1982 Starcraft travel trailer mods

[StarEcho]

Hi all, I'm hoping for some help/advice/comments on modifying my trailer to better fit my needs.

The first thing I want to do is have a full time bed, basically get rid of the dinette by day, bed by night concept. Too small for that and I really don't want to be bothered making up a bed at night. So my plan is to get rid of that uber heavy table and put supports around the top where the table used to sit and on the sides under the windows there, and put a one piece piece of plywood there with hinges and a bed lift so that I can lift it up to access the storage space that is made by lifting the bed.

Second thing I'm doing is working on lowering the noise that old water pump makes. Right now I'm trying to get everything torn apart so I can actually get to the hot water heater and pump on one side and the water tank on the other. I'm stuck on the panels that separate the sections from the spot under where the table was. Not sure if they are glued there or what but I can't seem to get them to separate without tearing it. Guess I'll have to saw the panels out and have some help making sure I don't saw through the converter wires :s Any other ideas? I've tried prying them apart but all it does is splinter it. Oh well.

This trailer has a tiny and I emphasize *tiny* bathroom, with a toilet and shower. The plumbing for the toilet is messed up so for now it's capped off. I could fix it easily enough but my plan is to ultimately get rid of the toilet altogether in favor of the ol bucket. I really do want the shower though. For now, I'll use the existing toilet as a makeshift bucket. LOL

There is a horribly loud furnace, which I'm not going to use at all. To start with I'll use a portable catalytic propane heater and as finances allow, I'll switch that out to an Olympic Wave. That will also free up space in that area for a tankless water heater (when I can afford that). I'm planning to use one that's made for outdoors cause it's a heck of a lot cheaper, but I promise I will vent it to outside. I don't actually plan on doing that part myself, but I know an RV guy who says he can do it for me. I only want it to heat shower water, so it's the perfect location for that.

Another thing I plan to do is put 12volt outlets throughout. Which won't be particularly hard since it's such a small space. Obviously the makers never intended this trailer to be used anywhere other than a campground with electric hookups.

What I'd really like to do is put a cargo carrier on the back (get one welded on) but I doubt that will be possible because of too much weight at the back of the trailer. ???? All my cargo basically will be stored underneath the bed. Can't store anything in the front of the trailer as that's the kitchen area and shower.

So if the back is out (is it?) then that only leaves me the tongue to add anything to. Not much space there at all, so don't know if I can there either. The only thing I can think of there is to have a shelf welded above the existing propane tank?

Now regarding the roof. Eventually solar panels will be needed. This is probably a stupid question but do you think it's possible to add a cargo trailer style roof rack to this trailer?

And of course I do realize I'm going to want to scrape that grout off and redo that after cleaning the roof. Also in the plans are some type of fantastic fan and vent cover.

Right now there is an awning which works ok, but nothing fantastic. Since most of the places I plan to go are known for high winds, I've found an awning is kind of wasted. And this one was obviously an afterthought. Either that or horrendous planning since one of the supports blocks the jalousie window from opening unless the awning is out! So thinking I might just take that awning off. I was going to add a picture, but it looks like I've reached the limit of pics in a post, so refer to one of the ones above that show the awning.

So what do you think? Any ideas on getting that stupid panel to separate from the compartment frame? What about the cargo trailer roof rack? cargo rack on back or front?

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[Patrick46]

Hi Cindi!!

This is kinda funny to me, as I got my wife a 1967 Aladdin 10' canned-ham camper last year. The layout is nearly identical to yours, but we don't have a bathroom, so guess what I get to do???


Onna of the first mods I did to it was to build a bed shelf over the dinette, just like you've got planned for yours...but our's will not tilt up. We'll hafta just dig our junk out from underneith...but we probably will use totes under there, so it'll kinda work like drawers. (not like we'll be getting much outta there anyways.

As for your roof...I'd seriously look into getting a new rubber roof professionally installed on it. Yeah, it'll cost a bit, but it'll save the life of your trailer, and that's money in the bank ta me! (good investment.)

