High output alternator

[Scout]

I have a choice to install a 150 amp or 220 amp alternator. These are both factory options so im not worried about wires getting burned up.The cost for the 220 is not much more than the 150.I would be using it to charge my house batteries along with solar. Possibly using only the alternator for awhile until i get solar.im debating on getting rid of my canoe becuase it will block the solar but if im charging while im driving that should solve that problem. I also dont think my loads are going to be very high but who knows until i try it. Ive been reading and if i remember right the agm batteries like a higher charge rate.
I plan on getting my batteries from full river. Im not sure how many or what kind im going to speak to them and see what they suggest once i get my loads squared away.i know they will probably change so probably need extra. Which alternator would you go with? Im sure either would be fine but looking for opinions thanks

 

[John61CT]

The max output rating is pretty unimportant.

If alt charging really will be a significant charge source for your setup, big if!

Then you want a large-frame unit like Leece Neville, with lots of active cooling, serpentine belt and a pulley ratio set to output 75% of rating at 30% over normal idle.

Ideally externally regulated. Best is Balmar MC-614, Mark Grasser and Sterling, maybe ProMariner.

But first discuss how you think you'll be using the Alt. Are you actually driving many hours per day?

 

[John61CT]

FullRiver may be OK, but call these mfg see if you have local dealers to compare. Shipping can be very pricey on a big bank.

Odyssey
Lifeline
Northstar

Note Rolls / Surette now sells AGM too, likely very good quality but pricey.

 

[UptownSport]

There's likely wiring differences- Perhaps even fitment differences. Here's an example from the factory manual on my vehicle:
(see the 'fusible' link, et al are different gauges between the base and highline)




My suggestion would be to go to a pick 'n pull type salvage yard* and actually swap the two from one auto to another.

Don't know anything about solar, but those are both very high output alternators.
Usually factories group high output alternators with electric window defrosts, perhaps seat heaters.
Eventhough there's tons of electric blah blah blah on vehicles nowadays, that stuff takes little power relative to electric window defrost.
I was able to run my car off a tinyToyota forktruck alternator, somewhat successfully.
Don't ask.

I have seen vehicle with two alternators- Don't recall the application.


* aka Junkyard, LoL

 

[Weight]

OP is talking about factory options. They already mount up to engine. I would upgrade wires based on distance. You may have to make modifications to whatever regulator your brand uses. If I were upgrading, I would get the highest rating available.
If you have no money restraints, the above listed batteries are good quality but expensive. If i were on the west coast I would check Trojan Battery, but I am very close to Penn and shipping costs are high. I would buy Duracell made by East Penn, Deka. 1/2 the dollars but certainly not low quality. East Penn has a lot to recommend their products. John can afford the high price spread and has never looked into Duracell.

 

[Scout]

The max output rating is pretty unimportant.

If alt charging really will be a significant charge source for your setup, big if!

Then you want a large-frame unit like Leece Neville, with lots of active cooling,  serpentine belt and a pulley ratio set to output 75% of rating at 30% over normal idle.

Ideally externally regulated. Best is Balmar MC-614, Mark Grasser and Sterling,  maybe ProMariner.

But first discuss how you think you'll be using the Alt. Are you actually driving many hours per day?

I dont plan on driving many hours when i get fully set up. Maybe no more than 2 hours a day.i do plan on driving to quartzite for the rtr. Not this year maybe next and pick up my batteries. I should have solar by then. I can get by on one cigarette lighter if i have to.i did for 2 weeks.im trying to plan out for my future needs.im getting a new van and its one of the options.i know bigger isnt always better.

 

[Scout]

OP is talking about factory options. They already mount up to engine. I would upgrade wires based on distance. You may have to make modifications to whatever regulator your brand uses. If I were upgrading, I would get the highest rating available.
If you have no money restraints,  the above listed batteries are good quality but expensive. If i were on the west coast I would check Trojan Battery, but I am very close to Penn and shipping costs are high. I would buy Duracell made by East Penn, Deka. 1/2 the dollars but certainly not low quality. East Penn has a lot to recommend their products.  John can afford the high price spread and has never looked into Duracell.

Thanks i will check them out. Im in ohio so might be a good option if i dont want to wait to drive to quartzite.

 

[John61CT]

Flooded batteries are much better than AGM in most regards, and the Deka/Duracell fantastic value.

But you said you need AGM for the high CAR.

.

 

[John61CT]

Just know that it takes 4-7 hours to charge a lead bank if you want longevity you need to get to 100% full (most) every cycle.

Burning dino juice is only practical for the first hour or two while the batt accepts high amps, say to 80-85%.

You **need** solar (or shore power) for the very long tail, 3-6 hours at low amps.

Running a vehicle engine just to charge the battery is very expensive in both fuel and wear & tear, not to mention pollution.

A small inverter gennie would be cheaper and much more efficient.

Consider a propane conversion.

 

[Scout]

The max output rating is pretty unimportant.

If alt charging really will be a significant charge source for your setup, big if!

Then you want a large-frame unit like Leece Neville, with lots of active cooling,  serpentine belt and a pulley ratio set to output 75% of rating at 30% over normal idle.

