Be sure to run the cr*p out of your Webasto (and probably Chinese heater) often

[Vannautical engineer]

I finished building my van last spring, complete with a Webasto gasoline heater. Since I got it finished just as the weather was warming up, the need to use the heater since then has been pretty rare. I would say when sleeping overnight, I used it probably no more than five nights, always on a pretty low setting.

About a week ago I was about to take the van on a trip when I knew I would need to use the heater, so I figured I would just fire it up before I left on the trip just to make sure everything was working. I turned the control knob on to full blast, I could hear the heater ignite, so I figured everything was good. I went in my house to grab something, came back out after less than a minute, and to my dismay I noticed that the heater had actually shut itself down.

I decided to just let the heater do its thing and see if it would get itself going again. Sure enough, about a minute later it ignited again. But I noticed a small black puff of smoke come out of the exhaust when it did.

After it did this, I let it run on full blast for about 40min to get all the carbon burnt out of it, and it worked flawlessly all of the nights when I needed it on my trip.

Moral of the story? If you have a Webasto or probably any other gas/diesel burning heater, you need to be sure to crank it up to high and get it to burn out any carbon buildup that might be present. This seems to be especially true if you're like me and normally only need to run it on a pretty low setting to heat up your space. I had seen in a youtube video where one of the Webasto dealers recommended doing this about every month, but in my case, normally using it at a low level, I think I need to do it even more often. I'm even considering changing how I use the heater to avoid any more carbon buildup issues. I'm convinced now that any reviews or comments you see about people saying these heaters are unreliable are from people who constantly use them on low and never crank them up. I think I came fairly close to being someone with a heater that would no longer ignite due to carbon buildup.

 

[Camper]

They do need to be run on high often, it seems.

I went with a simple vented propane heater.

I have new diesel heaters to give away to those who can't afford a new heater.

 

[hugemoth]

On the diesel heaters I've found that carbon build up isn't a problem as long as the air/fuel ratio is correct. Run too rich and you get carbon. They tend to come rich from the factory, they put out more heat that way. Most controllers are adjustable, but not all. A CO meter is a must for getting the proper mix.

 

[maki2]

In case you did not realize it you need to get rid of old diesel from the previous heating season. True it does keep good longer than gasoline. However it can go bad more quickly from high temperatures. Lots of times in the summer the heat builds up in a closed, parked vehicle. So if it has been a few months and you have been in hot weather get rid of the old fuel , rinse the tank to remove any sediments and start the heating season with fresh diesel in the fuel container.

You get that thick sluddgy varnish like stuff in the carburator and it will indeed run badly. Then you will have a whole lot more work than just changing out the fuel.

 

[maki2]

If you were to read the maintenance manual on the Webasto heater you would find that it states..

Run the heater for at least 10 minutes once every month to keep fuel in the lines and also to keep the fuel pump lubricated.

You do not need to "run the crap out of it" apparentely a 10 minute long run every 4 weeks is a sufficent amount of time. At least it is true for a good quality heater.

Add it to the calendar on your cell phone as a recurring monthly reminder.

 

[Vannautical engineer]

Ah good point, I was not thinking about the fact that I may have had some old gas and/or bubbles in the lines when I ran it for the first time in months. I will need to remember to run it every now and then, even in the summer.

 

[PeterPiper]

I try to stay away from BioDiesel if possible.
Likewise, I try to use Ethanol free gasolines when possible.
I ALWAYS use Ethanol free gasolines in my generators, lawn equipment, presure washers etc. and then add Stabil Blue Marine 360.

https://www.qdogfuels.com/what-is-the-difference-between-clear-and-dyed-diesel-fuel/
Clear diesel – Clear diesel is a road vehicle-grade fuel that is available for sale at gas stations throughout the U.S. This type of fuel is meant for use by the vehicles that travel the roads every day – cars, trucks, SUVs, etc. – along with marine vehicles. When most people think of diesel fuel, this is the fuel they think of.

Clear fuel has low sulfur levels and is legally taxable. Any vehicle that has a diesel engine and is licensed by the state for on-road use must use this fuel.
Red-Dyed diesel – Most dyed diesel sold in the U.S. is colored red (with the chemical additive Solvent Red 26 or 164). By law, red-dyed gas is only for use in off-road vehicles, including farm tractors, heavy construction equipment, and generators, where higher sulfur fuel use is permissible.

Because it is not to be used for on-road vehicles, this fuel is not taxed within the United States.
Blue-Dyed diesel – Blue-dyed diesel is identical to Red-dyed diesel, except that it is used only for U.S. Government vehicles. Blue-dyed diesel is not available to the general public.


https://www.waspystruckstop.com/diesel-fuel-types/Diesel #2 (2-D) & Diesel #1 (1-D)

Diesel #2 is typically used by truck drivers across the country. Because diesel is rated by its cetane level, it is important to note that truckers use this type of fuel for a reason. A very important one. Cetane levels determines how fast the fuel burns and how ignitable it is. Therefore, diesel #2 is purchased by truck drivers because it is significantly less volatile. Because truckers are carrying heavy loads and are driving for long periods of time, using the less flammable fuel is necessary. Furthermore, it has better fuel economy as well.

Diesel #1 is more volatile compared to diesel #2; however, diesel #1 flows more easily and is more efficient in colder temperatures. This is why it is sometimes called winter diesel. Not only is diesel #1 not prone to freeze in sub-zero temperatures, but it is easier on the engine too. It has a quicker starter period which lessens the wear on the engine’s battery.