Alternative to plywood?

[CarCampire]

Salutations!

Short and sweet: I am looking for a cheaper, less heavy, warp-resistant, alternative to plywood.

<img src="" width="1175">

Longer version: I was doodling the inside layout of a camper-van when it dawned on me;

“Man- that’s a lot of plywood…”

A regular sheet of 4x8 plywood (I believe it’s ½ or ¾” width) can be about 80LBs, give or take the moisture content as wood is absorbent and let’s not forget about its tendency to appeal to mildew, warping fibers, rotting, splinters… ok, maybe I’m being ‘nit-picky’ but there are quite a few cons a vehicle dweller may take into consideration when building their interior’s main pieces out of wood.

Does anyone know about a better product out there that can hold up to plywood’s structural standards but is less weight and cheaper?

 

[AltTransBikes]

It's a good question and valid concerns all way round, something I'm mulling as well. Overall I think the tendency is to overbuild too much. Personally I see little need for 2 x 4's or 3/4" ply in a van build, rather use smaller dimensional stuff: 1x1 1x2 2x2 and 1/2" ply and under.

Here's an idea of weight in lbs. for various materials per square foot
Masonite:
1/8": .59
1/4": 1.19

Plywood:
1/8": .42
1/4": .80
1/2": 1.52

Particle Board:
1/4": .75
1/2": 1.94

MDF:
1/4": .79
1/2": 1.58

One thing I keep in mind when choosing materials is VOC's used in their manufacture.

 

[66788]

Plywood is a lot stronger, lighter, and more stable than the alternatives of OSB, particle board, or MDF.

I don't think it's as heavy as you think. I just carried a sheet of 5/8 ply and I'd guess it weighs about 30 pounds.

On my Dodge build I'm framing the cabinets with 2x2 pine and then applying melamine over the framing to compete the finished look. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

 

[Seeker]

I agree as I just did my floor with 3/4 plywood because I already had it and was thinking about how much extra weight it was.

Do not know what I will use for the rest of the build yet.

I will probably use slats for top of bed as I am sure it will be lighter than plywood. . . maybe I better weigh one and see.
A SEEKER

 

[MikeRuth]

I too am concerned with my over all weight once I finish up and I agree that 1/2" or 1/4" should be good in many places.
I did do my floor with 3/4" as I didn't want any of the rippling to show. But even 1/2" I bet would have been OK.
I'm not sure yet how much cabinetry I'm going to have(BTW would you draw mine up too )JK. I'm going to use the lightest I can.

 

[AltTransBikes]

Sheet Goods Weights

http://www.comptonlbr.com/weight-sheet.html

 

[Willy]

Edge glued pine planks, come nicely sanded too, are available in different lengths/widths and make for strong shelving. ..Willy.

 

[MikeRuth]

Geeze, no wonder my back hurts after lifting a 3/4" plywood sheet!!!

Wheres my helper???? Huh????

 

[adi]

Just wanted to add in. The alternative that is available, MDF, is also heavy, but will basically disintegrate when subjected to moisture, which most vans will have.

An alternative that will hold up well is outlined here. You use 2x1 (ish) framing and glue/bond thinner sheets of plywood to either one or both sides as needed. This lets you have a nicely finished product that is much lighter than full 1/2 or 3/4 inch plywood.

 

[Lafnbug]

I'm toying with the idea of PVC tubing/pipe and coroplast, which is corrugated plastic. The idea is to create a skeletal structure out of the white plastic pipe, and cover the exterior with the fairly rigid coroplast.

Like other have stated, I can't see overkilling on structural integrity, as I'm not planning on carrying any heavy items other than a fridge and batteries, and those will be on the floor anyway. If I come up with a good construction method, I'll be sure to post the results!

Look up a site called High Mileage Trikes And More, that guy has done some pretty interesting things with coroplast!

 

[MrNoodly]

You can accomplish some of this with metal racks -- the kind with vertical tubes and wire shelves. Then a variety of plastic bins and boxes could go on the shelves to organize smaller items. And don't forget all that room under the bed.

Also, the framework for parts that won't be carrying a lot of weight can be built with 1x2' or even 1x1s. And if you keep things in boxes and bins, you won't need a slab of plywood separating your compartments. But if you want an enclosed look, the lightweight frames can be covered with very thin plywood.

For even more reduced weight, you can use hole saws, like the ones used to drill door for knobs and locks, and cut a pattern of holes in some of the panels.

However, the plan you show looks kind of questionable to me, unless you're a very small person. I suggest building your plan in the actual van first with cardboard so you can see whether what you've drawn actually fits and whether there's room left for yourself. A lot of things that look good on paper don't work out in reality. Like there's the matter of the walls being curved.

 

[highdesertranger]

when I did van conversions, way back when dinosaurs roamed(late 70's). all the cabinets were built out of 1x2 pine and 1/8" paneling (the real kind made out of plywood). they still build many motor homes and trailers this way. this is light weight and fairly strong. if we made beds we would use 2x2 pine and 1/2 ply. floors were covered with 1/2 plywood, foam, and carpet. walls were cover with the same 1/8 paneling as the cabinets. the reason for the 1/8 plywood paneling is you can bend it to conform to the contours of the van. can't do that with the phony stuff, it snaps. this made for a light weight conversion. hope this helps. highdesertranger

 

[CarCampire]

Salutations again!

