All that maintenance stuff you need to know

[Gideon33w]

If forced to make a generalization I would quantify the qualify the average vandweller as an independent spirit, driving a used van, learning most of what they need to know as they go.

Seeing as how your van is a very complicated combination of machines you are entirely dependent upon it ... the Learning As You Go method is a rather asinine.

I understand that not everyone is a grease monkey but it is very important that you apply that independent spirit into the knowledge, skills, and equipment needed to keep you home on wheels alive and assist yourself in being truly independent. 

With that in mind, this is my attempt to cover the maintenance info that is sorely needed by our community. Many of you are knowledgeable but many more of you need a reference sheet to skip the headaches and grief which come from not properly maintaining your vehicle.

I'll do my best the break this down into categories. It is important that you review ALL the categories and not just the ones YOU think need addressing. Also note that these are generalized bits of info and vehicle specific things arise. It's important for you to learn what does and doesn't apply and where there may be holes in this info that apply to your vehicle.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Knowledge & Planning

- There's no replacement for these. Knowing your vehicles shortcomings ahead of time can save you thousands of dollars and countless hours. 

- Manuals. The single best piece of knowledge at you disposal is a hard copy manual. Be it a Haynes Manual, Chiltons Manual, or FSM (Factory Service Manual). You can't rely on the internet because you never know what your access will be when you have issues. Despite space being at a premium you need to get yourself a hard copy. These manuals cover nearly everything you could ever need or want to do on your vehicle from oil changes, to engine rebuilds, to electrical diagrams. Do be aware that many online downloads of FSMs lack the addendums which your manufacturer added later and therefor may have inaccurate info.

- Forums! No, I don't mean this one. While there's plenty of knowledgeable people on here there's just too many year/make/model/trim specific items which can influence the answers you need. At this point, every vehicle you can think of has a forum dedicated to it. These are the ones you need to find, join, and read through. Not only are they packed with specific info they are filled with people who are passionate about your same vehicle. Meaning that help is easy to come by. 

- Youtube. Whether it's a generic maintenance channel like ChrisFix (you should subscribe), a random video by Jim-Bob who happened to have the same issue as you 7 years ago, or a channel from a reputable maintenance company who just likes putting out videos. This is a repository of visual knowledge. Being able to see exactly what you need to do can be a huge help.

- Planning. Now that you've dedicated a huge chunk of time to filling your brain up with all the info related to your vehicle you need to apply it. Create a maintenance log book and hold yourself to keeping track of what needs doing and what was done when. Figure out those common failure items for your vehicle and consider carrying spares. Create a check list of items to look over before heading out on a long drive. It may seem simple but these things are all too easy to skip.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Vehicle & Equipment

- Vans. Doesn't matter if you already have yours or you're looking for one. Review my thread on common van issues and take the info inside into consideration. All have upsides and downsides and they vary depending on many factors. This ties right into the knowledge section. Don't buy a Ford and wonder why your heater wont blow hot. Don't buy a Chevy and be confused why you're losing coolant. Don't buy a Dodge and be surprised when your transmission starts giving you grief. Choose your van as carefully as possible and give it the love it needs BEFORE you start living in it.

- Tools. Craftsman tools are your friend. They are the best quality cheap tools you can buy and are more than sufficient for 99% of your needs. 

- If your vehicle has grease fittings you need a grease gun and grease. If your vehicle has even a single Torx bit be sure to buy a set. Don't forget to add universal joints and extra extensions to your socket set. 

- Brake kits are huge and expensive but a jumbo C clamp which fits your caliper works just as well, buy one. 

- A couple torque wrenches are a must. Many items need to be torqued to specific values and even a life long mechanic can only get close without a torque wrench. They are expensive but you need them. 

- A multimeter is a must for diagnosing electrical issues. Some extra wire of various gauges can be handy too.

- A couple different funnels and a hand pump siphon are handy. 

- Don't be cheap! You depend on your van for so much there is no way to justify cheap parts. Not to mention that they usually cost you more in the long run. 

- If you have a place to ship to one of the best sources for parts is Rockauto.com. I've used them for many years and have rarely had an issue. Otherwise, Orielly, Autozone, and Pepboys are your new best friends. If you're lucky enough to be near a NAPA try them first. They tend to have more knowledgeable staff to assist you. All have rewards programs that typically offer $5 in rewards for every $100 spent. 

- Nothing is worse than needing to get your vehicle back on the road, having the parts you need, having the tools you need, but it's dark and you don't have enough light to do the job. Crazy frustrating. Invest in a few different portable lighting options. Rechargable is better. Magnets and hooks on them are helpful too.

- Find yourself one of those rare earth magnets on an extendable wand. A lost bolt or socket can stop your repair dead in its tracks.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Engine

- I have covered several of the engine subsystems elsewhere so if you don't see it here that means you can find it below or it's something I don't think the average person should mess with.

