Cargo Van Search Checklist/Mechanical?

[riggyk]

Hey Everyone,

So after some serious deliberation and thought I've concluded that Sprinter for my stealthing scenario for the time being is just a bit impractical, as it's a bit large size-wize and I can nearly cut my cost in half by going cargo van, while also having a better quality control mindset with the american vehicle.

My questions to you all are, should you be so kind:


1) I'm going into this blind and by myself with minimal mechanical knowledge, does anybody have any material to point to in terms of a high level thought process or checklist to go through when checking out a cargo van specifically (ex: chevy express etc.)? Bob was awesome enough to give me a mileage guide so I'll be looking for Sub 150K, and ideally somewhere between 100-120K to minimize mechanical neediness and headaches. Also going to look for rust and other basics.

2) If the "checklist" is reasonably covered, does this kind of van require a trip to the mechanic as well as with the Sprinter? Or maybe just a trip to a relatively reputable mechanic with a computer vs the dog-and-pony-show of a sprinter mercedes engine? Is it even necessary? If so, are there specific things to google to find local mechanics that specialize in these cargo vans? Or will any reputable mechanic with a diagnostic computer do with a basic google search?

Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks so much in advance!

 

[wagoneer]

You will ALWAYS FIND SURPRIZES with used good and bad don't let fugly turn you away, although first impressions are important. I feel for people lacking basic knowledge, a code scanner can be had for very little bucks and even with a code scanner and a laptop you will be puzzled and at times sidetracked by unimportant codes. Like low windshield wiper fluid? huh?

 

[Almost There]

My best suggestion for someone who has limited mechanical knowledge and is looking to buy a vehicle of any type:

Take someone with you who has as many years of experience as you can find - a trusted relative, a friend who is mechanically inclined, someone from work etc.

Of course, narrow down the search before you start dragging anyone around with you by making sure that it is in your price/mileage/class range!

When I'm looking at a vehicle it's a definite sense of what's good and not so good - does it steer straight, does it handle well for the class that it's in, are there any funny noises, are there any signs of fluid leaks, how's the acceleration for the size of the vehicle and motor, etc. etc. ad inifinitum.

Have who ever you take talk you through what they are doing in checking out a vehicle. Learn from them so that a few vehicles down the road, you have developed your own sense of what is acceptable for the price.

And yes, all reputable mechanics can work on standard cargo vans and if you already have a reputable mechanic that has done work on previous vehicles for you, then I'd trust them over a stranger.

 

[riggyk]

Any thoughts on this sucker? Is the potential body work a pain and stealth giveaway, also no AC? - http://www.aceequipmentdealer.com/2000_Ford_E250_Canfield_OH_264959500.veh

 

[Almost There]

It's in pretty good shape for being 16 years old and the mileage is certainly low enough.

I didn't see a whole lot of bodywork issues going on but both the pics and the video seem to be studiously ignoring the passenger side of the van. It looks like it might have a side slider, which while not a deal breaker for some, would turn me off.

The low mileage may mean that it's been sitting unused in the previous owners' yard for a while which might or might not mean dealing with some rubber /gasket issues sooner rather than later.

My one concern is the 6cyl engine in a 3/4 ton truck...it's going to be a bit underpowered if you're planning on doing western mountains and or long highway trips.

Price seems a bit high for the year but it may be consistent with local pricing IDK.

 

[TrainChaser]

A mechanical friend is good, but a real mechanic with the gadgets that can read a lot of problems is better. Around here (W. WA), it costs about $125, but I would rather lose that than the purchase price. Don't use a mechanic recommended by the seller.

Also, the price is the ASKING price, not necessarily the SELLING price. Good luck!

 

[Ballenxj]

Any thoughts on this sucker? Is the potential body work a pain and stealth giveaway, also no AC? - http://www.aceequipmentdealer.com/2000_Ford_E250_Canfield_OH_264959500.veh

Since it was owned by A.T. & T. I would bet the maintenance has been kept up to date. Having said that, I will also bet it is pretty spartan. They already said no A/C, so probably no cruise control either, along with the most basic  interior and seats.
Think of it as raw canvas waiting to be painted/finished.
On the other hand, it's more likely mechanically sound. Still, bring somebody that is familiar with what to look for.
My first van back in the day, was a 1967 GMC short wheel base van that used to belong to a phone company. It was equipped with a straight six and three on the tree.
I loved that van and wish I still had it.

 

[riggyk]

I'm sort of effed here as I'm just not in the position to be able to bring somebody with me, so I'm going to have to kind of do the best I can here. - Will scour for some kind of checklist online.

Any thoughts on this guy?

http://usedcars.autocheck.com/detai...leXdvcmRzLWNhcmdvLXZhbg==&v_user=YXV0b2NoZWNr

 

[riggyk]

Actually, not to be a total pain here.. but in addition to those mentioned above I've narrowed it down to the following... maybe these, essentially trying to keep mileage below 150K. Not to inundate:

http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/5765312573.html (125K - $6K)
http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/5717708282.html (100K - $3500) - Though not many pics here and haven't gotten much response wise. Seems almost too good to be true.
https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5753366247.html (146K - $4500)
https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/ctd/5775919414.html (Roof rack) (142K - $5K)
https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle.../www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/23050404 (146K - $3,795)
https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/21905963 (134K - $6K)
https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/21047765 (145K - $5K)
https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/19015086 (120K - $5,500)
https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/19091612 (123K - $4,900)

 

[Ballenxj]

Actually, not to be a total pain here.. but in addition to those mentioned above I've narrowed it down to the following... maybe these, essentially trying to keep mileage below 150K. Not to inundate:

Although I saw some interesting Fords in your list, I tend to lean way more towards the Chevy's.
Based on personal experience, I just don't trust Ford automatic transmissions. For me they have been money pits.

