Ideal truck for slide in or more

[offroad]

I keep thinking that  4x4 2500 size truck would be just perfect in so many ways.  I could tow a trailer, or I could put a slide in camper and use 4x4 to get me to some interesting places. 

talking to my mechanic, he can see the 2500 size, that has a throttle body (with fuel injectors, not full inject rails) as the ideal simple solution configuration that can be fixed by any monkey mechanic, including myself.

Obviously need an 8 foot bed also. 

Now to the shopping.  Supposedly the 1995 and earlier models Chevy have this.  Would hope to find a truck with OBDII in it, even with a simple computer.  Also need those good disk brakes on the ideal truck.  Do not need a Duelly if it can handle a 1 ton load, but will be looking at differences between 1 ton and 3/4 ton loads.

 

[LoupGarou]

Not knowing the size and model of the slide in camper, you might consider a F350.

 

[offroad]

350 or 3500 can be overkill for capacity. Plus those parts are more expensive to replace. Just started looking and the 2500 is not common at all. So may need to think 3500 any way.

 

[Canine]

I agree that one ton parts are more expensive. I had a one ton and needed rear brakes and those were expensive. Yes, they were better brakes, but I wasn't hauling horses at highway speeds, so they were overkill. And when I replaced the knuckles, wowsers. I wasn't plowing snow, so that was waaaay overkill.

I've said this bunches of times. Just because a truck has a badge that says it is 3/4 ton, doesn't mean it actually is. It could easily be a 1/2 ton. As long as you don't get one of those giant 11 footers with 3 slide-outs, a 3/4 will be just fine. Before campers got that big, 3/4 tons hauled campers for decades with zero problems.

Chevy has the cheapest, easiest to work on, and best working fuel injection. 1987 was just about the only year for TBI and solid front axle. Some models after 87 that combo, but not many. I really wanted to go Chevy this time around, specifically 87, but people are pretty proud of those trucks and ask a lot for them. I went with a 78 Ford. Not my first pick, but when I had to chose money, solid front axle, and TBI, I went with saving some money and making sure I had that solid front axle. The 500cfm Edelbrock and Edelbrock intake on the 351M works very well even at higher elevations. Starts very well, too, and you can feel the secondaries kick in. One of the best carbs I've ever experienced. Got somewhat lucky, I think.

 

[buckwilk]

I have a 12 valve Cummins diesel in a 3/4 ton Dodge, 1998, I have put 240 thousand miles on her and have had very few problems. I am currently carrying an 8 ft Angler cab over camper and towing a lifted jeep Cherokee with 190,000 mi. I get 15 mi. per gal with this setup. The truck is 4wd and a 5 speed.

 

[ZoNiE]

89-95 Chevy (95 having the newer, nicer interior design) is what you want. TBI 350 engine. 454 sucks too much gas, 305 is a dog. I had a 1990 shortbed 2WD and it was a Camaro with a bed. I miss that truck.

 

[highdesertranger]

chevy 1/2 and 3/4 ton sadly went to an independent front suspension in 1988 and the first year of throttle body fuel injection for these trucks was 1987. so it is true there is only one year for a SFA and TBI for 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. however blazers, suburbans, and 1tons kept the straight axle through 1991. now on to the other subject about how parts for a 1 ton are much more expensive, really, anybody have any examples of this. they share many of the same parts cheap parts are cheap no matter what they are for. the parts for the 1ton that are more expensive is the heavy duty stuff. sure a t400 trans is more than a t350 but does anybody actually want a t350. a 4L80 is more than a 700r but who wants a 700r. a dana 60 is more than a corp 10 bolt or dana 44 front axle, but a dana 60 is legendary for strength and longevity. so when someone say's parts for a one ton are more expensive, I welcome it they last 10 times longer. thank god chevy's are totally interchangeable. remember this all the military chevys had t400 transmissions all chevy 1 tons 4x4 have dana 60 front axles. sure you can bolt the lessor parts right in, but why would you want to. highdesertranger

 

[offroad]

I have a 12 valve Cummins diesel in a 3/4 ton Dodge, 1998, I have put 240 thousand miles on her and have had very few problems. I am currently carrying an 8 ft Angler cab over camper and towing a lifted jeep Cherokee with 190,000 mi. I get 15 mi. per gal with this setup. The truck is 4wd and a 5 speed.

Is that manual 5 speed? That's pretty nice. You seem set for all off road situations with a recovery vehicle too.

 

[offroad]

Hoghdesert - good point about the longevity of the heavy duty parts.