I also like your water heater idea, as that's exactally what we're gonna do too. (have you been secretely reading my posts???)

I also think some sort of roof rack for your panels is a great idea as well. You may hafta get one custom made for it though...and I'd be very careful as to how much weight you stick up there. These older campers are NOT designed to hold any weight on their roofs.


This should be a great build! I'll be checking this one often!

 

[LeeRevell]

Looks to be enough room either side of the propane tank for a deep cycle battery box, or a locking metal storage box.
I wouldn't put too much 'cargo' on the roof - likely not strong enough for much of a load. I'd maybe go with a couple moderate sized solar panels.
There's just so much you can do with a 'canned ham' TT. It's cute though - prettier than the little fiberglass egg trailers like Casitas and Scamps.

 

[decodancer]

I took the dinette out of my 17 footer and replaced it with a daybed for the same reason you are doing it. Took it out of my current 28 footer to make a desk. The side panels are a bear to get out. Between the glue and the three inch screws, I was ready to hang myself by the time I got them out. I basically destroyed then using jigsaw, hammer, and pry bar. In my new setup, I simply left them in and built up over them, using mending plates to attach the new structure. I made a removable shelf to access the equipment underneath and put doors on the front to make it look nice. Instead of a lifting bed, what about building a box (or boxes) on wheels. You could pull them out to get to things. I use my under bed area for things I don't use every day, out of season clothes etc. so it's not necessary to have super easy access. I made one mistake you might want to avoid. I raised the bed in my van higher to put a mini fridge under it. There are storage cabinets above and now I can't sit up in bed except on the outer foot of the mattress. I cant change it now but wish I'd thought about that. Good luck on your remodel.

 

[SoulRaven]

You want to keep as much weight off that tongue as possible if you live in the Northeast.

Add weight up front inside the trailer if you get the death wiggle.

I have seen many light duty single axle cargo trailers with the tongues snapped clean off along the sides of I-80 and I-81.

Depending on the size and weight of the solar panel think about using the front rock guard as an adjustable mount.

 

[Patrick46]

you could always get those solar panels that come mounted on their own tripod stand. (like a cymbal or microphone stand)

The nice thing about this set-up, is you can move it anywhere you want to maximise the sun's rays, and you can easily store it inside when not in use or when on the road. (this also greatly reduce the threat of theft!)

you no longer would hafta build a roof rack, and you'd remove the potential rooftop damage having them up there.

 

[StarEcho]

You want to keep as much weight off that tongue as possible if you live in the Northeast.

Add weight up front inside the trailer if you get the death wiggle.

I have seen many light duty single axle cargo trailers with the tongues snapped clean off along the sides of I-80 and I-81.

Depending on the size and weight of the solar panel think about using the front rock guard as an adjustable mount.

I was wondering about putting a solar panel on the rock guard...I just was worried that the weight of one might be too much for the hinges.

I'm in Colorado, but just curious what the Northeast would have to do with it? The tongue weight can't be more than 500 lbs for my hitch and Jeep. The trailer weighs around 2500 lbs so the tongue weight currently is probably around 250 lbs so I think it would be ok, but I will watch it. I do have a weight distribution hitch more for the sway control than anything else. Also, my batteries are actually located in the trailer itself in a sealed and vented compartment in the passenger side dinette bench, so that weight is pretty much in the back of the trailer already. I really just want some storage outside the trailer for the jacks and WDH bars, and other messy stuff.

I do want to keep it simple though, and I can only do so much each month as I get funds, so I can give up the idea of cargo boxes on the front and/or back. But if it's feasible I think I will eventually do that.

The only thing the cargo rack on the roof would be for would be the solar panels. I could fit more up there if they were raised above the roof and I could use the space above the vent. Also for the shade and keeping it cooler. No ac. But that's for a ways down the road.

