Non tourist locations between Yellowstone and GNP

[Seraphim]

My sister and her husband like to travel in a 32 Class A. They're getting up there in years, and are less comfortable about traveling alone. We've travelled with them more often lately. So when they told us about plans to go to Yellowstone and Glacier National Park,  mentioning this might be their last trip, I knew what they were hoping for. My wife just smiled at me and nodded, so I walked into it with eyes wide open. "Would you like some company?"

So, mid July we're leaving southern Ohio for Yellowstone, then meander through Idaho up to Glacier. Middle of the summer and tourist season *groan*.

We'd rather not stay in the touristy resort areas, out of the way parks and NF land is good. DW and I don't need hookups of any sort, and they can boondocks bit as well - genny assisted - so if anyone has any recommendations they would be greatly appreciate. Any lesser known interesting sights and areas, as well.  We don't make itineraries or reservations, and I know that might be problematic in high traffic areas.

Being pesssimistic by nature, I'm expecting crowds, tourist traps and parking lot style campgrounds with inconsiderate neighbors. So PLEASE HELP!

I know y'all will understand lol. Thanks in advance.

 

[WriterMs]

I lived in MT for the 90s and handled PR for state tourism for a few of those years. So I know a lot but some may be outdated. To me, all of western MT is worth seeing and I have my faves, but a lot depends on what sorts of things you like to see: restored ghost towns, a working ranch that is a national park, fishing places, rockhounding, history museums?

You must be planning to come out of Yellowstone at West Yellowstone if you are going to meander though Idaho? The one recommendation I have is that when you go back north into MT you avoid the Gallatin Valley. The little cities at the ends of the valley are more "boutique" and expensive with many fewer options for boondocking.

Butte has a lot of mining history and the huge (an understatement) open pit mine more than a mile wide -- and there are some nice free places to camp around there. My favorite valley going toward Glacier is the Flint Creek (Phiipsburg) and there are free places along there, too.

I found a free BLM tiny campground north of Gardiner (north entrance to Yellowstone) but I'm not sure how a Class A would handled the short but rocky road in.

If you give me more of an idea of what things you like to see along the way or if you know which route you want to take, I can be more specific.

 

[Seraphim]

Well - a gold mine of information!

Yes, we plan on hitting Yellowstone from the east, then exiting from the west. Probably hit Rushmore on the way in; never been, so might as well see it once.

Mostly we like to walk, take photos, canoe - see what there is to see outside.  Abandoned ghost towns would be interesting, but restored ones as well.  We enjoy seeing wildlife. My sister and her husband are into historical western and museums, and we'll cater to them a lot. Firearms museums they'd like as well. They still walk, just not longer distances.  Good basic, unique restaurants occasionally. - not fancy - which offer foods unique to the area.

Spent a week at the Shively Ranch in the late 90s, bringing in the cattle - who basically knew their way - and enjoying the magnificent scenery from horseback. We love the area, and now we're retired have more time to get out there.

Certainly appreciate the advice.

 

[Seraphim]

Just for fun:

 

[WriterMs]

My former computer died last week, so I do not have access to all my notes from last year (tho I hope to recover them from the hard drive within the week). However, I pulled out some of my hard copy stuff.

Let me say that MT has a very nice state tourism website: visitmt.com

But you can also call or write and ask them if they can expedite a visitor kit to you (if you'd have time to receive it). What you want is the "Accommodations Directory." In the back of that, past all the hotel and private campground listing, is a section called "Public Campgrounds." This is organized by the nearest town. I did a lot of cross-checking using the computer and the Forest Service sites' details for each campground. Several actual campgrounds are FREE -- they are no longer maintained for trash pickup and such but the parking spaces, fire rings and tables are still there. Many more are only $5 or similar.

The places not in the book, of course, are the dispersed camping places. The Forests nearest the most popular spots have very limited dispersed camping as the roads are sometimes prohibited for camping.

But, for example, at Homestake Pass outside Butte (a high elevation pass as are many in MT), there are several GREAT free dispersed sites on the gravel road leading to the Delmoe Lake campground (which is not free). Around the charming little Victorian town of Philipsburg, there are many free campgrounds (but watch as some are several miles of dirt road to get to). My fave in that area is just at the bottom of a very steep road coming from Anaconda down to the Flint Creek valley. It is called Flint Creek Campground and the sites are right along the river. Only a few, I think, would accommodate a 32-footer but a smaller vehicle can go in first and check it out.

