Need some opinions on buying a Dodge Class B

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I have a 1989 Dodge high top with the 360 engine.   Great running vans, but really bad mileage, 11-13 mpg normally.   The transmission is the bullet proof 727 Torqueflight.   To remove the engine it must drop out the bottom along with the trans and sub frame.   Big job for sure.

I keep my Dodge van as a backup to my Grumman Olson step van, which gets 16-18 mpg, even though it dwarfs the Dodge in size and weight.   If my 360 engine ever needs replacing, I'm putting a 318 engine in it for better mileage.

I'd pass on this one, there is a better deal for you waiting to be found.
 
M3W2 said:
Thanks for all the responses. I can do most of the repairs, I work on my own cars, but when it comes to the engine I don't feel very confident tearing it apart and would have to take it somewhere. Maybe I should keep looking or try to find a mechanic to ask about the cost of engine work. Because it's an RV technically do they usually charge more than if it were just a van? I'd consider non class b high tops too but even those are really hard to find around me. Does anyone have suggestions on places to search for them? Right now I've been using facebook marketplace but their search functions are really bad. Craigslist is basically empty anytime I look.

Not sure if it helps any but last year I had my 360 (2001 5.9 with 311k on it) rebuilt locally by a machine shop, $2400 with after $800 core for the long block. That was rebuilt heads, all gaskets\seals, rebuilt rods, .030 overbore, new cam\lifters\timing chain, water pump, new exhaust manifolds (one had a welded up crack so I had them replace them at the same time), mounts, etc. This included install (pick up, probably going to be a bit more for a van). If you can do the other work - chassis\suspension\brakes - then you are just pretty much paying parts and tools. Get an in\lb wrench so you can do band adjustments on the trans.
 
If it "sometimes" runs on 7 cylinders. it's not a bad camshaft. Those are either good or bad. It could still be valve related, like a bad lifter or a sticking valve would be the culprit, not the camshaft. Diagnosis needs to start with compression and cylinder leakdown tests I think.
 
If it could be had for $4k and I was a lot closer (and I had a spare $4k....haha), I would take a chance on it.
 
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