I think I found my baby

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cinemaphonic

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I'm going to look at this 96' 2500 Ram Conversion van High Top on Sunday. He's ask $3750 OBO. I think I can get him to $3300-3500.

Owner says: new tires, all electrics and air work, no body rust or damage at all. 100K Miles. It starts and runs great but needs a new battery as one of the cells is dead (he said he'd lower the price for this cost). Said his grandparents were the original owners, and that they brought it up to 30K, then he and his wife brought it up to 100K using it for vacations. I think he stores it in the winter, which is why it has no body rust.

It's a beauty and I'm trying to stop that little voice in my head that's been telling me, "This is the one." But I did have one of those love at first sight moments when I first saw the ad.
 
If he thinks it's got a dead cell in the starter battery, he'll probably have to jump start it.

Take a digital multimeter with you and once he gets it running slap it on the battery and check the voltage.

If you aren't seeing 13 volts or higher with the engine running, it ain't a battery problem, it's a charging system problem - maybe the alternator, maybe the engine control module (which replaced a separate voltage regulator ) either way, it's gonna cost a lot more money to fix than just replacing the battery would.

Good luck with it!

Regards
John
 
Optimistic Paranoid said:
If you aren't seeing 13 volts or higher with the engine running, it ain't a battery problem, it's a charging system problem - maybe the alternator, maybe the engine control module (which replaced a separate voltage regulator ) either way, it's gonna cost a lot more money to fix than just replacing the battery would.

Thank you for that info. I'm really hoping I can get a mechanic out there with me when I go to see it, but he lives in farm country so it might be kinda hard.

Would you say that if what you're saying is true that this would be a bad deal/price for this van? I'm planning on doing He says he and his grandfather were both mechanics and did regular upkeep on the van, etc. He even said that the body is in such good shape that the original white paint on the under carriage is still there. But who knows...
 
It'd most likely just the battery but follow Optimostic Paranoids advice!! If it doesn't come up to 13 volts it will cost at least $300 for repair, probably a new alternator Have him drop the price for that.

The price seems high for a 1996 but the condition and low mileage might make it worth it. Try to get it for less.
Bob
 
If the cell in the battery is bad, wouldn't it NOT come up to 13 volts after charging? I am confused here.
I had a bad motorcycle battery once with a dead cell. It could NOT reach proper voltage after charging. Replacing the battery fixed the problem.
 
LeeRevell said:
If the cell in the battery is bad, wouldn't it NOT come up to 13 volts after charging? I am confused here.
I had a bad motorcycle battery once with a dead cell. It could NOT reach proper voltage after charging. Replacing the battery fixed the problem.

We are not talking about checking the battery after charging. We are talking about checking the charging circuit with the engine running. A good charging circuit will ALWAYS put out 13 to 14 volts, regardless of the battery condition.

You are right about the battery. We had a car once with a bad cell. It would not read higher than 10 point something volts when the engine wasn't running.

Regards
John
 
I always wonder why someone trying to sell a $4K vehicle just doesn't go ahead and spend $100 on a new battery so it would be easier to sell??
 
slow2day said:
I always wonder why someone trying to sell a $4K vehicle just doesn't go ahead and spend $100 on a new battery so it would be easier to sell??

Probably a combination of:

Laziness
Not being in a REAL hurry to sell it
An assumption that, sooner or later, someone will buy it the way it is for the price you want

Regards
John
 
On my way to go look at it. I have a mechanic coming with, so we'll see what happens. This is kinda scary but I'm ready for it.

I agree that the price is kind of high, but if it's in as good of condition as he says it is, I think it might be worth it. I'm not too mechanically inclined (yet) so reliability is really key to me right now.

He said on the phone that $3500 is his bottom line, but that cash talks. Here goes nothing.
 
Good to hear that you're taking a mechanic with ya!!


Good Luck!!! We're all hoping & praying for yas!!
 
An old trick I learned years ago, and it still works, is take cash and flash it in front of the seller. If he touches it, he will sell the vehicle for your price every time. People don't want to give up cash. Even it he doesn't touch it, you will probably get the vehicle at your price anyway.
 
I did it. Got it registered today and battery replaced and it runs like a dream. It is going to need some front end work eventually, but I'm not planning on actually living in it for about 6 months so I have time to save and get it all configured inside.

It turns out that the guy's grandpa who owned it before got it insulated, which is pretty cool. But how can I know if the insulation is good enough or if I'll need to do some of my own?

Also, could I theoretically just insulate on top of what's there without having to rip the walls off? If anyone has any ideas that would be ideal in terms of cost, time and resale value.
 
Sounds like you got a nice one. Congrats. If it's a conversion van with big windows and they weren't covered with insulation, you will have a lot of heat loss through the glass.
 
Congratulations!

As far as checking the current insulation, were it mine, I'd be trying to find a small section of wall that I could remove without too much work, just to see what's back there.

But if it looked to be a major project, I'd probably just skip the hassle and try living in it.

Regards
John


cinemaphonic said:
I did it. Got it registered today and battery replaced and it runs like a dream. It is going to need some front end work eventually, but I'm not planning on actually living in it for about 6 months so I have time to save and get it all configured inside.

If at all possible, I would do all of the mechanical repairs BEFORE starting on the live in it conversion work. You never know, once your mechanic starts really digging into it, he may find something horribly wrong that was missed on the initial inspection, something so bad you need to rethink the viability of the project. God forbid.

On the other hand, if you need to live in it in order to save enough money to do the mechanical repairs, well, that would be a valid reason to ignore my excellent advice in the above paragraph.

Anyway, Good Luck!

Regards
John
 

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