I would also recommend you look at any reservoirs near the places you'll travel. Clark Canyon Reservoir as you come into MT on I-15 has several very nice campgrounds around it and they are all free. (NO shade) Ruby Reservoir has free dispersed places to pull off all around its eastern side and you can sift through the gravel and dirt and find actual rubies and garnets. Hungry Horse Reservoir just outside of West Glacier (actually go there via Columbia) has several campgrounds and some are listed as "light use." I'm not sure on what fees are connected with those but, again, the website for those should give you that info.

Virginia City is a dressed up but authentic old ghost town resurrected and a few miles away is Nevada City with much less restoration. Both are right on a very scenic paved highway. Grant-Kohrs Ranch is the working ranch that is a national park. You can wander around to the blacksmith shop demonstrations (used to be a woman smithy but don't know now), through the ranch house, out to the chuckwagon, etc.

I see I am rambling and this could go on with examples tomake this the size of a novel. LOL. Can you tell MT is my favorite state? Again, feel free to send me a private message with questions if you begin to see a route you may like.
Carla

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Craters of the Moon National Monument is a little to the south and west of  Yellowstone in Idaho.  It's on my Must-See list, but may not be your cup of tea.  Check it out on the web.

Becky at Interstellar Orchard is working at Yellowstone this summer and blogging about her experiences there.  In fact, she just mentioned that Bob stopped to visit with her on his current ramblings.

Regards
John

 

[Seraphim]

Thank you both - some fantastic information.

I'm trying to get my sister to delay the trip until August figuring things might not be as hot - we prefer cooler weather - and possibly fewer tourists as school year stars up in September. Ten days out, ten days back, and a month or so there to ramble around - we really have no time restrictions.

 

[Seraphim]

Carla

Have you considered a Montana travelogue? Not sure of income possibilities from such, but with your writing skill it would be a good one.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

If you can, I'd postpone until September.  The pests are gone (both bugs and most tourists).  I have gone west for September - October every year.  The weather is settled, warm days, cool nights.  Higher elevations are just starting color.

I'll leave Montana to WriterMS.  In Idaho, IMO you need to go southwest from Yellowstone to get to the good stuff.  Taking US 20 SW to Craters of the Moon NM is worth the trip.  Then taking ID 75 up through Sun Valley and meeting up with US 93 heading to Missoula and on up to West Glacier.  Lots of boondocking opportunities so bring your Benchmark or Delorme.  Some FS campgrounds are closed after Sept 15, others have the fees waived, in most after labor day, I have had the place to myself.  I would not recommend ID 28 up the east side of the Lemhi mountains.  Of all the places I have been, that was the most depressing drive.  Lots of good dayhiking.  If you are interested, I can research my notes and make some recommendations.

 -- Spiff

 

[WriterMs]

Carla

Have you considered a Montana travelogue? Not sure of income possibilities from such, but with your writing skill it would be a good one.

Thanks so much for the vote of confidence! After a long career of writing non-fiction marketing communications, I'm enjoying writing fiction now.

Here is my advice on the timing of your trip. If you include the month of October, remember you are far north as well as overall high elevation. Do all of Montana's high elevation travel by the first part of the month. The nights will get quite cold and a chance of snow gets much more likely. Consider going places like Glacier NP early in your trip and then work your way back to the south or the "banana belt" valleys (Montanans say that phrase with a bit of a wink).

And, check the seasonal schedules of things you want to see. For example, the visitor center at the top of Glacier's Going-to-the-Sun Road closes about September 21 -- that's because snow is likely to close the road entirely near that date. Here is a link to the Park's page:

http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/hours.htm

Other shops and services around the park begin to close down in late September and early October, too, because visitor numbers drop off dramatically. Ironically, that is what you are looking for - and it IS much nicer to see the scenic areas without the crowds. Just double check the schedules for sites you find on the state tourism website for their seasonal schedule. And, early season snows in Montana are, in general, not terrible. Snow is light and fluffy and main roads are cleared quickly.

Weather warnings aside, there is one phenomenon that I find awesome early to mid-October in the northwestern part of Montana: the turning of the larch (tamarack) trees. I believe these are the only needled (pine) trees that are deciduous -- they turn a bright yellow (like aspen) and then golden before the needles fall. And on the west side of Glacier, there are some mountainsides full of them. It is spectacular to see. There are many of these trees also in the Seeley-Swan valley (between Seeley Lake and Bigfork), which is a very scenic drive in itself. There is even the Tamaracks Resort -- It has RV sites and they have a website with details.

