Which e350?

[deezdrama]

Going to buy an e350 extended van to convert into a camper/ shtf mobile....

Ive found 3 locally and cant decide which to get.


A 2002 v10 extended- no windows which I think will be better for insulating. No visible rust. 170k miles.
Said he hauled a bike in it but just recently developed a miss...hopeing its just coils or plugs.

The same guy also has a 98 extended with a 5.4 that runs fine. Not sure on price yet but says the body is a little beat up. The 5.4 would be better on gas mileage but will the 5.4 have enough balls to haul a fully loaded down extended van full of furniture and gear?

My third option is a 96 extended with the 351 v8 and 220k miles. Looks sharp! Has hightop! But I have no experience with this engine. Also the fan is fully windowed.

Im a skilled do it yourself-er.

I can do mechanic work/weld/cabinet and wood work/elect etc....

I just want to make sure I start with a good base for the project.
Is one of the above options more reliable than the rest?
Should the one with a high top be priority since I do want more headroom? Or should i go with the newer 2002 v10 and just hope its the coils and plugs (what it sounds like to me...he said hes not a mechanic and that it has lost power and acts like its missing after it sat 3 months)
Are windows not prefered if paneling/insulating sides?

Any suggestions are appreciated...thanks!

 

[29chico]

Since you said "Any suggestions" I'm going to suggest you consider a GM Savana/Express. 

The Ford & Dodge extended vans have the same length wheelbase as the regular length versions.  The GM extended vans have a longer wheelbase and drive and ride much better. Safer also as they are harder to roll over because they do not have a anywhere as much weight hanging behind the rear axle.

If you can find an older Ford van with the 5.8 (AKA 351) and a C6 trans you would have a drive-line that would hold up if maintained well and be cheap to fix.  But don't expect good fuel economy. 

Have you studied up on the spark plug issues on the Ford 5.4 and v10 engines? 

I was a Ford trucks only guy for decades, not anymore.

 

[DannyB1954]

Be very Leary of just needs this or that. Even if the person is honest, they really don't know. The just needs a tune up can really be needs a valve job or timing chain. Tell them when you get it done give me a call. Courts do not recognize fluffery as a verbal contract. Someone can say you can drive this another million miles, and that is not considered a promise or contract. It might not make it down the block. Just sales fluffery, not binding in court.

I have never been a Ford fan. Parts tend to cost more probably because they changed them so often in the same model. You not only have to know what year the van was made, but also sometimes what week, (they would change suppliers during the model year and have to redesign for the part to fit). The V10 engines had a reputation for stripped sparkplug holes. I used to repair these myself on other vehicles. Hook the exhaust hose from a shop vacuum up to the exhaust pipe. rotate the engine by hand until air blows out the sparkplug hole. Now when you retap the hole any metal will fly out, not in.

I like Dodge vehicles, ( Love my Dodge Dakota), but one thing the vans have against them in my opinion is if there is rust. The chassis are unibody. I live in the Western States, so rust is usually not an issue, but back East it may be a factor. When the body goes, so does the frame. So when it comes to ANY suggestions, I would agree that my first choice would be a GM product.

 

[steamjam1]

Be very Leary of just needs this or that. Even if the person is honest, they really don't know. The just needs a tune up can really be needs a valve job or timing chain. Tell them when you get it done give me a call. Courts do not recognize fluffery as a verbal contract. Someone can say you can drive this another million miles, and that is not considered a promise or contract. It might not make it down the block. Just sales fluffery, not binding in court.

I have never been a Ford fan. Parts tend to cost more probably because they changed them so often in the same model. You not only have to know what year the van was made, but also sometimes what week, (they would change suppliers during the model year and have to redesign for the part to fit).  The V10 engines had a reputation for stripped sparkplug holes. I used to repair these myself on other vehicles. Hook the exhaust hose from a shop vacuum up to the exhaust pipe. rotate the engine by hand until air blows out the sparkplug hole. Now when you retap the hole any metal will fly out, not in.

