I GOT A BREVILLE SMART OVEN AIR !!!! & power question

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RoadtripsAndCampfires

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i watched a couple days worth of everything I could about air fryers and small ovens.  If you are looking for a small RV electric oven and don't mind the investment price watch the youtubes on this baby.  Slow cooks, roasts, bakes, broils, toasts, air frys, proofs bread, and dehydrates.  

I have not yet had a chance to use it, just got the trays washed and all and need to read the book.  But I'll let you know.  Note that there are two Breville Smart Ovens, one is called Air and one is called Pro.  Oh, and it takes standard oven size pans.

Now, it's heavy but if you remove the trays and pans before moving it it isn't that bad.  It does take up a hefty amount of room and does need about 4" on all sides.  I have it figured out I think but I had to brainstorm hard.  I am again so glad I did not make anything permanent until we finished the entire layout and list of what we want inside.

SO AT 1800 WATTS DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW MUCH BATTERY/SOLAR POWER FOR JUST THIS ONE ITEM IF I RUN IT 2 HOURS A DAY??

It will have a dedicated circuit breaker.
 
dang 1800 watts for 2 hours a day is a huge draw. someone please do the math, I don't have my calculator handy. just off the top of my head I think it's around 360aH not counting losses. highdesertranger
 
See if this is right. 1800 watts is 15 amps @120 volts AC x 2 hours = 30 AH's + losses. Minimum 5% loss x 2 conversions = 33AH's
 
That is the equivalent of the usable power in my three 157 pound 8-D batteries or six 6 volt batteries. Most are happy to run that type of load for minutes. (microwave/hair dryer)
 
1800 watts is 15 amps @120 volts AC
That's 150 amps @ 12 volts dc.
x 2 hours = 300 ah
+ losses = a lot
at least 315 ah

or what Jim said.
 
Thanks, I didn't do the second conversion, 30 seemed really low.
 
RoadtripsAndCampfires said:
SO AT 1800 WATTS DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW MUCH BATTERY/SOLAR POWER FOR JUST THIS ONE ITEM IF I RUN IT 2 HOURS A DAY??

It will have a dedicated circuit breaker.

The 1800 watts is huge.  However, to cook for two hours doesn't have the heater on for 2 hours.  After it gets up to the proper temperature the thermostat turns it on and off to maintain the temperature.  

If you use an efficient inverter generator during the time the heater element is off the gasoline consumption and noise level will drop considerably.
 
Sorry to tell you this, but I had one in my original van plan.  It's not the amount of energy used that was the big problem but the prolonged draw at high wattage that gets you.  If you're not running lithium batteries your voltage is very likely to drop temporarily to the point where your inverter starts to scream and eventually shuts down not because the draw is too many watts for the inverter but because the batteries it's drawing from have their voltage drop too low.  I got rid of my Breville and replaced it with a microwave that I could run at 40% for 2.5 x the normal cooking time at 100%.  That allowed the voltage time to recover as the oven cycled on and off in periods that were seconds, not minutes.  Electric ovens just suck electricity until they get up to the set heat and that will often be too long for your batteries to handle at one time.  

I now have purchased and installed a Breville oven again and it works fine for me now that I have LITHIUM batteries because they don't have the voltage drop problem.  

It's a great oven, but it didn't work well for me with traditional deep discharge batteries.

Joanne

P.S.: even with a powerful sprinter inverter charging the batteries while driving I couldn't bake a potato in that oven without the inverter screaming and often shutting down.
 
So far it looks like I can use it when I am hooked up to electricity.

I am thinking 2 hours the entire day, not at once. So cut that to approximately 1 hr. at a time between battery charges.

Next, I don't yet have my solar or batteries, I am now making my notes as to what I will run, # of dedicated and other plugs needed and the total watts and estimated use times for electrical devices coming with.

Besides the solar which we will have before we operate this thing we do have the Honda 2000i - sweet. So perhaps I can figure out some generator recharge assistance half way through the day if I need it?

And, because this trip is 50 years in the planning stage we have a red propane Camp Chef Oven we can also use which is zero battery drain. We bought that about 8 years ago or so. Lightly used so a lot of life in it and it has a single burner and a side grill. It's on wheels to be used inside or outside and the propane pipes and system was put in by a shop that does lunch trucks. On a hot day it is always nice to cook outside and keep the camper trailer cool.