 

[drysailor]

Since it was owned by A.T. & T. I would bet the maintenance has been kept up to date. Having said that, I will also bet it is pretty spartan. They already said no A/C, so probably no cruise control either, along with the most basic  interior and seats.
Think of it as raw canvas waiting to be painted/finished.
On the other hand, it's more likely mechanically sound. Still, bring somebody that is familiar with what to look for.
My first van back in the day, was a 1967 GMC short wheel base van that used to belong to a phone company. It was equipped with a straight six and three on the tree.
I loved that van and wish I still had it.

Not to be obstinate here but, FWIW, far away and long ago, I worked as a garage mechanic for AT+T.
PM? That might have been a new candy bar back then, but the AT+T credo was, "PM? we don't need no stinkin PM!! 
While a government owned vehicle might be on a real PM schedule, in a for-profit business, it might be done if it's convenient. Why do you think most businesses dump vehicles before 100K miles? 
I have more recent experience in the same subject with a major oil company, and it was no different there - when it was convenient, if it wasn't too busy, and the rainy season was approaching, they might have gone around checking windshield wipers.
A Carfax subscription might be a good buy, if you're serious about buying, although DIYers and many smaller shops don't report to them. A real mechanic's opinions, for a couple hundred $$, are a necessity. Carfax has one of these mechanics' services attached to their website, for approx. $150, but I don't know if that's just local LosAngeles or nationwide. AAA has some kind of 'approval' rating for mechanic shops - I think a shop can apply to them, and if they approve, the shop can say it's AAA approved. Most independent shops will likely do this service, for a few hours' labor rates. Ask around. This check should include checks in/out/under/fluids appearance/etc,etc; records check & road test. Just don't pay your $$ without someone who checks automotive stuff for a living, at least offering an opinion.

 

[drysailor]

Not to be obstinate here but, FWIW, far away and long ago, I worked as a garage mechanic for AT+T.
PM? That might have been a new candy bar back then, but the AT+T credo was, "PM? we don't need no stinkin PM!! 
While a government owned vehicle might be on a real PM schedule, in a for-profit business, it might be done if it's convenient. 
This check should include checks in/out/under/fluids appearance/etc,etc; records check & road test. Just don't pay your $$ without someone who checks automotive stuff for a living, at least offering an opinion.

PS: A recent post in another forum on this site describes an RV purchase where the RV looked OK, but after the new owner driving some distance, died electrically along an isolated stretch of highway. Hard to believe that a genuine mechanic making electrical checks in a checkout might not have noticed something awry.

 

[riggyk]

This is close and a solid deal. - I think I see a bit of rust though on the bottoms... rust is a bitch because it seems like some say BEWARE (iceberg effect) etc., but it's a tough call as I only need this for maybe 1-2 years max and out in California.

https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/22068912

Gonna have to just go check this one I think.

 

[riggyk]

Another good $ tag but a bit worried on the miles here:

https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/23050404

 

[akrvbob]

California vehicles have to pass CA emissions inspections, that could be a real heartbreaker if you buy it somewhere else and it just can't pass CA emissions.

 

[riggyk]

California vehicles have to pass CA emissions inspections, that could be a real heartbreaker if you buy it somewhere else and it just can't pass CA emissions.

Good points Bob... but in the end I just don't have the luxury/capacity to go for a pre-CA approved van right now as I'm so far away. - I'm just going to work at bringing a mechanic with me and try to be as plugged into things like:

Oil seepage, head gaskets, and to be cognoscente of sensors/components/electrical etc. -- Not really sure what more I can do. Plus I guess I'll just keep the reg as NY if things are in good working order and just operate on the grey line for some time until it becomes an issue and get things CA registered/emissions approved. I can always be a "traveler" or "working on a brief assignment". As long as everything is good on the van I feel I should have some room to run for a bit.

 

[riggyk]

Hey Guys...

So just as a heads up I'm zoning in on this van.. the dealer was cool enough to just send the van straight out to a service guy/mechanic and asked that I just ring them to go over what came of it and what I'd like them to look for.

Anything I should mention specifically? I figured I'd say just give it a fundamental mechanic run through and a diagnostic check and give me your most unbiased assessment:

https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/22068912

I dunno. Never done this before so any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[highdesertranger]

a note about smog testing in CA. it is not state wide. if you are a resident of a county with a population under 50k there is no smog test. highdesertranger

 

[riggyk]

So just spoke to the mechanic he said no check engine lights.. no smoke, everything checks out in terms of transmission and all looks well. Test drove it. Rust isn't bad.

 

[DannyB1954]

If you are doing more than weekend camping, I would skip the 1/2 ton vans. Weight builds quickly with water, generator, solar, batteries, cabinetry, food, camping gear, etc. By the time you fully outfit a 1/2 ton you are near or at max capacity.

Ford appears to have engine problems between 2005 and 2008. Dodge vans say they are 3/4 ton, but really are not, (Have lower capacity than other brands). They use a 5 lug axle which is weaker than the 8 lug axles.

My vote would be Chevy. If you plan to tow, the 6.0 engine. If not, the 4.8 seems to be a good choice.