Charge RV battery with solar

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Stymie

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Hooked up a 4.8 volt trickle solar charger to a 5th wheel RV.  So far the battery has died, the only thing runny g is s charge to fridge for propane and water pump occasionally. 
Harbor Freight has a 20 volt solar panel but before I jump, I believe it would need something to keep it from overcharging..
In the desert outside wickenburg az..
 
These tiny panels are **only** good for keeping a bank *already Full*, from running down while isolated from all loads in storage.

Or maybe cover keeping the clock and radio programmed.

Certainly not enough for pumps, fridge electronics etc.

You need to measure your AH-per24hrs draw with an AH counting meter like WattsUp.

The we can help you select a properly sized solar setup.

Which yes will require a solar controller.
 
Checked for Wattsup meter - no longer made .
Another meter that does the same thing?
 
A 100 watt panel and basic 10 amp controller will work, but will be marginal on cloudy days and/or low sun angles in the winter.

200 watts would be better, with a 15-20 amp solar charge controller. 

If your coach batteries have died, they might need to be replaced, depending on the results of testing them.
 
Stymie said:
Hooked up a 4.8 volt trickle solar charger to a 5th wheel RV.  So far the battery has died, the only thing runny g is s charge to fridge for propane and water pump occasionally. 
Harbor Freight has a 20 volt solar panel but before I jump, I believe it would need something to keep it from overcharging..
In the desert outside wickenburg az..
Home Depot has a good selection of solar products. They have a 100 watt panel for $109.99:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-S...ts-and-12-Volt-Systems-GS-Star-100W/204211365

If you have a way to monitor your battery voltage, you could get by without a charge controller. Without a charge controller you will also have to keep close watch of your electrolyte level for a flooded type battery.

To make it simpler and safer get a charge controller. For 12 volt panels a simple PWM controller will work fine. Most panels over 100 watts are 24 volt and would require a more expensive MPPT controller.

If you think you may need more than 100 watts, simply add a second panel.
 
RVs often have a converter. It takes 120 volts AC and makes 12 volts DC to run lights, pumps, etc. The control circuit for a propane fridge would also be a typical load.

People often confuse converters with battery chargers. Typical converters are not good battery chargers as they either don't charge enough or charge too much. Either way the battery suffers. Converters don't need a battery to work. They power the lights, pumps, etc.

Battery chargers aren't great converters. They need a battery. Some get confused by a changing load current and decide to shut down.

Trickle chargers are supposed to keep a battery charged making up for internal self discharge in the battery. Usually they are cheap, poorly regulated, and ineffective. Some do their job well enough. That job doesn't include pumps and fridges.

If your RV stays plugged in you don't need to keep a battery. A power supply or converter will work with no battery. If you occasionally go camping off grid you might do well with a $100 solar panel, $100 flooded lead acid battery, and a $15 PWM charge controller. Check / add water monthly. If you can't, won't, or don't add water get a $200 AGM battery. Be warned, AGMs can be fragile, easy to ruin overcharging or deliberately undercharging to avoid overcharging.

The Harbor Freight solar panel is neither monocrystaline nor polycrystaline. It is amorphous making it much larger for the same watts. I have seen complaints that the glass isn't tough. It's good enough for stationary use, maybe a problem at vehicle speeds.
 
a volt gauge is a poor way to judge battery state of charge(SOC). running a solar panel without a controller is like running a car without brakes. even the small less then 20watt panels benefit from a controller, highdesertranger
 
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