- The engines found in vans and minivans can be broken into two catagories. Pushrod and Over Head Cam (OHC). Pushrod is tougher, more reliable, and rarely needs ANY type of mechanical timing service. OHC motors deliver better overall performance, improved fuel economy, but require regular timing service and may fail catastrophically should that service not be performed. 

- Whether belt or chain drive, if you have a OHC motor you need to have the mechanical timing system serviced at regular intervals. This includes replacing the tensioners and guides should they wear or start making noise. Most OHC motors are "interference" type. This means that should the timing set fail the pistons will smash into the valves and you will have one very bad day. It seems like something nobody would ever skip but at the end of the day, while parts are cheap, the labor hours are VERY high making it extremely expensive. Many people just let it go and cross their fingers. Please don't do this. While the job is too involved for even the average home mechanic (let alone the average person) it is 100% necessary. 

- Some motors require what is called "valve lashing". This is where you adjust the gap in the valvetrain. If I explained how your valvetrain works you'd think it must be a nightmare but it's actually a fairly easy job that reduces wear and improves performance and fuel economy. Don't skip it if it's part of your vehicles maintenance schedule. 

- The 3,000 miles oil change interval is a long dead truth. 5,000 is standard and if you spend lots of time highway driving and little time idling you can extend that further. Spend the extra and get good filters and full synthetic oil. Every motor can benefit from replacing 15-20% of the oil capacity with a 50/50 mix of Marvels Mystery Oil and Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Avoid all other products.

- When you first get a vehicle and are about to do an oil change I suggest adding a half can of Seafoam to the oil and letting it idle for an hour with a rev here and there. Then, drain the oil and pour down a quart of cheap oil with the drain plug still undone. Once she stops dripping you can change the oil as usual. Great way to clear out built up gunk.

- Intake manifold gaskets are an important item not referenced elsewhere. Many motors have coolant passages in the intake manifold and the only thing keeping that coolant out of your cylinders is the gasket. Furthermore, those gaskets failing can cause hard to track down vacuum leaks. Lastly, some motors are prone to failure of these gaskets. A quick Goolging will reveal if your motor is one of these. If so, don't wait for a problem to arise. Replace with the gaskets which are best by consensus. 

- Sensors send feedback to your ecu and play a massive role on how that computer decides to do things with your motor. Bad output from those sensors makes the computer make bad choices. This can cause everything from bad mpg numbers, to poor running, to not running, to killing a motor. Replace as needed. Yes, I know some are expensive. Replace as needed anyways.

- Idle air control valves (IACs) tend to get gunked up and cause poor idling. Most of them can be yanked, cleaned, and reinstalled. Only 10% of the time that they are causing issues do they actually need to be replaced. 

- Emissions equipment keeps bad stuff out of the environment and can improve fuel economy. That said ... They are often a cause of issues and many motors run much better with that garbage disabled. Up to you if you want to take such steps. Plenty of online tutorials on common emissions system issues, servicing, and disabling. PCV systems are the most common which need servicing.

- Does your motor squeel like a banshee on start up? Takes a few revs or even a few miles to go away? That is you belt tensioner asking politely to be replaced. Please replace it. Pretty please.

- Most gaskets on your motor can be replaced with Felpro gaskets that you can get ready to go or you can buy a roll and make your own (a smart choice to keep a roll around while on the road). They are a very good choice and tend to last ages. If you buy a roll just pair with an Exacto-knife to cut your own gaskets.

- Silicone valve cover and oil pan gaskets are worth the extra couple dollars. The seal well and don't break down.

- RTV or similar liquid gasket is NOT a replacement for a real gasket. Stop glooping this crap on everything. You can use a tiny bit to hold a gasket in place. Or in an emergency.

- When you drop your oil pan be sure to check the pickup filter. It's the little screen on the bottom of the pipe. Clean/replace as needed. Also, while you're there: replace your drain plug with a magnet type, clean your magnet (pan might come with one), and use a copper crush gasket on the drain plug.

- Thread locker (like Loctite) is a MUST for some things. Just be aware that it may effect the reading you get on your torque wrench. 

- The output of sensors is not only dependent on the voltage out it is also dependent on the quality of the ground (negative electrical lead). A bad ground will throw off what the ecu sees and it will therefor make bad choices on how to adjust things. Checking your ground cables is a must. Adding extra ground cables is a smart idea.

- Many MAF sensors (the thing on the end of your intake after the filter) can be cleaned with a simple spray. Check to see if yours is cleanable and pick up the spray at any auto parts store. Helps the sensor read air flow correctly.

- Air filter lifespan will vary wildly depending on your miles, driving type, location, etc. Check regularly. Spend the dough for a K&N filter but don't do what most people do and forget to service them.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Charging system

- Your motor turns your alternator which provides power to run and recharges your battery. Fairly straightforward really.

- A loose belt will cause poor alternator performance. Some motors use 1 belt to drive everything ("serpentine") and some have separate belts for different componants.

