'89 Dodge Camper conversion

[wrcsixeight]

<br />I've owned this Van since June of '01. &nbsp;It originally was a people mover conversion Van, and the first thing I did was rip out the captain's chair behind the driver and put in a cabinet with a sink, &nbsp;and a 7 gallon water tank with a Hand pump. &nbsp;I also removed the TV and crap up in the raised roof section so I could stuff my 9 1/2 foot surfboards up there out of the way.<br /><br />I also installed a Nicro 4 inch day night solar powered vent, then pretty much just started travelling, living from it.<br /><br />There were many small to medium modifications to it in the next six years, besides the engine and tranny rebuild, as well as learning how to work on the mechanicals myself. &nbsp;I am very familiar with throttle body injected Dodge Vans, so If you have Issues, I enjoy troubleshooting.<br /><br /> &nbsp;During those first 6 years I was figuring out what would be ideal for stealth camping and travelling, and interior comfort and convenience, and in the summer of '07, I gutted the interior again and rebuilt it to what I had planned in the previous years.<br /><br />This included adding 130 watts of Solar to my roof, and a compressor fridge, and a battery monitor for the 2 group 27 &nbsp;house batteries. &nbsp;<br /><br />The bed platform was designed for maximum storage underneath, and also to be easily removed so I can carry sheets of plywood &nbsp;or drywall inside as I am a carpenter by trade.<br /><br />Interior surfboard storage, lots of attachment points, and no wasted space were a priority. &nbsp;I did not go overboard on the insulation. &nbsp;1/2 inch aluminum faced foam board glued to the ceiling, and not much on the walls. &nbsp;The exterior is painted white with a roller, for heat reflection, and the general anonymity of a white Van. &nbsp;I am not overly concerned with the exterior appearance. &nbsp;I just don't want it to leak, and I do not want visible rust stains from the rotting roof gutters.<br /><br />While I have spent some time in it in well below freezing temps, mostly the climates I expected after the rebuild in '07 were mild to hot temps.<br /><br />From '04 to '08 I was spending at least 3 months a year down in Baja, camped on a bluff over the beach, and much of my conversion was with this type of camping in mind. &nbsp;Unfortunately on my last trip down there, right after the conversion, my Mexican friends had became meth addicts, liars and thieves. &nbsp;All my previous visits I never had any problems or anything stolen, my last trip I awoke to new footprints all around my camp from tweekers looking for something to steal. &nbsp;The Vibe was ruined for me. &nbsp;I left and have never returned, and this bums me out.<br /><br />I used to go down there with a full tank and supplies and 200$ and stay for 10 weeks and come back with at least a 20 for a police bribe if necessary. &nbsp;My last drive out I got rear ended In Tijuana. &nbsp;If I didn't have a trailer hitch I doubt I would have made it back. &nbsp;The gas tank would have ruptured. &nbsp;I also got lost trying to find the other border crossing, and to top it off one of my shocks sheared off and was hanging below my lower control arm. &nbsp;It was like the door slammed me in the ass on the way out, and I have just not had the courage to return down there.<br /><br />The rule always was never bring anything down there you could not afford to lose. &nbsp;I broke that rule too many times and lucked out. &nbsp;I just can't afford to lose this Van now, and with the proliferation of meth down there, I just don't trust being able to do what I used to do.<br /><br />In this thread I'll show the evolution of my Van since that interior rebuild of '07.<br /><br />I've also done some other things like rebuild my front suspension, add rear axle helper air bag springs, add another 68 watts of solar, and rewire my electrical cabinet which I will show as well, in stages.<br /><br />I will also add links to products I've used, and recommendations on how I would do it now if I were to do it again.<br /><br />I still have a list of &nbsp;small Modifications I would like to do, but really I am pretty much done with everything Major. &nbsp;The Van is comfortable, convenient, mechanically sound, and does not look too much like a camper Van, even with 200 watts of solar on the roof.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />

 

[Ricekila]

Photos ---- Photos <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wave.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" />

 

[wrcsixeight]

