Found a TC....now what???

[rastaman]

Amazing....it was only two weeks ago, armed with some valued info from this forum and suggested links, that i started my quest for a TC. Well I found one, It is not all that pretty, needs some work and TLC...but it was well within my budget, and seeing that I will have 8 months to get it ready, before my planned trip out West, I should be well ahead of the game.<br><br>However there are some issues that will need to me addresed, and I am going to need plenty of help with ideas and directions....so please throw them at me. here is what I have.<br><br>The TC is a 'Star Lite'&nbsp; ( I think, I was so excited didnt pay particular attention). I am not sure what year but I would have to guess mid 80's to early 90's, judging from its decor.<br>I was unable to actually go inside as it was unstable but from looking through the door and from what the owner told me. It is evident it had (has) a roof leak front right corner. He has already removed that section of the ceiling and applied some kind of roof coating on the outside. He said the roof (metal) had numerous pin holes.<br>It has A/C, stove sink (condition unknown) and 'toilet room' no shower. I was unable to locate a&nbsp; fresh water holding tank, and I am assuming it has a SMALL black water tank benith the toilet, as the drain valve was located directly out side. It will need plenty of TLC on the interior ...but thats a breeze. my main concern is addressing the roof leaks. <br>I have been reading many accounts of owners who have completely removed and replaced roofs. I am not sure if this TC will merit that amount of effort and expense. I would much rather seal the roof from the outside, re frame the roof from inside and replace insulation and ceiling.<br>Questions: 1...what would be the best way to address this resealing......<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 2, is fiberglass an option, ( I have worked with it before and I am thinking it would be a perfect solution, a nice layer of 'gel and matting'...or am I unaware of any drawbacks.<br>I pick it up on Saturday and will post pics and have a better chance to asses the total damage.<br>thanks....

 

[ontheroadagain]

excuse my ignorance but what is a TC

 

[Seraphim]

TC = truck camper

 

[Seraphim]

First thing I'd do is start peeling away the inside to look for problems with leaks, wiring and plumbing. Find out where everything's is, and what works. Use Clorox and water mixture to sanitize inside of water tank and lines. Let the mixture set in the lines for a few days.hook up a battery and see what works electrically, and troubleshoot anything important that doesn't work ( and which you want to work). As you're disassembling stuff, you might see water marks on the walls, roof or frame which indicate others problems.

I've never sealed an rv roof, but it might be worth the expense and effort to use a rubber seal over the entire roof - just in case.

 

[Seraphim]

The problem with finding a roof leak is the water may be getting in at one end of the TC, then running down to the low point, pooling, and coming through the ceiling. The leak may not be near the observable ceiling damage.

 

[Seraphim]

Don't know about the fiberglass because I don't know whet your shell is made of. Got a photo or any other info?

 

[Seraphim]

Www.truckcampermagazine.com
Www.rv.net (truck camper forum)

 

[Guest]

I realize that I am new to this world, but I personally would ask myself, "Is it going to cost more to fix and customize than what I bought it for?"

 

[Willy]

&nbsp;Clean the roof well and roll on an elastomeric roof coating&nbsp; http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/i...te-RV-Roof-Coating/_/N-ntlo4/R-I2035559&nbsp; after you've possibly checked out underneath for rot and fixed it up. Quite often, the damage is more extensive than what's easily seen. It's generally easier to peel off the exterior, fix the damage, then put 'er back together.&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;The freshwater holding tank is probably at the front of the camper on the floor, and enclosed. Just look for the filler outside and trace the hose(s) from the inside. ..Willy.

 

[rastaman]

Seraphim, I am thinking of resealing the entire roof to make sure I dont miss any areas...what is this rubber roof I have been reading about??<br>I do intend to peel back some of the area near to the damage, I dont really want to gut it. as far as fixing things that dont work i am pretty good at that stuff. (I think, plus I know where to come if I get stumped).&nbsp; The area that I need the advise is as far as what is available out there and applicable to TC&nbsp; ie roof re coating.<br>The shell and roof is aluminum.&nbsp; I will have some pics as soon as I get it home.<br><br>Arikthewisetraveler.... At this point I am prepared to spend MORE that what I bought it for.. because I think from waht i have seen out there i would be still $$$ ahead. In the price range i wanted to be in it would be likely that anything I bought would need work....which even if I spent more there is always the possibility of hidden damage...with this the damage is visible....so I have no surprises...now it just a matter of which way to go.<br>Plus as suggested it will be a ideal spring board to the TC world, to see if its for me

 

[Willy]

&nbsp;You'd do well to replace the insulation, if it's that pink/yellow fibreglass stuff, with rigid foam and brace the front overhang. Rigid/spray foam is good for bracing, having some structural integrity. ..Willy.