- Half of alternator failures are actually internal diode pack failures. You can buy just the diode pack but why not replace the whole thing since it's almost the same cost. Be aware that when you take in your alternator to the auto parts store they will test it. In my experience these tests are about 25% accurate. Make sure they test multiple times.

- If your battery has fill caps you need to add water when they get low. Each cap goes to a different cell so make sure you check them all. Careful with the acid.

- Keep your battery terminals and the cables clean. Corrosion builds up and lowers performance. A toothbrush sized wire brush is handy for this.

- If your system checks out but you are consistently having issues you're likely overtaxing your alternator. It can only pump out so many amps and that number you see is MAX output and does not reflect the output at idle. This is where a lot of vandwellers run into issues without alternate power systems. You can replace your alternator with a higher output model if needed.

- You can only check your battery status with the vehicle off and after it has sat for a few hours and with nothing electrical running. Any other way will give you innacurate readings.  Disconnect the cables and use your multimeter to check voltage.

- 12V Battery voltage guide: 12.7V = 100%, 12.5V = 90% (these are optimal), 12.4V = 80%, 12.3V = 70%, 12.2V = 60% (these numbers are ok but you're pushing it), 12.1V is 50%, 12V is 40%, 11.75 V is 30% (this is bad and your battery is over-stressed) 11.6V = 20%, 11.3V = 10%, 10.5-11V is dead (battery is in serious trouble or has failed).

- Note: Those battery levels are for standard automotive batteries. Deep cell batteries are different.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Vacuum

- A motor is a pump. It does a really good job at pumping air. This is taken advantage of by tying into the intake tract to generate vacuum. That vacuum drives a lot of components and can be VERY important to the proper functioning of your vehicle. So important and such a common cause of issues that it deserves its own section, haha.

- Replace any vacuum component which looks at all aged. Hoses can crack and look fine even when they are not. Silicone vacuum hoses are expensive but last forever. 

- Keep a couple feet of each size of vacuum line your vehicle needs. Takes up next to no space but can be a lifesaver.

- Buy a vacuum "T", an extra length of hose, and a 2 pack of Swisher Sweets cigars. If you suspect a vacuum leak do the following: Remove your intake and cap off your throttle body with a plastic bag and rubber band. T into your vacuum system at the manifold with your extra hose leading to the front of your van. Puff on a cigar and blow the smoke into the line. Place your thumb over the hose end between blows. Keep it up for the whole cigar. If you have a vacuum leak the smoke will come out where the leak is.

- Add small hose clamps to your vacuum lines and keep several spares. I know they don't need SUPER tight fittings but it's cheap insurance.

- Be very careful of plastic vacuum "Trees". These function as a mini manifold for your vacuum system but are very easy to break off (especially as the plastic gets brittle with age). Keep a pack of misc T's in case you need to cobble together your own version after breaking one.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Transmission

- Besides filters, fluids, and adding transmission coolers there's not much more you should be doing. Too easy to hurt things.

- Heat is the enemy of transmissions. Want to extend the life of yours? Add a transmission temp gauge and keep an eye on it. There is no other single larger factor in its lifespan.

- Don't be afraid to disable overdrive on hills and other heavy load conditions. A lot of people think it's bad because it causes your RPMs to climb so much but ultimately it DECREASES the load on your drivetrain. 

- Adding a transmission cooler can go a long way towards the health of your transmission. Unless you live in Alaska there's no such thing as too big. Decreases heat and increases fluid capacity.

- Change fluid by extending your in and out hoses to a pair of buckets. In gets a bucket of fresh ATF (the version your manufacturer suggests) and out goes into an empty bucket. Start the vehicle (leaving it in park) and allow it to pump in the new and out the old (do not let the inlet hose suck air). Once you see fresh fluid coming out just shut her down and reconnect your lines. This is the only way to get 100% of the fluid without harming things. Lots of tutorial online. Avoid "flushes".

- Transmission additives are used when you already have an issue and only buy you time. Avoid adding "stop slip" type products.

- Transmission filters are replaced by dropping the transmission pan. If your pan doesn't include a drain plug you may want to go through the trouble of adding one. Removing the pan for a transmission still full of fluid is not a fun day. 

- Special note: Some of you have no doubt been lucky ... Or you have done a ton of maintenance and are keeping your fingers crossed ... But at the end of the day the full size Dodge van transmissions (and indeed many of their other vehicles) are prone to failure. I get it, they are cheap and plentiful plus there's lots of conversion vans and Class Bs. That doesn't make them suck less. If you already own one with some miles on it just add a temp gauge and a bigger cooler and keep an eye on it. Don't even bother changing fluid or filter as this may actually accelerate its impending death. Don't believe me? Go to a transmission shop and ask what brand accounts for the MAJORITY of their business.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Suspension

- There are several different types of suspension systems so I'll just be covering the key service items without breaking down every single part.

