Wiring solar direct to charge controller

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grandpa pete

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Looking for info on wiring solar panels without all the multiple connectors
My past experience with telecommunication equipment leans me toward soldering the leads off the panels together and running 8 guage to the Charge Controller .
This configuration would alleviate any problems with the clip on connectors and the larger wire to the controller would conduct better...
Does anyone have a reason I shouldn't do it this way ???
 
You can do it that way, (I did) but I suggest you leave a connector, fuse, or switch, in there somewhere so that the entire array can be disconnected from the controller if needed.
 
Be aware that cutting the connectors off will probably void the warranty on the panels.
 
Just and FYI on how I did it.
My two 120W panels from Panasonic had Junction Boxes with no wires attached. I probably would have discarded the wires that use connectors anyways. I used 8Ga stranded copper wire. Short set runs from one panel to the other and then from the panel through the roof, down my B pillar and then to a Tri-Star TS-45 PWM controller. I installed a 15 amp rated single pole switch on the controller to break the hot leg for service work. Total run is about 10 feet.
This has worked well now for 4 years on my Ford E-150
 
MikeRuth said:
Just and FYI on how I did it.
My two 120W panels from Panasonic had Junction Boxes with no wires attached. I probably would have discarded the wires that use connectors anyways. I used 8Ga stranded copper wire. Short set runs from one panel to the other and then from the panel through the roof, down my B pillar and then to a Tri-Star TS-45 PWM controller. I installed a 15 amp rated single pole switch on the controller to break the hot leg for service work. Total run is about 10 feet.
This has worked well now for 4 years on my Ford E-150
Thanks for the input …..question ; is there a fuse between the panels and the controller or between the controller and the batteries......I am looking for a fuse holder that will work with 8ga wire
 
grandpa pete said:
Thanks for the input …..question ; is there a fuse between the panels and the controller or between the controller and the batteries......I am looking for a fuse holder that will work with 8ga wire

I have a fuse between the panels and the controller, per Morningstar instructions, a 70A fuse for a 45A controller.  I use ANL fuses as there is less voltage drop across the fuse.  It makes it easy to disconnect the solar panels: just pul the fuse.

You should ALWAYS have a fuse in the battery positive cable, as close to the battery as possible to eliminate a possible fire if there is a short somewhere.  Again I use a 70A ANL fuse.

ANL fuse holders are easy to make, I used phenolic, but wood would work.  Can be made for any sized wire (I have 4 gauge).  Blue sea makes a good ANL fuse block but the cheap, plastic stereo holder will work; just don't use the cheap ANL fuses, get the good ones from Blue Sea.
 
grandpa pete said:
My past experience with telecommunication equipment leans me toward soldering the leads off the panels together and running 8 guage to the Charge Controller .
Does anyone have a reason I shouldn't do it this way ???

if you are going to solder connection make sure you provide sufficient support close to each joint. soldered connection and vibration from driving tend to cause breaks in the wire over time

a proper (emphasis on proper) crimp connection will match any solder connection and is a lot easier and quicker
 
Seminole Wind said:
if you are going to solder connection make sure you provide sufficient support close to each joint. soldered connection and vibration from driving tend to cause breaks in the wire over time

a proper (emphasis on proper) crimp connection will match any solder connection and is a lot easier and quicker
How would I go about crimping four 10 guage wires to one 8 guage ???
 
One way it can be done, using a junction box: . Very handy for making changes, additions etc.
 
a junction box is a great way to clean up wire. however I would stay away from those pinch screw type terminal strips. they come loose especially in a mobile environment. hell they even come loose in a non-mobile environment. go with a traditional terminal strip that uses ring terminals. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
a junction box is a great way to clean up wire.  however I would stay away from those pinch screw type terminal strips.  they come loose especially in a mobile environment.  hell they even come loose in a non-mobile environment.  go with a traditional terminal strip that uses ring terminals.  

Agreed. I have seen it happen with my controllers that use pinch teminals, and had to troubleshoot others who have had this problem as well.

It helps a lot if you either 'tin' the bare wire before inserting, or use pin terminals, either crimped or soldered. 

https://www.grainger.com/category/p...electrical-supplies/electrical/ecatalog/N-qei

Pushing a bare, stranded copper wire into that opening and tightening the screw is wishful thinking at best.
 
tx2sturgis said:
Agreed. I have seen it happen with my controllers that use pinch teminals, and had to troubleshoot others who have had this problem as well.

It helps a lot if you either 'tin' the bare wire before inserting, or use pin terminals, either crimped or soldered. 

https://www.grainger.com/category/p...electrical-supplies/electrical/ecatalog/N-qei

Pushing a bare, stranded copper wire into that opening and tightening the screw is wishful thinking at best.
" tinning " the ends is a great idea " I should have thought of that " …. Thanks for helping
 

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