Here is the beginning of the rebuild in '07. &nbsp;I did not want to lose any head room my putting in a plywood &nbsp;subfloor, but I did not want a metal floor with throw rugs on it either.<br /><br />I filled the valleys in the floor with left over aluminum faced insulation, put down a vapor barrier and installed snap together laminate flooring going side to side directly on top. &nbsp;If I were to do it again, I would use real tongue and groove wood, and lay it diagonal, and put many many layers of polyurethane on it. &nbsp;The laminate flooring was easy to install, and has held up pretty well, but seams that have gotten wet have swollen, and some seams have fallen in the high traffic areas. &nbsp;I use a throw rug over most of that area now. &nbsp;It also squeaked/ creaked for a few months when new.<br /><br />

<br /><br />The foam strips were left over from when I insulated the fiberglass roof. It is held to the roof with contact cement. &nbsp;This cement can eat the foam, depending on the foam, it's facing and the cement. &nbsp;I lucked out and a test revealed I was safe in this regard. &nbsp;All seams were covered with aluminum foil tape. &nbsp;If I were to do it over. &nbsp;I would use Flexfix tape on the seams as it is stretchy. &nbsp;I probably would not use the Aluminum faced insulation either. &nbsp;The aluminum is only effective if it faces an open space without being covered. &nbsp;All the aluminum did was make it so an interior &nbsp;TV antenna would not work anymore.<br /><br /> Here is the front section.<br />

<br /><br />A 3/4" plywood shelf was added up front later. &nbsp;Spray foam was used to fill the gaps up front.<br /><br /><br />The windows came with the &nbsp;Ugly aluminum double L channel to pull the windows tight to the body. &nbsp;most are familiar with the conversion van packages where the foo foo veloured wall board with pink insulation and plastic window frames. &nbsp;I sent all that crap out in the trash years earlier. &nbsp;It reduced the width by 6 inches. &nbsp;No wasted space for me.&nbsp;<br /><br />I made some white oak window frames that are both window trim and pull the window tight to the body. &nbsp;Stained and polyurethaned. &nbsp;The white walls and roof are some 4x8 plastic sheets I bought at Lowes. &nbsp;about 1/8 inch thick. &nbsp;Said not for RV use. &nbsp;Bahhhh. &nbsp;It is slightly textured but cleans up pretty easily. &nbsp;On the ceiling, more oak holds it to the wood strips that are glassed inside the fiberglass roof from the factory. &nbsp;<br />

<br /><br />

<br /><br />All the wood is either oak or cedar, stained with walnut or red mahogany stain.<br /><br />On the walls, years earlier I had glued some 1/8" thick carpet underlayment. &nbsp;It is that blue stuff you can see on the fuel filler inlet. &nbsp;I just cut out the white plastic sheets to fit and laid it right over this underlayment/ insulation. &nbsp;The window frames hold it to the sides. &nbsp;No glue, but in some areas white Duct tape was used where it was convenient.<br /><br />Inside the side to side stained cedar strip &nbsp;on the ceiling runs the cable for my Solar panel. &nbsp;I have recently rebuilt this to encase more and thicker wires, and to be more structural. &nbsp;No pics yet.<br /><br />I used this same plastic on the doors, meaning at a later date to cover them with wood, but have never gotten around to it. &nbsp;They will make nice templates for when I do though. &nbsp;Just held on with stainless screws and fender washers.<br /><br />I also made some Oak door handles, and Oh $shite handles for the driver and passenger:<br />

<br /><br />A few years before this, I got sick of batteries inside, and welded up a box to put them below the floor. &nbsp;Here is the access hatch, and the manual battery switch. &nbsp;I would later build the cabinet around/ over this.<br />

<br /><br />Her are the batteries when looking from below:<br />

<br /><br />Those were mismatched batteries, and you can see how one spewed electrolyte. &nbsp;Always try and use identical age and make batteries for best performance and longest life.<br /><br />Ok this post is long enough.<br /><br />More to come.<br /><br /><br />

 

[Ricekila]

Did you pad the battries with something or are they sitting on the bare metal ? <img src="/images/boards/smilies/eek.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" />

 

[wrcsixeight]

The Laminate wood flooring is held down only by the things bolted down/screwed down on top of it.<br /><br />I always felt the third chair was too low for comfort, so I built a 1 1/2" thick plywood base. &nbsp; At this time I also treated and painted the rusted swivel seat bases and installed all three to hold down the floor.<br /><br /> I had originally planned on building a frame around the seams of the white plastic wall board I used up front overhead, but got frustrated and just used white duct tape. &nbsp;It has held up remarkably well, but here it is when new:<br /><br />

