Need A Shade Tre Mechanic's Temp Fix

[ramblingvanman]

Hello all. I have been running around the south east the last few weeks. My water pump developed a leak. I am about 350 miles from anywhere I know I can work on the van without worry of getting towed. The new pump itself is cheap. What I need is a temp fix to get me 1 day's drive to either Norfolk Va or Orlando FL. The pump has a leak on it's back side that sprays water directly on top of the engine. Creates quite a steam cloud. If it weren't for that, I would just load up with 20 1 gallon water jugs and run for one place or the other. I doubt JB weld would hold even if I could get the surface clean enough. It is a chevy 350 motor with the simple 4 bolt pump. Easy job, couple hours with only hand tools at most. I just don't need Johnny Law rolling up on me in the middle of the change over. Any ideas?

 

[DannyB1954]

I would change the pump. If LE sees the new pump going in and you did not make a mess of your location, I doubt that they would tow you. That being said,

Medium ground pepper. Try a couple of tablespoons. the pepper is small enough to go through where it needs to, but will jam up in the hole as it tries to come out. Flushing the system should get all the pepper out once the pump is changed. Also keep the radiator cap loose. Pressure will not develop in the cooling system. But keep an eye on the temp gauge. Once the water gets over 212 it will boil off without pressure on it.

 

[Gary68]

i would just start asking near by commercial,garage,farm or anyplace that has little shade if i could change my water pump here

humans can be quite generous most of the time

 

[TMG51]

I'd just change the pump at an auto parts store parking lot, or state park n ride, or most anywhere else. No one's going to disparage a broken down traveler doing what he can... As long as you're not making a mess.

But, pepper and extra clamps may get you somewhere.

 

[highdesertranger]

I vote change the pump. you can find a place. do not mickey mouse it. have you tried to leave the radiator cap loose so it can't build pressure? highdesertranger

 

[poncho62]

You sure its not just a hose leaking?....Seems strange that the pump would develop a leak like that.

 

[ramblingvanman]

No, I didn't try leaving the cap loose. Good idea. The hazard of being a professional tech is that I don't think of stuff like that. I asked at the parts store where I bought the pump. They said they don't allow it. I also puled into a rest area, but a trooper(South Carolina) told me to move along or he would call a tow truck. I think I will try the loose cap and see if I can find some place that might let me do it. I already lost all the anti-freeze, so it is just water in the system right now. Yes, I do have new coolant to add after doing the repair.

 

[ramblingvanman]

You sure its not just a hose leaking?....Seems strange that the pump would develop a leak like that.

That isn't a chevy 350 motor there. I am 100% sure it is leaking from the back of the pump. There is a little plate on the back. My first thought was that one of the screws holding the little plate had come loose, but they are tight. There must be a pin hole in the plate itself. The van has 250k miles, and TBH, the pump seems factory original. The belt and hoses are fine.

 

[ccbreder]

Go to a different parts store. I see people repairing things in the parking lots many times. Or go to wall-mart parking. You aren't going to be more than 1/2 a day.

 

[AngryVanMan]

Rusting out a stamped back plate is common, especially if the coolant wasn't kept up on and the anti-corrosion additives are exhausted, or if it's from "salt country."

 

[poncho62]

I guess the metal plate could have rusted through.....I have never seen one do that though. 

 

[highdesertranger]

my guess is it's coming out of the weep hole. common on a high mileage pump. highdesertranger

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I'm with HDR.  With enough wear, the bearing allows the shaft to wobble.  When that happens, the shaft tears the seal, and fluid starts coming out of the weep hole, which is there for that specific purpose, I think.  Since the shaft is moving, there are no temp fixes that actually hold. it's just going to keep on leaking.

 

[ramblingvanman]

It is not coming out the weep hole. I wish it was. If that was the issue, I would do the 20 gallons of water and run for Norfolk since I am marginally closer to there at this point. It is definitely coming from high at the rear of the pump. A rusted pin hole in the back plate is my guess. I am going to leave the cap loose and try a quick run tonight. Even if I have to stop every couple hours and take a nap while it cools off, I can still be in Norfolk in 12-13 hours. I have lot's of friends there where I can do the job without hassle.

 

[AngryVanMan]

If it's the back plate, you can use the same fix we use on rusted out oil pans in the salt belt, USC Duraglas Fiberglass Reinforced Filler. Stuff is almost indestructible, but the surface has to be clean/dry, we use some scotchbrite pads and CRC Brake Kleen to get it to stick to once-oily surfaces. It proved safer than some redneck trying to weld an oil pan full of motor oil! Never tried it on a water pump though, could work

 

[USACelt]

I will guess with the description you gave it is a rusted out back plate, I have been around engines for some time now and never seen one rust out though.Freeze plugs go first....but entirely possible, Have you ran a good mix of anti-freeze and did the original owner of the engine do the same? anti-freeze does more than keep things from freezin
rust protection is a big one that it does also. I would stop and get it fixed asap before dumping water in it, you are just compounding the problems pouring water in it day after day.

 

[ramblingvanman]

I will guess with the description you gave it is a rusted out back plate, I have been around engines for some time now and never seen one rust out though.Freeze plugs go first....but entirely possible, Have you ran a good mix of anti-freeze and did the original owner of the engine do the same? anti-freeze does more than keep things from freezin
rust protection is a big one that it does also. I would stop and get it fixed asap before dumping water in it, you are just compounding the problems pouring water in it day after day.

The original owner did not run a good mix, at least not when I got it. I did replace all fluids when I bought it though.

 

[cyndi]

Shoot! Last I knew if you buy the parts at Auto Zone they will loan the tools so you can repair in their parking lot. O'Reilly's, too! Maybe that's a zoning thing, though

 

[eDJ_]

OK,  it's spraying coolant so it sounds like the cooling system is pressurized, so you need to open the cap up
to where it isn't sealing the cooling system and putting it under pressure when the engine gets hot.

Next get some Perma Gum.  All kinds of places sell it from $30 a box at Lowe's to $10 for a small role of
"perma tape".   Same stuff.     Or find a HVAC shop and see if they will sell you a golf ball sized chunk of it for
$5 bucks.   Just be resourceful.  

Let your engine cool over night and preferably the leaking spot dry real well.  Then putty over the weep hole or where ever it's leaking.   It may not completely stop the leak but it will slow it down remarkably with the
radiator cap removed.

While the engine is cold top it off with water after get set to drive back home.  Have some containers full of
water to add water with.  Keep an eye on your temperature gauge.  Check the gum plug to see it is in place and not leaking when you add water.    Yes it is going to steam some but there will be little or no pressure on the cooling system so you should be able to limp home on this fix. 

I don't know if your engine has an air bleeder screw located near the thermostat or not.  You'll have to look for that and once the engine is started and filled with water (if it has one) use the proper wrench to bleed the air out so the temperature gauge will read accurately.  

You may want to drive in the cool of the evening to avoid traffic.
I'd start out around 11pm.

Yeah, I been doin this awhile

 

[ArtW]

RE fixing it in the AP's parking lot
No AP 'allows' vehicle repair in the parking lot, there are signs saying so outside
However, they aren't going to chase you off the lot if you do, the signs are their to cover their butt if (when) some chucklehead drops a car on himself or leaves a torn apart car for a few days and they want it gone
they won't get mad at you for doing it, they just don't want to pay tour medical if you're a goober who likes to hurt himself or destroy his car by 'repairing' it
I worked at AZ for a while, and the official policy was 'no auto repair in the lot' but folks did it all the time