AltTransBikes Thank you for the material weights! Completely forgot about Masonite- still; it looks porious- will have to research it a bit more. Was looking at plastic-alternatives.

Good advise about the over-built though. Im still new to planning but trust me when I say I’ve got 42 pages of different layouts and this one seem’s to work well – for now. XD

Also- THANK YOU for the weight chart!


66788 – Would love to see some pix. Please do!


A SEEKER – I hear the ¾” is best to use on the floor’s after insulating as anything less tend’s to bend atop the insulation. Gotta have a good foundation. I know it’s heavy but even if I found a good structural alternative, I will likely use the ¾” on the floor.


MikeRuth – Heh, if you have the dimentions I could do a little doodle to scale. XD
My scale was ½” = 1FT. Very easy with a ruler. Im tempted to post some more now.
Thanks for the mentioning of ½” and ¾” – would likely use it for the vertical pieces but the ¾” or 1” for the desk as I don’t want that area to pow down because of my laptops weight.


Willy- wouldn’t the Edge glued pine planks bow with weight in the middle over 3ft span?
I read one of your earlier posts on coroplast – been looking into ways to incorporate the suff in my doodles ever since. Have any other plastic-related alternatives you know of?


Adi – Yea, the MDF is a no-go because of the moisture problem that is bound to happen with a spill or simply over time due to breathing while sleeping in a small space. Us humans are 80% water after all.


Lafnbug – Im looking for a plastic-based plywood-like structure as well now. Im looking for poly-sheet like material but they always seem to be sold in packs of MUCH more than I need- so my search continues. I would like to hear more about your idea though. 

Also- I’ve seen igh Mileage Trikes And More; wonderful creations. Thanks!


MrNoodly- The room I have under the bed is essentially the height of the toop of the wheel well to the insulated and ¾”ply-covered floor… Might be able to fit some boots under there but that’s it.

Im greatful for the idea though- and the tips and tricks with the cardboard test / hole-pattern idea.

Here’s the current plan from a couple of different angles;

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<img src="" width="1175">

<img src="" width="1175">

This plan is essentially for a ‘hub’ to come back to at night, relax, maybe eat something, go on the computer for a few hours and sleep. The rest of my day would be out and about. So essentially I would be living ‘out of’ the van as opposed to ‘in’.


Highdesertranger- Plywood is defiantly good in some applications, but seeing as it’s been used in motor-homes for so long it looks like I might have to just go with it. Thanks for the mention of the bending and conforming to walls- almost forgot about that. Hehe

 

[Luisafernandes]

I use premium maple plywood from Lowes, 1/4 on the walks and ceiling and 1/2 for most everything else.
I think it good to plan, I did the same, but as you build one thing you might find out that something else might go better there.
If you're going to do the bed like I did sideways across the wheel wells, then my humble advise is that you do that first, then build from there using your bed frame as attachment points.
Lowes has this thin plastic like product 4' by 8' sheets that I almost used. Problem was it needs to be glued to a solid surface. So I just used the plywood.
In the end, use what makes you feel comfortable.

 

[amwbox]

Kudos for the wonderful drawings, btw.

I've been thinking about taking some detailed measurements and building a 3D CAD model of an E-series interior with solidworks. Might be helpful around here to have detailed dimensions.

 

[LeeRevell]

So, your driver's seat is on the right, if I am reading the drawing correctly. From a man's perspective, there is far too much space used for hanging clothes...... but I know ladies think differently.
The mid-mounted bed seems odd, but again, just a personal perspective. Have you considered a sofa/bed that could double as seating? No front passenger seat?

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

It looks like the right side door to the back of the van will be totally blocked off and non-functional. You plan to only use the front doors to enter and exit the van?

Will your rear closet be built in such a way that you will still be able to use the back doors as an emergency exit if there is a fire in the front?

Regards
John

 

[Willy]

The edge glued pine is essentially a buncha 1x2 (or 3) lengths glued together on the 1" side (actually abt 3/4"). It's stiffer than plywood of equivalent dimensions and, since the strips have different grains (tho still the same general orientation), it's very resistant to warping. Less glue is used, vs ply/particle board, and the planks come already finish sanded. ..Willy.

 

[loess]

Lafnbug, I'm thinking of going with coroplast as well. I got a bunch of scraps for cheap from a sign shop. I hadn't thought of PVC, that's a good idea. I was just going to use 1x1s. Curious how do you plan to affix the PVC to the walls of the vehicle, and the coroplast to the PVC?

By the way, 'tis the season for free coroplast -- election time is right around the corner and that means free signs once its over!

 

[decodancer]

This is an old picture, sorry don't have recent ones. With the exception of my bed which is 3/4 inch ply, I've used 1/4 inch Luanne (sp?) on everything. Framed out with 1x2s it's plenty strong and stains or paints beautifully. Lowes has some that looks like tiger maple, I have that on my ceiling and left it natural. I did use 1/4 inch formica board (the stuff they use in bathrooms) on the front of my grooming bathtub. I'll be using that as my sink when traveling.