<br /><br />I &nbsp;bought a piece of warped 3/4 plywood for the shelf. &nbsp;I wanted the shelf over the driver passenger to to sag downward. &nbsp;It was going to sag anyway over time, and I did not want it pulling the van's sides in &nbsp;when that happened. &nbsp;I later installed an oak curtain rod to hang behind the seats. &nbsp;This is straight, and &nbsp;keeps most of the things I keep up there from sliding out. &nbsp;Mostly work clothes and dirty clothes go up there next to the nose of my 9'7" longboard.<br /><br />Here is the beginning of my fridge/ electrical cabinet. &nbsp;On the left is a thin closet for hanging some clothes. &nbsp;it does not go to the roof because I need to store large surfboards up there. &nbsp;It has a full length mirror on the door, and has a lock.<br /><br />

<br /><br /> &nbsp;I have not seen these photos in a while myself. &nbsp;The fridge is designed so Air flows underneath it, up along the compressor/ cooling fins, and out the top in front. &nbsp;I took off the feet of the fridge, added more insulation all around, and lifted the fridge off the floor, not only for air flow, but to allow easier access the things deep in the back. &nbsp;<br /><br />Behind where the fridge rests is the conversion Van sliding window. &nbsp;I bought some louvers, riveted them to the window, and painted them black. &nbsp;It is screened. &nbsp;I took the screw drive and motor from my old tri fold sofabed, and rigged it up so that it can open and close the window behind the fridge. &nbsp;You can see the rocker switch in another photo. &nbsp;It works well, and allows another exit path for the heat from the cooling fins and compressor.<br /><br />The two warts on the side of the closet are the solar charge controller, and the battery monitor. &nbsp;I have since moved the charge controller inside the cabinet closer to the batteries, but the battery monitor is still in the same place. &nbsp;I only look at it about 2 dozen times a day.<br /><br />Right &nbsp;now I am using 6.5 amps powering this laptop, 5 computer muffin fans, my lights and TV, am 43 amp hours from full, and my batteries are at 12.5 volts. &nbsp;My solar panels produced 84 amp hours today. &nbsp;I'll talk about my ventilation system in a later post.<br /><br />Here is what the battery monitor looks like:<br />

<br /><br />I can use this monitor to change &nbsp;solar charging voltages and duration at certain voltages of the charge controller. &nbsp; The way i have it wired, It also reads alternator amperage. &nbsp;One short word on this, &nbsp;Ignorance was bliss. &nbsp;The alternator amps taper to very little, very quickly. &nbsp;This is despite having a "130 amp" alternator with a significantly upgraded charging circuit and a smaller pulley.&nbsp;<br /><br />The shelf the fridge rests on has evolved greatly in the last 5 years. &nbsp;It is now covered in foam rubber, rests on hard rubber cleats, and is screwed to hard rubber cleats, all in an attempt to reduce noise and vibration. &nbsp;Here is the latest photo I have of it sans fridge.<br /> &nbsp;

<br /><br />

<br /><br />The above photo you can see the triangle. &nbsp;The compressor rests above this. &nbsp;I installed a fan that runs 24/7 here to aid airflow over the compressor fins. This is the fan which came with the Norcold fridge. &nbsp;it was only supposed to come on when temps by the compressor exceeded 120f. &nbsp;

<br /><br />I made a new mount and replaced that fan with 2 smaller ones to the original norcold wiring. &nbsp;I have only heard them come on once, when the connection on the other fan was compromised. &nbsp;Here those are:<br />

<br /><br />The single fan is silent, and moves a lot of air:<br />

<br /><br />After the warranty expired on this fridge, in an attempt to further isolate the compressor and reduce noise and vibration, I floated the compressors feet where it attaches to the fridge box. This was one of the more effective measures taken. &nbsp;I should state that this fridge was the cheapest Norcold sold. &nbsp;When it fails I will be going with a different brand as other report they are much quieter. &nbsp;The wooden feet are resting on 3 layers of a foil back rubber product.<br />

<br /><br />The cabinet is not square. &nbsp;It is as wide as the driver's arm rest up front, and gets narrower toward the closet in back. I have more storage under the fridge, a sliding drawer which the fan is attached to. &nbsp;You can see the vent holes I installed. &nbsp;I also replaced the black face panel with some stainless steel a customer no longer wanted in her kitchen.<br />

