I bought a Meanwell RSP-750-15

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Mobilesport

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I bought a Meanwell RSP-750-15 and I have some questions. 

First of all
No mounting brackets? 
No power cord? Why?
No voltmeter ?
No power switch ? Why


There was a Rsp-750-15 and a RSP-750-12  ,,,,, did I buy the right one or shoud've I bought the 12 volt version?

Thanks
 
Also I'm thinking to get this thing to work I'll need to 

1 : Run my positive and negative 4 gage battery cables from batteries to the Meanwells output
2 : hook 14 gage  green  wire
                14 gage black wire
                 14 gage white wire 
                  For a power cord
3 :  cut the orange wire that shorts pin 13 to 14  ,,,,,,add wire and a switch.
Will doing these three things get it working or is there more to it then that?
Thanks
 
I'm not understanding what you're trying to do with that...turn it into a battery charger for shore power? Wouldn't an actual charger make more sense?

And if you want to power your 12v accessories/appliances when on shore power, I'd think you'd want the 12v one?

It sure looks like more of an industrial or lab component...probably why it didn't come with anything.

All I could tell about the pin shorts was that "certain" units come pre-shorted in few spots, but heck if I could see if that applied to the one you have. Hopefully it came with unit-specific instructions...
 
BradKW said:
I'm not understanding what you're trying to do with that...turn it into a battery charger for shore power? Wouldn't an actual charger make more sense?

And if you want to power your 12v accessories/appliances when on shore power, I'd think you'd want the 12v one?

It sure looks like more of an industrial or lab component...probably why it didn't come with anything.

All I could tell about the pin shorts was that "certain" units come pre-shorted in few spots, but heck if I could see if that applied to the one you have. Hopefully it came with unit-specific instructions...
It has a adjustable voltage output ,, I'm going to set the output to 14.8 volts and then charge my batteries with it while Boondocking.
It will be powered by a Honda 2000i Genset.
 
I thought you'd want a decent "smart" charger, since batteries don't charge in a linear fashion, and good ones can compensate for temperature of batteries. Plus you'd get float and equalize features...
 
Brad I think you can do it all with the Meanwell but you must do it manually. actually you would get better results with the Meanwell if you stay on top of it. I believe SternWake uses one of these. highdesertranger
 
Brad, the meanwell power supplies will basically allow the person charging batteries to maximize battery charging int he time the generator is running, for much less money than a programmable high amp charging source like xantrax truecharge

3 or 4 stage smart chargers/ converters seek a fixed voltage and only hold it for a certain timespan. this timespan is inadequate 99% of the time.

The meanwell will allow the user to set absorption voltage and it will ramp upto full power/ full output until battery voltage gets very near the preset voltage chosen, then the voltage will remain there and amperage will taper.  this is the absorption limit of the battery and a battery can be charged no faster without increasing voltage further, which one should not do..

No these do not come with power cords, they are meant to be installed in sources requiring 13 to 18 volts where one would not want 6 feet of powercord floating around.  They are designed like a house outlet with romex going right to the 3 terminals.

Not sure about the pin jumping on the rps 750-15 model, Will look into it.  I do not bother with the extra features on mine such as compensating for voltage drop on the lines.

NO voltmeter, no ammeter, these are brute force chargers, likely as capable or more so than the wheeled chargers at mechanics shops, but with the ability to fine tune end voltage.

Regular converters require the end user install the DC wiring output, these meanwells require the AC side be provided too.

I cut off an old HD powerstrips 14 awg cord, but a 12awg  power tool replacement cord would be better.

the meanwell rsp series is also power factor corrected, meaning they use the AC electricity more efficiently, which might  mean less gas burned in the generator. for the same or more battery recharging occuring.

My rsp-500-15 has a voltage range from 13.12 to 19.23v, much wider than the spec sheet claims.  trojan now moved their recommended voltage to 16.2v.  The meanwell has no issue seeking and holding this voltage as long as the user decides.  

there are threaded insert all over the body of my meanwell.  For metric screws, i forget which size. I took mine into ACE hardware and found the screws which would thread into these threaded receptacles, and made my own mounting feet and also on the bottom used aluminum screen edging to attach the power cords and DC outputs to take all stress off of receptacles on meanwell, as mine is mounted on my electrical cabinet door.

