Brake Upgrades due to Road Ragers

[GrayWhale]

Do you guys have problem with people getting mad at you driving your van full of stuff, too slow? I mean sure, you can just ignore them, but some of them will cut you off real close in city traffic, upon approaching a red light or something.  And now you have to stand on your brakes to stop and not rear end them, which will be your fault (unless you have a video or witnesses that are willing to stop to give you their info).

I'm literally scared to drive during rush hour in my van. 2000 Dodge B1500 V8 Conversion Hightop, but still chugging hard to lug all the stuff inside. It was quite peppy when I first bought it, but was empty (other than all the conversion van amenities). Now it's just sloooooowwwwww. I can't imagine people going with a V6.

So for better braking w/o spending too much, I'm thinking of:

1)  performance brake pads
2)  steel braided brake hoses
3)  slotted rotors?  (not sure, heard about warping problems with these)

Anything else?

 

[NeedAnEscape]

Are your tires locking up, and ABS (if your van has it) kicking in? If yes, gripper tires will help much more than upgraded brakes. Unless the breaks are unable to lock the tires then upgrading brakes doesn't do much for a single panic stop.

 

[TMG51]

I don't have that problem. I'm the guy driving faster than the other people and weaving my giant vanhouse in and out of traffic during rush hour. No idea how much my van weighs but I get by fine with front disc brakes and rear drums.

 

[GrayWhale]

Do you mean tires that will stick better, like high performance, softer, summer type tires?

The tires I have on now are "touring tires" and are pretty new. It's gonna suck to just trash them for new tires, ouch. I looked at tirerack.com and the only high performance tire options are the ones rated to 118 MPH for this B1500 van, for $80-100/each. Probably close to what I have right now.

What I really want are the "on/off road/all terrain" tires, but only after these tires have worn out. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...ear=2000&autoModel=Ram Van B1500&autoModClar=

But these don't grip that well on normal, dry roads though right?

I haven't activated ABS yet, as I still brake with a lot of control. I'm pretty sure that I do have ABS (there's an ABS light). If the rear are drum brakes, then that means I only have ABS on the front disc brakes, right?

 

[ccbreder]

if your van is over-loaded, the brakes are not the only danger.

 

[firebob]

Some times you can go with a wider tire and rim to give you a larger footprint on the road.
I did a quick search of your van and it looks like it came with vented disk not drilled or slotted.

I might be reading the info wrong, but it looks to me as the drums are abs and the disks were optional abs.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I don't know that I would throw away brake pads and shoes that still have a lot of life on them, but if they need replacing anyway, I would definitely go for premium pads and probably for the steel braided brake hose, which apparently makes for a firmer feeling pedal.  As for the slotted rotors, seems like the jury is still out on them. 

Dash cams have become VERY inexpensive, and you might want to look into one to help prove you aren't at fault if one of these idiots does cause you to get in an accident.

As for rush hour traffic, now that I'm retired, I see no reason to drive in it at all.

 

[MrNoodly]

I think brakes are the wrong end of your problem. Either your engine has something wrong or the van is overloaded. Your Dodge probably has a 318 cubic inch engine. The engine in my Chevy van is slightly smaller than that and it has no problem keeping up with traffic (except on some steep grades). The load capacity of a 2000 Dodge Ram Van 1500 is about 2,000 pounds. The 2500 version of the van is rated for almost 1.5 tons. The 3500, almost two tons. So if you think your van is "full of stuff" and that it has to "lug all the stuff inside," then what the hell are you transporting? Scrap iron and anvils? No, probably not. It's just that your engine is way down on power. Or that your transmission is slipping. Sadly, both could be expensive fixes.

 

[TrainChaser]

"And now you have to stand on your brakes to stop and not rear end them, which will be your fault (unless you have a video or witnesses that are willing to stop to give you their info)."

If you do have an accident, and someone does stop, just getting their name and number is useless. The cop won't pay any attention. If they won't stay long enough to talk to the cop, they're worthless for that kind of situation.

