AC blowing hot air

[Truman]

So fellas. Did this job. Got it done. Put it back together. And my gasket seal on the water pump leaked. I missed the one hole when I put the bolts in. Ugh. I know. Mercy.

So the gasket is no good now. Can i just take it off amd put gasket sealer on or is that mickey mouse? Im curious what the experts say

 

[highdesertranger]

you can buy the gasket(s) separately. shouldn't be more that a couple of bucks yes like 2 dollars. fix it right.

here's a tip for all you.

I have turned wrenches for a living and an old timer showed me this trick a long, long time ago. what you do is glue the gaskets to the removable part. so in this case I would take 3M spray adhesive and glue the gaskets to the water pump. NOT THE ENGINE. glue them like you are supposed to spray the water pump and spray the ONE SIDE of the gasket, let them get tacky and put the gasket on the water pump. let everything set up. now it doesn't matter what you do with that water pump, you could hold on to it while surfing, that gasket isn't going anywhere. now when you install the pump put your favorite gasket sealer on the one side of gasket that is glued to the pump.

I have been doing this for years, I never cuss at a gasket slipping out anymore. and I have never had one leak.

highdesertranger

 

[bullfrog]

Yes glue it to the removable part, in this case the water pump but be careful putting it in and don’t beat up the gaskets. It helps to have the bolts handy or a helper when installing it. New gaskets are probably as cheap or cheaper than sealer.

 

[Truman]

So everything was a success. Thank you to everyone that helped me out. It's the first time in awhile I didn't see a puddle underneath my van.

Now the AC. Pretty sure it's the compressor. When i turn it on the engine doesnt bog down like normal. I keep seeing warnings about getting a professional to depressurize the systeme. Can someone get me up to speed?

 

[Truman]

Is this the valve I need?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153318183756

 

[Truman]

Or this one?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153334075779

I dont have my notes with the part number on me. Its in storage

 

[highdesertranger]

you are the only one that knows about the valve.

I have known guys to replace that plastic valve with a home made manual brass one. off in the summer on in the winter. or some people just bypass the valve.

that valve is not what is making your AC blow hot.

what makes you think the compressor is bad?
was it making a terrible noise before it stopped working?

if the compressor is not bad and you end up replacing it you will have spent around 700 bucks for nothing. you do realize there is a lot more to it then just replacing the compressor. without the specialized tools you are much better off taking it to a qualified tech with the tools.

highdesertranger

 

[Truman]

Ok. The valve I need is for the vent/defrost/floor/ etc. Right now it's stuck on AC mode. I need the mode valve thingy.

I think it's the compressor because when I turn on the AC nothing happens. It doesn't drain the engine like when it's running. No noise. But I got hit with the water pump and hot air at the same time.

You know my favorite part about doing my own work? I have extra money to buy tools

 

[wayne49]

I have the compressor not engaging issue, 1989 Ford E-350, 7.5L Gas. I checked for a fuse issue andd all fuses were good. The local Autozone told me it was most likely that the magic gas had escaped from the system and the compressor won't engage without magic gas.

In my case the magic gas is R-12 and costs an arm and a leg on eBay. [At least it is not the Dark Web and crypto currency.] Or the system can be converted to modern magic gas for a kidney. The new gas uses different o-rings than the old gas. The baggie with enough o-rings to do the swap has around 20+ o-rings. That is a lot of opening up of a lot of things, that haven't been opened in over 30 years.

I'm not bothering with it, as it is my get away from the desert heat Summer dispersal RV, anyway.

 

[wayne49]

Hi Truman,

RockAuto does not have this part listed under 1993 G-20, but it does have this part for a 1993 K1500 5.7L. Since you mentioned a stuck A/C button this does have a A/C button switch. There is a part on eBay for a 1993 G-30 5.7, but the A/C control is a side to side lever, I put that info below, even though it doesn't fit your problem description.

