Dometic RC 4000

[mothercoder]

Found someone selling this refrigerator which appears to be 3-way and in good condition for $125 which seems like a fair price.  If you're using the same product or have thoughts on it, please let me know.

 

[highdesertranger]

do you want a 3 way? 3 way refers are very inefficient on 12 volts. most people run them on propane, is this what you want? I tried a 3 way when I first wanted to get off of using ice chests. I found that instead of making ice runs I was making propane runs. highdesertranger

 

[mothercoder]

do you want a 3 way?  3 way refers are very inefficient on 12 volts.  most people run them on propane,  is this what you want?   I tried a 3 way when I first wanted to get off of using ice chests.  I found that instead of making ice runs I was making propane runs.  highdesertranger

Good point.  I didn't realize them being 3 way makes them less efficient.

 

[SternWake]

Good point.  I didn't realize them being 3 way makes them less efficient.

Absorption fridges require lower and upper vents so that byproducts of combustion when on propane, for not enter living space.

Absorption fridges need to be mostly level to operate properly.  The times it runs off level is cumulatively damaging.  I'd not want a used one certainly, even at a good price.  Sometimes they stop working and just turning it upside down for a bit can get it to work again,  but for how long is the question

They Use a huge amount of electricity when on 12vDC, and also when on the grid too, but power consumption on grid is usually not a concern.

They work best when run on propane.  But as HDR said, one runs out of propane eventually.

Absorption fridges take a long time to get cold, a long time to cool items placed within, and might struggle to keep sub40F box temps in warm to hot weather

 

[mothercoder]

Absorption fridges require lower and upper vents so that byproducts of combustion when on propane, for not enter living space.

Absorption fridges need to be mostly level to operate properly.  The times it runs off level is cumulatively damaging.  I'd not want a used one certainly, even at a good price.  Sometimes they stop working and just turning it upside down for a bit can get it to work again,  but for how long is the question

They Use a huge amount of electricity when on 12vDC, and also when on the grid too, but power consumption on grid is usually not a concern.

They work best when run on propane.  But as HDR said, one runs out of propane eventually.

Absorption fridges take a long time to get cold, a long time to cool items placed within, and might struggle to keep sub40F box temps in warm to hot weather

It's been an education!  I'm glad I asked.  Thank you for the great info.

 

[wagoneer]

I do not like my 3 way Dometic, it's a power hog. Engel makes a 2 way compressor, not so "better be level" sensitive.

 

[jimindenver]

I don't believe a 3 way is any less effective than a 2 way, neither are all that wonderful on electric power. I have never felt my propane fridge to be a gas hog and while it would be nice to replace it with a 12v unit, I wonder how long it will take for mine to use that much propane.

 

[mothercoder]

So what do you all recommend? I'm not interested in having to deal with ice.

 

[highdesertranger]

the Engel 2 way is 12v/120v. no propane. I found in the summer I could go 2-3 weeks on a 20lb bottle. which I felt wasn't to bad. but still when you are out you're out. with a 12v refer, batteries, and solar. you have endless refrigeration. highdesertranger

 

[Almost There]

So what do you all recommend?  I'm not interested in having to deal with ice.

Any of the 12V/120V compressor units. Most are chest style but that's okay once you get used to it. It's just like using a chest style deep freeze - you learn to put things in differently that's all.

In an upright you're forever moving things that are at the front to get to things at the back. In a chest, you're forever moving things that are on top to get to things at the bottom.

"The advantages of chest style - the cold air stays down so all of it doesn't flood out when you open the lid like it does when you open the door of an upright; you can actually cram things in because everything isn't sitting on shelves.

We each have our own favorites of the half dozen or so manufacturers. I have a pair of 65 qt Whynters - one set at fridge temp, one at freezer temp.

They seem expensive to start with but when you figure out the cost of ice and the cost of obtaining the ice, I figure the return on investment for full-timing is somewhere in the one year range depending on where you're travelling and the cost of ice there.

 

[mothercoder]

Any of the 12V/120V compressor units. Most are chest style but that's okay once you get used to it. It's just like using a chest style deep freeze - you learn to put things in differently that's all.