 

[steamjam1]

Do you guys have problem with people getting mad at you driving your van full of stuff, too slow? I mean sure, you can just ignore them, but some of them will cut you off real close in city traffic, upon approaching a red light or something.  And now you have to stand on your brakes to stop and not rear end them, which will be your fault (unless you have a video or witnesses that are willing to stop to give you their info).

I'm literally scared to drive during rush hour in my van. 2000 Dodge B1500 V8 Conversion Hightop, but still chugging hard to lug all the stuff inside. It was quite peppy when I first bought it, but was empty (other than all the conversion van amenities). Now it's just sloooooowwwwww. I can't imagine people going with a V6.

So for better braking w/o spending too much,  I'm thinking of:

1)  performance brake pads
2)  steel braided brake hoses
3)  slotted rotors?  (not sure, heard about warping problems with these)

Anything else?

My Ford RV is also just a half ton with a 5.0L/OD transmission and its SLOWWWWW. Because of its weight, and half ton brakes, it can be sketchy stopping it. About the only thing I can do is upgrade to 3/4 ton brakes for the Ford. For a Dodge it means your going 1-ton because B1500 and 2500 share the same brakes. But luckily no welding required. Its all bolt together.

 

[highdesertranger]

stay out of the cities where these road raggers congregate. oh yeah weigh your van. highdesertranger

 

[speedhighway46]

Tribe:

I know my vehicle is significantly different than most everyone else's, so I am always cautious when I reply to a thread such as this one so not to waste everyone's time. That said, I'd like to address the non-hardware perspective of driving a vehicle on the lower end of the speed limit, which is what I do all the time. But, this is a driving method you must "learn" how to do as some of it requires a new perspective.

Here are my suggestions, as follows:

1> Your days of "day dreaming", texting, and doing personal hygiene as you go down the road are gone forever. When you get into your vehicle driving it is your only task. If your brain isn't in that frame of mind, don't drive.

2> Situational awareness: you must constantly be scanning all four sides of your vehicle all the time. Traffic conditions are dynamic. When moving you must always know the condition of the traffic flow around you looking for the hot-shot who is getting ready to cut you off, or stop short in front of you, or change lanes with no signal. You must have good mirrors with those convex spot mirrors to see who is along side of you. You must account for every vehicle every second that are in your "space."

3> Turn on your lights ALL the time. Use your turn signals ALL the time. Become a better driver than 99% of other drivers. Become predicable to traffic around you.

4> Drive defensively ALL the time.

5> Have an escape plan 100% of the time as traffic changes around. By not following too close you have a moment to execute your plan. When the asshole in front of you slams on their brakes, you already have an escape plan; execute it.

To finish up, I keep a little list inside my truck which I read over just before I get under way; it works for me. Helps put my brain right.

This will take care of 95% of "close calls" significantly reducing your potential hazards. The other 5%? Best of luck to us "slow goers!"

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

There are safe driving classes that will reduce your insurance premiums 10% for several years.  Your insurance agent can give you a list of them in your area.

I know we all like to think we're great drivers and there's nothing such a course can teach us, but you might be surprised what you learn taking one.

 

[ArtW]

Taking a DSC is never a bad idea, I always see bad habits that have crept into my driving

 

[Ballenxj]

2000 Dodge B1500 V8 Conversion Hightop, but still chugging hard to lug all the stuff inside. It was quite peppy when I first bought it, but was empty (other than all the conversion van amenities). Now it's just sloooooowwwwww. I can't imagine people going with a V6.

How much weight do you think you have added? From what you describe this sounds like it may be your problem.
Anybody that has raced cars, and was fairly good at it can tell you the lighter the car, the faster you can go. Of course more power in the engine department helps a lot too.
Another benefit of being lighter is better fuel economy.
About people cutting you off, then slamming on the brakes, there are A-Holes everywhere. just assume that when somebody cuts you off they might slam on the brakes too. Be ready for that by easing off the gas a bit more while ready to hit the brakes. 
As an aside, watch for fast drivers before you pull out. Just because you are in the right doesn't necessarily make it right.
If you do pull out in that situation, only do so if there is room to get around you. If you don't, you will inevitably piss somebody off, especially if they are in a hurry. Don't be that guy!
If you are driving a slow vehicle, drive it accordingly.
I met a young couple living in a VW microbus. They had a large yellow caution sign affixed to the back that warned "Slow Vehicle." He said he could tell by the expression on their faces that people were mad when then first got behind him, then after they read he sign they just laughed.