<br /><br />It is obvious I have gone to great lengths to quieten the fridge, and also make it more efficient.<br /><br />I also added a fan in the interior. &nbsp;It attaches to the top shelf &nbsp;behind the cold plate and blow downward. <br /><br />

<br /><br />&nbsp;

<br /><br />It make a huge difference in keeping all areas of the fridge cool, and how quickly it cools down items placed within. &nbsp;Seriously I could place 6 warm beers in the back under the fan, and in an hour they will all be below 40 degrees.<br /><br />The fridge might make more noise than I like, but I can't complain about it's performance. &nbsp;In 75 degree ambient temps it uses about 1 amp per hour. &nbsp;Without Solar I could run it alone for almost 5 days before my batteries fall to 50%, assuming that is the only load on the batteries and the van is not driven. &nbsp;With the solar, basically there is no limit, but after a week of &nbsp;thick clouds I might start feeling a little bad abusing the batteries by taking them and keeping them low.<br /><br />In the next installments I will show the bed build.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />

 

[wrcsixeight]

Ricekila,<br /><br />The batteries are resting on a 3/8 thick dense foam pad. &nbsp;The Tie down is also padded.<br /><br />

<br /><br />The Metal bar &nbsp;across the battery is also isolated from ground.<br /><br />

 

[Seraphim]

Looks good. Welcoeme to the group.

 

[PYSCHOWard]

Thanx a bunch the close up photo's help alot, is the fridge 12v or 110v ?<br />Where do you buy the small fans ? and what is the brand of the fridge you'll buy to replace the norcold ?

 

[wrcsixeight]

The fans are called case fans and for inside computer cases. &nbsp;They come in so many different sizes, and most are 12 volts dc though 5v dc and 120v ac are available too.<br /><br />The following site has a good selection, but I usually buy from Newegg or Amazon. &nbsp;My favorite fans are silverstone fm 121. &nbsp;4.75(120mm) inches, variable speed 33 to 110 cfm. &nbsp;less than 0.1 amps to 0.45 amps.<br /><a href="http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g36/Fans.html?id=Vx23oXXq">http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g36/Fans.html?id=Vx23oXXq</a>&nbsp;<br /><br />I've got 3 silverstones, two are running as I type, on low, silently.<br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-FM121-Control-Designs-120X120X25mm/dp/B000BWEIFU">http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-FM121-Control-Designs-120X120X25mm/dp/B000BWEIFU</a>&nbsp;<br /><br />These fans come in sizes from 25mm to 360mm.<br /><br />The fridge is both 12vdc and 120v ac. &nbsp;It switches to 120v automatically when grid power is available.<br /><br />Isotherm, Novakool, and Vitrifrigo are the brands I will consider if/when my Norcold fails. &nbsp;As long as it uses the Danfoss compressor.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|406&amp;id=10789">http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|406&amp;id=10789<br /><br />I</a>&nbsp;much prefer marine websites over RV store sites for browsing

 

[PYSCHOWard]

Thanx for the links, it helps when you know somethings been field tested.

 

[Ricekila]

Nice <img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" />

 

[wrcsixeight]

Okay, Since we are on the topic of ventilation, I will show what I use to make my Van a wind tunnel. &nbsp;Basically, in Full summer sun, with some custom made reflectix window shades in the 3 front windows, and my sleeping pillows bungee corded to the black conversion Van windows in back, the van stays below or at ambient temperatures until later afternoon when ambient temperatures fall. &nbsp;I can hang out inside all day on the hottest of days with with windows and doors closed and be comfortable enough.<br /><br />My first addition to my roof was the Nicro marine style Vent, 11 years ago. &nbsp;This is a &nbsp;4" solar powered vent that only moves ~1100 cubic feet per HOUR. &nbsp;It has a battery so it runs all night too. &nbsp;It is an earlier version of this model:<br /><br />

