Converters and my fridge and...

[heron]

Okay, right off I'll apologize for lack of knowledge. I've read and read and read, and there's much I still don't understand.  At. All. Makes me nuts. Anyway. I took John's advice and bought two 6 volt GCs, which I picked up today. Tomorrow I'll get the wiring to put them together. Since my Dodge Roadtrek Class B is so old ('88), I need a new converter to replace the dumb 30A system in place, and am looking, so far, at a Progressive Dynamics 4135 30 amp at around $150 or a Pronautic 1230P, 30A at approximately twice that. The plan is for some solar down the road, so don't want to be spending more, later, on what I should have gotten in the first place. Sigh. I don't mean to ask others to do my work for me, but having read all the stuff, I just don't know. Thoughts?

Second question: Got the propane tank recertified and filled. Propane appliances rarely, if ever, used. Turned up the thermostat, and the furnace fired right up, but the refrigerator gets spark but no flame. Could it be that the batteries need to be hooked up, for some reason, for the fridge to work? I've had the van hooked up to 110, but the battery is out. Fridge works finest kind on 110.

Time's coming closer. My genius stepson takes the van over the weekend to thoroughly check and replace what needs replacing, then a quick shakedown trip. A trip downeast to hug friends and a grand kid. More of that, here, and we are on the road.

Can't express how glad I am to be among you. Hope to lay eyes on as many as I can irl.

 

[John61CT]

If you're only ever going to use lead batts the PD is likely fine.

I like the Sterling and PM chargers for their setpoint adjustability, user defined profiles, ability to derate when needed, etc, makes them more future-proof, e.g. if you want to go LFP later.

 

[John61CT]

Yes many propane fridges need a little electricity to run the electronic controls.

 

[heron]

Yes many propane fridges need a little electricity to run the electronic controls.

Had to enlarge the battery box, and am making a list for a run to town, so hopefully the batteries will be hooked up today, and I'll find out if that was the issue.

 

[highdesertranger]

did you bleed the air out of the propane system? very important step for the refrigerator. some of the older refrigerators don't need electricity to run on propane all the newer ones do. highdesertranger

 

[Almost There]

The other thing to check on the fridge is to make sure that the pilot tube is free and clear of stuff like spiders webs.

The fridge has a vent panel to the outdoors and it makes an ideal home for little critters like spiders. They seem to like those tubes more than anything else when the pilot isn't kept lit.

Use a regular pipe cleaner (not craft grade) or you can get a tube cleaner from a propane dealer.

 

[frater secessus]

I like the Sterling and PM chargers for their setpoint adjustability, user defined profiles, ability to derate when needed, etc, makes them more future-proof, e.g. if you want to go LFP later.

Good point.   I'm also a control freak and want the system to do what I say rather than what the manufacturer wants. 

OP;  I met these criteria by building a shore power converter/charger from a 24v power supply and an mppt charge controller.    Not necessarily the right solution for everyone, but reallly flexible.

 

[DLTooley]

Good point.   I'm also a control freak and want the system to do what I say rather than what the manufacturer wants. 

OP;  I met these criteria by building a shore power converter/charger from a 24v power supply and an mppt charge controller.    Not necessarily the right solution for everyone, but reallly flexible.

That looks cool?  Presumably the system is fused.

 

[heron]

Thanks, everyone. I'm finding it frustrating that I'm not able to do this all the time, and stay focused on it, rather than the mundane issues that really do have to be taken care of, I suppose.

The fridge is the thing, for the moment, I guess. It works on neither 12V nor propane.
HDR, it has a piezo starter on it, and the button next to that, that allows the gas through, which should purge it, no? The stove burners and the furnace work fine.
AT, it's vented at top and bottom., but neither place is accessible. It's off with mechanic young fellow, now, but when I get it back, I'm going to pull off the front cover and see what I can see, there. I'm having fits, with it gone.

J61 and Frater - As to the converter/charger, as much as I wish I were tech and detail oriented (reading SternWake's posts was fascinating), I'm pretty much not, I guess, and I also have to remember that I'm still a full time caregiver. So I'm going to have to find the thing that will do the job, with reasonable layperson maintenance.

 

[John61CT]

As I said, either will do, none need any maintenance, just initial setup, maybe tweaking the settings every few years when you replace your bank.

 

[frater secessus]

That looks cool?  Presumably the system is fused.

Yes, all circuits are fused within a foot of power sources.

 

[frater secessus]

Thanks, everyone. I'm finding it frustrating that I'm not able to do this all the time, and stay focused on it, rather than the mundane issues that really do have to be taken care of, I suppose.

To quote St Elmo's Fire, "I'm in touch with that emotion." 

I'm pretty much not, I guess, and I also have to remember that I'm still a full time caregiver. So I'm going to have to find the thing that will do the job, with reasonable layperson maintenance.

Makes total sense.  I'm a stubborn pragmatic and cheapskate out of necessity.  Do what works and what doesn't kill the piggy bank! 

Although I do appreciate reading about military-grade solutions my budget and interest level usually don't support that approach...  My interest in military grade stuff was left behind in the military.

 

[Weight]

As you asked, I say get the Promariner, ProNauticP. It is very easy to use and has many user settings for when you upgrade. don't use it for LiFePo
You may need to open the propane line at the fridge to get the air out and the propane in. At least for the first start-up. Get a jumper pack and test the fridge on 12VDC.

 

[John61CT]

> Promariner, ProNauticP. It is very easy to use and has many user settings for when you upgrade.
> don't use it for LiFePO4

That and Sterling ProCharge Ultra are AFAIK the **only** two automatic OTS shore chargers adjustable enough to use for LFP.

If you know of better ones please let us know.

 

[heron]

> Promariner, ProNauticP. It is very easy to use and has many user settings for when you upgrade.
> don't use it for LiFePO4

That and Sterling ProCharge Ultra are AFAIK the **only** two automatic OTS shore chargers adjustable enough to use for LFP.

If you know of better ones please let us know.

Well, I just checked on what LFPs are, and what they cost, and I am completely priced out of that market, thanks, so whatever I get will just have to work with my GC2s. Going to go price the ProNauticP, again, and see if I can make it work. I really want to do solar, asap, and want the charger to do well with that, but I'm watching the pennies go out, and getting a little panicky. John, I'm not sure where I stand on the 300W generator? I looked up derating, but am not sure exactly what it meant, in context. (I meant it when I said I was ignorant.)

 

[John61CT]

That is very small.

Derating means you have a 60A charger for futureproofing, but that model lets you step the DC current output down as needed, thus also the AC input drawn so it doesn't overwhelm a genny, blow a fuse on a shared circuit etc.

So you can try your little gennie out see how you go, then maybe upgrade later if you think you need more. Get full output on shore power.

To save money, a plain power supply can act as a charger, you just need to supervise it manually.

 

[heron]

That is very small.

Derating means you have a 60A charger for futureproofing, but that model lets you step the DC current output down as needed, thus also the AC input drawn so it doesn't overwhelm a genny, blow a fuse on a shared circuit etc.

So you can try your little gennie out see how you go, then maybe upgrade later if you think you need more. Get full output on shore power.

To save money, a plain power supply can act as a charger, you just need to supervise it manually.

Ah, ok, now I pretty much get it. What do you think of a 600? Runs great and I can get it cheaply. Or still too small?

 

[John61CT]

I would suggest getting the charger, trying it with a DMM and ammeter with your genny and bank, seeing how things work and going from there.

I've personally never seen anything smaller than the Honda EU1000i.