83 Chevy Carburetor Issues

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Von thinks I need a whole new engine. Thank you all for your concern. It will be a long, long time before I can afford anything like that. Sorry I haven’t responded to messages. I have a hard time navigating this site in my phone. If you are the praying type please keep me in your prayers. If not please send positive thoughts and energy my way. Thank you everyone. [emoji3590]


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Still no symptoms. Why thinking a new engine?
 
^^^Aftermarket carb does not warrant a whole new engine.

I used aftermarket carbs (Holly's) most of my life and never had to replace an engine because of one.
 
B and C said:
^^^Aftermarket carb does not warrant a whole new engine.
One would not necessarily expect that either. So far, actual facts are very sketchy. The other thread just adds a bit more perspective. "Truck not run good" doesn't help much from 2,000 miles away.
 
although I would never use a Holly carb on a vehicle of mine, it shouldn't have caused engine damage unless it was driven for a long time in a to rich or to lean condition. however if Von Brown says it needs an engine I believe it needs an engine. BTW I just happen to have a couple of Chevy small blocks. highdesertranger
 
From the one picture we saw it looked well worth fixing especially with the hightop. Maybe a go fund me or something similar would be in order.
 
It's quite simple really.
Everyone has replaced the carburetor with new, the complete distributor with new including spark plugs, and spark plug wires with new and the v8 engine still misses and lacks power.
My thoughts on this is this, this tired old engine has been misdiagnosis for way to long. Obviously the condition is internal. My first thought is a worn timing chain. This would contribute to the lack of power. My second thought is worn cam shaft lobe(s) and lifters too. Don't forget worn or burnt valve(s). This will contribute to a cylinder(s) miss.
The point being is it makes no sense to disassemble the top end and replace timing chain, camshaft and lifters, valve job on this high mileage Chevy engine unless you bring the lower end up to par or new crankshaft, bearings, piston rings, ECT.
Thus my decision. The van itself is in great shape, it's a clean class b. It just has seen better days but worth putting a new or rebuilt engine in her.
Like I said to Maggie, new carbs and distributors will not fix your problem. The problem is internal. She needs an overhaul.
Of course now comes the steps to confirm my diagnosis. I would do a compression test first then to determine a worn timing chain I would line up TDC with 0, then, observing the distrbutor shaft for movement, i rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction at which point I would note on the timing marks the amount of slack in that chain. I would then disassemble the top end (remove the carb and intake manifold and valve covers to visually inspect the valve train.
If you understand how a 4 stroke internal combustion engine works, you would understand my overhaul desicion.
....plainly this person has spent a lot of money on unnecessary parts that did not repair the problem.
On a positive note, she already has a third of the new engine in parts already.
I do not want this to turn into a debate about engine repair. I just want to be helpful to others by sharing my skill set. You of course may determine your own diagnosis, but as a retired professional auto mechanic with nearly 40 years experience and raising a family on that income, I have no need to prove my expertise to you or anyone else, especially on a public forum. My interest is to help Maggie continue her journey in vandwelling and to preserve and raise the value of her van that in my opinion, is worth saving.
 
VB, given your experience, you're probably not gonna get much disagreement. People here were wondering what the situation was, and didn't have much data to go on. It's good Maggie has found some help.
 
bullfrog said:
From the one picture we saw it looked well worth fixing especially with the hightop. Maybe a go fund me or something similar would be in order.
Bob Wells has been talking about setting up a fund to help people like Maggie. Luckily RTR is just a few weeks away, and HDR will no doubt seek her out. I hope.
 
It's clear to me VonBrown has a very informed opinion. It might need an engine. Still... I just have a niggle in the back of my mind... There were no mentions of a starting problem, rough idle, noises, or smoke (blue or black). If it were mechanical I'd think one or several of those symptoms would be present. My understanding is that it simply was loosing power or she was on the road and it suddenly started running poor.

I'd suggest to rule out a couple of more things before pulling the trigger on an engine rebuild. My thoughts go to a plugged fuel strainer sock inside the tank or a clogged catalytic or muffler. Both would start and idle fairly well, then performance would degrade when driving down the road. Sure, a flat intake lobe could cause similar, but there would likely be a noticeable tick. An aftermarket carb can be too rich for a catalytic, but that wouldn't tend to cause a drivability issue until after the catalyst burned up. I like Holleys, Carters, and Rochesters, they're all good carbs but not everyone understands the nuances and how to tune them. A rich mix and/or ignition misfires can kill a catalyst by melting the ceramic monolith and restricting the exhaust. Does it have a hissing sound or rotten eggs stench from the exhaust? I'd also do vacuum and compression checks to verify.
 
wow did you say a Carter carburetor. you must be an old timer. today everyone thinks those are Edelbrocks and don't realize Edelbrock bought the design from Carter. very good design IMO, simple, reliable easy to rebuild and tune. highdesertranger
 
Remembering that a vacuum gauge is a handy tool to verify a restricted exhaust, also indication of compression and timing. Maybe another clue to determine whats happening. I didn't here any mention of miles on vehicle over 150K? 350 cubic inch engine? Rough running I would pull plug wires at 1500rpm and see if all cylinders are contributing or is one or more dead. It is possible  as mentioned cam and timing chain issues.. Does this engine have EGR valve type emission controls? Just thinking out loud sometime below 100k you can squeeze another 5years with cylinder head work. Although it would be a lot of time plus parts for cam, lifters, timing chain and top end work if its needed and very tired too. Not questioning anybody just more input on the effort.
 
Since we don't know the age of the engine and if it has ever been replaced or rebuilt then all we can do is guess.

I will say one thing after replacing many engines in vehicles for 65 years... IF this motor is a 1983 model, it sure is tired and needs to be replaced with a new one.

The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”
– Benjamin Franklin
 
highdesertranger said:
wow did you say a Carter carburetor.   you must be an old timer.  today everyone thinks those are Edelbrocks and don't realize Edelbrock bought the design from Carter.  very good design IMO,  simple,  reliable  easy to rebuild and tune. highdesertranger

Yup! Had a pair of AFB's on my first car, a '68 Camaro with a built 396 that I'd street race for $20's and bracket drags at Riverside.  There's a reason why Edelbrock bought the rights, reliable, easy to tune, and lots of control over the mid-range just after throttle tip-in.  Here's something... do you remember the plastic Thermoquads?  I earned some real good money rebuilding and tuning all types of carbs for guys that didn't understand them.  Had a pretty good following of hot rod guys bring cars in to me.  Most wouldn't idle or would die on throttle application.  For some reason nobody knows how to sync dual carbs and set the idles...its like some deep dark hidden mystery, but set them up right and they run like a beast.  Good times!!!  :)   Not a really old timer, just fortunate to have some very good mentors that were old timers, and I knew enough to be quiet, watch, listen, and learn...
 
There is a ticking noise. Someone thought it was a plug wire. Anyway, there is no way I can afford a new engine and am going to have to limp around with it until I can save up enough to do anything.
Does anyone know how much a compression check might cost? And if putting in a different carburetor might help me get a few thousand more miles out of it?
I feel okay with driving it up to 100 miles at a time but not much more than that. Going up hills is a challenge and found myself downshifting with all the semis on the way down here from Washington state.
Thank you everyone for your concern. I also was under the impression that Bob was trying to set up some deal with mechanics to help nomads.
I will be in the Ehrenberg area until it gets too hot and will move up to Sedona and parts North.
Thank you again everyone. If you hear anything about Bob’s mechanic program please let me know.
 
A cheap compression gauge is $29. Shop labor is around $100 an hour.

The ticking noise could be a grounded plug wire, makes a motor run rough.
 

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