<br /><a href="http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|6880|45749|320600&amp;id=1193043"><br /><br /></a>It's best feature is that it will not leak, even at 80 mph in a thunderstorm, but it &nbsp;simply does not move enough air if the Van is not moving. &nbsp;A breeze over the vent helps, but not enough.<br /><br />After several years this vent's fan motor began clicking, especially at night when it got colder.<br /><br />In '97 I had acquired my first computer case fan (muffin fan) and placed this low cfm 4.75 inch/ 120mm fan upto the 4 inch hole and it was very obvious that much more air was being evacuated.&nbsp;<br /><br />A more powerful fan made me realize the Nicro's fan blade was obstructing flow. So I removed the fan blade. &nbsp;Then I removed the battery so it would not run at night and click all night. &nbsp;Then I covered the solar panel so it would not click all day. &nbsp;I had a real 130 watt solar panel by this time and was not worried about the minimal amp draw.<br /><br />From there I built a cedar and teak step down ring. &nbsp;From 4.75 inches to 4 inches. &nbsp;Then I started searching out &nbsp;better more powerful fans. &nbsp;The most powerful fan I had pulled 0.7 amps &nbsp;moved a lot of air but was too loud. &nbsp;I tried two fans in line, but found they just got louder without moving more air. &nbsp;Then I tried a Fan whose blades spun in the opposite direction inline with this fan, and the airflow increased greatly, as well as making the fans quieter. &nbsp;But .85 amps is too much draw, and it was still too loud.<br /><br />Then I found the Silverstone fan I posted a link to a few posts above. &nbsp;I extended the potentiometer (speed control dial) and installed it so I could reach it from my third chair, or from Bed. &nbsp;Both fans have separate switches I can reach from bed.<br /><br />Here is the counter rotating fan. &nbsp;It is a neat open design that is isolated on rubber footings.&nbsp;<br />

<br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Artic-Cooling...mp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ARCTIC+COOLING+AF12Pro">http://www.amazon.com/Artic-Cooling...mp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ARCTIC+COOLING+AF12Pro</a>&nbsp;<br /><br />I unfortunately broke all the feet, and all the supports, but A little fiberglass saturated with crazy glue and some screws and I got it back together again without the rubber isolation.<br /><br />The arctic cooling fan is rated at 53 cfm, the silverstone 110cfm. &nbsp;Obviously with the step down ring and the resistance of the mushroom vent it does not move 163 cfm, but it moves a lot of air none the less. &nbsp;If it is really hot with no threat of rain, I can pull off the mushroom vent and it is much quieter and moves even more air.<br /><br />I hold the arctic fan to the silverstone with some strong magnets that attract the screws provided with the fans. &nbsp;The silverstone fan is screwed to the step down ring, and the step down ring is held to the roof with some oak forks that come off of one of my roof supports. &nbsp;I have to slide it in or out for cleaning and have some small brads to hold the wires out of the way. This was a temporary design that has not been tampered with for 5 years now. In the winter time on the coldest nights I pull down the arctic fan and cover the silverstone 90% with a napkin then return the arctic fan to hold it in place.<br /><br /><br />

<br /><br />Here is a more recent shot that shows a little more:<br />

<br /><br />I'll discuss that &nbsp;homemade &nbsp;light in a later post within this thread. &nbsp;It will have &nbsp;MR16 LED's at some point in the future.<br /><br />I have found that 98% of the time, I do not need a two burner stove. &nbsp;I just use a single burner type which rests on a single green disposable propane bottle. &nbsp;I do all my cooking &nbsp;when sitting on the third Captain's chair, with the stove right under these fans. &nbsp;The ceiling does not get all dirty, but the fan blades do, and I have to bust out the q tipe a few times a year to clean the grease and dust and grime off the blades. &nbsp;This is not a fun task, but a clean fan is an efficient fan.<br />&nbsp;Here is about 3 months of build up cooking at least one meal a day under the fans:<br />

<br /><br />I have only cleaned the ceiling once in the last 5 years, the white paper towel barely got darker, the white ceiling not noticeably whiter. &nbsp;I have no fear of CO poisioning.<br /><br />For my intake fans, I made a plywood cutout for 3 120 mm fans and painted it black. &nbsp;This one only shows one silverstone whose frame I painted black and two 'Stinger' brand fans made for audio amps. &nbsp;These are very powerful and draw .7 amps each. &nbsp;I later used a black sharpie on the white fan blades, the purpose being to make it less visible to others outside the Van.<br /><br />Here you can see the black fans are pretty much invisible from outside the Van. &nbsp;I have the small hole chicken wire in addition to the &nbsp;regular screens over these windows to make thievery more difficult. But I almost never open the other side, and this with the fans has the 1/4 inch plywood fan mount screwed into the window frame as well.<br />

