that it "ticked" a couple of those times...  which makes me think it's an ignition problem but I haven't heard it for myself.  Should I still follow your recommended steps, knowing that it has already been fired up a few times?

As far as the brakes are concerned, he has a provisioning valve that he thinks his uncle planned to install but never got to...  I hope that gets her road worthy, but I expect to need to replace basically everything - and I'm okay with that.

Thanks, wagoneer - I appreciate that perspective but have strict size limitations because festivals only allow a certain size/type of vehicle to be parked and camped in in the vendor areas.  Trailers are not allowed.  This is a purchase specifically for working at art shows and music festivals, so I have to follow their rules.  Also, I've been pining for a Transvan for years - and I'm looking forward to it as a project with my husband and kids...  the rebuild/maintenance is a huge part of the allure for me, personally.  <3
 
taidehenna said:
Thanks for the detailed tips, safarivan!  Current owner did start it and let it run for a while...  I hope he didn't ruin anything!  :(  He said he started it multiple times, but that it "ticked" a couple of those times...  which makes me think it's an ignition problem but I haven't heard it for myself.  Should I still follow your recommended steps, knowing that it has already been fired up a few times?

if the engine has been spun over more recently than a year then pre oiling it isnt critical.

the tick could be lifters but usually they get better on their own after some usage. I would change the oil to 10-30 for a couple of hundred miles then go back to whatever the manufacturer recommends on it but I would not use synthetic oils in one that old.

some people use seafoam treatment and swear by it to quiet down the ticking but I havnt used it.

the TransVans are really cool looking, glad to see youre planning on restoring it.
 
Top