Access to shore power

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Matt71

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Ok, this is primarily for people with vans and other vehicles that don't come with built in hookup.
How do you access shore power when it's available?

Did you rig your vehicle with a 30A input jack?
Do you use an extension cord?
How do you run it into the vehicle? window? Hole cut in the side?

For me, I was thinking of adding something like this and just running a heavy duty extension cord through it,
 
I did the cord though the window thing, but it got old real fast. I've since installed what's called a SmartPlug purchased though Amazon. The pass though your referring to will work but I'd be concerned about water and dust instrusion.
 
My initial camping in my minivan, I ran the cord in through a rear side window. I was worried about damaging the seal, and getting rain into the vehicle, but that never happened. For my E150 project I will use a thru-wall socket of some type with a weather-proof cover.
 
Matt, I have that model on my Dodge Caravan Poptop, it is twenty years old and most of the teeth inside are broken off, it is brittle, easy to replace and obviously available. I have about 25/30 feet of heavy duty cord which you push through to the inside. You obviously have to have space inside for however much cord you want and then some, you will also want access to the this space , mine is located on the side near the back door so I can access the cord if it gets tangled up, by simply opening the rear door, it is close enough that I can still reach around and handle the cord from outside if need be. Other option is have an extension cord and a short tail, that way it wouldn't get tangled up. On the kurbmaster it goes out the drivers window, bugs are the only down side to this set up, for me this is a non issue as I rarely use shore power unless I am running an electric heater and if it is that cold there are no bugs. I haven't noticed any problems with dust or water leakage that amounts to anything in either set up.
 
I looked at the SmartPlug and they are pricey, but I'd probably go that route if I needed 30A power.
For now, everything I'll have will only draw about 15 amps at 120V, so I should be ok with a good extension cord.
 
I started out running an extension cord through the floor, just pulling it back inside the van after use. Worked okay, but where I had it at the very rear was awkward to access.

New plan: installed a socket below the taillamp and a four gang outlet inside so I can use a normal extension cord (110) to be more versatile. Go a HD 20A 25' cord and a 30A dog bone adapter just in case.

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Like $13 on eBay.
 
I have one more question. When using shore power, do you continue to power everything from your house battery and use the shore power to keep the house battery charged, or do you plug what you can into the shore power?
I'm considering getting this 110V to 12V 55amp converter, but I'm not sure if it's necessary since I will have 630W of solar and the van alternator.
http://amzn.com/B00F8MC440
 
Personally, I have a small 110 to 12v converter (8amps) but most items I use are 110v. The things you "want" 110v for are usually not available on 12v. (AC. Hot plate. Fast Kettle) at least there not practical.
 
So ideally I should unplug all of my 110v items from my AC to DC power converter and switch them directly to shore power?
I wonder if I can set that up so I just have to hit a switch, then I don't have to mess with unplugging anything.
My solar will be more than enough to run my 12v stuff
 
Matt71 said:
So ideally I should unplug all of my 110v items from my AC to DC power converter and switch them directly to shore power?
I wonder if I can set that up so I just have to hit a switch, then I don't have to mess with unplugging anything.
My solar will be more than enough to run my 12v stuff

Yes you can, but I'm not sure how. RVs do it automatically; as soon as you plug into shore power. I think I posted a general diagram on one of your posts that may serve as a starting point.
 
The converter does the switching automatically. But they are expensive and I think overkill for most vans. The simplest method would be to plug all your 110 items into a power strip and then all you have to do is unplug it from the inverter and into the extension cord to the shore power. It's still moving one cord but that seems doable.

Since you will be doing it a lot it may be worth it to you. Buy a quality one because the cheap ones don't have smart battery chargers and they can damage your expensive batteries.
Bob
 
Matt71 said:
So ideally I should unplug all of my 110v items from my AC to DC power converter and switch them directly to shore power?
I wonder if I can set that up so I just have to hit a switch, then I don't have to mess with unplugging anything.
My solar will be more than enough to run my 12v stuff

Unless you're planning on always having shore power, I think I'd be looking to convert everything over to 12v models.  There's a lot of goodies available in 12v models, even electric blankets.

If everything is 12v, then all you have to do is keep your battery(s) charged, which can be done via a simple battery charger if you do  have shore power, alternator while driving, generator, solar, etc.

Most places I park have no shore power, and inverters aren't really that efficient.

I find that the simpler I keep things, the more reliable they are.
 
A double-poll double-throw switch can be wired to switch both the hot and neutral wires. Make sure to use one rated for the voltage and current.
 
The Powermax converters sold on Amazon have a 14.4v Absorption voltage.

