Which Multimeter? (for absolute greenhorn)

[dr_nelson]

Hey y'all,

I have absolutely no clue about electricity and I know multimeters only from TV/youtube. Seriously, I cannot recall ever holding one in my hand. Since I am getting 360W of Solar with probably 2 x 6V batteries, I figured it's time to get a multimeter (to check "things" and "stuff"). I plan to have an inverter, to run a TV. Not sure if this matters.


This post is really about getting which multimeter, not about how to use them (oh boy, that will be a separate thread... from me...)

I would like something that is beginner-friendly and capable of doing the "van electrical stuff". In my simple world, this includes:

• buying 2 batteries and checking them
• opening the solar panel packages after delivery and checking them if they work
• checking if batteries are being charged
• ...

Are any of the following devices OK? Again, keep in mind that I know squat and only chose them because of reviews and price.

1.  Etekcity MSR-R500 Digital Multimeter
   [img=451x451]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71SxNNDgcOL._SL1500_.jpg[/img]
   
2. INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter
   [img=272x555]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41xB9KGxQzL.jpg[/img]
3. Crenova MS8233D Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter
   [img=413x413]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71S13gtw8oL._SL1200_.jpg[/img]

Going by the looks, I would go with number 3 Crenova. It looks... well... capable...? :s

If none of these would work, can you suggest what models would work or what to look for?

Any help appreciated!

dr_nelson

 

[John61CT]

UT136B: http://amzn.to/2hjEmF5

 

[John61CT]

Just know the good ones "Fluke" really are worth the money if you're serious, these are toys just to get started.

 

[LeeRevell]

Either would work, but the first would be simplest. Simple is a good thing.
For basic electrical needs, you don't need all the bells and whistles.
I have been using multimeters since becoming an avionics tech in 1976, USAF. Later an electronic tech in the USN. I like my gear simple.

 

[wagoneer]

I agree i use a basic analog meter. This comes down to the "in the right hands" category.

 

[Weight]

If you are looking for a cheap meter that works, I get the ones Harbor Freight gives free with a coupon. These are used around the shop, and somehow are not stolen. The wire leads will break after a bit, but I have many of them. I also have a Fluke, kept safe until I need it. I think I bought that at Lowe's. I also have one from Radio Shack, it was really cheap due to some strange sales they have. It is a clamp-on AC/DC amp meter and multimeter combination. It works surprisingly well, compared with my Fluke.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Meter #2 because the readout is 4 digits, not 3 as the others. Plus autoranging is a nice feature to have.

I don't trust the accuracy of those cheap harbor freight meters. When checking a battery, the difference between 12.5 and 12.2 volts is SIGNIFICANT. Cheap crap may be accurate when new, but throw it in a toolbox and bounce it around for a couple of months and who knows?

 

[Trebor English]

I recommend the cheap / free Harbor Freight meters and any of the under $8 Amazon meters.  Often the fuse in the amps circuit is blown and when you go to measure current there is none.  When you have an electrical puzzle a tool issue is hard for newbies to get past due to the confusion generated.

The solution to the fuse problem is a clamp on amp meter.  Additionally the circuit doesn't need to be opened to insert the meter in series.  I recently bought a clamp on multimeter that measures AC and DC amps for $25.50.  I searched and could not find it at Amazon.  If you want a clamp on meter that measures DC amps read the product description carefully.  Some say AC amps, some aren't clear.  Usually DC amps is expensive.  This one really does read AC and DC amps.  With 12 volt DC vehicles and DC solar electrics, an AC amp meter is as useless as ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/122347654840

As to accuracy, I'm not sure yet.  It differs a little from my expensive meter in the lower digits and, like clamps in general, it is sensitive to placement of the wire.  In any case, it is absolutely as good as any $8 meter and, wohoo, it has a DC amp clamp.  For most diagnostic work, that's plenty good.  If you want to set your charger to 14.7 volts, not 14.6 or 14.8 but absolutely 14.7, borrow a $100 meter.

 

[highdesertranger]

keep in mind the test leads on the cheap meters are junk. a quality set of leads cost as much as the cheap meters. highdesertranger

 

[Weight]

My HF meters match volts with my very expensive Fluke meter. The leads are junk and break if bent too often. But the price is right. As volts are the worse way to determine state of charge, I don't care about a few decimals. They are sufficient tools to trouble shoot a problematic circuit.

 

[dr_nelson]

Thanks a bunch everyone! Really appreciate it.
I went with "simple", for now. The #1 should arrive Wednesday.

It's maybe like batteries or your first car. Just start with something simple/cheap and learn...

 

[LeeRevell]

Simple is good for beginners to electrical work. Complex test equipment comes with a steeper learning curve. The last thing you need is wasting time learning to 'drive' the new gear. Better to get right to work.
You can upgrade later as you become more skilled in BE&E (Navyspeak for Basic Electricity and Electronics).

 

[John61CT]

And just because the base unit is so cheap doesn't mean you should not invest in a decent set of leads, since you will probably use them longer than the multimeter

 

[SternWake]

I recommend one gets a AC/DC clamp on multimeter, so they can clamp the meter over a single wire to see how many amps are flowing through it, without opening the circuit hooking DMM in series with the load, and being limited to ~10 amps as most multimeters are.

Many cheaper clampmeters are only AC, so AC/DC clampmeters are no less than 32$.

The HF centech meters are certainly good enough for volts and Ohms and amperages less than 6 amps. The voltage drifts over time but they have an adjustment potentiometer inside, but of course one needs an accurate meter for calibrating it.

I have no personal experience with the following clampmeter. Linking it does not indicate a product recommendation, only an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-UT210E..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=17NS2HT4J7CBCEWYAAKF

 

[rvpopeye]

Two digits beyond the decimal.........................

 

[Weight]

My cheap multimeters from Harbor Freight are free with an easy to find coupon. No need to buy expensive leads, I just get another meter.