Fuel system issue....
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highdesertranger
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"Any suggestions"
yes figure out the problem BEFORE you change the plug. have you done the spark test I asked you to do? it's free doesn't cost a dime.
highdesertranger
yes figure out the problem BEFORE you change the plug. have you done the spark test I asked you to do? it's free doesn't cost a dime.
highdesertranger
B and C
Well-known member
Since you are going to change the plugs, no matter what. I suggest you get a mirror and put it where you can look all the way around the plug. Sounds like there may be a rock or something stuck in the plug well to not allow the socket to seat fully.
Since you know it is not a fuel problem it makes sense to check for spark. Take one of the plugs you have already changed back out, ground it to the engine away from the spark plug hole while someone cranks the engine while shading it look for a nice blue spark ideally but any spark is a good sign. Let us know the results. Once you get it running you can deal with your new problem of the stuck spark plug which doesn't really matter if you don't have spark going to it. A bad spark plug works as well as a new spark plug when it is not getting spark!
highdesertranger
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bullfrog hahahahahaha, is that like even a broken clock is right 2 times a day. good one. highdesertranger
One of my most trusted mentors, a real old-timer, once shared this sage wisdom with me at a time I was highly frustrated and chasing a problem, "All you need to be is smarter than what you're working on. Mechanical objects are made from metal, and metal is made from refined dirt. So all you need to be is smarter than dirt..."
You will just need to visualize the base of the plug with a mirror or use your cellphone up close to take a picture so you can see what's going on in the recess. There has to be some reason the socket isn't getting purchase. Basically you've got a six-sided peg with a six-sided hole, everything should fit. The problem will be obvious once you visualize it... Did the silicone boot tear, could a piece still be on the porcelain or wedged down in there? Proper size socket? There could be other debris like B and C suggested. Blast some compressed air in there and see if that clears it.
Even without that plug changed, the engine should still start and run on the other 7 cylinders. What the others are saying is essentially you're doing maintenance before tackling the root problem.
As for sticking fuel pumps... Sticking is how the pump tells you it's done, used up, time to change it. If that were the case, I wouldn't delay a minute longer... if a mallet works to get it started, take it straight to the shop to get it changed out. I'd suggest changing it if you find metal fleck in the filter even before driveability symptoms present. Of course, the alternative is to wait and change it after you stall somewhere inconvenient, or get stranded, and then have it towed to the shop.
You will just need to visualize the base of the plug with a mirror or use your cellphone up close to take a picture so you can see what's going on in the recess. There has to be some reason the socket isn't getting purchase. Basically you've got a six-sided peg with a six-sided hole, everything should fit. The problem will be obvious once you visualize it... Did the silicone boot tear, could a piece still be on the porcelain or wedged down in there? Proper size socket? There could be other debris like B and C suggested. Blast some compressed air in there and see if that clears it.
Even without that plug changed, the engine should still start and run on the other 7 cylinders. What the others are saying is essentially you're doing maintenance before tackling the root problem.
As for sticking fuel pumps... Sticking is how the pump tells you it's done, used up, time to change it. If that were the case, I wouldn't delay a minute longer... if a mallet works to get it started, take it straight to the shop to get it changed out. I'd suggest changing it if you find metal fleck in the filter even before driveability symptoms present. Of course, the alternative is to wait and change it after you stall somewhere inconvenient, or get stranded, and then have it towed to the shop.
highdesertranger
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I wouldn't even worry about the stuck plug. get it running first. what if you need to pull that head? I bet you could get the plug out then. just saying. highdesertranger
highdesertranger
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LOL there is like a 9 minute you tube video of every time Oddball says that in the movie. highdesertranger
highdesertranger
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so you have spark and it will not fire off of quick start?
compression check time, unless do know how to see if it's sparking off the top of the compression stroke?
highdesertranger
compression check time, unless do know how to see if it's sparking off the top of the compression stroke?
highdesertranger
highdesertranger
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I am hesitant to tell someone how to do it but here's how we would go about it,
pull all the plugs so the engine turns over easy but will not start
put one plug in it's plug wire
ground plug
place finger over the hole of the plug you have grounded
you must be able to see the gap of the plug
click the engine over. this is done real fast you want the starter to turn over for a second no more
watch for the spark and feel for the compression
if the timing is way off it will be real obvious you will know right off
if it's close try to click it less the spark should happen at maximum compression(actually it's a little before but you won't be able to tell that)
is this the vehicle that the previous owner tried to change the plugs and never finished?
they might have got the firing order all messed up. make sure you keep track of what wire goes where, check how it's wire against the book.
the compression should blow your finger off the hole, if it doesn't you have issues.
you can also do this with a compress gauge but we found it easier and faster and more accurate with a finger.
if you are uncomfortable doing it that way don't do it, do a compression check.
highdesertranger
pull all the plugs so the engine turns over easy but will not start
put one plug in it's plug wire
ground plug
place finger over the hole of the plug you have grounded
you must be able to see the gap of the plug
click the engine over. this is done real fast you want the starter to turn over for a second no more
watch for the spark and feel for the compression
if the timing is way off it will be real obvious you will know right off
if it's close try to click it less the spark should happen at maximum compression(actually it's a little before but you won't be able to tell that)
is this the vehicle that the previous owner tried to change the plugs and never finished?
they might have got the firing order all messed up. make sure you keep track of what wire goes where, check how it's wire against the book.
the compression should blow your finger off the hole, if it doesn't you have issues.
you can also do this with a compress gauge but we found it easier and faster and more accurate with a finger.
if you are uncomfortable doing it that way don't do it, do a compression check.
highdesertranger
B and C
Well-known member
Probably timing chain at a minimum.
Edit to add. If this is the case, the next step is to pull a valve cover and see if the rockerams are moving the valves when you crank it.
Edit to add. If this is the case, the next step is to pull a valve cover and see if the rockerams are moving the valves when you crank it.
highdesertranger
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yeppers like B and C said the timing chain. pull the distributer cap and turn it over, does the rotor turn? and does it turn consistent with the motor or does it jump around? highdesertranger
B and C
Well-known member
Doh, been long enough, forgot about looking at the rotor.
Are you sure the motor is turning over and it is not just the starter spinning without engaging the flywheel to turn it over?
Thought I'd ask the unobvious, obvious question.
Are you sure the motor is turning over and it is not just the starter spinning without engaging the flywheel to turn it over?
Thought I'd ask the unobvious, obvious question.