- Suspension components with grease fittings need to be greased regularly! When it's time to replace a component try to find ones with grease fittings. Properly serviced greasable components far outlive their sealed counterparts. Worth your time to replace the hard to reach straight nipples with right angle ones.

- Your rear suspension will rarely need anything more than replacing the shocks when they get tired or blown. Bouncy equal blown. Shocks you can add air to in order to beef up stiffness can help with heavy vandwelling type loads substantially. If your rear end is sagging you need to beef things up.

- The fastest and easiest way to see if you have a front suspension issue is to lift both sides of your front end off the ground, grab your wheel/tire, and see if it moves side/side or in/out from top to bottom and left to right. Do this on both sides. Movement means play in your components. Typically the worn out part will be evident. Just repeat the motion that gave you play while looking on the other side of the wheel to see where that play is exactly.

- Front end shocks/struts will give the same bouncy feel when tired or blown though it is usually less apparent than the rear.

- If your van didn't come with a sway bars front and rear you should REALLY consider adding them. They reduce bodyroll (that feeling on a turn like you're going to roll). Even if your van came with sway bars you likely have an issue you're not even aware of. Adding a bunch of weight to a vehicle can cause preload on your sway bars. Without adjustable endlinks (the part which connects your sway bar to your suspension) you wont be able to remove that preload. The difference can be night and day so take the time to check for preload (look around online for tutorials) and spend the dough on adjustable endlinks to remove that preload.

- Bushings are a wear item. Often times it's actually cheaper and easier to just replace a whole control arm versus trying to remove and replace the bushings. 

- Re-greasing your hubs/bearings is a part of regular maintenance. Yes I know it can be a pain but it's easier than replacing the wheel bearings.

- Ball joints wear out but the lifespan will vary based on a number of factors. Some last forever and some are known for going bad early. For full size vans: dodges have small ones which wear out quick, GMs have beefy ones which tend to hold up well, Fords with twin traction beam suspension don't even use a typical ball joint design and hold up very well.

- Note: If you need to compress springs be sure to take your time, compress each side of the spring evenly, and use the best quality spring compressor you can afford. They can be dangerous otherwise. You're trying to compress a HUGE amount of force so don't play around.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Steering

- It's not just the wheel in the car it's an entire subsystem to a vehicle and is important to maintain since you probably want to control your several tons of moving glass, fuel, and metal.

- You power steering pump is what forces the fluid to actuate your steering rack. While heavy steering may be caused by a failing pump they do tend to fail all at once. So you go from full power steering to none at all. Most of this can be avoided by regularly changing your fluid. To prolong the life try to not hold your steering wheel at full lock. You'll hear the pump fight the extra load. If the seals blow you can typically rebuild them with new ones for a few dollars vs $100+ for a whole new unit.

- Power steering fluid is a hydraulic fluid. Occasionally, some vehicles may use brake fluid for power steering but this is rare nowadays. Old fluid tends to look like reddish mud and may smell and taste burned. Leaking fluid from anywhere can be dangerous as it is VERY flammable. Check your manual for the preferred method of changing on your vehicle. Can be a pain. No hard and fast rule on intervals. Check fluid quality and replace as needed.

- Your PS reservoir is typically mounted off the pump itself. Check to ensure the level is correct and it is not leaking. This is where you check your fluid quality.

- Power steering racks are what transfers your steering wheel input and pump pressure into the side to side motion needed to turn your wheels. 99% of failure is due to poorly kept fluids and turning the wheels when stationary (stop doing that please) which puts excessive load on the system. They may rust (especially on Dodge/Chrysler vans) but a undercoat will go a long way towards stopping/slowing this. 

- Tie rods are what connect the ends of your rack the wheel hub. Check the ends for play and replace as needed. If your tie rod ends have grease fitting then grease them often. Most are sealed units but if replacing try to find ones with fittings to service. When replacing you need to get as close to the length of the old ones as possible (they are adjustable). If not you will need an alignment after.

- Steering boxes are like a mini differential between your steering wheel and rack. If you have excessive play in the steering wheel but your tie rod ends check out this may be the cause. There is no such thing as an adjustable steering rack. You may find info online that you can take out that excessive play by turning a screw to adjust the lash. This is NOT true. That lash adjustment it designed to set the unit from the factory and is not for servicing out play. If it's really bad just replace it. Otherwise, they tend to last a while even when play is present.

- Note, if you are turning the wheels while stationary there's a 99% chance the cause is you not operating your vehicle properly. Your wheels should be straight when you come to a stop in a parking space. If this isn't happening you need to learn how to turn your vehicle properly. You turn the wheel and then straighten as you come to stop. Not after. The extra wear from doing this wrong substantially decreases the life of your steering components and fluid. Doing this properly means that the only service your power steering system will ever need is occasional fluid changes and tie rod end replacement once per decade. I know I sound mean here but this is cause for a lot of completely avoidable wear and tear.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Wheels/Tires/Alignment

- Tires. DON'T BUY CHEAP. Cracking sidewalls means the rubber is old and dry. Keep aired up to spec and highly consider real time tire pressure monitoring systems. Taller tires give you higher gearing and change your speed -to- speedometer reading. Wider is not always better but can improve load capacity and handling. Ensure you're buying tires rated to the load capacity you have. Keep a full size spare and check it regularly. If your front tires are rounded you need to switch to a better tire with a stiffer sidewall or you're low on air. Tires can be low but still look right. Check with a calibrated gauge.