<br /><br />I mounted the silverstone speed control right on this fan itself. &nbsp;Each fan has it's own on and off switch.<br />

<br /><br /><br />These fans are right by my head when on my bed. &nbsp;It is easy to turn the fans on or off or adjust speed, and the silverstone fans on low are so quiet they do not bother me at all. &nbsp;The fresh breeze at night is very welcome, and the white noise is appreciated if dogs start barking/ kids start screaming, ect. &nbsp;My curtain has a flap that can direct the air to the sides and not directly on my head/ shoulders if I so choose.<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;<br />It is rare that I am too hot at night. &nbsp;If i am, a turn of the dial is all it takes. &nbsp;In fact, when I registered here early in the morning a few days ago, I had not slept all the night before, and was finally tired enough to sleep at about 11 am. &nbsp;I slept for 5 hours with all my fans on. &nbsp;I later found out that it reached 108 degrees that afternoon( &lt;20% humidity though). &nbsp;I had no idea it was so hot.<br /><br />A large reason for being able to sleep through those temps was my Fan designed to move air around inside my Van. &nbsp;This is a recent fabrication of mine, and I am very happy with it.<br /><br />

<br /><br /><br />I had a variable voltage ciggy plug adaptor for my old MP3 player I have not used in years, this one exactly:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Vector-Mfg-VE...857337&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=vector+vec+009">http://www.amazon.com/Vector-Mfg-VE...857337&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=vector+vec+009</a>&nbsp;<br /><br />I had an old adjustable neck clamp on 120 volt incandescent light wasting space in my storage unit. &nbsp;I took that adjust o neck and attached it to a real Spring clamp, and attached this fan to it:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-TD9238...857678&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=vantec+td9238h">http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-TD9238...857678&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=vantec+td9238h</a>&nbsp;<br /><br />The screw holes matched perfectly the width of the fan, as if it was meant to be.<br /><br />This 92mm diameter fan is an Absolute Roaring BEAST! &nbsp;When I &nbsp;first hooked it up loose to 12.8 volts on my table, it sucked itself right across the table. &nbsp;Rated for 118 cfm. &nbsp;In my opinion, it moves way way way more air than the 120 mm Silverstone fans that are rated up to 110 cfm. &nbsp;Whereas the silverstones seem to have four hotspots of faster moving air that exit at 30 degree angles from the fan, the Vantec Tornado sends a dense column of air straight &nbsp;out across the whole Van. &nbsp;From 4 feet away, the column of air is no more than 16 inches wide. &nbsp;Outside that 16 inch wide column, &nbsp;A match flame barely flickers, and the flame does not stand a chance within it. &nbsp;Even on lower voltages, the column of air is still narrow. &nbsp;This fan itself is a thing of beauty.<br /><br />The vector voltage controller works as a speed controller. &nbsp;I modified the dial with a knob( from the silverstone speed control) so I can turn it without the use of a tool as it was designed, and can operate the fan on the 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9, &nbsp;and 12 volt settings. &nbsp;The fan will not turn on the 1.5 volt setting. &nbsp;On the 3 volt setting it is nearly silent and sends a soft breeze and draws under 0.1 amps. It will not always start when plugged in on the 3 volt setting, but will on the 4.5 setting. &nbsp;On the 12 volt setting it is a roaring beast that draws one amp and is like putting your head out the window doing 25 mph. &nbsp;I rarely run it up there, rarely need that much wind. &nbsp;At 9 volts it is still pretty loud, but only draws 0.5 amps. At &nbsp;6 and 7.5 volts it is not very loud and still moves a good amount of air, and are the voltages I mostly use it on, and it has been running for a month straight now at least.<br /><br />Modifying the dial takes some skill. &nbsp;Here are others products where wire splicing and a finger nail is all that is required to change voltage/fan speed, which might fit the bill better for those wary of modifying things.&nbsp;<br /><a href="http://www.powerstream.com/dc6.htm">http://www.powerstream.com/dc6.htm</a>&nbsp;<br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/12V-2A-DC-To-Converter/dp/B000KGKFA4">http://www.amazon.com/12V-2A-DC-To-Converter/dp/B000KGKFA4</a>&nbsp;<br /><br />Make sure not to put fans rated at more than 2 amps to these devices.<br /><br /><br />In my Pic &nbsp;above, you can see the smaller 80 mm fan next to the 92 mm fan. &nbsp;I was so impressed with the 80mm that was rated at 83 cfm I just had to get the 92mm and it's claimed 118cfm. &nbsp;It has a 6 foot cord, and I have 7 ciggy plug outlets &nbsp;and counting all over my van, and attachment points to clamp it darn near anywhere I desire, and aim it anywhere I desire. The 92mm fan is supposedly louder than the 80mm, but imo, the pitch is lower seems quieter to me<br /><br />As I type &nbsp;this,I have it on 4.5 volts aimed at my chest from 3 feet away.&nbsp;<br /><br />I have more fans &nbsp;of other brands, which I rarely use, as I do not need them, but I think I am going to make another adjusto fan with the 80mm one just because it is so freaking awesome. &nbsp;I have tried many different fans, and while you can certainly find cheaper, and a few that are stronger, and many that are much weaker, these are the mac daddy's of fans. &nbsp;The fully variable speed silverstone fm 121 is by far the best 120 mm fan. &nbsp;I can't stress this enough. &nbsp;I paid half as much for one rated at less cfm that makes more noise, has only a single speed and draws more electricity to do so.<br /><br /><br />I do not have air conditioning, and I move this fan to blow on me when I am driving. &nbsp;I was at a drive through the other day with it clamped to the console aimed at my neck. The clerk said he could feel it, and it was only on 7.5 volts. &nbsp;12 volts elicited a curse.<br /><br />Bwahahahahahahaaaaaa.<br /><br />PS,<br /><br />If you have old desktop computers you can pull them apart for the fans within. &nbsp;Most will be 80mm and 12 volts dc but many other sizes are possible, and some are only 5 volts dc, but will say so on them. Red is positive, black negative, ignore the yellow wire. &nbsp;Easy to wire to a ciggy plug.<br /><br />If you are tearing into your old desktop, rip the magnets out of the harddrive, and stick them on your oil filter, or use them to hold things to the walls, or screens to your windows. &nbsp;Careful though, they are ridiculously strong magnets.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />

