Wire management behind 'fridge

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BradKW

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With the depth of my fridge around 24", and it will be wired 24v and 110v, I'm wondering how to manage the wires. Figure it'll need to get plugged in while sitting out of cabinet, so really looking at nearly 36".

It has 24v pigtails, so what do I crimp on for a detachable connection?

I'd rather not have all those wires just getting randomly shoved back by the fridge base, and was thinking of something like a lighter leash that would tension them upward somewhat neatly. I googled "retracting wire mechanism" but didn't see what I had in mind. Any suggestions?
 
BradKW said:
With the depth of my fridge around 24", and it will be wired 24v and 110v, I'm wondering how to manage the wires. Figure it'll need to get plugged in while sitting out of cabinet, so really looking at nearly 36".

It has 24v pigtails, so what do I crimp on for a detachable connection?

I'd rather not have all those wires just getting randomly shoved back by the fridge base, and was thinking of something like a lighter leash that would tension them upward somewhat neatly. I googled "retracting wire mechanism" but didn't see what I had in mind. Any suggestions?

Vending machine drawers use springs tied to the drawers wiring harness , seems to work well.
Note: the snack drawers slide out for filling the bags of chips and such.
 
https://www.amazon.com/KEY-BAK-SIDE...1A7KWA0K1WJCR0120&ie=UTF8&qid=1478577217&sr=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRK9O70?psc=1

Twist the DC wires in a drill fairty tightly.  Put in split loom. 

My fridge has anderson powerpoles on the DC input so I can easily hook my wattmeter inline.  I have a little access hatch to reach compressor controller for other cabinet partition.

002copy2_zps55bd4f66.jpg



012copy2_zpsdf3070bb.jpg

  I slide fridge in place then stick my head and arms  in adjacent cabinet and hook Anderson powerpoles together.

YOu can always use the same type of quick connect that the compressor controller uses.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013G4OP7A?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Grad...81&sr=8-22&keywords=male+10-12+quick+connects

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019N3PQ0I?psc=1
 
nowhere for an access door? that refer doesn't require a vent? most RV refers have a low and a high vent that's how you access the wiring. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
nowhere for an access door? that refer doesn't require a vent? most RV refers have a low and a high vent that's how you access the wiring. highdesertranger


That is what I was thinking. An rv style fridge should have a pretty big vent behind it. Unless it is not gas model? Not sure about the pure electric models. I would think you still need to move air over the condenser coil. Just my two cents...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ventilation is part of the AC intake stack and not accessible once fridge is in cubby unless I wanted an access panel low on shower wall... 

IMG_20161016_121435_zpsrbxck9ep.jpg

IMG_20161023_111026_zpsm1gobvz6.jpg
 
Not really on topic, but is that fridge 12v? 8; so, what is it?

Thanks :D
 
It vents out the top of wheel well, so can't be seen from outside unless you stick your head in...I"ll take a pic next weekend.

The fridge runs off of either 110v, 24v, or 12v ...can switch between them on the fly.  It's a Vitrifrigo 2600
 
If you really need a retracting tether, I think you can get long springs in the hardware store the old screen door style before they had the hydraulic closer mechanisms, or maybe you could use shock cord - its that skinny bungee cord stuff that is inside things like aluminum tent poles.
 

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