- Wheels. The only real consideration here is width. A wider wheel allows you to more optimally fit wider tires and this will help with load capacity and stability. Do note that increasing the offset of your wheels (how far they stick out) will negatively affect your scrub radius and contribute to premature wear.

- Alignment. Bad alignment eats tires, decreases fuel economy, and puts extra stress on your suspension and drivetrain. Proper alignment can only be achieved when done "as driven". This means that your vehicle needs to be aligned while at driven load. Even the weight of the passengers will influence the results. Extra important on full size Ford vans with the beefy (but alignment sensitive) twin traction beam front end. Stick to factory specs. Have checked annually and done as needed. Odd tire wear is a good indicator that it needs to be done sooner rather than later. 

- Lugs. Anytime you have your vehicle serviced and they remove a wheel be sure to check that all lugs are present, they didn't crack a stud, and they are properly torqued. Many places over torque the lugs sadly. I recently saw a car which had just left a dealership come home with two lug bolts snapped off on the same wheel. A potentially deadly mistake they didn't bother mentioning let alone fixing.

- Are you experiencing a shaking at speed? It could be your suspension components but it might well be that you have a wheel/tire out of balance. Most tire chains will check/fix for free to $15. When you're getting new tires balancing is NOT an option or an attempt to gouge you.

- Always keep a little 12v compressor and a plug kit with a T shaped handle. Avoid Slime and tire sealing foams. DO NOT try to patch sidewalls.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Cooling system

- Engines make heat. They make a lot of heat. In fact, most of the energy in the fuel you burn is wasted by being transformed into waste heat. For several reasons, your motor is designed to operate optimally within a pretty narrow internal temperature range. Your cooling system is what handles this for you.

- Thermostat, thermostat housing, hoses, radiator and coolant. These are the components which keep temps within range. All powered by your water pump and assisted by your fan.

- Burning coolant has a specific sweet smell. If you smell it, pull over and take a whiff while idling. If you keep smelling it shut her down and check your vehicle.

- Your cooling system needs to be serviced every 3 years or 36,000 miles. That's replacing your thermostat, hoses, and fluid.

- "Coolant" is a misnomer. Water is your coolant. Coolant just keeps the water from freezing and boiling. 50/50 water to coolant is typical but you can run up to 80/20 for additional cooling capability. WaterWetter is an additive I highly recommend. It actually increases the cooling capacity of water and keeps things lubricated. Also, don't let minor leaks go. Cooling systems are pressure systems and depend on that pressure to keep your coolant from boiling.

- Your thermostat is a valve which only opens once your motor is up to temp. No use cooling a motor which doesn't yet need cooling. Thermostats can get stuck open or closed with age. Either way is bad. Replace with quality parts (don't ever cheap out here) and test your new thermostat BEFORE installing by placing in a pot of water. Heat the water and ensure it opens at the rated temp. One in twenty new thermostats doesn't work right so always test. Feel free to buy a lower temp thermostat especially if you spend a lot of time idling.

- Thermostat Housing. This is just a part which houses your thermostat and mates it to the engine. Most need gaskets when replacing your thermostat. Be careful when tightening as many are made of cheap materials and can crack (use your torque wrench). These are often the source of otherwise un-findable minor coolant leaks (usually only identifiable by smell).

- Hoses. Buy yourself an L shaped pick to aid in removing old hoses. Stick the end of the pick in between the hose and mount the run it around the radius to free. Replace cheap clamps with quality ones and go ahead and replace them every time you service your cooling system. Avoid using those bend to fit universal hoses. The metal coils inside corrode and block coolant passages in the radiator.

- Radiator. This piece of equipment sheds heat to the ambient air. Those fins you see are the heat exchangers. That's why bent fins means poor cooling. Add 1/4 inch hardware cloth in front of your radiator to give it better protection from rocks which will keep your fins straight. Be wary of vehicles with plastic end tanks (as well as replacement radiators with them). Get replacements with metal end tanks if possible. Consider flushing when you have everything apart for your 3 year or 36,000 mile service. Can be done with just a hose. Replace your radiator cap before setting out on the road. Many GM vans will benefit from a higher pressure cap. 

- Water pump. This is the how your coolant circulates. They can be a real bear to replace on many vehicles. If you notice that your water pump is dripping from the "weep hole" it is time to replace. Do it now before it fails catastrophically. A failed water pump will cause your temp to rise VERY quickly.

