Insulator / Vapor Barrier and Noise Deadener - EZ COOL INSULATION

[CarCampire]

I have read many, MANY posts here and found that the general consensus is to use pink Styrofoam board…

2” Styrofoam / insulation have about an R value of 10.

I also read that great stuff spray foam helps to fill in the gaps…

Some also suggest you use reflectix / bubble wrap on the van walls to be a vapor barrier, quiet the squeaking noise while driving and just look spiffy (as it does nothing without a gap)…

Then there are suggestions for noise deadeners…



Anyway- I wanted a product that was a vapor barrier, noise deadener and insulator;



Guess what I found:

http://www.lobucrod.com/index.html



Let me know your thoughts!

 

[riffraff]

At first glance that stuff looks pretty damn good!

 

[CarCampire]

Here's what got me:

Q: What is the R Value?

A: Down = 13 Horizontal = 9.6 Up = 8.1 This is better than 2" of fiberglass insulation.

+ Moisture barrier and sound deadener.

+ You can stick it to the van walls with some spray on adhesive and it's less thick then the standard pink Styrofoam.

 

[akrvbob]

It's nothing but Reflectix with a different inner core. It only has value against reflective heat and so it works exactly like Reflectix.

If there is no air gap, it is worthless as an insulation!

Bob

 

[LeeRevell]

The closed-cell foam inner core IS the air gap, from what I understand. Basically a 1/4" foam board with aluminum on both sides. Should work well for it's thickness.

 

[akrvbob]

I don't think so. That inner foam is so thin it's R value is non-existent, less than R 1 I'm sure.

It says right on the FAQ page that it's insulation value is for reflecting radiant heat. And without at least a 1/2 inch if air space between the foil and the source of the heat (which in this case is the sun coming through the sheet metal) it has no Radiant value.

This website is deceptive and they are not telling you the whole truth. Study the Reflectix website because they are very honest and up front about what it can and cannot do.

This is the exact same stuff and I doubt if it is any better or even as good. I doubt the foam is better than bubble wrap.
Bob

 

[CarCampire]

What if I stuck this to the back of a plywood board and left a gap in between it an the van walls?

Think the R value they claim on the site would have more realism to it?

It does work as a sound deadener- saw a few youtube video's where the guy knocked on the van walls with and with-out the stuff stuck to it and it was much less 'tin can' sounding with the stuff on it.

 

[akrvbob]

CarCampire, yes it would hep with heat in the summer. But because the inside had no air space it would not help with staying warm in the winter.

Reflectix (and this as a clone) is a great stuff but it is not a good choice for van insulation. You would be much, much better off with Polyiso insulation (it's a better type of styrofoam) that is R6 per inch.

Bob

 

[CarCampire]

The pink stuff it is.

Might still use as a noise deadener though.

Sorry for the false advertizing everyone.

If it's a reflectix clone than I totally jumped the gun.

 

[highdesertranger]

boy I am going to have to read this website again. I have it on my favs. the closed cell foam if that's what in there is an excellent insulator. it does not need an air gap. the old backpacking pads were made of this. I know you could lay those pads on snow then your sleeping bag and be comfy all night. bob I thought you said in previous post that this was excellent insulation, I mean the closed cell foam backpacking pads. I know I use it all the time and can say it is excellent. I will have to read the website again and see what the insulating material is. highdesertranger

 

[CarCampire]

Works as a noise deadener..



highdesertranger - Please let me know if this is more of that back pack material or more like reflectix.

I'm very curious.

 

[akrvbob]

This is a radiant heat barrier and doesn't work with anything else. On the FAQ page one of the questions is does it help to double the insulation this is their answer:

"Doubling the insulation does not double its effectiveness. One layer will block 98% of the radiant heat, so the second layer will not have that heat to block."

What happens if you double the amount of styrofoam or fiberglass batts? The R value doubles and the effectiveness of the insulation doubles because it is blocking the transfer of heat through a substance. This does not do that!!!!!

All this does is reflect radiant heat. But without an air gap there is no where for the heat to go, so it just stays right there. Since this product has no R value, the heat then just passes right through it to the inside of the van.

Unlike this site, the Reflectix site is very honest. This is what they say about the need for an air gap:

Why are Air Spaces Required (in every application)?
For either a reflective insulation or a radiant barrier, an air space of a minimum thickness is required on the reflective side of the product. (Most Reflectix® products are reflective (shiny) on both sides.) The reflective insulation benefit is derived from the interaction of the highly reflective surface with the air space. If the reflective surface is in contact with another building material, it becomes a conductor (transmitting the energy by conduction). An air space may be specified on one or both sides of the product (always on a reflective side). Enclosed air spaces, when instructed, are required to provide the stated R-value.

Without an air gap, this product has almost no value as insulation. To find the real truth about Radiant heat and Reflective insulation go to this page on the Reflectix website:
http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage.asp?PageName=Performance+Information&PageIndex=730

Bob

 

[CarCampire]

Gottcha. Thank you!

 

[vanman2300]

I'm wondering about a post where they solved all 3 concerns of insulating, reflecting heat, and noise reduction.....what do you guys think? It employed the following structure: 1) bottom layer of 1" thick bubble wrap 2) reflectix 3) 1/2" bubble wrap 4) aluminum mylar layer (also acting as a moisture barrier) and then finally 5) a covering of wood or whatever type of finished outter covering you wanted.

I'm not even close to an expert on insulation so any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[freenez2]

Am late to post on this topic, but am throwing my two cents in anyway...

I used this for sound deadening:
http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html

Polyisocyanurate is good for managing temperature:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_42864-236-263065_0__?productId=3057515

 

[akrvbob]

I keep beating this dead horse, he's turning into a bloody mess by now.

For insulation in a van radiant barriers are a poor choice. You want products with a high R Value per. That's the only thing that counts!!!!! Nothing beats polyiso or styrofoam for insulation in a van.

I don't know what the R value is of bubble wrap, but i'm sure it's very low.
Bob

 

[Free Range Chicken]

Am late to post on this topic, but am throwing my two cents in anyway...

I used this for sound deadening:
http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html

Polyisocyanurate is good for managing temperature:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_42864-236-263065_0__?productId=3057515

Hello freenez2. I haven't bought sound deadening yet, but am inclinng towards the fat Mat rattle trap. Just because everyone else used it. Why r u using a different sound deadening product ? Just curious thanks.

 

[freenez2]

Free Range Chicken, The b-quiet product was the best I could find 6 or 7 years ago when the van was built out. I don't recall the fatmat products being available then. Fat mat rattle trap looks like a good product.

 

[johnny b]

Prodex is the same as EZ Cool and a little cheaper I think.
http://www.insulation4less.com/Default.aspx
Looking for the fine print, here is their explanation for their R 16 value claim:
"*Parameters of test: 24-inch on center 2" x 6" wood assembly. Roof application. Test method ASTM 1116. Airspace of 2.64 inch on each side of product. Heat-flow direction down. Interior side of product exposed..." (that's 5 1/4 inches of airspace!)

Also....CarCampire, don't spray "open cell" foam (most common single can spray foams) into gaps, etc...it absorbs water like a sponge and will accelerate the rust process.