 

[SternWake]

Not pissing off the short attention span, texting, overwhelmingly self important drivers of today is a good idea. If they need to get around you and accellerate to that redlight to check their instagram account, let them do so A little courtesy goes a long way, even if the person you are being courteous to might not deserve it and is likely a contemptible individual on so many levels.

Sounds like this 1500 van is overloaded. It is easy to do.

BUt the engine might not be making full power, and/or the brakes could need some work.

The rear drums are supposed to self adjust. They seem to prefer not to, and the fronts take up more and more of the stopping load. I rotate my tires more often than necessary and when I do so I pull off the drums and manually adjust them so that the drum just barely slides back over them., then back off one more click on the star adjuster so they do not drag.

Also the long life brake pads are a trade off in stopping power. Great marketing term though, long life In practice though it could mean an accident.

I had a set of LL pads, and one panic stop, with both feet on the brake pedal and it at the end of its range, I slowed down slowly, just barely able to stop in time before hitting the Mercedes which decided to switch lanes at the last second on a down hill stretch and come to a stop about 8 carlanes before she had to, checking her phone.

My front brakes have new Calipers and Hawk HPS brake pads. These have extreme bite and my brakes went from anemic to downright impressive.

If you are afraid of your brakes, you should be afraid to drive. remedy this somehow, whether with less weight in vehicle and or making sure your rear drums are sdjusted correctly and the fronts are also operating as they should.

A simple pad slap could have a huge effect if the pads on there now are a 15 dollar set of long life pads.

My Hawk HPS pads were 70$ and now, Knowing how well they work, I'd pay 100.

 

[Ballenxj]

My front brakes have new Calipers and Hawk HPS brake pads.  These have extreme bite and my brakes went from anemic to downright impressive.

<---snip----->

A simple pad slap could have a huge effect if the pads on there now are a 15 dollar set of long life pads.

My Hawk HPS pads were 70$ and now, Knowing how well they work, I'd pay 100.

I had a set of high quality high dollar ceramic pads installed on the front rotors of my van. My B2500 van will stop quicker than my Subaru AWD Legacy.
I have to be careful when switching vehicles now as the van will stop so fast now with very little brake pedal pressure that you think your going to fly through the windshield.

 

[SternWake]

Agree. Since I installed the hawk HPS pads, I drive few vehicles that require less brake pressure to stop and this is opposite of what the long life brake pads felt like

After I broke the pads in according to thier directions, which is designed to deposit a thin even layer of brake pad material on the cleaned, sanded rotors, I did a brake test at 40 MPH and the fronts locked up and shocked me.

This is with slightly oversized tires. Bigger tires are like a longer lever, making brakes work even harder to perform same task.

Dodge van calipers need to be properly lubed so that the pads do not kink sideways in the ways. I needed some time with a file to ensure my ways were smooth and the new pads could not get stuck in a kinked position. Also the anti rattle clips need to allow the calipers to slide in and out easily. I had ignored this in the past due to some ignorance and am ashamed to admit it.

If you see the pads have worn tapered, thicker on one end than the other, this is caused by improper lubrication of the ways on which the caliper and brake pads reside.

If one cannot do this themselves, and their brakes make noise when not braking, the brakes are in need of help and should be attended to pronto.

There is much more to properly operating brakes than just its ability to slow a vehicle.

These rotors were still able to stop the vehicle:

Such a brake rotor should have vehicle owner/driver publicly shamed and humiliated relentlessly, made to stand on a corner with a sign that said, ' I am too ignorant to care how my overwhelming ignorance could affect others, please throw your feces at me, I deserve it'

 

[Gunny]

 

[Ballenxj]

Back to my original question, how much weight is he carrying? Too much weight will exhibit the same symptoms of no apparent power, to hard braking.