Can you de-computerize newer vehicles?

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becida,

Yeah, that's why I'm ok with these.
Now, if I was interested in something to play with alternate fuels, like woodgas or waste oil, I'd probably go with something older and more mechanical. For everyday use right now, I'm good.
 
It's all about efficiency

TECHNICAL
the ratio of the useful work performed by a machine or in a process to the total energy expended

A programmed computer can do this better than man.

Search air fuel ratio if interested.
 
now I have a totally different take. if a vehicle only goes 100k before major breakdowns I would be pissed, I don't care what year it is. on my 1978 Chevy I expect 250k out of a motor I rebuilt. I am well over that with my current engine that I rebuilt in 2001. no electronics and no major repairs. when I rebuild anything every wear part gets replace, no rebuilt stuff and no cutting corners on sub par parts. I have done a starter once and an alternator once and a radiator once in that time. if you are not getting well over 100k even with an older vehicle you are buying the wrong vehicles. highdesertranger
 
I was just thinking the other day that if in 1966 my fast back Mustang 289 V8 had aluminum heads with overhead cams, 32 valves, 50,000 volt ignition, fuel injection and a smooth bore exhaust I would have one of the most envied rides around but them I realized I just described the V8 in my wifes Toyota Sequioa. LOL!!!
 
Exactly why I have the last month Cummins 5.9 12 valve in my flatbed with 115k miles & the last year 7.3 IDI ambulance with 88k, both last year for diesels with no computers.
 
I personally wouldn’t do that . Like stated above there are laws and even if your state don’t do inspections, doing it will most likely hurt mpg and performance. Unless your wanting to hot rod out a newer van. If that’s the case , there are legal aftermarket parts for that. And I wouldn’t worry about an emp attack .
 
Highdesertranger you started with a non computer truck though . Wasn’t the poster asking about de computerizing an newer vehicle ? Or did I read it wrong ?
 
yes my truck is pre computer. my last post was referring to the members that were saying old vehicle only last 100k miles. in my first post I address the converting a new computer engine to a non computer. I haven't really studied the problem but I don't think it's even possible as new engines don't have distributers. they don't even have the ability to except one no hole in the block, no mounting location and no gear to drive one on the cam shaft. you would also have to cast your own intake manifold to accept a carb. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
I haven't really studied the problem but I don't think it's even possible as new engines don't have distributers.  they don't even have the ability to except one no hole in the block,  no mounting location and no gear to drive one on the cam shaft.  you would also have to cast your own intake manifold to accept  a carb.

And then there are things like converting from a drive-by-wire throttle that also controls transmission shift points.

Depending on the engine, you might not need to cast your own intake manifold. There are racing manifolds for current GM V8s.
 
Many 5.9 12 valve Cummins have lasted over 2 million miles trouble free towing new trailers from nortern Indiana. Totally mechanical & you can double the HP & Torque with a day of tuning & not a dime of parts. IMHO best engine made.
 
On a 1989 Econoline 350, would it be better to use gasoline w/o ethanol?
 
Smitty716 said:
IMO it would better but cost more .

TX Smitty, I think the old beast deserves the best fuel, to keep him going. :D 
I'll check the price difference.
 
My 1983 gmc pickup runs ok on regular gas , But it really likes it when I go to the station and get it some real 100% gas
 
highdesertranger said:
but with non ethanol fuel you will get more MPG.  highdesertranger

So I've heard.  Perhaps a higher price is equaled out by more mileage, and longer engine life too?
 
That’s right HDR , on that crappy gas they say has 10% ethanol here I am lucky to get 10 mpg
With real gas I can get close to 14 to 16 mpg . I need to rebuild my carb so who knows I might be able to get close to 18 once that’s done . I don’t think so but it’s worth wishing for . Shoot if I could get it up too 16 mpg steady I would sale my class c and build a enclosed trailer
 
I have a 1994 Chevy Suburban which has a OBD1 setup and while it's a great truck I only get 11-15 mpg while 1996 & up with OBD2 will get around 14 -18 regular driving and 15-21 when monitoring your MPG.
However a Love My Old Gray Lady!
 

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