Is Mini Van Insulation Necessary?

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Has anyone used this?  Seems like a pretty good solution.   Not the cheapest though.

https://smile.amazon.com/Siless-Alu...dp/B085642G7M/ref=psdc_15709561_t4_B004PILLZG


[img=200x200]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71fay4D+jHS._AC_SL1500_.jpg[/img]


[*]Closed Cell Foam: OIL and Waterproof AluFoil LINER closed-cell polyethylene foam with aluminum finish is the best for car, Siless with an adhesive layer 100% ensures optimum efficiency and thermal insulation that could be possibly gained. The price of 1 sqft of Siless Liner with similar characteristics is more then three times cheaper! Excellent quality for less money!!

[*]Heat Blocker and Vibration Deadener: Effectively blocks 98% of radiant heat transfer. Siless Liner is a very versatile insulation material with excellent thermal barrier properties that will block engine, exhaust, & summer heat, ensure your vehicle stays cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, making your ride more pleasant!

[*]Lightweight, Waterproof: It is a waterproof light-weight thermal deadener with highly compressible closed cell foam formulation, it absolutely doesn’t absorb moisture and has no odor, and it’s flexible which make it easy to install with or without roller.

[*]The operating temperature of the material is the same as of the rubber foam up to 215 degrees Fahrenheit.

[*]SILESS ALUMINUM FOIL Liner specifications: Self-adhesive foam rolls (closed cell PE foam) with waterproof glue. Thickness 157 mil / 0.157 inches / 4mm. Number of rolls in the package - 1. Total coverage area - 36 ft². Each roll size - 15.74 x 330.7 inches.
 
^^^I don't see any R rating and would you really gain much with so many windows? Air temps here are now above 100 degrees, it's gonna take more than insulation!
 
In a minivan, your biggest heat loss or gain is going to be via the windows. The plastic & fabric interior panels, the headliner, and the air gaps between them and the metal exterior, provide more insulation than bare windows. You would receive the most benefit by finding a way to cover the windows. You'd also gain privacy. Reflectix is popular but not very effective for keeping warm(er) air inside. It's meant as a radiant barrier (like for keeping out sunlight) but you're losing heat through conduction and convection. Something thicker, like a half inch of foam glued to poster board would work better. Also, vehicles aren't air tight. Cold air can enter (or warm air escape) through the dash vents. A blanket over the dash might help.
 
MrNoodly said:
In a minivan, your biggest heat loss or gain is going to be via the windows. The plastic & fabric interior panels, the headliner, and the air gaps between them and the metal exterior, provide more insulation than bare windows. You would receive the most benefit by finding a way to cover the windows. You'd also gain privacy. Reflectix is popular but not very effective for keeping warm(er) air inside. It's meant as a radiant barrier (like for keeping out sunlight) but you're losing heat through conduction and convection. Something thicker, like a half inch of foam glued to poster board would work better. Also, vehicles aren't air tight. Cold air can enter (or warm air escape) through the dash vents. A blanket over the dash might help.
 
The blanket over the vents sounds like a very good idea in extreme weather conditions. Thanks for the idea. I’ve seen videos of external fabric drawn across the outside of the windshield and around over the side windows as well,
 
There's a couple living in a van in Canada that have absolutely no insulation in their van and they're very happy!

Depending on where you are and where and when you travel, you may find that you don't feel the need to fit insulation in your van.
 
Whenever you are going to try to control the climate inside of your vehicle, the better the insulation the less impact you will have from external factors. In cold climates you will need to run the heater less. In hot weather, you will be able to cool down the interior more efficiently. The purpose of insulation is to make controlling your interior climate more efficient and less energy intensive. If you are always in a temperate climate and are happy with the ambient temperature then the need for insulation is minimized.
 
Hi,

Thought I'd add some of my small vehicle stay warm tricks, too.

Cushions about 2 feet long and 6" diameter, They go between each front seat and the doornext to it. They go under the front seats. This prevents air from moving between the front and back at floor level.

A web of bungees or strings between mirror, visors, hand grips or even with the door closed on them. At the moment I have 2 reflective windshield covers up there. I put the cut outs for the mirrors in the middle of the ceiling so I can reach the dome light.

I still use one of the rear seats to sit in. There is space under it for 2 cushions. On the floor are 2 inches of styrofoam and a piece of a foam rubber anti-fatigue mat that just fits in the entire space. The piece cut off of it is along the bottom of the door with one end behind the cushion next to the front seat. If I forget it's there and step on it, neither of us is damaged.

Front window started out with a heavy curtain and velcro around the edges in warmer weather. Since then I have cut 2 pieces of 1/2' styrofoam with 2 velcro tabs to line them up before I put up the curtain.

