What kind of vehicle would YOU recommend?

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Greenwink

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Western Washington
Hiya! I live in the US. I'm a newbie here & am still in the researching of vehicle phase. I'm open to any options that are close to what I need. If I have to, I'll demo the bed down to the frame & rebuild from there - my son's a welder, so lot's of options there. What I'm mainly looking for right now are options on size, ground clearance, cab, & engine. I'm going to want to mainly boondock, with the occasional hookup. I also want to be as self-sustainable as possible. This is what I'm looking for:

Engine: 
1. Either unleaded or diesel. Diesel would be converted to biodiesel. Also, be able to keep up with minimum hwy speed.
2. Mechanically reliable.
3. Can repair & maintain on my own without huge or heavy extra equipment; parts not too hard to find.
3. Standard or stick is fine.

Cab:
1. I'm 6"1', so lots of leg & head room.
2. Large windows with a good view of the road for safety's sake. Maybe the engine in the back for the same reason. This is preferable, but not a game changer.

Misc.:
1. The whole vehicle should be 20' - 40' long, including cab.
2. Close to, but no more than 8' wide. Want to be legal on the road without permits.
3. Good for boondocking, but won't be doing serious off-roading.
4. Want to build slide-outs and/or fold-out room extensions on both sides.
5. Don't know if this matters or not, but I'm looking to keep the whole thing to 13' high.

I probably left things out you'd like to know. I'm interested to see what any of you'd recommend either to look into or stay away from.

Thanks,
Sonja
 
couple of points,

newer diesels don't like bio-diesel. also if you plan on boondocking where are you going to get the bio from.

newer vehicles are way complicated and although most are good for a few hundred thousand miles after that you are on shaky ground. you are at the mercy of mechanics and in the sticks finding a good one might that knows how to fix you problem become an issue. yeah I know some go 500k with no problems but they are the exception.

most boondocking relies on driving on dirt roads. rear engines are not the best choice for dirt roads. also slides don't like dirt roads. they get misaligned. this has nothing to do with "serious off roading" but just plain old driving on dirt roads.

highdesertranger
 
Except for the slide-out part, sounds like you want a school bus.
 
You didn't say what your budget is. If it is substantial (like you are selling your home) you might consider an expedition vehicle.

A cheaper (but still not cheap) option would be a slide-in camper on a dually pick-up. This would keep your dwelling and vehicle separate - like pulling a trailer, but more mobile. They also make slide in campers with lots of slides and amenities (and they are officially RVs.)

My DW and I are on a tighter budget (living on social security) and have an older (cheaper, but sturdy) class A motorhome with a toad and one slide. It's a 36 footer, and with my little toad it's over your length limit, but you could get a shorter class C for only one person and be close to your length requirement pulling a toad (or perhaps carry a motorbike on the back to get around on). We have 620 watts of solar, and our tanks are big enough for us to be self sufficient for the entire 14 day BLM limit without moving to dump and take on water or propane. This was an important consideration for us from a money saving/convenience aspect.

We boondock almost exclusively, and I have no problem finding boondocking locations that will accommodate my 54' long rig out west. This winter we'll be staying put for 4 months in an relatively affordable ($180/mo) FHU RV park near Brownsville, TX. Having that RIVA (RV manufacturer's compliance standards) sticker will allow you to access RV parks that accept older vehicles. Most RV park's insurance policies forbid accepting campers without it. You probably don't want to stay at RV parks that exclude older vehicles as these are rather spendy (and snooty.)

Even if you don't plan on staying at RV parks much, they are handy to stay at for a night or two sometimes just to dump, take on water and make use of their facilities, such as showers and laundry (I've found a few with free laundry - score) especially for those with senior access passes for 1/2 price federal, COE (and some state) campgrounds. If not a senior yet, Passport America is great for brief 1/2 price CG stops.

BTW, you might want to rethink your diesel requirement. I first thought I'd go with diesel and bought a Ford truck to pull a trailer. But after the engine died and they wanted $15k for a new one I decided to go with a gas powered rig. Now, if the worst happens and my engine blows up, $4k will put a new one in, not $15k.

Chip
 
If I had to do it again, but differently ( because even after ten years I still really love my Peterbilt Motorhome conversion), and after giving this topic a great deal of thought in my head, here is what I would do:

Buy a low mileage white pickup truck; gas engine; 4 WD; at least a 250, 350 would be better; big V8 with lots of torque and towing capacity. I would not buy a diesel.

Purchase a nice commercial quality metal cap with opening doors along its length to be able to reach inside without getting inside. Install a pull out full bed length tray with drawers to be used for storage. On the top surface I would mount my Honda generator and six deep cycle batteries. On the roof of the cap I would mount two exhaust fans and my four Renogy 100 watt panels.

