A/C Question

[Gr8ful]

Well I found the one in the video for $189 shipped & no tax so you convinced me for the difference, Thanks!
Frigidaire FFRE0533S1 5000 BTU Heavy-Duty Window Air Conditioner, Electronic Controls, Remote Control, 2016 eStar, 115 Volts 1 $189.00
Subtotal: $189.00
Shipping (Ground): $0.00
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $189.00

 

[jwh92020]

Gr8ful - I will be using foil faced poly iso foam board. 1.5" board has R value of 10. I'm still trying to figure out what a/c to use. I suppose I could frame for an 8k unit, then put removable fills in the wall and try a 5k. Heck, at that price I could get 2 5k units and spend less than a 8k unit.

 

[Gr8ful]

I havean ambulance which is insulated & has front & rear air & heat when running & had bought the cheaper one but hadn't installed it so I'll take it back. So counting the tax this one only cost $50 more & is 5db quieter & the remote will be handy. It wasn't worth $100 more to me but was worth the $50 extra. Here's a spec sheet on it https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/6c/6ca9403c-2190-4b1b-bd35-c3c50708cca6.pdf

 

[jwh92020]

I havean ambulance which is insulated & has front & rear air & heat when running & had bought the cheaper one but hadn't installed it so I'll take it back. So counting the tax this one only cost $50 more & is 5db quieter & the remote will be handy. It wasn't worth $100 more to me but was worth the $50 extra. Here's a spec sheet on it https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/6c/6ca9403c-2190-4b1b-bd35-c3c50708cca6.pdf

For that price with those specs, I'd spend the extra $50 and get the remote as well. I think I'm going to go with the idea of framing the rear wall to handle an 8000 btu unit, add removable fillers and give the 5k unit a try unless someone can tell me it is undersized for what I need to do.

 

[Gr8ful]

It all depends on how you plan to power it, the one I just bought will run off my small 1000/800 genset, or solar as I plan on 4 325 watt panels so I should have plenty. Are you near NW Indiana? There's a warehouse selling several brands new for 34 cents a watt.

 

[jwh92020]

Gr8ful - I have a 2300 watt Ryobi generator, so I'm good there. I'm in Oklahoma City, so it would be a bit of a drive to NW Indiana. You'll have 1300 watts in panels, howmuch battery power? I don't know enough about solar to understand being able to run an a/c on it. During the day, does the a/c pull it's power from the batteries as they charge? If so, in an indirect way, the a/c runs off the power produced by the panels during the day, and off the batteries themselves at night. Is that correct?

 

[Gr8ful]

Look up Jims you tubes, He's really good with solar type Solar Boondocker into you tube

 

[highdesertranger]

it takes a boat load of batteries to run AC overnight. I am curious instead of all this cost and equipment to run AC why not just start up the old engine and drive to where you don't need AC. or did I mess something? highdesertranger

 

[RogerD]

it takes a boat load of batteries to run AC overnight.  I am curious instead of all this cost and equipment to run AC why not just start up the old engine and drive to where you don't need AC.  or did I mess something?  highdesertranger

Where do you go in the summer that you don't need AC / what kind of temps will you be in?

I think it is more important to have AC in the daytime when it's the hottest.

Here in FL, at night I can be comfortable running fans as long as it's not over 80.

 

[jwh92020]

highdesertranger - Work & family will take me to the hot areas during the summer. Don't have a choice about that. I'm not really concerned about running a/c on solar (it would be a nice option though). I'll have shore power most of the time and a generator as well. My major concern is how much a/c will I need to stay cool.

 

[highdesertranger]

I go to northern Nevada or Oregon. daytime temps might get into the 90's, but that's rare. nighttime temps drop real nice you diffidently need a blanket(s). you won't catch me inside during the day. what do you do sitting inside a vehicle all day? highdesertranger

 

[Riverman]

JWH...

I've tried about everything to stay cool in this 100-degree north FL summer heat. I have health problems so I have to be reasonably cool. I can't head to NV or OR like some can to escape the heat and high humidity. I can't walk around outside all day like some can.

I tried 1" of Polyiso rigid board insulation in my trailer and it was not enough. I went back with 2" on the walls and 3" on the ceiling and finally stopped the heat intrusion pretty well. Polyiso from Home Depot has the best R-value that I have found, and I wanted the best.

I have two 5000 btu window units in my cargo trailer, mounted up front and down low. One will do fine except from noon until sundown usually. Sometimes I'll turn on the second one in the afternoon heat. There's more than one reason for my two little units... if one quits working, I have a backup to keep me going. I haven't had to replace these Frigidaire units, they just keep on working.

