OK Now to plan C Ford Cutaway van

[JD GUMBEE]

Wow.
If mine looked that good, I would not waste money on new ones.
Just put them back in and plan on changing them at 800,000 or so.

 

[highdesertranger]

with so little wear why are you changing the pistons and rings? didn't you say you still had the cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls? what type of rings are you going with? are you boring it? what type of piston? highdesertranger

 

[Jim_Rockford]

Main reason I put pistons and rings in it was I figured they were worn out with 372000 miles and when I was turning it over by hand after I had it out it didn't really seem like it had a lot of compression but turns out I think the majority of that was from the valves but I figured while I had it out I would be a fool not to rering it and put new pistons in I just went with standard bore enginetech Pistons and rings from RockAuto short block is assembled, waiting on my valve seals and I have to assemble one head before I take the other one apart I don't want to have all Bunch whole bunch of stuff laying on the workbench.

 

[highdesertranger]

all this is not adding up. so your saying the pistons and rings were worn out but the bearings appear near new and you didn't bore it?

how much of a ridge did it have? if the pistons and ring were worn out and it had 350k+ I would expect a rather big ridge I would at least hope you reamed the ridge.

I take it those are factory cast pistons?

what type of rings(Material) did you use?

it appears the 2 cylinders at either end of that head were having issues. did you do a compression check? what was the compression of that bank?

highdesertranger

 

[bullfrog]

He stated a few posts back no cylinder taper and cross hatching present with stock pistons but I'm seeing evidence of oil on exhaust valves on the outside cylinders maybe? I've seen engines with stuck or weak rings that never seat in, actually pretty common with the old "chrome" rings if cross hatching was too light but it would make sense if the cross hatching is still there then there wouldn't be any lip. Hard to believe that many miles without the rings seating in but with today's synthetic oils and no proper break in, maybe?

 

[highdesertranger]

that would truly be amazing. highdesertranger

 

[Doubleone]

I don't see tremendous oil on those outside cylinders so much as a fluffy black, so I'm thinking maybe a fuel mix or incomplete combustion.  Deposits on the underside tulip of the valves,  baked carbon under that surface soot, and carbon on piston tops would tell more of the story for those cylinders.  An even better way to spot oil is to read the deposits on the old spark plugs.  I suspect Jim was probably idling the engine a lot more than driving it around, so that makes me think vacuum leaks, fouled injector nozzles, or perhaps simply the engine wasn't fully warmed up when it was shut down.  

My injectors were super crusty at 50k (likely from sitting so much and cheap gas from south of the border).  I had my injectors ultrasonically cleaned and flow match checked.   It made a noticeable difference in torque and even gained a about 1-1/2 mpg on my V10.  I'm thinking Jim's got a couple of crusty injectors with funky spray patterns and this would tend to reveal at more at idle as a soft misfire in those two holes.  The computer trim would tend to compensate more at speed.  It's a little pricey, but this is where I sent mine and he had decent turn-around time.  http://www.mrinjector.us/

Hey Jim, a couple things I'll pass along about that engine family.  Use only a genuine Motorcraft thermostat (check with Ford for current recommended p/n).  The design uses a recirculation/bypass to quickly warm the engine.  Aftermarket thermostats just don't work right because the dimensions are off.  Also be sure to use the severe-duty thermostatic fan clutch; standard van clutches are super whimpy and won't pull enough air but still bolt up to the fan.  This is the one I used, check if it applies to your V8 too.  https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C3BB3A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1  Comparing the two you would see an obvious size difference.  Check the back of the serpentine tensioner for rust at the clock spring and replace if any red powder is evident.  

Thanks for keeping us updated on the progress, great pics too!

 

[Jim_Rockford]

T Stat was already ordered, I didn't drive it but a couple of miles after I got it running and that was after swapping injectors. Because it ran so poor after I got it running after it sat up for over 6 years, found the cause of the poor running to be ignition related I got it running like a champ just before I pulled the engine . It had been running with bad exhaust leaks in the no 4 and 8 cylinders for a long time and that was the main reason for the engine removal. I'll update some more tommorow with the transmission updates engine is assembled waiting on Me to get done with the transmission.

 

[Jim_Rockford]

Well here the transmission pics, the rear parking gear to case bearing was fubared, and the coast clutches where stripped out and that wore a groove in the coast clutch hub. Other than that the trans was on good shape. Some of the clutches still had the printing on them.

Engine is done just waiting for me to finish the transmission.

 

[Jim_Rockford]

Well the rotating assy is back togeather  just gotta get some brake clean this weekend and go though the valve body and put it back in and get a tailshaft seal. Not long now.

 

[Jim_Rockford]

Well No one cares I will stop posting updates.

 

[B and C]

Please don't stop updating. I can't be the only one following but not commenting.

 

[bullfrog]

It would be nice to see it done and hear how it all works out. Did you keep track of what it cost?

 

[Cammalu]

I’m watching and following just don’t have anything to say because I don’t know a thing about mechanics. Maybe by following I might glean a bit of info. I think you should still post your efforts.

 

[Doubleone]

Here with you for the long hall... wanting to see what you do with the house part after you get the all the mechanicals in order.

 

[BinDerSmokDat]

Well No one cares I will stop posting updates.

I don't think it's the fact that nobody cares.
I think when you start taking engines apart and getting that detailed, it's beyond the technical level of most people on this forum and they can't meaningfully contribute.
When you start posting about building out that rear box and adding appliances/bunk, people will chime in.

 

[rokguy]

Well No one cares I will stop posting updates.

Keep posting, I'm watching this thread too, from Australia, I can not comment on these engines as we never had them here. love the box truck.

 

[Jim_Rockford]

Well it's all back together and runs and drives, got some odds and ends to tidy up. Replacing the rear shocks and installing new sway bar bushings up front and I'll be ready to start on the inside.    

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Un6MoJjuwLJu32xs6

 

[Doubleone]

....isssss'about time!  Dang man!  Thought you fell of the edge of the planet or something... LOL!    Keep them pic's comin'  Definitely want to see what you can do with the house.

 

[Jim_Rockford]

Here is a video I did about resealing the A/C compressor in my explorer and the van. Both used the common fs-10 compressors. My explorer has been cooling now for over a month and my van has held a vacuum for about as long I just haven't charged it yet. Saved myself just under 200 bucks by not buying a new compressor for each.