Ideally externally regulated. Best is Balmar MC-614, Mark Grasser and Sterling,  maybe ProMariner.

But first discuss how you think you'll be using the Alt. Are you actually driving many hours per day?

Why is the max output unimportant? Am i wrong to think the higher output =less time of running the engine to get the same charge?

 

[Scout]

Flooded batteries are much better than AGM in most regards, and the Deka/Duracell fantastic value.

But you said you need AGM for the high CAR.

.

I dont necessarily need agm. Idk. I just like not having to worry about a flooded battery maintenance.

 

[John61CT]

> I dont necessarily need agm. Idk. I just like not having to worry about a flooded battery maintenance.

Then go flooded, much cheaper, last longer, don't need as much coddling.

Plus you can get accurate SoC readings with a hydrometer.

But low current acceptance rate, can't get faster charge out of a high amp charge source.

 

[Scout]

Just know that it takes 4-7 hours to charge a lead bank if you want longevity you need to get to 100% full (most) every cycle.

Burning dino juice is only practical for the first hour or two while the batt accepts high amps, say to 80-85%.

You **need** solar (or shore power) for the very long tail, 3-6 hours at low amps.

Running a vehicle engine just to charge the battery is very expensive in both fuel and wear & tear, not to mention pollution.

A small inverter gennie would be cheaper and much more efficient.

Consider a propane conversion.

I only plan on using only the alternator for a very short time until i get my solar and minimizing loads. I wont be full time until i get solar or shortly before. I guess what im getting at is will uograding to a 220 alternator really benefit me after the solar is installed? The cost is 75 dollars more and i dont think it can hurt to have more.i read somewhere that charging a battery bank wears on the alternator so thats one reason to justify an upgrade.

 

[John61CT]

> Why is the max output unimportant? Am i wrong to think the higher output =less time of running the engine to get the same charge?

1. Battery chemistry CAR determines how much current the bank will accept.

A high-CAR AGM 500AH bank will accept 200+A, but only when low SoC and then only for say 30-50 minutes.

Flooded only 60-100A.

2. Normal small-frame alts can only output rated amps for a few minutes before the electronics get overheated and protective measures drastically de-rate output.

The large-frame truck alts can output near rated power all day long.

Cooling is the biggest factor.

Also internal regulators are dumb, plus modern fuel-saving tech on many vehicles prevent proper charging of large house banks.

 

[John61CT]

> will upgrading to a 220 alternator really benefit me after the solar is installed? The cost is 75 dollars more

It won't make a difference to battery charging before or after.

It may help with carrying short-term heavy loads while driving, but I can't think of an example.

But if $75 is NBD for you then can't hurt, why not!

 

[MikeRuth]

If the difference is $75.00 and the vehicle is already designed for the HO alternator then get it period. No matter what you do in the future that HO unit will definitely last you longer than the 150A unit.

that would be my choice, solar or no solar.

 

[Gypsy Jane]

When I replaced the dead alternator in my motorhome, I went with the bigger one at the recommendation of my mechanic because of charging house batteries. Also in years of using them for motorhome house batteries and now as the battery for my van's solar, I have had no problems with the plain vanilla Wal-Mart deep cycle, which is maintenance free.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

 

[UptownSport]

OP is talking about factory options. They already mount up to engine. I would upgrade wires based on distance. You may have to make modifications to whatever regulator your brand uses. If I were upgrading, I would get the highest rating available.

Respectfully, So was i.
That's why i posted a page from a factory manual, to show wiring inside engine's harness is different.
The alternators may (likely) have a different 'frame', as John terms it. They may be different vendors. With different pulleys. Different connectors.

In short, they may not physically interchange easily.

An interceptor package on an old Plymouth this was certainly true.

That's why I'd suggest going to the junkyard or- better yet, listening to John.

 

[John61CT]

Also in years of using them for motorhome house batteries and now as the battery for my van's solar, I have had no problems with the plain vanilla Wal-Mart deep cycle, which is maintenance free.

You may not have problems, but that is not a good choice compared to proper deep cycling batts, whether sealed or FLA.

The cost per year is higher, and replacing more frequently is a PITA.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/deep_cycle_battery

 

[UptownSport]

And I should explain what a fusible link is;

The factory uses a short piece of thin wire spliced in the long wire between alternator output and battery.
How it works is simple; say the alternator fails catastrophically or wire becomes dead short to ground- That thin wire will burn in half.
It's a very, very crude fuse.
If you're a dummy (ahem) and let that charge wire ground while servicing alternator, and haven't disconnected the battery- It'll fail here too, LoL.
As you can see in factory manual photo in the first Uptown post, the smaller (base) alternator has a smaller fusible link- The base has lower output, so it doesn't need as large of wire to act as a fuse.

Most likely, if that bigger alternator fits, nothing would happen due to reasons John's outlined- because output would go over the original, or base alternator.
At worst, IF you were able to go far over output of original alternator, the fusible link would fail.
So you won't die or anything. But then you'd have to ask why you'd want a bigger alternator if you can't use it ...

Or, don't fix what isn't broken