 

[Canine]

HDR, excellent comment! But you can't abuse it. For example: Leaving the emergency brake on while driving. Derp! Don't ask how I know.   :s

 

[sushidog]

Carefully look at the weight of the slide-in camper you have in mind. Some are very heavy, requiring a dually. For example, Chalet's TS116FB triple slide camper sure is sweet, but its dry weight is 4,700 lbs. With water, clothes, food and all your other goodies you will use up every bit of an F-350's load capacity - and maybe a tad more.

Chip

 

[masterplumber]

I'm not sure about Chevy, but my old 1995 Ford had an OBDII connector, but not a true OBDII computer. I think you have to go to 1996 to get true OBDII. My favorite camper hauling trucks are a 1996 - 1997 Ford 1 ton with a 7.3 diesel if you want a computer, or a 1994 Ford 1 ton with a 7.3 turbo diesel if you don't want a computer. In my opinion they are the best trucks Ford ever made. I also like the early Cummins engines, but I haven't been impressed with the build quality of the Dodges - including my current 2012 Ram 2500. As for Chevys, my experience is limited to pre 1987 models and those might be getting a little old for you purposes - good trucks though.

I too would go with a 1 ton - I had a 1995 which I hauled a Four Wheel Pop Up on. It was diesel and had a 12,000 Pound capacity winch on the front. Even with such a light weight camper, when loaded for a long trip it weighed in right at 10,000 lbs - slightly over the GVWR for that year. It would have been 1400 lbs over the GVWR of a 3/4 ton of the same vintage.

 

[offroad]

All I want is a 350(0) with eight foot bed and four wheel drive, and minimal computer. Under $10000., with under 100k miles. Is that so hard to ask for? --- am finding it is hard to find.

 

[akrvbob]

Yeah, it will be hard. Minimal computer means 1995 or earlier and that's 20 years old. Most vehicles have more than 100 K after 20 years.
Bob

 

[Canine]

Offroad, you can find that, but be it will take time. Those older, low mileage vehicles do pop up, but only on occasion. Be prepared with cash on hand and be ready to drive to it at a moment's notice.

 

[Canine]

Well what does Craigslist and Autotrader online have in your area or 100 mile radius?

My info, presented before (somewhat) on the truck part of our forum, is distilled down to this:

Each generation, from the 60's through the 2010's, has gotten more complicated, more powerful, capable of hauling or carrying more payload and thus more expensive to purchase and repair. There wasn't that much difference between my 1969 F250 Camper Special 390 C6 and my 1978 F250 390. About the same hp, torque and GVW. Both had 4.10 gears and they both got 10-11 mpg. Solid capable trucks. But the 80's got more complex, fuel injection replaced carburetors, points went away, compression ratios increased over the late 70's, while fuel mileage and GVW stayed about the same. Then came the 90's, a new family of motors with more power, better mileage, carrying heavier payloads and GVWR, but also more expensive to repair. Then the 2000's. Same story, incrementally more advanced. 4 speed trannies instead of 3 speed, a lot more HP and torque numbers. Then the 2010's, BIG increases in HP, torque, payload and GVWR. Trannies are now 6 speed, mileage has improved to 50-100 percent over my trucks from the 70's. Massively different than their earlier predecessors. An F150 can now safely carry 3,200 pounds of payload. My 77 one ton could not carry 2,200 without being over its GVW...

So what's all this mean? Pay close attention to the payload and GVWR of your choices. My 77 one ton had a lot of suspension components replaced due to age and overwork. Yes they are costlier than 3/4 ton trucks. My mechanic said they cost more because there are fewer 1 tons, and some of the parts are more robust. Take the front drag link... About 30 percent beefier (from what I remember) and about twice the price.

You are on the right track to stick with a minimum of a 250/2500. If you are getting a 10 foot camper or larger, get a dually. The suspension upgrades needed to safely haul those big campers on a SRW are already covered by the dual wheels. Read the RV forums and truck forums if you don't think so. If you go down forest service roads and want to keep your fenders, then plan on spending money to upgrade that 250/2500 suspension. Just remember that air bags and helper springs don't increase the carrying capacity of the rear axle, rims and tires or help you stop quicker.

Will you find that clean one owner 78-88 truck? You could, like the one poster said, so keep cash handy and be willing to tick off your checklist then buy it. At the depreciated prices that 20-28 year old trucks are at (unless substantially rebuilt), you aren't losing a lot if you "overpay". The right truck is worth it.

dusty