Readers can peruse my thread on my Meanwell rsp-500-15.  This unit can output 40 amps all day long at any voltage between 13.12 and 19.23 as I choose.  I added more ventilation and heatsinking and a better voltage adjusting potentiometer to make it the world's best manual 40 amp battery charger. the rsp-500-12 would not allow the 16+ volts required for equalization and perhaps not the 14.8v absorption voltage either.

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-My-newest-electrical-toy?highlight=My+newest+electrical+toy

I brought up the possibility of using the Meanwell rps-750-15 as Mobilesport wants to max out his generator and battery charging in the time he decided to run the generator.  Setting a 14.8 or higher voltage allows this, without having to resort to trickery or having an automatic charging source prematurely drop charging voltage, slowing charging greatly while still burning gas in the generator.

I plug in my meanwell to AC,  then adjust DC voltage unloaded, then connect 45 amp anderson powerpole to a direct feed to battery, and Boom instant 40 amps when the battery is depleted, and 40 amps until battery voltage climbs to near what I set it at unloaded. It does get hot at maximum output.

If one plugs in the meanwell, sets the voltage then puts an alligator clamp on a battery terminal, there might be a spark, but one could also put the clamps on the battery first, then plug in the Meanwell and in a second it will start outputting full current.

I'd caution against starting and stopping it quickly on depleted batteries.  Could be cumulatively damaging as it would be to any converter or automatic charger.

They make 24 and 36 and 48 volt versions too Brad.

Knowing how many amps are flowing is great.  When amps taper to a certain level at absorption voltage, one can infer their batteries are at 80+%.

Many inexpensive ammeters can handle 60 amps.  this one has a built in voltmeter.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multime...14&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=drok+100+amp+ammeter

Shop around.

i use a GTpower wattmeter  with 8awg leads on my 40 amp rsp-500-15 to count amps voltage watts AH and WH and some other figures, but this wattmeter cannot handle the output of the rsp-750-15 model

If one wanted to seem more than the amps but something that coule count KWH Something like this could count that figure has produced:

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-1..._SR160,160_&psc=1&refRID=SHCWDJWYWTP9F5D1MBA7

I do not own this meanwell 750 watt model ot the link just above but I did set up the Drok Ammeter/ voltmeter combo on another project and it read close enough until low amperage below 1.5 amps, but at 40 amps it was accurate enough

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-1..._SR160,160_&psc=1&refRID=SHCWDJWYWTP9F5D1MBA7

I have charged my 90Ah northstar AGM with 40 meanwell amsp and 25 schumacher amps at the same time, but I have to bump meanwell voltage to 15.3v to keep it at both at maximum output until battery voltage measured on terminals climbs to 14.4 to 14.7v.
 
Interesting. Been reading through the old thread to understand this better. My inverter (which arrived today :D ) is not a charger, so I need one.

I'm tempted to buy one of these Meanwell units as well, but I have one big concern: human error. It sounds like this could be perfectly capable of cooking you batteries if set to bulk voltage and left unattended and forgotten?

If so, I'd probably be better off with a "battery undercharger" as you called it. I go to the store for screws and end up back at the job with 5 things that aren't screws all the time. I just don't trust my memory for something that critical that needs to be repeated over and over...
 
BradKW said:
I just don't trust my memory for something that critical that needs to be repeated over and over...

Pilots don't trust their memories for pre-flight checks either.

Written check list, along with an alarm clock or some sort of timer app for your cell phone . . .
 
It's good to know your limitations, and I probably saved many lives by not being a pilot... ;)
 
Human error is certainly a factor to consider.


i have left mine at absorption voltage then fell asleep overnight a few times.  My AGM just stops accepting current, well measurable by me current, as it is somewhere down below 0.05amps to hold 14.46v. it does not 'appear' to have been damaged as it still performs impressively well.


