2018 Promaster 136" HT Build

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dklassen

dklassen

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2017
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Location
Spring Hill, TN
Greetings all! The day finally arrived after a long 5 month wait from the factory. The Promaster is finally home [img=16x16]https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/fce/1/16/1f600.png[/img][SIZE=1] [/SIZE]and the Jeep has been retired. [img=16x16]https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/fbd/1/16/1f62a.png[/img]

Time for the build to begin. Folks seem to name their campers so... meet The Cracker Box.
Going to try and keep the build pretty simple and modular. I have the IKEA Skorva adjustable rails and brackets for the bed platform. Also have the upper and lower factory side panels so I'm doing Thinsulate behind those, a Van Rug, ARB fridge, Camco 57331 Olympian Wave-3 Catalytic Heater, porta potty, galley with sink, dual burner stove of some kind, TV/DVD, Maxxair fan, 200w solar, couple of AGM's for the house and a battery isolator (It's my daily driver at least for a while).

Not sure what I'm going to do for the celling yet or the final finish work later on. Once I get everything functional I may enlist the help of a finish carpenter to box everything in and make it look pretty with cabinets and drawers. Also toying with the idea of doing an 80/20 build instead of all wood to keep it more modular.

It will generally be a local weekend warrior so no hard core winter camping in Alaska or summers in Death Valley. My goal is simple, clean functional and modular.

Even though it's going to be a bit of a slow build ($ as I get them) managed to get a first few steps in this weekend. The BedRug and some Noico sound deadening material.
 

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The Cracker Box It's gorgeous, especially with that sliding door window. The tinted/frameless windows are supah foxy.  It'd be hilarious to get a wrap job to make the van look like a box of Premium Saltines:

[img=200x200]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81b-G7qV2zL._SY355_.jpg[/img]
:)  I think you'll like working and playing in the Promaster; lots of room and straight walls.  I'm completely happy with mine and so were the other owners at the RTR I asked.  Most common answer was an excited "we love it!"  Lots of smiles.

Have you looked at the built-in rack mountpoints yet?  No drilling.  I think 100% of the racked PMs at the RTR (including mine) had Vantech H3 2-or-3-bar racks with endcaps rather than the sticky-up ladder retainers.  Endcaps are less likely to throw shadows on panels.

Did you notice the area just behind the cab that is ribless so you can put a fan there without building up between ribs?  You may not choose to use it but it's a nice feature.



I put mine in that spot then put a passive vent on a rear door for crossflow:



It works quite well.  Glued in a screen to keep bugs out, yo.

Unsolicited advice:  when planning your roof layout do keep the shadow of the maxxfan's deployed position in mind.  It's not real tall but if the panel were mounted right next to it they might catch some shadows.

But wait -- even more Unsolicited Advice!  The rooftop of the PM is crazy big.  Commercial (72-cell nominal 24v) panels are also crazy big.  Since they tend to be cheaper by the watt you might consider finding something Craigslist.  You could probably find a 300w 24v panel off craiglist for the same money as 2x 100w 12v panels from ebay/amazon/homedepot/etc.   500w (!) + maxxfan will fit on the 136" while drunk and blindfolded.  600w (!!) + maxxfan will fit on the 136" with a bit of planning (and optional sobriety).  

I've collected some info on the PM in case you haven't seen some of it before.

Keep us posted!
 
I agree, really liking the project so far. Good advise, thanks. The rug and the sound dampener really quieted things down inside. I'm sure it will only get better with the insulation.

I'll probably end up leaving the solar for last given we're only going to be doing over nighters at first and I drive the van almost every day. I think a Battery Doctor should do the trick for awhile.

I was just looking at the H3, it's on my list for sure. Also decided the fan will go up front.
 
Where are you located?  I have a full set of pro master roof racks new in the box.
 
dklassen said:
I'll probably end up leaving the solar for last given we're only going to be doing over nighters at first and I drive the van almost every day. I think a Battery Doctor should do the trick for awhile.
Click to expand...

Battery Doctor is very good;  I really like mine and the run from underfloor battery to house battery can be quite simple.  Have you already installed yours?  Is the bank there already?

The caveat of alternator-only charging is the bank won't get charged fully unless:

  • the vehicle is driven for hours; or
  • the house battery is lithium, carbon foam, or some other exotic chemistry
due to relatively alternator output voltage and the extended duration of a full Absorption cycle.  Adding solar to the mix will really help.

You may want to run an extension cord (or install a shore power port) to keep the batts topped off a couple times a week until the solar is mounted.  Another benefit of a shore power outlet is you can run your tools inside off a power strip instead of leaving a window or door cracked for an extension cord in the rain...

In this pic you can see the port installed (and cord attached) in the shadows under the ladder.  I think that was the day I cut the vent hole in the roof.  /unfounded f33r :)

 
Techie nit picks follow, if not interested please ignore

> The caveat of alternator-only charging is the bank won't get charged fully unless:
> * the vehicle is driven for hours; or
> * the house battery is lithium, carbon foam, or some other exotic chemistry

"hours", as in at least 5 hours likely 7+, which regular lead batts need for longevity at least a few times a week

For LFP, there is just no need at all to get to full, in fact longevity is enhanced sitting at low SoC. And yes they do get full much more quickly, under an hour given enough amps current.

Now for Firefly Oasis batts - not some generic carbon foam category, they are unique.

Still want to get to 100% Full periodically for *maximum* longevity.

Still require the 5-7 hour "long tail" to get there.

Difference is they withstand PSOC abuse much better than other lead; their protocol for restoring AH capacity is unique.

But that process does require many hours and precise control, so mains power.

And their longevity is still reduced if it is performed less rather than more frequently.

Same with drawing down below 50% SoC.

So yes, Firefly can be seen as giving similar advantages to LFP at lower cost, but that idea needs to be qualified because of very fundamental differences.

And it is definitely not the case that they will get to Full in a shorter time than other AGM.
 
Right over my head John but that's not hard to do. Haven't done a thing in terms of power yet. Next steps are to get the bed platform in, walls insulated and the factory panels back in. After that I need to build out a battery and electronics box that will go behind the drives seat. May try 80/20 for that.
 
I’m planning on doing my build with 80/20 too. Love that stuff. If you search YouTube for “extruded aluminum sprinter” there’s a guy who walked thru doing his kitchen with 80/20.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Did a rough 3D model of a layout I'm considering. Passenger side galley, porta potty behind the passenger seat, battery box and electrical right behind the driver, Dometic fridge on top of that, some storage cabinets next to that and of course the bed platform. Still deciding on what's under the bed but more storage I suspect.

The other layout I really like are the twin beds in the back one on each side running lengthwise with a table in the middle.
 

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What did you do the layout in? I’ve been working in 2D and need an easy to use 3D app.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Going slow but making some progress these last couple weeks. Still can't decide whether to attempt an 80/20 build or go for wood. I'm no klutz but woodworking is pretty foreign to me. I love the thought of 80/20 all be it expensive but there is something to be said for being able to go down to home depot and pick up whatever you need.
 
I was planning to do 80/20 but ran out of time to do the research and learning. I ended up using light wood for structures other than the bed spans which are 2x4.
 
Stainless steel bowls are priced well at Indian markets. Lots of stainless in that culture for some reason.

I got my sink used from the Habitat for Humanity resale shop for $15:

 
I see that CamperVanKevin on YouTube traded off his BT Cruiser and Geo Tracker for a Promaster.

He might need to have a small trailer for the three dogs!

:cool:
 
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