The Powermax converters sold through bestconverter.com have 14.6 ABSV

Trojan's want 14.8v remember.  This is not just a 'close enough' sort of deal.  Adequate Time at absorption voltage is the recipe for happy long lived batteries.  Inadequate time and not meeting the manufacturer recommended ABSV will have a person whining and complaining and freaking out when their batteries 'no longer take a charge' prematurely.

No matter how good Trojan T-105's might be, they are not immune to user error, and not meeting the recommended 14.8 ABSV is simply user error.

Best converter sells a manual, adjustable voltage Powermax  converter.  Not automatic! The user can choose any voltage between 12v and 15.5v, and the batteries themselves decide how much amperage they want at the chosen voltage, up to the converter's maximum amperage output.  The use of such a device requires a human with a brain, as holding batteries at ABSV longer than needed is abusive to the battery.  Holding the correct ABSV for as long as needed and no longer is the holy grail of lead acid battery charging, and very few, if any, automatic battery chargers get it right, no matter how well marketed they are.

A good turkey baster style temperature compensated Hydrometer will prove this.  This is the best flooded battery tool available.  Without it, one is guessing at various clues.  When one expects to see specific gravity at 1.275 or higher, and finds the green light blinks when the batteries are at 1.225, only then does one realize that their charging sources are NOT completing the task of fully charging a lead acid battery, which is so vitally important for their lifespan. 
My current flooded battery, 2 weeks after purchase, was down at 1.210 after 13 cycles and recharging at 14.7absv for 2+ hours and floating at 13.2 the rest of the day. Long story short I had to bump this upto 14.9v and then push float voltage upto 15.3v for the rest of the day, and only this solar regimen along with at least a 16v 2 hour long EQ cycle monthly, allowed this petulant battery to live through 350 deep cycles at this point.

Had I believed various blinking green lights, this battery would have been violently slung though USbattery's office doors with a hate note attached on day 30, when all along it was inadequate voltage and time at Absorption voltage that was lacking, and the Hydrometer was the only tool which made this realization possible.

A problem with the charge algorithm of Powermax, is once the battery rises to and reaches ABSV, then it drops the voltage to 13.8v and thus the charging amps dwindle to the insignificant level.  No big deal if one has a week left to plug in and complete the recharge, but it is a big deal if one wants to be sure the batteries are indeed fully charged by the next morning.

An Iota( with a 14.8 ABSV),  would be a better mate for Trojan batteries, and yes, absolutely, have a capable charging source/powersupply  available for when you plug in.  Performing an EQ cycle on the batteries when needed will greatly extend their lifespan, and often grid power is needed to accomplish this task, if only to power other devices when one has enough sunlight to set the solar voltages up into the mid to high 15's for an hour or 2 or 4.

Solar is great, but I think that you are vastly overestimating its Harvest .  With the panels flat on the roof, on a cool and cloudless June 21, only expect 95% of the panel rating for 1.5 hours on each side of noon.  Lots of amp tapering before and after that sweet spot.  I get a feeling lots of your calculations are for maximum wattage all daylight long, when it is rarely possible to even make the rated panel wattage.

I took a HD 12 awg extension cord, and fed it through my firewall, and mounted it so the 3 prongs are accessed by a little hinged hatch below my driver's side headlamp.  Sometimes at night, I need a little light to plug in, usually though  I can do it by feel.  With it located here, it is a bit less noticeable, and I can run the cord under the van and around a tire, and 90% of people will never notice it.

Feeding an extension cord through that device in your first post will get old quick.
Running an electric cord through the door seal or window also gets old quick.

Worry about the cord's insulation being crushed and degraded by being stepped on and closed in the door.  So many household fires are started by  abused extension cords.

While I have a 120vac adapter for my laptop, which is my biggest electrical consumer, when I have AC power available, I just let my 41 amp power supply hold the batteries at the voltage I choose, and it powers all my 12v devices.  This would slow down battery charging as ~ 6 amps that could be going into lead acid batteries, are now going into the laptop.  Rarely a factor as time to full charge is rarely a concern when grid power is available, for me.

I bought a 12v only fridge, instead of an AC/DC, not only because it was 100$ cheaper, but because 110$ got me my 41 amp power supply which can power the fridge from grid power, and capably charge any lead acid battery I ever choose to employ.  The AD/DC fridges basically have a small power supply inside them for voltage conversion. So I figured why have 2 devices doing the same task.  No regrets.

If you are still planning on running air conditioning for more than 30 minutes, you will need a generator.
 
Matt71 said:
So ideally I should unplug all of my 110v items from my AC to DC power converter and switch them directly to shore power?
I wonder if I can set that up so I just have to hit a switch, then I don't have to mess with unplugging anything.
My solar will be more than enough to run my 12v stuff

Here's a relatively inexpensive switch that will do what you want to do.

http://www.sterling-power-usa.com/sterlingpowerusamanualcrossoverswitch-1.aspx

Regards
John
 
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