- Fans. Some vehicles have mechanical fans and some have electric. Mechanical fans move the most air and have the fewest problems. Occasionally you may see the clutch which goes in between the fan and motor fail. Most common problem with mechanical fans is damaged shrouds which keep the fan from efficiently moving air over your radiator. Electric fans have typical electric issues. Sometimes they blow fuses, relays, and occasionally motors. If your electric fan van is overheating and you aren't hearing the fans kick on check the fuse and relay first. After that check all your connectors.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- HVAC (Heating, ventilation, and AC)

- January 1st 1996. That's the date which mandated modern r134a refrigerant (the stuff that makes your AC cold) be used in all vehicles built and sold in the US. If you have an older system getting it topped off or serviced will be difficult or impossible depending. Updating an old system to r134a is usually insanely expensive. Part of the reason I suggest vehicles already running it. Topping off your AC is fairly simple. Buy yourself a canister with a gauge and follow the directions. Save the can and use the gauge to check your pressure if the ac seems to be under-performing. Check BEFORE summer. Some 1995's will be newer refrigerant too.

- There's a lot of components to an ac system and servicing beyond simply topping off the refrigerant is out of the question for even a shade-tree grease monkey like me. I'm not buying an AC purge system or special bottles to harvest the refrigerant and avoid sending it out into the atmosphere. Bite the bullet and go to an AC specialist if you have a serious failure. If topping off the pressure doesn't get you through the summer it's time to get the system truly serviced.

- Heat in a vehicle is actually the collection of waste heat off of a mini radiator which your coolant flows through. Coolant on your interior floor? That heater core or the hoses into it failed. Smell hot coolant when you turn the heater on? Same issue. If your heat is weak the core is probably clogged up. Check online for tutorials on how to flush your core.

- Inside your dash is an actuator and a doorway which control if air is allowed to pass over your heater core. That way you aren't heating your air conditioned air. These can both fail. Actuators can be removed and checked by leaving them electrically connected and turning the dial on your dash from hot to cold. If the actuator doesn't move it's toast. The blend doors tend to fail just because the plastic gets brittle or they bind up. Can be complicated to replace but there's often shortcuts. Common issue on Fords.

- The air that comes out of your vents is pushed by a blower fan. If you have no air moving check your fuses and relays. If those are good the blower is probably toast. If your blower only works on high, only works on low, or has some similar combination of only working at certain speeds it means that the resistor pack which control your fan speeds is toast. Just replace that. I've seen several GM blowers get bound up on warped pieces of blower housing boxes. You'll notice when you go to replace the motor. Just trim back the offending plastic.

- If you have regular plain old mechanical temperature control in your vehicle you may find that eventually your knobs seem to turn with no resistance and aren't working. Something in the mechanical controls behind the unit has broken. Yank it and look for what has disconnected or stripped out.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Brakes

- There's three braking systems. Disc, drum, and emergency.

- Disc brakes are the best all around design. You may or may not have these in the rear too. Replace pads as needed. If your rotor is within factory thickness you can have it resurfaced instead of replaced. Check to ensure your brakes are not dragging on the rotor and that your caliper (the clamp which forced the pads onto the rotor) move freely. Buy yourself a jumbo (5-8") C clamp for compressing the caliper piston instead of renting or buying the huge kits. Just find a clamp which fits your caliper. TONS of online tutorials and videos on how to bleed your brakes. Squishy brake pedal means you have air in the system and need to bleed them. There's so many online tutorials the only thing I'll add is to make sure you don't hurt the rubber brake line going to the caliper. It's all to easy to let the caliper pull down on the brake line while doing your brakes. 

- Drums last virtually forever. Also lots of online tutorials on how to replace the shoes (pad equivalent). Just be careful not to drop the housing. It's a cast piece and can crack easily if it smacks a hard surface like a parking lot.

- Ensure your emergency brake operates properly. You manual will tell you how to do this. The cables are usually adjustable. Don't slack on checking this. You need to be setting your E brake any time you work on the vehicle and when you're under the car is a bad time to see it moving and realize your e brake doesn't actually brake. Typically you just need to adjust or replace a stretched cable. 

- There's more components but I hesitate to offer details. Beyond what I wrote above I don't recommend someone new to wrenching try their hand. It's just too dangerous a system to goof up. If your other components are leaking have them replaced. If you just plain don't have the money ... Follow your manual and triple check everything.

- Brake fluid comes in several different flavors. Check online to see what is recommended. Many manufacturers now suggest a higher spec fluid over what you will see called for in the manual. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and is therefor constantly trying to pull moisture into the system. This can contribute to premature failures and poor performance. Flush if needed.

- A shuddering feeling when braking is caused by warped rotors. Have resurfaced to cure. If worn to thin just replace. Occasionally caused by a goofed ABS system but rare.

