Fixed misfire, now tune up time. Any precautions? Also, rust falling under the plugs?

[TMG51]

Finally figured out the source of the clicking I was hearing when going uphill at interstate speeds... No. 8 misfire. Replaced that plug, noise went away. But I figure a full tune up is in order so I bought a full set of matching plugs, distributor cap, air filter. Anything I should know before undertaking that project? 

Also, when changing that one plug I happened to notice some rust and debris flake off while backing it out... I didn't want any debris falling into the engine under the plug so I fashioned up a tube for my vacuum to fit in there and vacuumed out the crud before it could fall in the hole. Is that a concern? I've never heard of anyone doing that. Kinda doubt a mechanic would take the time if I brought the van in for a tune up. But it seemed to me like a bad thing to let crud get into the engine.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I was taught to always use an air hose to blow any dirt away from the spark plugs before taking the old plugs out.  Only takes a few seconds, and I'd be surprised if all professional mechanics didn't do that.

Regards
John

 

[TMG51]

Well, specifically it seemed to be crap that flaked off while backing the old plug out. So not loose prior and I didn't want to blow it around once a hole was open. The plugs look like they haven't been changed in a bit...

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Well, specifically it seemed to be crap that flaked off while backing the old plug out. So not loose prior and I didn't want to blow it around once a hole was open. The plugs look like they haven't been changed in a bit...

So back the plug 3/4 of the way out and hit it with the air again before you finish pulling it.

Regards
John

 

[ramblingvanman]

Use a very light coating of anti-seize on your plugs before installing them. Use the right plugs for the car. Gap them correctly. Use dielectric grease on your plug wire connections. Do the tune up one cylinder at a time. Change your plug wires also. Don't forget the fuel filter. I also always use shop air, or a shop vac set up to blow if shop air not available. Change the rotor when you change the cap.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Wow!  I know that you are a professional mechanic and I'm just a tinkerer.  But I had never heard of using anti-seize on spark plugs before.  In fact, long, long ago, when I was first started tinkering with cars, the conventional wisdom was that you never used something like that on spark plugs cause it could interfere with the plug's ground path to the head.  But that was the old iron heads, not the modern aluminum ones.

I've just googled the question, and I'm seeing all kinds of opinions on this, both pro and con. 

I have too much respect for you to say that this is wrong.  A lot of stuff has changed over the years, and this could well be one of them, so maybe my information is out of date.

Regards
John

 

[TMG51]

Interesting. I've always heard use anti-sieze for fear of snapping a plug down the road on removal...

 

[MikeRuth]

Been changing plugs now for close to 50 years, Anti Seize used every time, no problems found. To each his own! works for me!

 

[B and C]

Anti Seize is recommended everywhere a steel bolt is inserted into aluminum, this would include the plugs.  Anti Seize is only put on the threads, not the seats/seals of the plugs and thus does not cause a ground problem.  It only takes a light coat.  

My son and I took an intake manifold off a friend of my son's car that had aluminum heads.  This engine had been worked on before by some of his other friends and when they put it back together they did not use anti seize on the bolts or plugs.  The aluminum threads from the head came out with several of the bolts and spark plugs.  The heads were trashed.  We got it to where he could drive it by using some helicoils. 

Brian

 

[Gary68]

what b and c said,now back on topic before dad gets here

add a fuel filter to your tune up

 

[highdesertranger]

x2 on anti seize. highdesertranger

 

[TMG51]

Here's what the old plugs and distributor cap contacts look like.....

I also changed the air intake filter. Didn't change the fuel filter because I don't know where it is.   Time to look that up.

 

[Gary68]

did you change the rotor too?

 

[TMG51]

did you change the rotor too?

No, I was afraid to touch it and change its position! It did look like shit though. If the part can be changed with little risk of me screwing it up I'll add that to the list.

 

[highdesertranger]

rotors only go on one way there is always an index of some type that only allows it to be installed one way. highdesertranger

 

[TMG51]

rotors only go on one way there is always an index of some type that only allows it to be installed one way.  highdesertranger

I assumed this was true, but I didn't know if whatever shaft it rests on might rotate accidentally. I take it from the context of your instruction that this is not of great concern.

I'll pick up a rotor and fuel filter next.

 

[TMG51]

Hmm my Google results seem to be saying there is no replacement fuel filter, it's part of the pump assembly in the tank...

 

[MikeRuth]

The rotor will simply pull off. Pull straight up. They are Keyed so there is no way you can put the old one on wrong, just make sure to push it down on the shaft solidly. If you don't get it all the way down your cap would not go back on easily.

always do a cap and rotor together, make sure the new parts match up identically to the old ones, if something looks different have your supplier verify that it's not an issue.

 

[MikeRuth]

My search says there may be an external filter located on the underside of the passenger frame rail near the center of the vehicle. A couple others said drivers side, so check both.

They commonly look like this. 

 

[TMG51]

Old rotor...