I would purchase a high-end all aluminum white cargo trailer and convert it to living space, beginning with commercially sprayed-in closed cell foam insulation on side walls and ceiling. Install a few windows with screens, RV style entrance door and three powered vent fans. Something in the 6x14 or 7x16 size; tandem axle, drop down rear cargo door. Not too big.

Th-th-that’s what I would do folks!

Just my opinion . . .
 
MrNoodly said:
Except for the slide-out part, sounds like you want a school bus.

OP says they want to build slides or fold outs. what is it about a school bus that would stop them?
 
I was thinking stepvan until he said windows, then school bus until he said slide outs. At this point I'm thinking a flatbed truck and doing a complete custom build on top of the bed. It's the most work of any option but I have seen some really amazing end results with people who went this route.
 
Mine is a diesel and I didn't want the complexity and added weight of slides.

My focus was to have more truck than my camper needed, keep top weight down as I, too, don't plan on rock climbing but wanted a vey stable base for emergency handling and steep slopes as remote boondocking for up to a month was my goal.
Build link is in signature
 

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Just my personal opinion......I prefer Japanese medium sized, what you yanks call box trucks (we call them pantecs)
Reason being
1. most down under are sold as cab chassis vehicles which you can swap the body off whenever you want to update the truck later or the house (box) part.

2. They are a tilt cab design allowing easy engine mechanical work to be done.

3. you can stand beside the engine doing any work. easy to check oil, water, hubs, brakes on a regular basis, less owner neglect.

4. ultra reliable Japanese diesel engines are used.

5. Older mechanical diesel injected ones are easy to fix yourself and can be run on bio diesels.

6. being a cab chassis, they can be bought in various arrangements dual cab, 4X4, long, short, medium wheelbase.

7. being a cab chassis rust is less so as the cabs are mounted higher away from road salts etc and the body can be made from other metals besides rust prone steel.

8. Being a cabover design they can be quite compact if you want as most of its chassis length can be the accommodation and not a large bonnet taking up space.

9. Being a box shape, they are simple to build within. no round roofs, insulation can be slotted between the uprights forming the box, no wheel wells to build around or ribbed flooring to build a false floor over.

10. a few box designs to choose from which can be built in a backyard while you decide what truck cab chassis you would like.
easy to build doors slideouts and windows into.ie insulated pantec box, drop deck box, snap on type box.

11. dual rear wheels which are more stable on the highways and dirt.

12. rear duals can still be driven if you encounter a blown out on one of the back tyres.

13. modern (1990s on) Japanese trucks are highway geared. my own has a dual range 10 speed gearbox and long legged rear axle.

14. great fuel economy
 
Hassle Free Caravan Set-Up

I have a 2019 Dodge Caravan that I have set-up in a way that provides both the comfort of home and maintains the stealth of being just another vacation traveler. Reading the many threads and watching various YouTube videos about hassles from people and police for being a van dweller, pooping in a bucket, etc., I wanted to be free and avoid the drama. My way isn't for everyone; but it works for me and maybe someone out there may benefit from my design too.

From the outside it's just another family minivan. I kept all the seats in tack, but folded down the rear bench seat and the left rear bucket seat. I screwed together a couple of 2x4's and attached a piece of 1/2" plywood to make a bed behind the driver's seat. The bed is only wood from the rear tailgate to the back of the bench seat, so the bench seat can still be folded back up to make my couch, or provide seating for passengers.

The left rear bucket seat is kept in the upright position providing me with a comfortable easy chair to eat, read and relax in. I use the folded down bench seat as a foot rest. All of the windows roll down which provides plenty of cross breeze ventilation.

I read about a vandweller that got hassles by police for having a poop bucket in his van, so I got rid of my "Luggable Lou" and replaced it with a 5 gallon round ice cooler. Same size, actually seals better and nobody has ever asked me if I poop in my cooler.

The Caravan has awesome storage space in the floor behind the front seats which is plenty big enough for all my cooking gear, stove, food etc. And it's not readily observable to onlookers (i.e. authorities), in fact, I have never had anyone ask if I am storing anything in my floor; including border officers when I go into Canada.

When i slide the front passenger seat forward all the way I can easily access the bed/lounge area from inside the van without drawing attention from outsiders. For those that may wonder about mobility room and bed comfort; I am 6'3" and the bed is 6'8" long. I am using 2 blue Walmart camping pads and 3 lawn chair cushions that are 6'5" long.

As I said; my way isn't for everyone, but I hope it encourages some out there to not let the lack of building skills keep you from enjoying your freedom. Have a great day all.
 
I assume you've watched all 400+ of Bob's videos...I have, and then some. a free education, and many many questions are answered.

There you'll see all types of vehicles, interviews with the people that live in them, pics of the past RTR with what a 40' vehicle looks like trying to get into a desert road, and tons of opinion and advice. I could list a hundred questions for you to consider based on what I've viewed, thought about, and built, but I wouldn't think of depriving you of the experience.

Happy journeys!