I do plan to redo the roof Patrick, I agree it's necessary and a good investment.

About removing the panels decodancer, I think I'm doing a mixture of what you described. I'm keeping the two bench compartment structures, but I need to at least get rid of that one panel so I can access the water pipe going into the hot water heater. I want to put a bypass there and there is no way I can do that with it right up against the panel so that panel has to go. Then I figured I'd build up from there. I really want the gas lift arms though and it doesn't seem to be too complicated to put in (already got the pieces) so hope it goes as well as I envision. I'll take pics when I get to that. I hear you all about the bins and such and I do plan on using bins and containers. I just know myself and always, without fail, the thing I need will be at the back and under everything else. And I want to be able to access my water pump, water heater, and water tank if necessary, without having to take everything out of the middle space and from on top of the bench (which raises up to access the water heater) and then crawling over to be able to fix something.

And believe me, I've measured the available space above where I plan to put the bed to be sure I can sit there! That's pretty important, I agree.

Thanks so much for everyone's input. I'll update as I get things done. Thanks again!

 

[SoulRaven]

The roads are so bad in the Northeast that metal fatigues and breaks especially when it’s 30 year old steel.

If you put your trailer on a scale you will find it is more like 1500 pounds.

Back in the day I had a 13.5 foot Sunline. It was 6”3” wide and dual propane tanks + battery on the tongue with a tongue weight of over 300 pounds.

 

[wagoneer]

you got me thinking about trailer weight I have a 21 ft Holiday Rambler 100% stock a little longer than i want but the room is great to have and get in trouble with. The couch/bed is in my opinion a waste of space I don't mind the dinette as much as it's at a large window. I have a bathroom scale that goes to 300 pounds have any of you tried to measure the tongue weight?

 

[StarEcho]

Hi again,

I've been trying for a week to get my plumbing set up correctly, but it's just not working. I've thought about giving up and getting someone to do it for me, but cost aside, it just bugs me that I'm not getting it and I don't want to admit defeat.

In all the research I've done I've never seen a hot water heater set up like the picture above. There is a cold water line that goes straight into and past the hot water heater instead of just into the hot water heater.

So I wanted to add a hot water heater bypass...

I figured that if I wanted the antifreeze to actually NOT go into the hot water heater I would need to put a cut off valve there too.

Ok, cool, but I get it all set up and I swear that I set it all up correctly, with all tight connections...but I turn the pump on and it runs and runs and runs and runs and no water is pumped.

I take the water line off the inlet side of the pump and suck and water comes though easily so it's not constricted on the inlet side. I take the line of the outlet side of the pump and turn the pump on and nothing comes out of the pump.

So I figure, that I'm just ultra unlucky and a pump that worked before I added the bypass now does not work... I buy another pump.

Same thing happens. I fiddle with the connections on the inlet side again and voila! Water starts to come out the cold water faucets, intermittently. Nothing from the hot water side.

Long story shorter, I just re-did the lines so it looks more like I've seen. It took WAAAAAY longer than it should have, but that's the way it goes I guess when you don't really know what you're doing and have to go back to the store to get another this or that at each step. But it's finally on and working and coming out of both faucets, and most importantly, no leaks!!!

Now all that said, the pump still runs a lot. I thought the accumulator was supposed to make it possible for the pump to run less, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Anyone have any experience with accumulators? Does the pressure need to be higher or lower to stop the pump from running? I have it set to 35 psi and the pump is 50 psi. It came set up to 30 psi for the average 45 psi pump.

Our 30 yo Sears Craftsman corded drill bit the dust just as I was starting the bed frame, so had to go and get another drill. Got the bed frame mostly done and will hopefully finish it all tomorrow.

We plan to take it to Chaco Canyon this weekend. Leave Thursday night and stay in Alamosa and then leave to Chaco on Friday morning. Enjoy the equinox Sunday a.m. and back home Monday.

I think that will be a good test trip to see how everything works.

More later.....