Does a battery charge controller run 24/7?

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I am working on my spreadsheet to see how much A/H I need per day for the basic electronic items.

I know the amount is negligible, the specs on the battery charge controller I am looking at says it draws 14 mA on standby which if the calculations are correct means it wouldn't even draw 1 amp per day.  I am just not clear on whether it has to be on 24 hours since we only get X number of hours when the solar panels can start working.

I am not quite clear whether a battery charge controller is drawing power 24 hours a day or just when it is charging? 

Does this question make sense?
 
I assume you are talking a solar charge controller.  When the solar panels no longer put out sufficient voltage (night), the charge controller turns them off so they don't suck power, but it continues with that 14ma draw because it is connected to the battery.  As long as the charge controller is connected to the batteries, that parasitic draw is there (day or night).  You could put a switch in the line going to the battery, but I would not recommend it.  The installation instructions always tell you to connect the charge controller to the batteries first, then to the panels.  I would not want you to take the chance on ruining your charge controller by switching it this way just to save the very negligible draw.

It is way better to buy a bigger battery and/or another panel if your are getting close on your electrical usage because not every day is bright and sunny.  In fact, you may have to go several days waiting for the rain to stop and have to run the engine to charge the battery (if you connect the alternator to the battery).  Solar panels do not always put out their rated power either as elevation, heat, clouds, and how far North you are is going to affect them.  Those ratings are usually done under ideal conditions.

You always want to round up the numbers you come up with.

Brian
 
14ma is a third of an amp per 24 hours.  Sure, you could put a switch into the circuit from the solar panel and avoid the night time power loss while the controller waits for something to do.  However, when you eventually do forget to flip the switch back on in the AM you could miss out on a whole day worth of solar charge.
 
You could probably replace the switch they are talking about with a relay that pulls it's power straight from the solar panels so the controller goes on and off  automaticly with the sun.

But honestly, you'd have to be pretty damn obsessive compulsive to worry about a draw that low.

Regards
John
 
Yeah , don't sweat the small stuff and that kind of load is pretty small !
You'll more than make up for it by the amount of charge you would miss by not having it on as soon as it starts to get light out.

You can save way more by using just one LED light instead of an old style incandescent bulb (for a very short amount of time).

Leave it on seems to be the consensus here. ;)
 
I have a few 15ma parasitic draws, like my USB sources.  2 of them i can switch off, the other I need to pull the fuse.  Sometimes I switch them off, but the other USB I only de activate when i fly east for a few weeks over the holidays.


The minor draw could be negated by squeeging the solar panels more often, or any multitude of other ways one can employ to use less battery power overall.

My TV uses about 90ma just waiting for my remote to send the power on Signal.  I do have another switch on its power cord I use more often.

Speaking of the USB, I saw Blueseas is coming out with a more powerful outlet that increases total output to 4.8 amps instead of 2.1a, and it only has 1mA parasitic draw compared to 15mA for their previous model which I employ

https://www.bluesea.com/products/1045/Dual_USB_Charger_-_Socket_Mount
 
That Bluesea USB outlet is sweet.  My rig will be getting one for the dash and one for the power center.
 
Yes it is. The older model I employ is able to hold 5.09v under a 1 amp load where as my others fall to 4.89v, or worse. One of them just goes right to 4.78v. The BlueSeas version charges my phone noticeably faster when used with a short Anker brand 1' long micro USB cable.

Lesser parasitic draw, while not really a factor, is certainly deeply in the warm and fuzzy category, and there is no point in arguing against the acquisition and employment and of the basking within, the warm and fuzzies.
 
Awesome, thank you everyone for clearing it up. Yes, the solar battery charge controller was what I meant. I apologize for not adding solar to the terminology. Great feedback here everyone and I do agree with you on the mA draw being a negligible factor here.

It was a random thought that popped in my mind and I never thought of a switch (I agree, I would not want a switch between the panels and the controller,). You do bring up a good case for having a switch somewhere else where something that might continue drawing power can be killed at the switch (for example, a LED monitor?). Obviously, the easiest thing anyone can do is unplug everything but a kill switch somewhere might come in handy somewhere somehow for some reason beyond me.

In any case, yall made me confirm the idea of having 2 12V deep-cycle batteries to provide me enough power for at least 48 hours (for a minimalist cargo van lifestyle) is better than having just one 12v battery.

Muchas gracias.
 
TheSimpleNomad said:
In any case, yall made me confirm the idea of having 2 12V deep-cycle batteries to provide me enough power for at least 48 hours (for a minimalist cargo van lifestyle) is better than having just one 12v battery.

Muchas gracias.

With wet/ flooded batteries, '12v deep cycle' is an oxymoron in 99% of cases.  Even the best group 24/27/31 deep cycle batteries made by Crown, Deka, Trojan and USbattery, will have only half the cycle life as a Pair of 6v golf cart batteries in the same charge/discharge regimen.

Most batteries sold in the 24/27/31/29 size groups ( like wally world batteries) will not even get 2/3 the cycle life of of the 4 brands listed above, but they will also be only 2/3 the price of those listed above.

A pair of 6v golf cart batteries is not only the best bang for the buck, they are easier to fully recharge and will tolerate deep cycling better, and if they are heavily abused, stand a much better chance of recovery when a full charge/ equalization charge is performed.

There are a few true deep cycle 12v batteries.  the Trojan T-1275, J150, J185 are larger taller, more expensive, and will rival 6v GC batteries in cycle life.  Actually I can get a t-1275 for the same price as a trojan group31.  20 more AH and twice the cycle life for the same price.

I do not have the height to accommodate 6v GC batteries, not do I require 232 AH capacity total.  I am going through a lot of effort to fit a T-1275 where a group 31 once resided.  I am sick of car jar batteries with deep cycle stickers.  I was able to get close to 500 deep cycles on a group31 USbattery, but I expect to get 1000+ Deep cycles from the trojan T-1275 that is in my future.

The group31 USbattery cost me 165$.  The Trojan T-1275 will cost 175$ before tax and core charge.  10 more $ for twice the expected cycle life and is easier to fully recharge.  Seems like kind of a No brainer.

If you can fit the height requirements of 2 6vGC batteries, but opt for a pair of Wally world group 29's instead, you are shooting yourself in the foot.  The only area where wet/flooded 12v batteries could out perform 6v GC batteries is when under very high inverter loads, like when running a microwave for 5+ minutes.

AGMS in the group24/27/31 size groups can outperform flooded batteries in these size group in deep cycle duty, but they require being 100%  fully charged more often and require an occasional higher amperage recharge to achieve this.  Lifeline, Full River, Odyssey and Northstar make the best AGM batteries.  Odyssey requires huge recharging currents when deeply cycled and do not make a good solar only battery when discharged close to 50% nightly.

The deeper any battery is discharged the more important it is that it be returned to full charge ASAP, and with AGMS the higher the charge rate, the better, with a few exceptions.

Some of the Lesser$$ AGMs like Deka intimidator, which is rebadged by many retailers, cannot handle charge rates in excess of 30%.  30 amps for a 100AH capacity battery.

Most newbies to living on battery power become battery murderers from over discharging them and under charging them.  The Info above is to help you know what a battery needs to live a respectable lifespan, and with 12v standard car jar size batteries,  the task of getting a respectable lifespan is twice as difficult.  if you require 230AH of battery capacity, and can fit a 12 inch tall battery, get the 6c golf cart batterys and wire them in series.

Sams club and Costco sell these at good prices.  They are not as good of Quality as the GC batteries by Trojan/Crown/Deka/USbattery , but they will greatly outlast any standard car jar 12v battery in deep cycle service
 
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