My Road Tripper
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sephson
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sephson
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Here's the completed framework with the solar panels in place and ready to install. I'll probably get to that part next week.
Having access to the shop facilities at work made this a lot easier than it would have been trying to do it at home or on the road. Nuts, bolts and such are stainless steel where possible. The corner braces were only available in powder coated or galvanized, so I went with galvanized. Where the nuts and bolts are accessible, I used security bolts or nuts. Granted, this won't make them impossible to steal, but anyone who tries will have to work for it.
Having access to the shop facilities at work made this a lot easier than it would have been trying to do it at home or on the road. Nuts, bolts and such are stainless steel where possible. The corner braces were only available in powder coated or galvanized, so I went with galvanized. Where the nuts and bolts are accessible, I used security bolts or nuts. Granted, this won't make them impossible to steal, but anyone who tries will have to work for it.
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sephson
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It's that whole learning curve thing, you know, figuring out what works and what doesn't, then trying to come up with time to actually turn my observations into reality.
Speaking of which, I got a little more work done today. I only had about an hour, but I got some more prep work done for the installation.
I figured out how to route my wiring so I don't have to drill a hole through the roof.
I removed a trim piece from the left rear corner of the roof.
Then I drilled a 7/8 in. hole in the trim piece.
After a little work with a Dremel tool to smooth out the underside, I attached a 1/2 in. NPT, submersible cord grip fitting. I know it's overkill, but it was a leftover part from a project I did at work a year and a half ago, so free.
I reinstalled the trim piece.
Then reattached the roof rack.
More to follow later.
Speaking of which, I got a little more work done today. I only had about an hour, but I got some more prep work done for the installation.
I figured out how to route my wiring so I don't have to drill a hole through the roof.
I removed a trim piece from the left rear corner of the roof.
Then I drilled a 7/8 in. hole in the trim piece.
After a little work with a Dremel tool to smooth out the underside, I attached a 1/2 in. NPT, submersible cord grip fitting. I know it's overkill, but it was a leftover part from a project I did at work a year and a half ago, so free.
I reinstalled the trim piece.
Then reattached the roof rack.
More to follow later.
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sephson
Well-known member
I made a little more progress after work today, strictly cable routing on the back side of the panels.
Connections between the two panels complete.
I opted to use zip ties connected to zip tie mounting bases.
All zip ties in place.
I love my zip tie clipper! It makes trimming these things incredibly easy and gets them just s bit tighter than I can manage by hand.
And now this portion of the cable run is completely dressed.
It'll be a couple days before I get any more done.
Connections between the two panels complete.
I opted to use zip ties connected to zip tie mounting bases.
All zip ties in place.
I love my zip tie clipper! It makes trimming these things incredibly easy and gets them just s bit tighter than I can manage by hand.
And now this portion of the cable run is completely dressed.
It'll be a couple days before I get any more done.
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Kia girl
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Nice, thank you a lot of ideas you have given me. Did you remove the back part of the seat to the back seat. I am trying to figure that part out. I threw stuff over it but I think it would make it so much flatter for me. If you have could you please tell me how? If not what did you do to make it flatter?
sephson
Well-known member
I'll be removing the rear seat when I finish installing the solar. I'll document that as well.
Without removing the back seat, it will never fully flatten, though sleeping on my side helps.
Without removing the back seat, it will never fully flatten, though sleeping on my side helps.
Kia girl
Well-known member
That would be great to know that you figured it out. I am short and fit without removing the front seat but that odd slant for storing stuff is a pain in the back seat. Sleeping isn't so bad with the pads I have. I figure our seats are probably the same even though the year off the car is different so if you get it please let me know.
sephson
Well-known member
If I were just a little bit shorter I could move my bed to the passenger side. Unfortunately, due to the passenger seat having fewer adjustments, I just don't quite fit on that side of the car. Setting the bed up on the driver's side buys an extra two inches.
sephson
Well-known member
I finally had some time to do a little more work .
I put together my battery box.
First, here's my battery. I got it for free from my employer. It was used for a power supply on a set on the last show and is no longer needed.
After a few measurements I cut up some scrap lumber.
I asked one of my co-workers to weld these up for me.
I put together my battery box.
First, here's my battery. I got it for free from my employer. It was used for a power supply on a set on the last show and is no longer needed.
After a few measurements I cut up some scrap lumber.
I asked one of my co-workers to weld these up for me.
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sephson
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sephson
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Partially assembled with thermostat placed on the lid.
I pulled these knobs off of some old stage lighting equipment.
They were too cool not to use them!
I still have some finishing work to do before the box is ready to install, but it's nice to be making some progress.
I pulled these knobs off of some old stage lighting equipment.
They were too cool not to use them!
I still have some finishing work to do before the box is ready to install, but it's nice to be making some progress.
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Kia girl
Well-known member
sephson said:
Can I ask where you found the roof rails and what brand they are? I have been looking all over for some for my car and can only find the cross bars.
