compassrose
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- Nov 8, 2013
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I see a problem with your drum idea. If you are laying it on it's side the you will have a ground clearance problem. If upright, you can put the drain in the flat bottom like a sink drain (will drop your line down to 1-1/2 or 1-1/4" pipe ... use an "agricultural" 1/4 turn ball valve on it to open/close) and mount it inside your vehicle. I have 20" skirts on my bus with a lot of road clearance below that. I will not use drums. This is what I am doing. Will it cost more? Maybe. Probably. Will it fit where I need it to fit? Most definitely. Maybe it will give you some ideas...
Please keep in mind that this is in a 40 ft fulltime residence skoolie conversion. It is NOT a stealthy van. I am about as stealthy as a pink elephant with purple polka-dots...
I currently have a too small RV black tank and no grey tanks (throwing away what I have). Once I get into my daughter's back yard, I will drop the too small RV black tank and build two new tanks. One grey, one black. They will be made from 1/2" exterior plywood | 3/4" rigid foam house insulation |1/2" exterior plywood | vinyl pond liner glued to plywood with PL375 adhesive (seams will be glued up with vinyl shower pan liner glue there a 1X2 (3/4" x1-1/2") frame sandwiched between the plywood along with the insulation - everything will be glued & screwed together). I will be able to mount the fittings more securely as well (solid block of wood where the fittings attach). The exterior will be painted with two coats of Deckover that I bought for $30 ( 5 gallon bucket from the oops! counter @ Home Depot) to seal against the road grime and spray. It is a variation of the very old Fiberglass-on-Plywood tank building method that many of the coach converters use. And I can make the tanks fit where I want the tanks to fit. I'm running SuperStrut lengthwise off of the floor framing and that will be used to hang water & waste tanks as well as LP tanks, LP generator and an air compressor (I have REALLY big tires). The Superstrut is bolted thru the floor frames every 27" (where an "L" shaped framing member already has a couple holes drilled into it) and the nuts have a dab of EU6000 to keep them from unthreading due to road vibration (yet I can still get them off again... just not easily). I do have a question in my mind that I will need to make a decision on (and some measurements). I have a large space at the rear of the bus that will hold nothing... I could run my grey water to a tank there. It would give me a much larger grey tank and a much larger black tank. A much larger black tank would be nice since I have a residential toilet (replaced toilet lid with oak one I already had that matched the wall-covering & used a foam sewer seal) and currently the black tank will only hold 8 flushes (estimate about a 10 gallon black tank). When I am on full hookups, I bypass my waste holding tanks. Having a residential toilet allows me that luxury.
Like I said, I am not a van. But maybe what I am doing will give you some ideas that you can use in your van. Good luck. BTW, here is a link to just one of many tank calculators that you can use to play with numbers. Panner has a tank specification calculator will let you design a tank based on capacity (gallons)and you can download it to your computer to use offline. On Panner, to use a cylinder, visualize the pipe/drum standing on end, the bottom is always "FLAT"
Please keep in mind that this is in a 40 ft fulltime residence skoolie conversion. It is NOT a stealthy van. I am about as stealthy as a pink elephant with purple polka-dots...
I currently have a too small RV black tank and no grey tanks (throwing away what I have). Once I get into my daughter's back yard, I will drop the too small RV black tank and build two new tanks. One grey, one black. They will be made from 1/2" exterior plywood | 3/4" rigid foam house insulation |1/2" exterior plywood | vinyl pond liner glued to plywood with PL375 adhesive (seams will be glued up with vinyl shower pan liner glue there a 1X2 (3/4" x1-1/2") frame sandwiched between the plywood along with the insulation - everything will be glued & screwed together). I will be able to mount the fittings more securely as well (solid block of wood where the fittings attach). The exterior will be painted with two coats of Deckover that I bought for $30 ( 5 gallon bucket from the oops! counter @ Home Depot) to seal against the road grime and spray. It is a variation of the very old Fiberglass-on-Plywood tank building method that many of the coach converters use. And I can make the tanks fit where I want the tanks to fit. I'm running SuperStrut lengthwise off of the floor framing and that will be used to hang water & waste tanks as well as LP tanks, LP generator and an air compressor (I have REALLY big tires). The Superstrut is bolted thru the floor frames every 27" (where an "L" shaped framing member already has a couple holes drilled into it) and the nuts have a dab of EU6000 to keep them from unthreading due to road vibration (yet I can still get them off again... just not easily). I do have a question in my mind that I will need to make a decision on (and some measurements). I have a large space at the rear of the bus that will hold nothing... I could run my grey water to a tank there. It would give me a much larger grey tank and a much larger black tank. A much larger black tank would be nice since I have a residential toilet (replaced toilet lid with oak one I already had that matched the wall-covering & used a foam sewer seal) and currently the black tank will only hold 8 flushes (estimate about a 10 gallon black tank). When I am on full hookups, I bypass my waste holding tanks. Having a residential toilet allows me that luxury.
Like I said, I am not a van. But maybe what I am doing will give you some ideas that you can use in your van. Good luck. BTW, here is a link to just one of many tank calculators that you can use to play with numbers. Panner has a tank specification calculator will let you design a tank based on capacity (gallons)and you can download it to your computer to use offline. On Panner, to use a cylinder, visualize the pipe/drum standing on end, the bottom is always "FLAT"