Factory scissor jack

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the factory scissor jacks are supposed to be use in specific locations. they will work in those locations. I abhor Harbor Freight and would not recommend anything from them. I would doubly not recommend anything that if it failed might cause the lose of life or limb. highdesertranger
 
plus That jack is heavy and bulky.

I carry a smaller 2 ton bottlejack and 1 inch plywood to spread the load if on hot asphalt or dirt.
 
A piece of 4x4 or 4x6 wood a foot long to put under the jack would be more durable and less expensive.
 
I still can't jack up the car high enough to work on the brakes using the factory scissor jack nor a 3 ton bottle jack.

Which jacking points are you guys using?
 
The scissor jack is for emergency use such as changing a flat. Not for use while doing extended work as replacing brakes.
 
If you put the jack under the frame, as you go up the suspension drops, causing you to have to go up quite a ways. If you can get the jack safely under the the suspension, (like under the rear axle or front A arms), you don't need to go up as high.
It is not considered to be a safe practice to work on a vehicle sitting on a jack. Something solid needs to be able to keep it from falling and possibly crushing you. If you need to do it, just make certain that no body part is under the vehicle.
 
If you have jack stands, that is the way to go. Sometimes pulling the tire off makes it easier to get at the bleeder screw.
 
I have one of the HF 2 ton racing jacks.  (Dont hate me!) 

I put it on a 2 X 12, and jack it up around where the shocks are.  Once the van is high enough, I slip a jack stand on another 2 X 12 in place.  The wheel comes off so that is not in my way.   

Do not use a farm jack.  We called them "Widowmakers, and the scissor jacks "Leg Takers" 

It is worth the extra weight to have a floor jack, stands, and 2 X 12's.
 
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