- Anti-lock braking systems (aka ABS) is a bit of a catch 22. It's a system to lock and unlock your brakes over and over again under very heavy braking (like when you stand on the pedal to avoid that squirrel). It typically shortens overall braking distance for the average driver. However, it does reduce control for experienced drivers. I've intentionally locked my brakes on a non-abs vehicle in order to induce a slide and avoid a collision. Not possible with ABS. Probably best to keep it in good working order but it is possible to disable. If you get an ABS light on your dash it means that a fault has been detected (often just a dirty sensor) and the car has disabled abs until fixed.

- There's several simple kits which help you bleed the brakes by yourself. Well worth the $10.

- Note ... Sigh ... Most people go through brakes 2 to 3 times as fast as they should be. If you wonder why you need annual brake services it's because you aren't operating the vehicle properly. 12,000 mile inspection and 25,000 pad replacement is the suggested interval but even this is too often. The standard is low because most people overuse their brakes. Spend more time coasting and enjoy better fuel economy and longer brake life. I change my pads every 3 years or 36,000 miles and always have plenty of life left on the pads.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Ignition System

- Fuel, air, and spark. This is the old adage for what it takes to get a motor to run. While there is a fair bit more involved it is a good first check rule. Spark is your ignition system and this can be a point for everything from poor running condition to bad fuel economy. 

- Plugs. This part everyone knows. This is what sits in the motor and actually produces the spark. Don't buy cheap plugs and ALWAYS check the spark plug gap before installing. Do not trust pregapped plugs to be gapped properly. A key chain spark plug gap tool is all of $1. Avoid 2 piece plugs though these are uncommon now. If your vehicle came with 2 piece plugs I promise they make 1 piece replacements. Take the time to install them with your torque wrench to the proper ft lbs. Use a spark plug socket with a rubber insert for holding your plug. 

- Plug wires. This is what transfers the energy from your coil or distributor to the plug itself. Replace with quality silicone wires. On the truck motors we have in most of our vans I HIGHLY suggest 8mm or larger wires. Make sure you route these as intended by the manufacturer as heat can influence the performance substantially. Adding additional heat protection (especially on pushrod motors) is always a good idea.

- Distributor. This components decides where the spark should go and when. The cap and rotor are the parts you need concern yourself with and replace. These are the only real wear items short of an internal electrical failure (which does happen sometimes). Replace the cap and rotor if old. This will also be where you set your base timing. You do this by loosening the mount and rotating the entire thing. 

- Coil packs. These replace distributors as the method for sending spark where it needs to go. Some run one plug each, some two, some four ... And there's about 10 different variations on the system. What matters at the end of the day is that timing is controlled by the ECU so you don't need to set it and you replace a pack when it goes bad. When one goes bad it causes a misfire and you just unhook, unbolt,and replace. Very straight-forward. 

- Coil on plug. This is a different animal all together as it combines the plug wire and coil pack into a single unit which mounts directly over your spark plug. This will only have a small harness leading to it to provide voltage. Coil on plug packs go dead sometimes. Replace when getting a misfire code. Most of us wont need to worry since this is typically only found on high performance or very modern engines.

- You may be wondering what this "timing" thing I mentioned above is. Basically, it is the control over exactly when the spark occurs during the combustion event in a cylinder. Typically, you want to be at or just above (but still within factory range) of what the manufacturer suggests. This is confirmed with a timing light. Cheap lights are about $25 and all you need. They can also be used to diagnose a misfire. Often, you need to install a jumper or similar beforehand. Do not attempt to adjust without a timing light. Watch a lot of video tutorials and follow your manual. There will be specific things you need to do before you start adjusting.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Fuel System

- I'm going to stick to fuel injected systems as that's what most of us are running. This info also applies to throttle body injected motors.

- Fuel tank, fuel pump, lines, filter, and injectors. These make up your fuel system. The vapor canister really isn't a factor unless it's clogged but is technically a fuel system component. Your float and sending unit are not needed for proper operation but these are what tell you your fuel level.

- Coating your fuel tank will help ensure it doesn't rust on you. Check the bands which hold it in place for rust and replace at the first sign of structural failure.

- Your fuel pump is almost certainly in the tank. On some vehicles access is only available by dropping the tank. On others, there will be a round hatch in the cabin which is above the fuel tank and holds your pump, float and sending unit on the other side. If your fuel pump appears to have died be sure to check the electrical portion before spending the time and money on the pump.

- Most vehicles have a port on the fuel system in the engine bay which will allow you to check fuel pressure. If low, a clogged filter or failing pump is the cause. 

- Fuel filters replacement intervals vary wildly. A good rule of thumb is every 4 years or 48,000 miles. Location on a vehicle can vary substantially. Learn where yours is ahead of time. Very important to replace if you're buying a used van which has spent a lot of time sitting.

- Fuel lines typically only fail when damaged. If you need to replace a line try to buy the proper line already bent, cut, and flared. On the side of the road is NOT the time to learn how to do this yourself.

- The vapor canister is an emissions system and probably the only one which rarely causes problems. 99% of the time a vapor canister issue was caused by the user overfilling the tank to the point that wet fuel could make it to the canister. If you suspect this, remove, turn upside down to drain, and allow to dry before reinstalling.

