Why I choose to follow a 5th wheeler path

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I kind of watch the ads for trailers and such things....I have seen 5th wheels as short ass 19 ft advertised. I imagine they dont weigh a whole lot. Most of them have the dual axles.....A few pics I Googled

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highdesertranger said:
I would look into a gooseneck.  I believe a gooseneck beats a 5er hands down.

Question for you.  Isn't it harder to back up and hook up to a gooseneck than it is to a 5th wheel?
 
to hook up a goose is a little harder until you get the hang of it. with 2 people it's easy. I used to hook up our goose by myself all the time. there are gadgets to help, I have never tried them. if that is the only downside I would say it's a nonissue. a goose neck has all the advantages of a 5er without that big old ugly hitch taking up 1/4 of your bed. when you unhook a goose you still have the whole bed. when hooked up you also have more room in the bed. like I said nonissue. I would like to add, a goose is no harder to hook up then a bumper pull. same thing get the ball under the hitch. highdesertranger
 
For those of us uninformed about the these things:  What is the difference between a gooseneck and a 5th wheel?

 -- Spiff
 
A gooseneck trailer hooks up to a ball, the 5th wheels is like a smaller version of a tractor trailer setup.  The ball is easily unscrewed when you want to use it as a pickup, the 5th wheel hitch is a major PITA to remove or install.
 

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and the 5th wheel hitch pictured is a pretty compact version
out here in the sticks, most recess the goose hitch below the bed surface, under a lift out plate
However, I am unaware of any RV sold that attaches to a gooseneck hitch
 
You mostly see goosenecks on livestock trailers and heavy equipment haulers, sometimes on large boat trailers.

I don't know how much work it would be to change one out for the other on a trailer; or even if it's possible.  Wonder if it's an option you could specify when ordering a new RV trailer?  I do know you can buy the larger cargo trailers with goosenecks.
 
Are there conversion kits to make any fifth wheeler into a gooseneck? Was looking at the official towing capacity of my 2006 Toyota Tacoma as 7000 pounds.


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There are, I saw mention of them when I googled goose neck trailers because you're not the only one who would like a goose neck RV.

They were talked about on a couple of other forums that I found.

Apparently there are some limitations to them because they have to be structurally welded on if they are going to be really stable and not twist.

You can get gooseneck cargo trailers from a couple of mfrs that could be converted quite nicely.
 
5ers can be converted to goosenecks. goosenecks are preferred by working people like farmers, ranchers, and construction workers. you can order camping trailers with goosenecks, you see these mostly in rural areas. like I said I have used both, on road and off road. in my opinion a gooseneck wins hands down. highdesertranger
 
I just drove from Moab to just outside of flagstaff pulling 21 foot 5k fifth wheel with half ton Chevy with the 5.3L engine.

I highly recommend that you get a 3/4 ton. Going out of Moab I was pegged at 35-45mph in a one laner for about 10 miles, and going up towards flagstaff fortunately they have 2 lanes so I could just sit in the right lane and slowly drag my ass up the mountain going from 40-55 depending on incline. So, it can be done, but a 3/4 ton is going to be purchased as soon as possible.

It's no fun driving and constantly having to watch the gauges making sure it doesn't over heat and blow up. Occasionally you will have to pull over for 30-45 minutes and let it cool down, especially going over the passes when you get to the top.

Another thing to consider is the decent, it's not bad except the passes. I ride in 3rd or 2nd gear and still have to ride the brakes on the steep parts, with a bigger truck with a better tranny it'll just do the work for you and save the brakes.

If 1/2 is the only vehicle in the budget it can work, but it'll be a hassle anytime you do the mountain driving. If you do go with the half ton, a 5.7 liter should improve it quite a bit as well.
 
I agree. I have a 2013 Chevy with a 5.3 and it's rated to tow 8k lbs and towing my 5k lb trailer works the crap out of that engine, I could never imagine towing my camper around the country, it's just too stressful for me and the truck!
 
I heard 5k pounds towing weight once. So at least we have a number that research with. Let's talk road grades. Are we saying 30 degree will be too stressful on an engine? Will need to see and hear and read what people are doing with steep grade roads. And what happens to the engine. At least learned I want a thermometer sensor on my transmission.

As far as statements about Engines getting over stressed. Well you tow 10k pounds and it's going to be a problem.


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In not familiar with the degree to grade % scale but 7% bogged down to 35mph. I just drove 89a into Sedona today and there's not a chance in hell I would make it up that if I tried, I'd rather drive 100 miles around then try that.

Most steep grades I've driven were short bursts (1-2 miles at most), the longer stretches have 2 lanes so it's not as bad. If you get stuck on a one lane pass going up a steep pass you'll have a huge line. I'd guess it took me 10 minutes going down 89a and it would take at least 30 minutes to crawl up it wirh a train of cars backed up, I don't even know if I'd make it without having to repetively stop.

I know I wouldn't want to drive up anything bigger than 7% unless I had to. Another things going down, when you shift down into 3/2/1 gear irl jacks up your pressure because your Rpms sky rocket so you'll be riding brakes.
 
The worse thing you can do is ride the brakes. They heat up and will eventually smoke from the heat. Brake hard and lower your speed to below what it needs to be and let it ride up until you need to brake hard again. This way your brakes cool in between.
 
Jim gave really good advice right there, heed it. NEVER I mean NEVER ride your brakes. use your brakes one time to slow way down, then down shift. down shift as much as needed to keep you off the brakes. brakes are for stopping, not for controlling your downhill speed. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
Jim gave really good advice right there, heed it. NEVER I mean NEVER ride your brakes. use your brakes one time to slow way down, then down shift. down shift as much as needed to keep you off the brakes. brakes are for stopping, not for controlling your downhill speed. highdesertranger


How much does the downhill stress in low gear effect an engine and transmission? Think many folks incorrectly believe a brake job is much cheaper that a transmission fix. And it's dangerous too.


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