The window on the rear hatch just has the glass, no frame. I used some wire clips (P shaped plastic usually screwed to a surface) round the edge of a piece of yoga mat which I had cut to fit. Usually you put a screw through 2 holes in the clip. I put a rivet through one hole. Since then I have cut 1/2' foam to go between the glass and mat on this one too.

I saved the best for last although I only have the 2 front windows done so far. I found dark grey, 1' styrofoam and cut inserts for the windows. If you push too hard, the foam can start to mess with the weather strip along the window. With a sanding sponge I sanded the back edge so I can push the foam against the glass without touching the weather strip. Then I put the foam on the picnic table with the inside facing up. I put 1/3 of the width of duct tape all around the edge with 2/3 sticking out. Then I folded that part in half with the 2 sticky sides together. Now, with the door open I put the insert into the opening so that the bottom tape flap is resting on the edge of the door. The other three tape edges are in front of the metal frame around the door when I shut it.

When I park, I always set the car heater settings where I will want them IF I break down and go for Plan C. I, of course, am Plan A. Here is Plan B. I have a small single burner stove for coffee and cooking. I haven't convinced myself that I need a second device to heat with. I took a large metal coffee can and put a handle on it that won't burn my fingers when it's hot. I filled it with small rocks about 1-2 thumb size. I set it on the stove with the heat set very low. The heat radiates slowly out from it rather than wanting to peel my face and freeze my knees. When I turn the stove off, like at night, the rocks radiate heat for quite a while. If you need to move it you WILL NEED a handle that prevents you from getting burned. Gloves aren't enough.

MG
 
I just spent a little over a week where temps dipped just below freezing.
I was 100% comfortable raised off the floof 15 inches on a cot with two closed cell foam pads on top of the cot.

Had a diesel heater running (5Kw) at it's lowest setting and had to open windows and doors just to not roast.
Next road trip I'll take along my 2Kw diesel heater and keep the 5Kw heater just as a backup if needed.

So, do you really need insulation?  For cold weather ?
Depends on how cold it is outside.  Above 20F probably not.

Get a good set of insulated window covers and get up off the floor, then either use a good cold weather sleeping bag or a heater of some kind.
I like sleeping on top of all the covers free and comfortable so the diesel heater keeps it toasty comfortable and DRY inside....for about 30 cents a night.
 
Hello all and Merry Xmas,

I'm kinda in the same boat as the OP here. I'm shopping around and one of the things I was thinking I could do is get some kinda spray on insulation? My fantasy would be a well cleaned out van that I can prep for spraying then build the panels and flooring over the insulation. Obviously I would have to have the walls and flooring properly supported for this to happen correctly. The roof would probably be just bare. But it doesn't look like this idea is sound. In 2 pages I don't think anyone really mentioned this.

So no spray-on insulation?
 
Hello all and Merry Xmas,

I'm kinda in the same boat as the OP here. I'm shopping around and one of the things I was thinking I could do is get some kinda spray on insulation? My fantasy would be a well cleaned out van that I can prep for spraying then build the panels and flooring over the insulation. Obviously I would have to have the walls and flooring properly supported for this to happen correctly. The roof would probably be just bare. But it doesn't look like this idea is sound. In 2 pages I don't think anyone really mentioned this.

So no spray-on insulation?
The focus of this discussion has been on minivans. Minivans are already finished out with a certain amount of insulation and materials between the outer metal and the interior, so the topic has focused on what to do for additional insulation. Not surprising that spray on insulation wasn't mentioned. (I have a minivan which I do not intend to strip down to the bare metal, so I've found the discussion interesting. There's a guy on YT who stripped the back part of his miniivan down for a radical build - I think his channel is called Journeyvision.)

If you're going to buy a vehicle and take it down to the bare metal - or start with one that's pretty much already down to the bare metal in the cargo area - that's a different discussion. Are you looking at minivans or regular size cargo vans? Have you looked through all the discussions here under "insulation?" I seem to recall some discussions about insulating a van from the bare metal in.

Merry Christmas ,and I wish you good luck in finding your vehicle!
 
(1) Cold doesn't get in; heat gets out. Yes, cold air might penetrate gaps and holes, but all things considered, if you feel cold in your van, heat is GETTING OUT--cold is NOT getting in.

(2) Heat rises. The coldest place in your van is next to the floor; the warmest place is next to the roof. If you're gonna insulate, start with the roof, to prevent or reduce heat loss where it's most likely to happen. Heat will NOT escape through the floor.

(3) 95% of the heat loss goes through the roof, in the form of longwave radiation. You can reduce this or practically eliminate it by parking UNDER something--anything. You can achieve the same effect by putting something on your roof rack, if you have one. You can also achieve this effect by preventing longwave radiation from the air in your living space from reaching the roof; I do this by hanging a tarp over my living space, secured with ceramic bar magnets in the corners. This is NOT a vapor barrier.
 
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