Flooring

[Satellite5812]

So I'm back from my week long, three state test run, and my new home handles like a champ! Back in Oregon now, getting ready to start on the actual conversion. Going with the theory that you build a house from the ground up. I've started by removing all but the front two seats, and am now wondering about how to remove the seat mounts, or if that's even possible?

Is the preferred method to install a plywood floor on top of these & the original carpeting? That's about all I could glean from the threads.. wanting to keep the weight down this doesn't seem like the best option though. Apologies if this topic has already been covered; I've been searching and I couldn't find it. If so, links appreciated!

 

[Almost There]

When I had the extra seats removed in the Astro I had to take it to a body shop to have the seat bolts removed and the holes plugged for me. At least one of them, even they had to take a torch to, to get it out.

If you've got a buddy that can do either the top or the bottom side, you MIGHT be able to get them out yourself but sometimes you can't even find them from the underside. It was so worth the $50. I paid them to do it for me.

If you like the carpet that's in there and it's in decent shape you might be able to keep it. Once the seats are out you can see if the layout you've planned will have cabinets etc covering up where the indents are in the carpet from seats and the other stuff that's coming out.

If you don't like the carpet or it's in rough shape to start with, then yes, stripping it out and putting in your own floor is the answer.

I went with 5/8" plywood for my floor, not because I liked the weight but because I wanted to be able to *firmly* screw all the cabinetry in to the flooring. I felt that 1/2" wouldn't give me enough depth to get a good grab on the screws. I'm happy that I did, I know my cabinets are all firmly secured to the floor.

Finishing the floor is another subject of discussion - some go for sheet vinyl flooring and lay it over the wood floor before putting any cabinets in. Some do the same with laminate, either vinyl or wood. I went with vinyl laminate that I laid after most of the cabinets were in place. I did it after because it cut my cost considerably over laying it on the whole open floor. On the other hand it was definitely  more work cutting in around all the edges of the cabinets.

I also preferred the vinyl laminate because I know that I'm going to be in and out with beach sand and mud and water and the vinyl will stand up to it much better than any wood flooring would.

 

[East]

I think different conversion companies often have different floor mounts for rear seating. Do you have any pictures of the mounts? I'm pretty sure they every seat mount I've ever seen has been removable and not welded in, though some were a real pain and required crawling under the vehicle.

In my conversion the flooring starts with a layer of plywood at the bottom, then has some rigid foam board, and then padding + carpet at the surface. Tomorrow I'm going to start pulling up the original carpeting and padding, possibly removing the rigid foam board to get a more flush surface to work with. Ideally I hope I can just use the original plywood as a surface to install my laminate plank flooring.

 

[compassrose]

Not a van, but the bus has exterior roofing/subfloor grade OSB screwed down then self-stick Trafficmaster Ceramica vinyl floor tiles (glued down with PL375 adhesive as it doesn't self-stick to raw wood). To say I don't like carpet is an understatement. I prefer a hard, durable surface that will hold up to the dirt, gravel and general abuse. Just sweep/damp mop and it's done. Sleeping bag pads make good insulation for winter. Throw rugs can be washed or thrown away (the reason why they are called "throw" rugs.... when they get too dirty, you throw them away).

 

[Satellite5812]

I'm also a fan of flooring as opposed to carpeting. Seems it'll be a lot easier to keep cleaned. And when getting rid of my apartment & possessions I saved a throw rug specifically for that purpose. And I guess having the wood base to screw the furnishings into makes solid sense. So then I shouldn't be concerned about the seat mounts? Just build on top of everything?

 

[Almost There]

If the seat mounts are recessed in to the floor  then you're good to go. My Montana had that type of seat latch. The Astro had bolts that came up through the floor and stuck up high enough to mount the seats and add a bolt on top (maybe an inch) so they had to be removed.

 

[ALuckyDuck]

So AlmostThere used 5/8" plywood for his flooring. Due to limited ceiling space, I am considering 1/2". But on the other hand, I will probably want to securely mount my wooden bed frame and cabinets into the floor plywood, since I won't have a lot to work with for support from the walls or ceiling. Anyone else have insight or advice when choosing plywood? Anyone out there regret choosing thin plywood and wished they had went thicker?

 

[Almost There]

Actually I made a mistake - it was 3/4" plywood that I used.

The question is though - will a 1/4" difference between 1/2" plywood an 3/4" make a real difference to headspace.

Chances are that if you're lacking in headroom it's going to be lacking by several inches not just a 1/4".

The 1/4" thicker plywood allows for using longer screws so that they get a better grip.

The other thing I strongly recommend is investing in a Kreg Jr. pocket screw kit. That thing is amazing. I probably eliminated 5 lbs of angle brackets. But do pay the few pennies difference for Kreg screws to go with it rather than just using wood screws.

Oh and he is a she....

 

[akrvbob]

I know I am out of step with most of you on this, but I've never done anything to any of the floors on my vans or campers. I threw down a carpet and that was it.

But I take form verses function to an extreme, only considering function, while most of you want it to look nice.

To me plywood on the floor adds weight, takes up space, and provides no valuable function so I wouldn't consider doing it.
Bob

 

[ALuckyDuck]

Sorry Almost There for the assumption! My Transit Connect Van is not very spacious so every inch counts. Plus, I think 3/4" would be ~12lbs heavier than 5/8" over a 4'x8' sheet, and Bob did make a good point about weight.

Thanks for the input Bob. I previously had bare floor and that worked just fine in the past. The uneven surface of my floor isn't compatible with my new design plans however.

 

[highdesertranger]

no matter what size of plywood you use if you drive your screws at an angle they will grip better. driving a screw at an angle into 1/2 inch will get you 5/8 to 3/4 actual grip. that Kreg tool will make it easy. highdesertranger

 

[Mattkcc]

Plywood isn't a great material to screw into for strength whether it's 1/2" or 3/4. Normally you use screws to hold plywood onto lumber. If you want to attach something with weight that has to survive in a moving vehicle you need to find a better method. The easiest would be to glue and screw a piece of 1x2, 2x2 or 2x4 piece of lumber to the plywood then screw your cabinet or whatever into the lumber. This would be much stronger and you could use much thinner plywood and save weight. I have built plywood boats that were very strong with only 1/4" plywood but they need framing that is glued and screwed into.

 

[Reducto]

On my last van I had 1/4" foam insulation, then 1/2" OSB with vinyl tiles over that. The tiles wore down very fast and seemed to stick in place at first but I had to keep gluing them back down when they started sliding. On my new van I put in 1/2" insulation and the thinnest, cheapest laminate hardwood flooring they had at Home Depot. I didn't screw it down, just cut it to fit and hammered the pieces together. Now that I have my bed screwed to the wall and down into the floor it has not moved at all.

I'll have to see how it wears over time but so far I'm really liking it. It was around $28 for two boxes which should be enough for a full size van. They always seem to have a stack of really cheap flooring by the front door or in the floor section.

If you have high or low spots on your floor you could cut away or add to the insulation layer in those spots.

 

[ccbreder]

I remembered the very cold floors. My dodge window van, after removing the rear seats, rear rugs and poor insulation sheet. I glued/screwed 1x2 wood strips along two channels front to back, fit 1/2 solid foam aluminum faced insulation between strips. Because I wanted something to fasten stuff, I over laid 3/4 plywood, good stuff, not sheathing, and screwed that to the wood strips. A nice flooring base and the weight helps lower the center of gravity. my feet are warm in the early morning. That is the only plywood in my construction. Furniture is white pine as it is lighter than ply.