Dang, I'd be in Montana right now if the family situation permitted! Can you tell? LOL

But, the big point is to check for closings in late Sept/early Oct. in higher elevations and be prepared for some cold nights.
Carla

 

[Patrick46]

I'm with Spiff...
Sun Valley is a groovy place (albeit expensive)...but I'd also look into U.S. Route 12 going up and over Lolo Pass.
It's windy and steep, so it's not for the faint of heart when behind the wheel...but it's a gorgeous drive, and I never miss it!

I also agree that I'd go in September, as the kids are all back in school, so the crowds are gone, and the weather will be cooler.
July and August are gonna be HOT!!!...no two ways around it.

 

[akrvbob]

You guys must go to different mountains than I go to. Glacier NP will be cool in the last 2 weeks of August and could snow anytime in September. Now southern Idaho high desert, and eastern Montana high plains will still be hot, but who wants to go there anyway? They have a couple neat things so you wait to as late in the trip as you can to see them and go to the mountains as soon as possible.
Bob

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

You guys must go to different mountains than I go to. Glacier NP will be cool in the last 2 weeks of August and could snow anytime in September. 

Higher elevations in Glacier will be cool ( I've been snowed on in July a number of times around Logan Pass) but Lake McDonald and Many Glacier can be hot in August.  Yellowstone will be hot in July and August, lower elevations in Idaho and Montana will be hot too.

Here are a couple of threads on WTW for Glacier and Yellowstone:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/10712-glacier-np/#entry121922
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/10620-yellowstone-campgrounds-wildlife-viewing/#entry121088

Also, if you plan on doing Glacier first (excellent suggestions WriterMs!), you might want to consider heading south from Yellowstone into Teton NP and on around Bridger-Teton NF and Shoshone NF.

 -- Spiff

 

[Seraphim]

Spiff

Did I ever tell you I'm jealous of your user name?

I don't want to put you to too much trouble - or Carla, either, for that matter, but if you do have some specific recommendations, they'd be appreciated. Since we're heading out that far (for us), there's no reason to hurry back to Ohio.

We're better equipped for cold than we are for heat. Heat and humidity affect DWs skin allergies. The unit has AC, but requires shore power. It also requires us to be inside - not why we travel. Propane handles the heating concerns.

Carla

It would be easy enough for us to reverse our route and head north first. We were at Glacier in late June 2013, and we went up from warm Rising Sun campground, and 15 minutes later took photos of DW with so drifts over her head. Loved it! Hosted one of the local black bears in our campsite for a bit, as well.

We'll sit down this weekend with a map to locate the attractions the three of you have mentioned, and check out the tourism websites. It'll be easier now that we have some intermediate destinations in mind, and some idea of areas we may not be interested in as well.

Thanks again, all, for taking the to advise. It's a great help.

Jerry

 

[Seraphim]

Patrick and Bob

Just saw your posts - wasn't ignoring you lol. They're appreciated.

Windy and steep are fine. Narrow has gotten me anxious a couple of times, especially on a one lane road, on a mountainside, with two way traffic. I'm NOT backing that rig up.

 

[Seraphim]

Spiff

The Tetons were on our list..

We've been to the Wind River Valley - considered retirement land there about 20 years ago for RV parking - but never got as far werst as Jackson Hole or Yellowstone.

Wish I bought that land, though...

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

I don't want to put you to too much trouble - or Carla, either, for that matter, but if you do have some specific recommendations, they'd be appreciated.  Since we're heading out that far (for us), there's no reason to hurry back to Ohio.

Hey Jerry, it will be fun to go back through my notes; kind of like taking the trip(s) all over again   

My co-workers used to call me a space cadet (I am the prototypical absent minded professor), so being a Calvin & Hobbs fan, 'Spaceman Spiff' fits me well.

 -- Spiff

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

You did say you had a month or so to wander around that general area, right?  Are either you or your BIL really into fast cars?  August, September, and October is when various speed trials are held on the Bonneville Salt Flats, which is in northern Utah, and thus kinda-sorta in the same general area.  Ever seen Anthony Hopkins in THE WORLDS FASTEST INDIAN?

Regards
John

 

[Canine]

Man,thereare so many free campsites in Mt.you could spend a couple of years and not hit them all.If I started naming all the beautiful places,I would still be naming at midnite.Get on a free campground site on the web and you should find plenty of free sites.If you are up there in Sept. you can catch the testicle festiville at Rock Creek.You'll have a ball.Hope you have agreat trip.

 

[Canine]

OP That was a great movie.