In an upright you're forever moving things that are at the front to get to things at the back. In a chest, you're forever moving things that are on top to get to things at the bottom.

"The advantages of chest style - the cold air stays down so all of it doesn't flood out when you open the lid like it does when you open the door of an upright; you can actually cram things in because everything isn't sitting on shelves.

We each have our own favorites of the half dozen or so manufacturers. I have a pair of 65 qt Whynters - one set at fridge temp, one at freezer temp.

They seem expensive to start with but when you figure out the cost of ice and the cost of obtaining the ice, I figure the return on investment for full-timing is somewhere in the one year range depending on where you're travelling and the cost of ice there.

Yeah, those are a little rich for my blood right now.  What about just a 120v compact that draws about 2 amps.  If you have 2 house batteries and solar, I would think that would work.

 

[Almost There]

Show us a link to the fridge you have in mind and someone will give you the actual energy 'cost' in terms of amphours and battery needs.

 

[highdesertranger]

2 amps at 120v is about 20 amps at 12v. then you must factor in the inefficiencies of the inverter. which will run about 10-25%. plus those small refers are meant to be run in a controlled environment. I tried one of those too. I found in the summer when it's hot they suck power. I got rid of mine. highdesertranger

 

[mothercoder]

Igloo FR180 1.6-Cu-Ft Stainless Steel Door Refrigerator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YIJ7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_myLiyb6K44MP3

 

[ArtW]

Hmmm, my 3 way says it draws 1.5A on AC, my WalMart dorm fridge (2.7) runs on .8, if this thread hadn't prompted me to check it, I'd never have known
Downside, my WM special has to be manually defrosted, and it's a bit smaller (dometic is 3.14cu)
If only it fit the hole the dometic is in

 

[highdesertranger]

Art that 1.5 is on 120v, at 12v that would be about 15A. then add to that it doesn't cycle, it is using that power 24/7. not very efficient at 12v 15x24=360. 360ah/day @ 12v. highdesertranger

 

[ArtW]

Yeah, the tag says 14.6a on 12v, if I were traveling and didn't have shore power, i'd want to run it off propane
I wonder if I could find someone to trade me a 12v compressor fridge for it
Lol
the 24/7 thing I didn't know, might be wise to shut the fool thing off and use the WM one instead, especially considering all the other disadvantages of an absorption fridge *sigh*

 

[Gunny]

Unless there is a way to check the operation on propane I would be cautious. There is some reason someone yanked that unit out of an RV and the most common is not cooling. They take at least a day to get cool and longer if you put room temperature items in it. They use very little propane when working correctly, definitely not a 'hog'.

 

[phleeb]

Unless there is a way to check the operation on propane I would be cautious. There is some reason someone yanked that unit out of an RV and the most common is not cooling. They take at least a day to get cool and longer if you put room temperature items in it. They use very little propane when working correctly, definitely not a 'hog'.

Agreed - I use the one pound bottles. While driving and/or good solar I keep it plugged in using the 12 volt connection. I also use the 110 volt connection when on shore power. So when I combine all the options, depending on what I'm doing and where I'm at, I generally power the unit for about 5 hours daily on propane. One bottle lasts me about a week this way.

 

[#1BonBonQueen]

I don't believe a 3 way is any less effective than a 2 way, neither are all that wonderful on electric power. I have never felt my propane fridge to be a gas hog and while it would be nice to replace it with a 12v unit, I wonder how long it will take for mine to use that much propane.

We have one of the 3-way fridges in our camper at our hunting camp.
It ran for 12 days on LP, with our hot water tank, our stove and our oven also being used.
It used a 30 pound tank of LP in that 12 days of use.
That sounds like a lot of LP, but in the same amount of time, we have used a total of $60.00 of electric for our fridge, so for us, it is a lot cheaper to use it on LP than on 120 volts.
But a lot of that is because our electric is pretty expensive, at .25 a KWH.
Just adding my 2 cents to this thread.
We have always liked our camping fridges better, i.e. they seemed colder and less expensive on LP. But that could just be us?