 

[rastaman]

Willy... Do you think that elastomatic coating is a good enough fix...i have used it before on a RV as a preventative measure, and I know its to be applied in a cross pattern. I know taking the skin off would be best, however I am afraid of taking off that corner molding and opening up a can of worms. <br>Do you know if you can usually reuse the molding and rubber? If taken off carefully.<br>It already has the foam insulation. on the ceiling.<br>The PO has already braced the over hang with 1" angle iron on the outside starting where the jacks mount and going up and out.<br>There is no overhang window (good right?). Are you sure it would be easier peeling off the skin on the roof? my concerns are getting the screws out and also getting them to re-tighten (wood striped). and getting the molding to refit nice and snug,<br><br>thanks Willy<br>Serpahim...thanks for the links...keep them coming

 

[Willy]

&nbsp;Well, it would really help if you posted some pics. If buddy has already braced it with iron, that would probably point to problems which would be better fixed by tearing apart the overhang area and putting in new wood. The screws shouldn't strip out (unless there's rot or ya overtighten) and longer screws wouldn't hurt. ..Willy.

 

[rokguy]

<EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Hey rastaman,</SPAN></STRONG></EM><BR><EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">&nbsp;When I built my truck sleeper cab, the roof I built was from alloy sheet but still felt it would eventually leak so I used the old method of covering the roof with a exterior vinyl roof just like the old cars did. The white vinyl I acquired from my local&nbsp;marine upholsterer. Marine vinyl is apparently a bit tougher than the RV rubber roof material&nbsp;+ it comes in rolls&nbsp;9ft&nbsp;across.</SPAN></STRONG></EM><BR><EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">&nbsp;I just rolled it out (one piece) over the glue, worked out any air bubbles and heated it to form over the sides by 1/2 inch then screwed down the trim over that.</SPAN></STRONG></EM><BR><BR><EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Arikthewise, remember sometimes you can't alway afford to wait for the best quality up front but you may have enough cash to buy something with a bit of work now. Small amounts of money spent over time will get you on the road quicker that waiting for the perfect vehicle which may mot come along.</SPAN></STRONG></EM><BR><EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Geoff<BR><BR>Below is&nbsp;the roof done it's shiny just like the rest of the alloy cargosheet.</SPAN></STRONG></EM>

 

[rastaman]

Willy....I am scared mon, peeling back that skin just seems like it may open up a whole can of worms. I know that would be the right way to do it. I think what I may do is remove some interior wall covering in the area and see what it looks like. Is it possible to repair frame damage from inside. If it looks bad I just may have to skin it. <br>&nbsp;I will get pictures soon then maybe we can devise a plan of action.<br><br>rokguy, I have been directed to this product<br><br>&nbsp;&nbsp; http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-roofs/38-1416.htm<br><br>and it sounds like it my just do the trick.....your idea is interesting though.<br><br>

 

[Willy]

&nbsp;I've fixed campers both ways and, truly, you're better off peeling the skin than trying to fix from the interior. ..Willy.

 

[Seraphim]

Sorry to just get back rubber roof is just that - a thin rubber layer glued down on top and sealed, using a rubber sealer such as you mentioned above.

There are other reasons to dismantle the interior - to look for mold which can cause illness, replace old nasty insulation (fiberglass?), look for nests of secondary tenants . It's as much a matter of safety. There may be electrical shorts or other problems.

Take a day to carefully uninstall things. They can be reinstalled. Look at everything - take the time to write down the make and model of everything for future replacement or capability for future modifications.

You might also get some ideas for personalizing it.

Best to locate problems now, before you're on the road and have built something over top of the problem.

Fix any frame problems before you seal the roof.

Just my .02, but then I'm kind of anal about doing things 'the right way.' which, DW says, means MY way lol.

 

[Seraphim]

Willy probably has more experience with campers than I, but before peeling back the skin I 'd want to be comfortable with my ability to put it back. Leak less. I'm not sure if that would entail riveting, screws, or what. Perhaps Willy would elaborate on the method.

 

[Willy]

&nbsp;Like I said.. photos. How ya do things depends on the construction of the camper. I generally have the wood w. aluminum skin campers (though my current one has a fibreglass roof). The interior furnishings are often glued &amp; screwed/stapled, which makes for a strong construction.. and a bear to take apart without damage. All the interior paneling is glued &amp; nailed to the studs, which basically means the paneling is wrecked if one tries to remove it. The sheet aluminum exterior walls are pretty easy to peel off, being held down at the edges with staples at the seams. Check out:&nbsp; http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/forums/119-Hard-Side-Truck-Campers Some of the guys there have done repairs on TC's. For putting things back together, I like using new screws and a clear elastomeric roof patch compound that is dispensed with a caulking gun instead of that grey putty.&nbsp; ..Willy.

 

[Seraphim]

Thanks. That helps visualize the process and skill sets necessary.