- Your fuel injectors mist the fuel into the intake system. Poor misting means poor combustion. They are a wear item though many vehicles can live full lives on the original set. If you replace one replace them all. If you need to remove a fuel injector be sure to replace the O ring which seals it in place. If you do need to replace them but have the ability to have your van down for a bit there are several companies you can send your injectors to and get reconditioned (cheaper than new ones).

- Adding a bit of SeaFoam or Lucas Fuel Treatment to the tank on a regular basis will help keep your injectors flowing well and misting properly. It's not snake oil. Consider these additives as part of your regular service interval. GumOut makes a good product too. 

- If you just filled up and your vehicle and it is now bucking and burning gas at a phenomenal rate you have bad gas. Likely compromised with water. Add "dry gas" or other methanol treatment and then be sure to run additives (the ones above) in your next tank. Much more common in winter.

- "Winter Gas" is a real thing. They change the ratio of additives and this typically causes fuel economy to drop a fair bit. 

- Higher octane does not equal better. Your motor is designed to run on a certain octane. Don't pay more for higher octane unless you're having detonation issues even at factory timing.

- Note, if part of your fuel system fails and causes an engine bay fire you have two options. Option one: leave the hood closed and let it burn. Salvage what you can quickly and run. Option two: open the hood ONLY if you are ready on the trigger with your fire extinguisher. Blast as you open. The sudden influx of air will cause the fire to swell substantially. If you open while firing the extinguisher it will do a great job of stopping the fire. If you open the hood without firing the extinguisher you are going to the hospital.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Differentials

- This is really for RWD vans as FWD differentials are incorporated into the transmission.

- You replace the oil in your motor but did you know you need to do the same for your differential? Inside the "pumpkin" is a bunch of meshing gears turning at high speed. The gears and fluid break down over time. Extend the life of your differential and improve your fuel economy by servicing properly.

- Expect that your used van has NEVER had the differential serviced. It is a very often skipped item.

- Before draining a differential be sure you can free the fill plug! If you can't get it out how are you going to fill it after draining?!

- Some diffs don't have fill/drain plugs and have to be wrestled with by using just the cover. If this applies to your vehicle know that you can likely buy replacement covers with fill/drain plugs. Don't assume yours doesn't have them just because you didn't see them though. They tend to collect a lot of road grime and manage to disappear under it.

- Fluids. Synthetic fluids are worth it. Spend the money. If your differential has a limited slip system you will need to add "friction modifiers". Identify is you have such a need BEFORE attempting to service. 

- Old gear oil STINKS and new gear oil is SUPER thick. Drain your old gear oil outside to avoid gagging to much. Place your new unopened gear oil bottles in the summer sun or a bucket of hot water to get it to flow easier. Expect it to flow like honey.

- Add a length of hose to the bottle cap to make filling easier. The diff is full when excess starts pouring out of the fill hole (when level).

- Many people consider replacing the gear ratio in their differential for better load hauling or fuel economy. I suggest you avoid this. It throws off your speedometer, it needs to be professionally done, and it rarely nets an improvement unless you're towing. If you have an offroad rig with monster tires it's probably worth it but not for the average person.

 

[Gideon33w]

--- Misc

- When buying a used van assume that every maintenance item needs to be replaced/serviced. Budget for this when picking a van. Plan to spend at least $300 on just basic stuff.

- It may seem like a stupid thing but even seasoned mechanics can occasionally take something rated to be done in inch pounds and accidentally torque it in foot pounds. Be sure to double check.

- In the Fuel system section I mentioned a fire extinguisher. Don't have one? Get one and keep it handy. What was the most feared thing on a ship? Fire. Your van is your ship.

- Disconnecting your battery before working on something is always a good idea. It might only be 12 volts but it's A LOT of amps. Also, you might accidentally blow a fuse or relay otherwise.

- Most vehicles are running around with several things wrong and the driver isn't even aware. Taking the time to check things out, replace parts, and provide service will improve your fuel economy and extend the life of your vehicle. 

- I know that I may come off as condescending at times in these write-ups. I promise it's out of love. That tone I take is because I'm stomping my foot on important pieces of info that many people are apt to ignore. I've seen it time and time again and I don't want you to fall into the same hole.

 

[Gideon33w]

If there's something specific I forgot (or chose not to address) that you'd like covered just leave a comment and I'll try to get to it when I can.

It's now 3:30 in the morning so I probably missed a few things I intended to cover ... lol

Hope you all find this helpful. Printing a copy and sticking it in the front of your vehicle manual is probably a good idea.

 

[Putts]

Wow.

 

[highdesertranger]

great summary. a couple of points,

the aftermarket manuals are ok for some things and seriously lacking in others. nothing beats a factory service manual.

on dedicated forums, I have seen very bad advice given by so called experts. be careful with the advice given on forums, youtube or other online sources. always verify the info. highdesertranger