What charger are you all happy with? I'll be looking to charge 2 6v GF batteries in series (or individually?) with 232ah each using a Champion 2000 Inverter/ gen as power source. I see a lot of Schumakers on Amazon but some ratings look bad....though a small percentage generally.
Multi stage battery chargers
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Optimistic Paranoid
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I haven't bought one yet. I'm looking hard at a couple of marine battery chargers. Xantrex is one possibility.
http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Truec...pebp=1435783296569&perid=1PP05WYXZ96KT7AMNYQD
I like the fact that it is programmable for FLA, AGM, GEL or whatever. Futureproof, as it were. Also, the optional Battery Temp Sensor.
Downside is that I think it's made in China.
I'm also looking at products from Sterling Power, a British company with an American presence. They make a number of interesting products.
http://www.sterling-power-usa.com/sterlingpowerbatterychargers.aspx
Regards
John
http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Truec...pebp=1435783296569&perid=1PP05WYXZ96KT7AMNYQD
I like the fact that it is programmable for FLA, AGM, GEL or whatever. Futureproof, as it were. Also, the optional Battery Temp Sensor.
Downside is that I think it's made in China.
I'm also looking at products from Sterling Power, a British company with an American presence. They make a number of interesting products.
http://www.sterling-power-usa.com/sterlingpowerbatterychargers.aspx
Regards
John
Thanks for the links John. I just noticed the shop where I'll buy my batteries sells a ProLogic charger for about $65, but I'll have to do some more research on it and will post what I find out. I guess for what I want the price will be 3x that so this charger must be a single stage.
I've been happy with this charger from Vmaxtanks, though I'm not sure I spent that much on it: http://www.amazon.com/7-Stage-Batte...530&sr=8-2&keywords=vmaxtanks+battery+charger
My only complaint, which may well be true of all chargers for all I know, is that during the "bulk" and "absorption" stages it can get too hot to touch on some parts of it. Then again, I don't have it mounted, so I just experiment with creative positioning. It's taken a lot of abuse rattling around in the back and doesn't have a single scratch on it, still looks and works brand new.
My only complaint, which may well be true of all chargers for all I know, is that during the "bulk" and "absorption" stages it can get too hot to touch on some parts of it. Then again, I don't have it mounted, so I just experiment with creative positioning. It's taken a lot of abuse rattling around in the back and doesn't have a single scratch on it, still looks and works brand new.
Optimistic Paranoid
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Review of 9 different Marine Battery Chargers from a magazine called SAILING TODAY.
http://www.sterling-power-usa.com/l...Stage Batttery Charger Comparison Article.pdf
Regards
John
http://www.sterling-power-usa.com/l...Stage Batttery Charger Comparison Article.pdf
Regards
John
SternWake
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Automatic chargers, those with included alligator clamps, are not really designed to both power loads AND charge the batteries, though some can manage doing this without wild voltage swings as the load changes/Cycles on and off, like a compressor fridge. many will sense a cycling load and flash an error light and shut down, or they might skyrocket to an unsafe voltage when the load is removed, or both. The closer the battery is to full charge, the more likely that the charger will get confused.
RV converters are designed to both be power supply and 3 or 4 stage charger. These do not come with cable clamps to hook to battery. You must provide your own cabling between them and batteries.
Iota, Progressive Dynamics and Powermax are the big 3 converter makers, and all have slightly different absorption target voltages and durations, as well as different float voltages. None of them ideal for any given battery. Everything is a compromise.
US battery recommends 10 to 13% of the total capacity in charging amps. 10 to 13 amps per 100AH of capacity.
I would not go less than a 30 amp charger for a pair of GC batteries. The Iota DLS-30 at the minimum.
I would not fear putting a pair of GC batteries on an 80 amp charger though I know this number scares a lot of people. The batteries can take it, and more, when deeply discharged, easily, and if they do not need all 80 amps, they will not take it all, only what they need to be held at the target voltage to 'absorb', the charge
Progressive Dynamics PD 92XX series has a remote pendant where one can press a button and force the converter to seek 14.4v, or 13.6, or 13.2 volts and override the automatic stages. This is a good feature as sometimes converters only shoot for a high 13 voltage when 14.4 would be so much faster.
The XX comes in different amp flavors. get the PD9245 or the PD9260 are 45 amp and 60 amp models respectively.
Powermax has a bunch of different models out there, and their absorption voltage varies from 14.4 to 14.8 depending on who you buy it from.
powermax also has a single stage adjustable voltage model where one pics the absorption voltage and it will put out full power until the battery voltaqe approaches the set voltage, then amps taper. A manual option that is good if one is using a generator and wants minimal run times and maximum charging to happen in that genny run time.
Marine chargers are generally lower amperage, and a lot more expensive and could still be confused if there is a load on the batteries when charging.
I use a Meanwell RSP-500-15 adjustable voltage power supply as a manual charger. It is not automatic, but it is a 40 amp charger that will seek and hold any lead acid battery at any voltage I desire from 13.12 to 19.23v. It is Awesome, but it must be monitored so as to not leave the battery at 14.xx volts for too long.
A charging source which can accomplish 16 volts, when desired, for an Equalization is very advantageous.
Black and Decker has a fairly well respected 40 amp charger, the BD 1093 than can do 15.7 when asked to do so, and will then the EQ automatically. Not a good charger for powering loads and charging batteries, but a great 3 stage automatic charger, if you can still acquire one.
