Frame Rust?

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Artsyguy

Well-known member
Joined
May 31, 2016
Messages
192
Reaction score
1
Location
Pittsburgh, PA USA
2e9d2c26480d4021b34fc2809fc87e9e.jpgThinking about pulling the trigger on this 2012 Chev Express 2500.  Van looks really good ONLINE.  Has 55K miles. One owner, Ohio. This picture has me alarmed.  Is it rust?  Are they showing a problem, or proud of how good it looks underneath?  Carafax shows very good maintenance records.  Thinking of looking at it this weekend though it is an easy 70-80mi drive each way.
Any opinions on this frame?
Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • 2e9d2c26480d4021b34fc2809fc87e9e.jpg
    2e9d2c26480d4021b34fc2809fc87e9e.jpg
    65.5 KB · Views: 51
that part of the frame looks fine lite surface rust but crawl underneath and do a complete inspection. you need to start worrying about rust when it starts scaling. highdesertranger
 
are you mechanical, how long are you going to keep it, ect.ect. the more info the better the answer
 
As HDR said, light surface rust. Probably more or less normal for any 5 year old vehicle that hasn't spent it's life in a dry desert.  It will of course continue to spread and the frame will be ruined in another 20 or 30 years.
 
I don't think this is "that bad" ...yet.  It needs to be tended to like, right now, with some Rust-Oleum or POR-15, but it appears structurally sound, and the rust only seems to have damaged the finish of the frame so-far - that's what I'd guess from the pics anyway.  Man, Oh is hard on a car chassis, ain't it.  I wish you luck with it, Cotton
 
I've 1994 Chevy Truck. In the past (not sure about now) GM used a black oily waxy substance on the frame instead of paint. Over time, rather quickly, this stuff came off (undercarriage car washes). Where it didn't come off dirt stuck. I spent years under my truck with assorted wire brushes removing this stuff and applying paint like products. Too much effort...

What I found that works better than all of that is Fluid Film. When you put in on it stays wet but drys a little to a waxy shine. It penetrates and gets under lite rust. Also, It flows well into sheet metal seams (like fender wells and doors) and rubber (like bushings). It has a high flash point. I use it on some engine components like the water pump (not exhaust) which loves to rust.

I buy it in aerosol cans (by the case) and apply it yearly. It collects dust, like the original GM product, but can be washed off with a pressure washer. So far, I just add another coat and don't worry about the dust. I gave up removing the original GM waxy film and just spray this on top.

I have read that in the really old days service stations used to spray used oil on the frames of cars for anti-corrosion. I've notied that where there's oil, there's no rust. Anyways, that van looks like a good candidate for Fluid Film.

Why you have to keep on your GM frame:
http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f22/why-does-gm-wax-dip-truck-frames-39112/
http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f22/wax-coated-frames-79626/

Review:


I think you can find the original GM product in a spray can if you look around (not my choice). Again, I'm not certain GM is still doing this wax dipping corrosion treatment. After years of fighting rust with paint I'm slightly against paint if it has to be applied on top of the GM treatment. And, I think the GM process is good if they just told us how to take care of it. The van looks like, perhaps, the corrosion treatment washed off.
 
Another observation. The van has a good maintenance record (per your statements). If the owner was diligent about washing road salts off the frame, he (she) may have unwittingly washed off the anti-corrosion treatment. Given the GM Nox Rust (?) type treatment. It's better to wash the undercarriage ONLY when you're going to apply a touch-up treatment.
 
I think you guys are full of sh!t.  My Minnesota based 2012 3/4T has more rust on the frame than that.  Unless I am missing something in the picture the body will rust and fall apart before that frame is compromised.  My trucks are worn out before frame rust is an issue.

 -- Spiff
 
The Carfax, you were looking at rust problems that indicate worse problems:
Has it been in states with a lot of moisture?
Flood damage, like a hurricaine Sandy?
Any indication the vehicle was sitting for years?
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
I think you guys are full of sh!t.  My Minnesota based 2012 3/4T has more rust on the frame than that.  Unless I am missing something in the picture the body will rust and fall apart before that frame is compromised.  My trucks are worn out before frame rust is an issue.

 -- Spiff

Yeah buddy, don't worry about sounding rude, just tell us what you think next time, huh.  ;)  I like to tinker and fix things especially if I can do so before they become a problem.  I'm the kind of guy that hopes that I'll never have to buy another vehicle  - kinda like the old saying about if you always keep a spare handle and head, you'll never have to buy another axe.  And I guess it might be a bit foolish, but I just always assume most people are interested in maximum longevity.  See, rust is a cancer, and while I understand that not all cars can be Texas cars, I don't mind sharing tips on how to get more out of that rolling investment in hopes that things will never get "terminal."  Just my 2¢.  Now you have a good one.  Cotton
 
Thanks all for the comments! I decided to go with a newer van. Just purchased a Chevy 2015 Express 2500 with only 22K miles on it. I think here in Pittsburgh, bodies probably don't last as long as the frame. In any event, I'll keep mine as clean as I can during the winter. Can't wait to get started building this out!!! I'm sure I'll be a posting maniac here over the next few months with questions. Goal is to have it ready for first race of the season, Mid Ohio Vintage in late June!
 
You made a good choice getting the 15'.  The motor and tranny  are good, plus the cleaner undercarriage.  Did you get the 4.8?  I was surprised that they had dropped the 5.3 in the vans... must have been dropped prior to 2012.

[font=Roboto, sans-serif]"The engine choices available on the Express 2500 should fit most needs. A Vortec 4.8 liter V8 engine is standard and delivers 279 horsepower and 294 lb-ft of torque. With this setup, the Express 2500 can tow up to 7,400 pounds as a cargo van and 6,700 pounds as a passenger van (allowing for the higher weight of a fully equipped interior). Next is a 6.0-liter flex-fuel V8 good for 324 hp and 373 lb-ft of torque, which lets the Express 2500 tow up to 10,000 pounds in cargo form and up to 9,800 pounds as a passenger van." [/font]
 
Thanks for the encouragement! It still has the original factory warranty attached, so that is some comfort. My last van ownership experience was when I was 18 years old and had a 1966 Chevy van with a straight 6 in it. Had a lot of fun with it. The one I'm picking up tomorrow is definitely more powerful! And yes, it's equipped with the 4.8 V8. I'm not planning on towing anything with it. My biggest shock so far is that in PA it is considered a Class 3 weight vehicle and registration is 164.00 a year compared to the 64.00 bucks I pay for my cars! Guess you gotta pay to play…
 
Artsyguy said:
Thanks for the encouragement!  It still has the original factory warranty attached, so that is some comfort.  My last van ownership experience was when I was 18 years old and had a 1966 Chevy van with a straight 6 in it.  Had a lot of fun with it.  The one I'm picking up tomorrow is definitely more powerful! And yes, it's equipped with the 4.8 V8.  I'm not planning on towing anything with it.   My biggest shock so far is that in PA it is considered a Class 3 weight vehicle and registration is 164.00 a year compared to the 64.00 bucks I pay for my cars!  Guess you gotta pay to play…

Had you bought a window van it would likely be licensed as a "station wagon" and back down to what you paid previously however saving $100 a year shouldn't "drive" your decision...
 
Only part that looks bad is the bolt on the ear right behind the spring. Possibly where the body mounts to the frame.
 
Top