 

[sparky1]

Thanks for the great write up &amp; Pictures,,

 

[simply lesa]

hooyah - i told my son computer fans would work thanks man

 

[wrcsixeight]

Well, I seemed to have jinxed myself. My fridge failed early this morning. &nbsp;Compressor runs for 7 seconds and off for 5 seconds. &nbsp;Cold plate is now warm. &nbsp;<br /><br />&nbsp;I found lately it was consuming less amperage when the compressor was running, but it was running more often than normal, and consuming more energy per 24 hours &nbsp;compared to when it was new. &nbsp;I guess It lost enough refrigerant to finally give up the ghost.<br /><br />I guess I should count myself lucky it lasted 5+ years, but replacing it is a budget breaker, and living without it is not desirable either. &nbsp;I calculated i was spending about 450$ a year on ice blocks before I had the fridge, not including the gas to go get it &nbsp;every 4 to 5 days.<br /><br />I have not even seen block Ice available around here lately.<br /><br />Balls

 

[Ricekila]

Compressor runs for 7 seconds and off for 5 seconds

<br /><br />Low freon or faulty pressure switch <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" />

 

[wrcsixeight]

I think low freon because the amp draw was getting lower and lower over the last few months while the compressor was running, and it's run time was increasing. &nbsp;It is not rechargeable.<br /><br />I'm shopping for a new one, probably gonna be Waeco/ dometic.

 

[Camping Cajun]

To [font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]wrcsixeight  or any group member,[/font]

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I would anyone's thoughts on any changes, advances since this post and subsequent replies were posted in 2012. Do any of the mods / techniques / products / approaches still prove as recommended?[/font]

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I am researching posts like this that deal with vans similar to mine. On this site and other sites. I have a few bookmarked references as far as ideal mod designs, educational information / photos, solar etc. [/font]

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I have a great deal to learn particularly re: electrical..... I imagine I will be consulting, contracting etc.[/font]

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Many thanks.[/font]

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]C.C.[/font]