I really recommend no less than a 25 to 30 amp charger for a pair of 6v GC batteries, and if it can do 14.8v then they will also charge a bit faster.
Screw the low and slow trickle charge mentality that persists online. When the next discharge cycle starts that evening or soon, then a faster charge rate will make the batteries happier. And both USbattery and trojan have minimum initial bulk current ratings at 10%, so discarding their recommendations is foolish.
Essentially when charging, one is pretty blind as to what is happening. Voltage alone tells well less than half the story. The amp flow at that voltage tells 95% of the story.
An Ammeter/voltmeter combo is a great way to determine how close the batteries are to fully charged. Taking 30 amps at 14.4, no where near fully charged. Only taking 2.5 amps at 14.4v...... very close to fully charged. 14.4v with no amperage figure known, you are blind.
Put this on the charger output, and you can see for yourself:
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-4-5-30V-...sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PAVVGA9NT43X107TV5S
Most automatic chargers stop applying absorption voltage way too early. The ammeter will let you know when the charger wimped out prematurely and dropped to a lower voltage. If you can force it to seek 14.4v again, like the PD9245 allows, you are 10 steps ahead of every other person with an automatic charging source.
The key to fully charging any lead acid battery is the correct time at the correct absorption voltage. Those chargers that flash the green light and drop to float voltage, are almost always wrong.
The green light, full charge indicator lies. Do not let it sooth you unless you verified it with a Hydrometer.
RV converters are designed to both be power supply and 3 or 4 stage charger. These do not come with cable clamps to hook to battery. You must provide your own cabling between them and batteries.
Iota, Progressive Dynamics and Powermax are the big 3 converter makers, and all have slightly different absorption target voltages and durations, as well as different float voltages. None of them ideal for any given battery. Everything is a compromise.
US battery recommends 10 to 13% of the total capacity in charging amps. 10 to 13 amps per 100AH of capacity.
I would not go less than a 30 amp charger for a pair of GC batteries. The Iota DLS-30 at the minimum.
I would not fear putting a pair of GC batteries on an 80 amp charger though I know this number scares a lot of people. The batteries can take it, and more, when deeply discharged, easily, and if they do not need all 80 amps, they will not take it all, only what they need to be held at the target voltage to 'absorb', the charge
Progressive Dynamics PD 92XX series has a remote pendant where one can press a button and force the converter to seek 14.4v, or 13.6, or 13.2 volts and override the automatic stages. This is a good feature as sometimes converters only shoot for a high 13 voltage when 14.4 would be so much faster.
The XX comes in different amp flavors. get the PD9245 or the PD9260 are 45 amp and 60 amp models respectively.
Powermax has a bunch of different models out there, and their absorption voltage varies from 14.4 to 14.8 depending on who you buy it from.
powermax also has a single stage adjustable voltage model where one pics the absorption voltage and it will put out full power until the battery voltaqe approaches the set voltage, then amps taper. A manual option that is good if one is using a generator and wants minimal run times and maximum charging to happen in that genny run time.
Marine chargers are generally lower amperage, and a lot more expensive and could still be confused if there is a load on the batteries when charging.
I use a Meanwell RSP-500-15 adjustable voltage power supply as a manual charger. It is not automatic, but it is a 40 amp charger that will seek and hold any lead acid battery at any voltage I desire from 13.12 to 19.23v. It is Awesome, but it must be monitored so as to not leave the battery at 14.xx volts for too long.
A charging source which can accomplish 16 volts, when desired, for an Equalization is very advantageous.
Black and Decker has a fairly well respected 40 amp charger, the BD 1093 than can do 15.7 when asked to do so, and will then the EQ automatically. Not a good charger for powering loads and charging batteries, but a great 3 stage automatic charger, if you can still acquire one.
I really recommend no less than a 25 to 30 amp charger for a pair of 6v GC batteries, and if it can do 14.8v then they will also charge a bit faster.
Screw the low and slow trickle charge mentality that persists online. When the next discharge cycle starts that evening or soon, then a faster charge rate will make the batteries happier. And both USbattery and trojan have minimum initial bulk current ratings at 10%, so discarding their recommendations is foolish.
Essentially when charging, one is pretty blind as to what is happening. Voltage alone tells well less than half the story. The amp flow at that voltage tells 95% of the story.
An Ammeter/voltmeter combo is a great way to determine how close the batteries are to fully charged. Taking 30 amps at 14.4, no where near fully charged. Only taking 2.5 amps at 14.4v...... very close to fully charged. 14.4v with no amperage figure known, you are blind.
Put this on the charger output, and you can see for yourself:
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-4-5-30V-...sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PAVVGA9NT43X107TV5S
Most automatic chargers stop applying absorption voltage way too early. The ammeter will let you know when the charger wimped out prematurely and dropped to a lower voltage. If you can force it to seek 14.4v again, like the PD9245 allows, you are 10 steps ahead of every other person with an automatic charging source.
The key to fully charging any lead acid battery is the correct time at the correct absorption voltage. Those chargers that flash the green light and drop to float voltage, are almost always wrong.
The green light, full charge indicator lies. Do not let it sooth you unless you verified it with a Hydrometer.
SternWake said:
Thanks. I placed my order for the DROK.
The Renogy 30A controller held the 14+ for longer than the Powermax 80A I have. The Renogy actually got to a float of 13.15V. The Powermax isn't getting there. It does 14+ then 13.66 forever. This weekend I'll hook the DROK in and see what is what.
Frequent clouds in the NY-NJ area past few days.
-Wayne
