Cargo Trailer standard equipment question

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Queen

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Just a quick question as I'm trying to learn the basics on a subject where I'm woefully lacking even basic knowledge.

I like the size and options available on this trailer, but for all I know its list of standard equipment could be utter crap.  http://www.trailershowroom.com/cc-tw712ta2.htm?tp=CONTINUE+SHOPPING#.V_43ouMrLnD

We would stay in some campgrounds (State Parks and such), very minimal off road use, no water or propane systems added, just a basic build out of beds, porta potty, some shelves.  We'd add AC, electrical, and RV doors/windows as options.

Anyone with trailer knowledge feel free to weigh in, would the standard equipment list be okay, or is upgrading a necessity??
 
The only option I would be seriously interested in is the upgrade to torsion suspension instead of the spring leaf.

The torsion axles allow a far greater side to side disparity in loading IMO.

But with the add on price that they charge for it, I'd get a quote from Wells Cargo on the same size.


Oh, and the woman door needs to definitely have a RV door lock installed...standard cargo door locks only work from the outside.
 
My understanding is that trailers with torsion axles are lower to the ground and have less ground clearance that the trailers with leaf springs do. 

Also that the rubber in torsion axles doesn't stand up well to a steady diet of rough roads. 

But since you're not planning much off road use, that may not matter to you.  Still, if you're thinking of ever making the Rubber Tramp Rendezvous . . .

I've mentioned this before - as have a few others - but in case you missed it, you need to start hanging out at:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=42

We have a few people here with Cargo Trailers, but that forum will have TONS of knowledgeable users who can answer your questions.
 
The paved roads in and around Quartzite are in worse condition than the gravel road that we use for the last mile or so. Heck I found parts of the interstate in worse condition.

In any case, a trailer goes in once and out once...it's not something one hauls around each time one goes to town.

Truthfully, I've never had anything other than independent torsion suspension so I can't offer any comparison.
 
I would try to get an RV door for the side door, I didn't see it listed but I would try. another 6 inches of interior height would be nice. do you ever plan to off road this trailer? the rest of the stuff I would recommend are easy to do yourself. highdesertranger
 
They offer RV doors, I mentioned in my first post that we would add RV doors and a couple of windows. I'm thinking the 36" RV door rather than the 32".

Some off road, mainly things like access roads to out of the way camping spots, getting to the RTR and that nice place they camped up in Flagg.
 
getting to RTR is no problem. but if you are planning on say 250+ miles off highway every year and your trailer is going to be near it's max weight. I would upgrade the axles and no torsion axles. highdesertranger
 
Queen said:
They offer RV doors, I mentioned in my first post that we would add RV doors and a couple of windows.  I'm thinking the 36" RV door rather than the 32".

Some off road, mainly things like access roads to out of the way camping spots, getting to the RTR and that nice place they camped up in Flagg.

not sure where you are, but, I've had great luck with these people and the trailers are priced right. If you're close enough, they're worth a look. 

http://www.usacargotrailersales.com/virtuemart/7-wide/7x12-tandem-axle-detail.html
 
highdesertranger said:
getting to RTR is no problem.  but if you are planning on say 250+ miles off highway every year and your trailer is going to be near it's max weight.  I would upgrade the axles and no torsion axles.  highdesertranger

I'm guessing we won't be close to half its max weight capacity.  It will basically be a rolling hard sided tent for us... with a nice porta potty set up.
 
I have that brand of trailer in 7x14. I went with 6" additional height and would do that again. I also added an additional roof vent that is a fantastic fan. I added 2 additional ceiling lights as the 1 that is included is not adequate. Upgrade to radial tires. Also extend the tongue to 42" allows you to access the tow vehicle tailgate easily. I went 12" on center floor and side wall joists to beef it up. Also insulate and finish the ceiling brightens it up and eliminates some rain noise. I wished I would have had an exterior light at the man door. Also I would have opted for a full rv door that included a screen door. The windows are a must. I don't believe it includes a 12 volt battery. I built a 3 battery box that powers the lights and fan.
 
Are you going to insulate it? Any solar plans? Getting a bigger cooler? Vents and fans? Propane bottle and heater? Water storage for solar shower? Stuff has a way of finding me and everything ends up being too heavy. Be sure to think ahead.
 
The inside plywood walls are sometimes attached with non-removable screws.  ( They add a great deal of structural strength, and the manufacturers don't want idiots trying to remove them and then driving down the road without them.)  Anyway, if you want insulation in the walls, you are far better off having them do it during construction than trying to add it your self later.

BTW, if you check out Bob's blog post on his cargo trailer, you'll see he attached the insulation to the inside of the plywood and left it exposed.

http://www.cheaprvliving.com/living-converted-cargo-trailer/
 
o3dave said:
I have that brand of trailer in 7x14. I went with 6" additional height and would do that again. I also added an additional roof vent that is a fantastic fan. I added 2 additional ceiling lights as the 1 that is included is not adequate. Upgrade to radial tires. Also extend the tongue to 42" allows you to access the tow vehicle tailgate easily. I went 12" on center floor and side wall joists to beef it up. Also insulate and finish the ceiling brightens it up and eliminates some rain noise. I wished I would have had an exterior light at the man door. Also I would have opted for a full rv door that included a screen door. The windows are a must. I don't believe it includes a 12 volt battery. I built a 3 battery box that powers the lights and fan.

Thanks for the info, Dave!  Just curious, how tall are you?  I read it had a ceiling height of 6'4" and I'm 5'10", is the extra height necessary or just nice to have for the extra roominess?
 
I too am 5'10" and the standard model felt very closed in. The trailer seems so much roomier with the additional height. Plus being finished on top is a nice touch for little money. My prior trailer was low roof and crappy wood finish and I never liked it. I will post some photos when I get home.
 
With the additional height trailer, the entry door is taller. I was told by several people that they consistently hit their heads going in and out of the regular height trailer. I found this to be true when looking at the regular trailers at the dealer. This trailer has a person entry door height of 6' 4".



 
That is a nice looking trailer! That finished ceiling looks great too.
 
Queen you have mobility issues with your knee.....although this may not effect you now ...but I would go with the 36" as a standard code door for handicap access.

It may help at a later time....
 
as far as tires go I find the trailer companies give you the cheapest tires they can get their hands on. if I was me I would take them tires to put on. o3dave I like the way your E-track is recessed, got any detail on that? highdesertranger
 
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