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sephson
Well-known member
I got the roof rails from SSD Performance. Bear in mind that they're not cheap. The roof rails for the 2010-2013 Soul run $239.00 and the rails for the 2014-2017 run $219.00 while "universal" roof rails go for a lot less. They also carry crossbars, but I got mine elsewhere because I could get them considerably cheaper. I decided that the SSD rails were worth the extra expense simply because I didn't have to take down my headliner or drill and then seal holes in my roof.
ssdkia.blogspot.com
I was also able to find OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) rails for the soul. They cost less and would have worked with the existing mount points, but the SSD rails made for a better foundation for my solar panels.
https://www.mykiaparts.com/oem-part...Vssr07pzmIOKa0iZRXjoxT9Izqvxk9KxoCmUkQAvD_BwE
ssdkia.blogspot.com
I was also able to find OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) rails for the soul. They cost less and would have worked with the existing mount points, but the SSD rails made for a better foundation for my solar panels.
https://www.mykiaparts.com/oem-part...Vssr07pzmIOKa0iZRXjoxT9Izqvxk9KxoCmUkQAvD_BwE
sephson
Well-known member
Well, I've got a lot of updating to do here.
I had to rework my battery box. I made the mistake of pulling the measurements from memory rather than writing them down, so it didn't fit in the space available.
Fortunately I was able to simply trim down the ends, top and bottom pieces. For the sides I was able to use some leftover 1/8 in. thick aluminum strips I had leftover from a project I worked on a few months ago.
I had to rework the lid a little
Fortunately I was still able to use two of the knobs as handles.
The assembled battery box.
I had to rework my battery box. I made the mistake of pulling the measurements from memory rather than writing them down, so it didn't fit in the space available.
Fortunately I was able to simply trim down the ends, top and bottom pieces. For the sides I was able to use some leftover 1/8 in. thick aluminum strips I had leftover from a project I worked on a few months ago.
I had to rework the lid a little
Fortunately I was still able to use two of the knobs as handles.
The assembled battery box.
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sephson
Well-known member
I painted everything black and carpeted the outside of the box so that it blends in with the interior of the car.
I added a battery tray that was leftover from project from two years ago.
Power distribution for the thermostat for the air circulation fans in the battery box. The orange block is a fuse holder with .125 amp fuse in it.
I added a battery tray that was leftover from project from two years ago.
Power distribution for the thermostat for the air circulation fans in the battery box. The orange block is a fuse holder with .125 amp fuse in it.
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sephson
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For about two weeks I'd been trying to figure out where to put my power distribution/switch panel/voltage meter, then I had a flash of inspiration. I cut out a scrap of leftover carpet from the battery box and wedged it between the glass and the wall panel.
As for how to attach the thing, I once again turned to some leftover 1/8 in. aluminum from a project I worked on somewhere between five and ten years ago.
As for how to attach the thing, I once again turned to some leftover 1/8 in. aluminum from a project I worked on somewhere between five and ten years ago.
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sephson
Well-known member
I drilled and tapped a few holes for some 6-32 screws. I also turned the voltage meter 90 degrees. That was a bit of a pain. I had to modify the mount with a Dremel tool because the meter was not designed with a vertical orientation of the panel in mind.
I primed and painted the aluminum piece.
Then I installed the sucker.
Test fitting the fuse box.
Test fitting the inverter.
I primed and painted the aluminum piece.
Then I installed the sucker.
Test fitting the fuse box.
Test fitting the inverter.
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sephson
Well-known member
This one is for Kia girl.
Removal of the rear seat.
There's one bolt securing the seat cushion. It's dead center at the back of the cushion, just below the seat back. It's a metric bolt, but a 9/16 socket with a 1 ft. extension worked fine for removing it. You may need a handle extension for some extra leverage to get the bolt started. I just slipped a 3 ft. piece of 1 in. EMT conduit over the socket wrench handle.
There are also two retaining clips with push button releases on the bottom front of the seat cushion. Releasing them is easy. Finding them is a little trickier.
Here's what it looks like with the cushion gone. You should be able to see one of the retaining clips along the front edge and part of the other one.
The seat back is held in by three mounting brackets secured by two bolts apiece for a total of six bolts. Three of them are accessible from the front. The other three are accessible from the rear, but are a little trick to get to due to tight clearances. You can see one of the bolts in this picture to the left of the seat belt mount.
This seat belt mount has to be disconnected in order to remove the seat back. Another of the mounting brackets for the seat back is visible to the left of the seat belt mount.
Removal of the rear seat.
There's one bolt securing the seat cushion. It's dead center at the back of the cushion, just below the seat back. It's a metric bolt, but a 9/16 socket with a 1 ft. extension worked fine for removing it. You may need a handle extension for some extra leverage to get the bolt started. I just slipped a 3 ft. piece of 1 in. EMT conduit over the socket wrench handle.
There are also two retaining clips with push button releases on the bottom front of the seat cushion. Releasing them is easy. Finding them is a little trickier.
Here's what it looks like with the cushion gone. You should be able to see one of the retaining clips along the front edge and part of the other one.
The seat back is held in by three mounting brackets secured by two bolts apiece for a total of six bolts. Three of them are accessible from the front. The other three are accessible from the rear, but are a little trick to get to due to tight clearances. You can see one of the bolts in this picture to the left of the seat belt mount.
This seat belt mount has to be disconnected in order to remove the seat back. Another of the mounting brackets for the seat back is visible to the left of the seat belt mount.