So from your answers I am going to figure out my list of electrical usage and then I'll see if it makes sense to you all.
 
kygreg said:
See if this is right. 1800 watts is 15 amps @120 volts AC x 2 hours = 30 AH's + losses. Minimum 5% loss x 2 conversions = 33AH's

jimindenver said:
That is the equivalent of the usable power in my three 157 pound 8-D batteries or six 6 volt batteries. Most are happy to run that type of load for minutes. (microwave/hair dryer)
Jim, I need to get AGM batteries because they will be inside the trailer - there are no bays.  I will box them and vent them via holes to the outside.  What kind of set up do you think I should get re the # of batteries and size?  Any brands you recommend?
 
Lifelines are the cream of the crop when it comes to AGM's and boy are they proud of them. Would I suggest that someone spend the cash on them as their first bank while not really knowing what they want or need? No Everyday I deal with people that simply use more power than their batteries can provide and/or their solar can replace.

There are lessor AGM's with lower price points that will fill the requirement you mention. That does not mean that a set of them that will run your oven for a few hours are going to be cheap though. 300 amp hours is 6 UB12100 100 Ah agm batteries at $169 each. 6 Vmax 235 Ah 6 volts at $559 a set, There are other options but to narrow down just what you need means that you understand what you need powerwise first.

Just so that you know, my three Lifeline 8-D's weigh 471 pounds. 6 Vmax 6 volts weigh 450 pounds. The cargo capacity of your vehicle needs to be considered.

As far as Lithium being able to handle the load goes. Many Lithium batteries have a draw limit of 100 amps, some 150. Try to run that oven on a single Lithium battery with a 100 Amp limit and it will shut off no matter what the voltage is. Even one limited to 150 amps may shut down because 150 amps is the requirement of the oven and losses to the inverter will push it beyond the limit, shutting down the battery. This is a consideration because while there are 300 Ah Lithium batteries out there, 3 100 Ah batteries will run a larger load.

So how much room do you have for batteries? How much can you afford and how much weight can you carry? These things might become deciding factors as much as how much power you need will.
 
Thank you so much for the reply, Jim.

I just finished the layout and have started the list of electrical. Everything is being weighed, I am balancing the weight also. What is and is not going keeps changing as I decide I need to whittle down more, it's an ongoing process that is almost at the end. There are a lot of optionals depending upon how the weight tallies. For example, the two cots for beds are out as of a week ago and are now going to be a custom full size bed and I knew the cots were 38 pounds each plus the wood base but now I have to wait and see the weight of the bed frame and mattess. The battery bank will go over the axle under the full size bed. They have to be AGMs because of that.

We kept the weight of the build as low as possible but don't yet have the tally as things are still going in, so we can't verify the CCC but we are pretty sure we are going to be ok as we kept the build light so we could carry more. It is dual axle.

NEXT QUESTION: What do I need to have in order to run this oven when I am hooked into electrical and not run it off the solar/battery system? We periodically stay at hookups and plan to say, cook a week's worth of staples over 3 days of staying with hookups. We have the 3-way fridge so that will keep frozen and fresh. I've never tried to run much more than a stereo and small air conditioner when hooked up in the past.

Christine
 
Maybe you should be asking about solar ovens :) There is a easier option to using the power of the sun for baking and it happens before the solar power gets converted for storage in a battery.
 
True and I can cook most anything in one of my solar ovens/cookers that you can in a regular oven as long as it is sunny.
 
I did a long reply to this thread but it got lost and not posted so I will retry.

No solar, I like setting temp and knowing cook time. Have propane oven/stovetop/grill for boondocking and will have this electric oven for hookup times. We will add 50 amp service for that. We periodically get hookups to relax more, kind of a vacation while we are taking our vacation. Usually showers, laundry, etc. come with the hookup places so it is kind of a re-boot time and we plan to cook some of our more time consuming dishes when having the electric ability and take advantage of the freezer.

I found some videos explaining the needs for the 50 amp so we will likely set it up but not make the connections and take it to a local shop to have them actually make the connections just so I can sleep at night.

I look at the propane and electric costs as way less than what they are if I'm payng from home. So while free is great there are times we just don't mind. I'd have to spend about $40 per night every night to equal what i now pay monthly so every once in a while a few paid campsites are ok. Besides, if I can plug in the massage/vibrating mat for my body while the hydrocolator for my neck is heating up and the A/C is running on a hot day it just might make me someone others would want to be around later that evening.
 

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