As long as it is not days, but merely hours held at absorption voltage longer than required, it could be argued the extended absorption cycle by forgetting to reduce voltage or unplug, helps dissolve sulfation.


Here is a solution:
https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-F...04354&sr=8-1&keywords=intermatic+6+hour+timer

I planned on this but never bothered.

Automatic chargers have their place, but that place is not in my van.  With Smart chargers, one has to be smarter than them if they want better than good battery life in deep cycle applications.

Time based absorption cycles are merely guessing.  Amperage based absorption cycle termination does not take into account loads on DC system while charger is running.
The correct time at absorption voltage is the key to maximizing battery longevity and performance during that lifespan, and even the programmable high$$ chargers need to be programmed correctly and updated as the batteries age and their needs become different.

These meanwells can cover all the battery charging needs, they just need a human to tell them what to do and how long to do it, and they are very compact, and can provide a lot of current for not that much money.

We can argue the merits of manual vs automatic, but in the end is is personal choice.
 
That timer looks like a really good idea, I think I'll go ahead and order both...
 
BradKW said:
That timer looks like a really good idea, I think I'll go ahead and order both...

Imo  , I don't think you need a timer if you're powering the charger from a generator .
 
Mobilesport said:
Imo  , I don't think you need a timer if you're powering the charger from a generator .

True, but I also see it getting as much or more use from being plugged into shore power, at least as long as I remain in key west...
 
I am curious why wouldn't you need a timer if running off a genny. the Hondas and Yamahas will run all day and into the night on one filling. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
I am curious why wouldn't you need a timer if running off a genny. the Hondas and Yamahas will run all day and into the night on one filling. highdesertranger

My thought was that despite being forgetful at times, I don't think I'd go to work and not realize the genny was running. Certainly could fall asleep tho. Timer just looks like a simple addition and a solid bet.
 
thanks Brad but my question was more for Mobilesport who was implying you would not need a timer if running off a genny. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
thanks Brad but my question was more for Mobilesport who was implying you would not need a timer if running off a genny.  highdesertranger
 I had a similar battery charger and I was powering it from my Honda , It seemed like I was always around my system , sometimes I might fire it up and then go to work and leave It running out in the parking lot , 4 hours later I would go out to lunch and shut it down ,  Generally I  have a habit of being around my generator while its running and before I start charging I have a idea as to how long I'm going to let it run , usually 1hour , 2 hour , 3 hour or four hours , all depends on what they need ., 
I don't use shore power but if you did I could see you very easily forgetting that its running and leaving for a extended amount of time , if you have a tendency to leave your generator unattended for long periods of time I agree you would need a timer .
As for Honda run times , Check out my Youtube video of my extremely modified Honda 2000i genset  , bunch of other van mods too
 
I'd be interested to know just how many amps the 750 watt model can really do.

My 500 watt model does 600 flat out, and it gets hot doing this, which is why I added more ventilation and heatsinking on the case exterior opposite the transistors.

I have to repeat that I think these Switching adjustable voltage power supplies, when asked to run flat out until the batteries cannot accept their the power supply's full output, is very hard on them, and one should really take some steps to increase airflow in a way that can assist the units fans, which blow outwards from the backside.

This will greatly extend longevity and  durability of these units, and really any electronics which can get super hot.

Dust build up is also a concern:

20160221_205518_zpsdu9yqof5.jpg


20160221_210004_zps6en0mady.jpg


20160221_210055_zpst9dnhom3.jpg


Removing the lid on my rsp-500-15 is 5 screws.
 
For me the colder it is outside the more I have to charge my batteries  because my furnace runs the batteries down overnight   , so hopefully this means I'm not as hard on the charger , that fan and heat sink you have there is a good idea , I'm thinking of doing something similar for the summer heat   ,  I'll probably use a small box fan that runs off of 110v to cool the meanwell.
Thanks for all the info on the Meanwell
 
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