This part is a DORMAN 599012.
[img=200x150]https://www.rockauto.com/info/42/599-012-007__ra_p.jpg[/img]

The link is:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ay,a/c+and+heater+control+switch+/+panel,4212

-------------------------------------
The slide lever unit at eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Temperatur...h=item46b275b874:g:jIAAAOSwvBRfKF-i#vi-ilComp

There is a list of vehicles this part fits, which includes:
For a 1993 CHEVROLET 20 VAN AC
1993
Chevrolet
G20
Chevy Van Extended Cargo Van 3-Door
5.7L 350Cu. In. V8 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirated

 

[highdesertranger]

there are about a gadzillion reasons why the AC compressor is not kicking on. by far the most common is the system is low on refrigerant.

remember the old saying,
"never handle a gun without the proper training"

same goes for AC systems.

I will repeat this one more time. That valve has nothing to do with the AC blowing hot. that valve might be bad but that WILL NOT cause the AC to blow hot.

Please get someone who knows what they are doing to look at this.

highdesertranger

 

[bullfrog]

AC systems especially older ones often begin to leak as they wear out. They are very expensive to get working again for any period of time. Before you are done you most likely will have had to replace most if not all the components in the system that are now almost 20 years old. AC is a very expensive luxury in old cars. The heater which makes the defroster work to clear the windshield is a safety item that should be your next concern as no one wants to wreck because they couldn’t see to drive. The AC makes the defroster work better but the heater a can get the job done well enough by itself. Dollars well spent but you would be better off going to a high priced expert with the special equipment and training for the AC and come out ahead. If you really want to do it yourself contact a vocational school and see if you can take a few courses and get certified. You will have to fix several AC systems to justify the cost of tools and training to fix your vehicle legally and correctly.

 

[Truman]

I'm probably not explaining the valve situation correctly. I know its not causing the AC issue. I have the sliding controls and the slide for the vents moves but doesnt change anything. I was told it was the mode valve. I can figure it out.

I guess I just have to take it to the shop for AC diagnostic and repairs.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

[George Mason]

You can easily retrofit an r12 system to an r134 system.

 

[B and C]

Retrofitting requires replacing the compressor and all the O rings at every joint. Will probably need a new dryer and orifice tube too. No small feat. The newer "freon" has smaller molecules than R-12 and is the reason stuff has to be replaced.

 

[George Mason]

I have the compressor not engaging issue, 1989 Ford E-350, 7.5L Gas. I checked for a fuse issue andd all fuses were good. The local Autozone told me it was most likely that the magic gas had escaped from the system and the compressor won't engage without magic gas.

In my case the magic gas is R-12 and costs an arm and a leg on eBay. [At least it is not the Dark Web and crypto currency.] Or the system can be converted to modern magic gas for a kidney. The new gas uses different o-rings than the old gas. The baggie with enough o-rings to do the swap has around 20+ o-rings. That is a lot of opening up of a lot of things, that haven't been opened in over 30 years.

I'm not bothering with it, as it is my get away from the desert heat Summer dispersal RV, anyway.

Retrofitting requires replacing the compressor and all the O rings at every joint.  Will probably need a new dryer and orifice tube too.  No small feat.  The newer "freon" has smaller molecules than R-12 and is the reason stuff has to be replaced.

 I don't know who told you that, but it does not require a new compressor. Changing the O-rings is definitely a good idea changing the orifice tube is not necessarily a requirement but also a good idea and if he has a dryer then yes that will need to be changed if he has an accumulator then that will not need to be changed personally I have retrofitted hundreds if not more of different vehicles and only had to change the compressor if it was bad.

 

[Truman]

Remember. I am an amateur mechanic. I just did my first water pump job.

 

[bullfrog]

You did it though and the the van still runs! I was serious about visiting a vocational school. They sometimes have night classes a couple nights a week, you should check. Maybe George or someone like him is close by and you could go watch or help out in some other way in order to learn. I took vocational school classes in high school and worked weekends at an old time garage/gas station/towing company. Many times car clubs will have get togethers to work on other people’s cars or just help each other. You should seek out any opportunity that comes about or you can find.

 

[B and C]

 I don't know who told you that, but it does not require a new compressor. Changing the O-rings is definitely a good idea changing the orifice tube is not necessarily a requirement but also a good idea and if he has a dryer then yes that will need to be changed if he has an accumulator then that will not need to be changed personally I have retrofitted hundreds if not more of different vehicles and only had to change the compressor if it was bad.

The older compressor seals are not up to the new refrigerant's smaller molecules.  Put a sniffer by the compressor.  You will be adding refrigerant down the road.  Been there, done that.

Edit to add: Not a job for an amature.