 

[RogerD]

I go to northern Nevada or Oregon.  daytime temps might get into the 90's,  but that's rare.  nighttime temps drop real nice you diffidently need a blanket(s).    you won't catch me inside during the day.  what do you do sitting inside a vehicle all day?  highdesertranger

Certainly sounds better than Florida. Plus I assume you don't have the humidity we have here.

Do you stay on BLM land and get good internet?

I work / have an internet marketing business.

 

[Gr8ful]

it takes a boat load of batteries to run AC overnight.  I am curious instead of all this cost and equipment to run AC why not just start up the old engine and drive to where you don't need AC.  or did I mess something?  highdesertranger

This A/C only uses 3.4 amps Max so it will run on the 19# 1000/800 generator at night which I doubt I'll need much at night but the genset uses 1/2 gal per hour. I plan on 4 325watt panels for 34cents a watt & the Exide (non deep cycle LOL!) golf cart batteries for $79/ea. The 19# genset is an inverter so it dousn't rev up under 500 watts so it will be very quiet as the A/C is. Like the diesel heater I plan to move with the weather but want to be prepared either way.

 

[highdesertranger]

yes on the BLM land. northern Nevada and eastern Oregon are both about 80% BLM/National Forest.

as far as a cell signal goes it depends. large areas have no cell service. but many areas have a good signal. it's diffidently not an area where you can get cell service everywhere. in fact if you look at everybody's coverage map there is a huge hole in the area with no service, largest area in the US with no service. that is something I consider a plus. but I understand some people need a signal for work.

highdesertranger

 

[jwh92020]

Riverman - I like the idea of 2 a/c units, but in a 12 ft trailer, it would probably be overkill. I spent some time on the phone with RMax (home Depot's foam board supplier) tech support this morning and their recommendations for my build are: since I am using a white metal roof material with a solar rejection of 82%, apply the ThermoPly (a 1/8" thick sheathing that is moisture resistant and acts as a radiant barrier) sheathing over the roof deck and use 1.5" (R10) in the ceiling. That will minimize the heat penetration through the roof. Apply the ThermoPly over the wall studs on the exterior, then apply the cedar cladding. Between the cedar and the ThermoPly, there is an R value of 1 on the exterior of the trailer. Then use 1.5" in the walls for a total R value of 11. Since the trailer will be wood framed and wood clad, thermal bridging is not much of an issue. The trailer frame will be 3" thick, so I'l attach 1.5" insulation to the bottom of the sub floor. With the metal road shield attached to the bottom of the frame and sealed, the dead air space will allow the foil to act as a radiant barrier. The weak spot in this plan will be the windows - I am using shed windows which are single pane. I'll cut Reflectix to cover the windows on the inside between he glass and the black out curtains. That should control most of the heat. The one thing RMax couldn't/wouldn't suggest is how big of an a/c to use. (It is out of their expertise). I'm going to frame for an 8k, but install a 5k and see how it works. The a/c will run on shore power of a generator, so if I have to go bigger, I'll have sufficient power to run it.

 

[RogerD]

This A/C only uses 3.4 amps Max so it will run on the 19# 1000/800 generator at night which I doubt I'll need much at night but the genset uses 1/2 gal per hour. I plan on 4 325watt panels for 34cents a watt & the Exide (non deep cycle LOL!) golf cart batteries for $79/ea. The 19# genset is an inverter so it dousn't rev up under 500 watts so it will be very quiet as the A/C is. Like the diesel heater I plan to move with the weather but want to be prepared either way.

3.4 amps is at 120v, not 12v.

At 12v it uses like 33 amps. However, it cycles so it will actually use less if well insulated. It also has an eco mode that doesn't run the fan when it cycles.

Where are you getting the solar panels from? Will you be able to fit 4 of that size on your vehicle?

 

[Riverman]

It's your trailer, but my point is the more insulation you have, the less the A/C will run and use power. Good luck.

 

[Gr8ful]

Yes 3.4 amps @ 120v They will fit on the ambo but I'll but them on the trailer so I can park in the shade & put the trailer in the sun. I may put the batteries on the trailer also, we'll see. There's a huge warehouse in SB,IN or a factory at Michigan City, IN. Both about an hour away.

 

[jwh92020]

Riverman - I appreciate the input and I'm not discounting your experience, so please don't take it that way. I'm going to try what RMax recommended with the 5k btu a/c I already have. Since I will power it with shore power or a generator, I'll use my existing unit rather than spend the $ for the one(s) mentioned above. I'll save that $ to put toward an 8k unit if the set up isn't cool enough.