Larry
Aliner, Jeep, and self.
 
highdesertranger said:
couple of points,

newer diesels don't like bio-diesel.  also if you plan on boondocking where are you going to get the bio from.

Most newer turbo diesel engines and vehicles run fine on B20 (or less) biodiesel. In fact the engine warranties are normally in force up to that level of biodiesel blend. Many truck stops dispense biodiesel and it is legal and safe for on-highway heavy and light trucks with or without DEF and DPF.

But yeah, I think the OP is (by default) referring to B20 to B100 blends. Using that range of blend takes the engine manufacturer out of the warranty equation (if it's newer) and might involve modifications or repair, depending on the model year of the engine and its emissions equipment.
 
A truck camper would meet most of your requirements.  I have been full-timing in my 2007 6.0 Powerstroke F350 and 2013 Northstar 9.5 Igloo for about a month now.  My considerations were similar to yours.  Certain trucks can be very reliable.  I hear good things about the new Ford 6.7 Powerstroke diesel engines, and the 6.0 and 7.3 are legendary (if you fix a few well-known issues).  But the 6.4 (2008-2010) engines were bad, so you have to do your research when buying trucks.  A one-ton truck would give you plenty of leg and headroom with great visibility.  My truck and camper are 22’8” long from bumper to bumper, and 11’6” tall at the tallest point on the roof.  A one-ton 4x4 truck with single rear wheels and all terrain tires makes for a very off road-capable vehicle -- although definitely compromised by the top-heavy load of a truck camper.  You won’t go rock-climbing with a 3,000 lbs. camper on the bed, but you have good clearance, 4x4, and good wheels and tires for off-the-beaten-path places.  There are lots of truck camper models with slide-outs, but if you build your own, which it sounds like you are considering, then you can do whatever you want.
 
Hold off until the RTR, attend it, meet people and check out their rigs.  You will get personally check out every type of RV there is and I am sure there will be one that you really like.  Just show up with what you got now and a tent for the first one.
 
Don’t underestimate being able to stand up. I think that’s the most complaints I hear from people that have to stoop
 
Itripper said:
Hold off until the RTR, attend it, meet people and check out their rigs.  You will get personally check out every type of RV there is and I am sure there will be one that you really like.  Just show up with what you got now and a tent for the first one.
I completely agree! I went to the 2019 RTR expecting to have settled on a cargo van conversion and left there settled on a step van instead. I think step vans are the most overlooked conversion platform, especially for a solo traveler. 

When you take the wall out between the cab and box, you get all the natural light you could ever want without having to cut in windows. They make great use of the passenger space, it becomes your main way in and out of the van. Taking that wall out effectively adds 5 feet to the main box. The other thing is all the box length choices, anywhere between 10' - 22'
 
If I were living in northern California right now, where thousands have been ordered to leave.....I'd have recommended them to set up a "Bug Out
Car".   If anyone lives in a disaster prone area, one of these can be a safety escape vehicle or a limited range RV.   People tend to believe that they are safe when they are in familiar surroundings or in the midst of groups with other people.   But having a RV of about any kind that is prepped & ready to go in immediately may be the key to your very survival.   Fires, Floods, Tornadoes, Hurricanes, or man made disasters by corporations may come anyone's way.
 
Theres 2 kinds of boondocking. BLM is usually wide open but short rutted out dirt/sand roads with random fire rings signaling a place to camp. This is 2/3 of the year generally. Internet usually good and towns within 20 minutes. The other 1/3 is summer in NF highlands. Those are usually washboarded but maintained gravel roads that go on for 1hr+ @ 5mph into the mountains. Often a 3k+ ft climb and spotty to zero reception. The camps are usually any area you see to pull off and usually has a fire ring or rock ring someone has made. Most of the time rig size is not an issue. Anywhere too tight for a RV I wouldnt bother without a 4x4 anyway. Being alone its not worth risking anything.
 
A early 1970s GMC Motorhome has the best driving view of any vehicle I have driven!  Those huge windows are excelent for traveling.  The rear panel can be modified to open.  Expect about $20,000 for a renovated reliable one.

A Stepvan made to look like a motorhome would make an excllent platform to  build anything you want.  I saw one on youtube that had an rv door on the side and graphics similar to a motorhome.  I would re commend an Aluminium Box bcause they don't rust, the 12 valve Cummins Diesel engine is popular Bio-Diesel upgrade.

I prefer the good old 5.7 gas V8 (350 cubic inch) and an Automatic Transmission.  Very reliable and any mechanic can work on it.

You are only limited by your budget.

Good luck!
 
Gypsy Freedom said:
OP says they want to build slides or fold outs. what is it about a school bus that would stop them?
The Thomas and BlueBird bus bodies are stress skin designs and are a lose a lot of body strength when they have holes cut in the skin. It can be done, however the holes will almost always need to be framed to retain the roof strength and prevent the skin from buckling during use.
 
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