I like Dodge vehicles, ( Love my Dodge Dakota), but one thing the vans have against them in my opinion is if there is rust. The chassis are unibody. I live in the Western States, so rust is usually not an issue, but back East it may be a factor. When the body goes, so does the frame. So when it comes to ANY suggestions, I would agree that my first choice would be a GM product.

I gotta agree with the Dodge rust issues. The first thing to go on Dodges are the steering idler arm mounts on the frame. The Dodge LA series engines are great, and the A999/A727 are smooth and tough transmissions. I don't care much for the suspension.

When it comes to Ford, I really like the Windsor engines. The fuel injection is much better then Dodge. The suspension is light-years ahead of Dodge. Parts prices are about the same.. cept electrics. I had to buy a turn signal switch for my '89 B150 4x4 and it was $170!!.. I bought one for my Ford and it was $40.

The thing I gotta say abut Ford is that the body/chassis creaks more then the Dodge. I attribute that to having a full frame with body mounts, vs Dodge which is unichassis,

 

[eDJ_]

Gotta cosign with steamjam,  I have an E 350 90 model with 351 fuel injected.  It has an auto/overdrive and is the windowless high top extended.   My family has had 351w's since I was a kid and they are a well reputed service engine.  The frame under the Van is some rugged stuff,  I realized that the first time I tried to drill holes
to mount things.

A friend of mine had a Dodge Van and as has been mentioned we were always trying to shore up the frame for that idler.  Thing ran great on the highway with a full load and never any worries from the 318 V8 and 727 Torqueflite.   If only the body was built as durable.

Those V 10's can be a nightmare.   I can't believe the engineers would put such a thin thread bore in those heads and specify plugs with reaches extending way into the combustion chamber.   If I ever had the plugs out of one I'd get some "indexing washers" to shim them where the threads would not extend into the combustion chamber where they wouldn't carbon up such that the plug couldn't be removed.

In my high school days I worked in a Gas Station with an old mechanic who had some interesting solutions for
decarbonizing combustion chambers.  One of them was to melt a block of canning paraffin wax and add a can of 30 wt motor oil to it and mix it well.   A piece about the size of a bar of soap was melted and added to a gallon of gasoline and that added  to a full tank.  It tended to burn the carbon out of the engine.  On later ones he made a water injector out of a bicycle canteen and an aquarium stone (bubbler) to dampen the intake air.  I guess because of catalytic converters.  But if I were to buy the V10,  I'd consider cleaning up the
combustion chambers for a month or two before even trying to pull the plugs.  Even back them out a half a turn and spritz them with PB Blaster or something and let them soak for a day or so before trying to work them out of the head.   Otherwise the people I've talked to who were running a Triton V 10 in a Ford Van liked the way they ran. 

I'd stick with my 351 V8 just the same.  But I'll warn you they aren't easy to replace the plugs in due to the tight places, and replacing the plug wires is a challenge too.  I've done it.   I suggest using Motorcraft or Autolite plugs and Ford ignition cables OEM.  If you should go with the Ford Van.  The only thing I'd look into
would be replacing the timing chain and gears before starting out across the country.

 

[deezdrama]

Thanks guys for all the replies. I didnt get any chevy suggestions on another forum I asked. I was a chevy guy my whole life untill I got a couple 4.6l mod motored p71 crown vics. Got an 07 with 300k miles and it runs as good as my 2010 with 100k.
I have a 5.4l navigator but its the ol ladys and only towed a boat with it a few times so not much opinion on that one.
I have a 93 suburban in the backyard with only 100k miles and rust free. 5.7 runs like a top and reliable but the 4l60e trans has went out twice. Last one i got from a low mileage astrovan ....changed seals ,new filter and fluid and it lasted about 4 years. It started to shift hard so parked it a few years ago. Probably time to sell it.
Anyway.... fords kind of grew on me now. Seems like ive had cooling problems with every chevy ive owned.
I would consider one but they just dont seem to be listed much around here.

So ...ive heard about the fords blowing spark plugs out of the block. I didnt realize the 2002 v10 was one of those with that issue.

The 2002 v10 has 170k miles. No visable body rot or rust. Windowless , and could proba ly get for $1200-1300
But if it indeed has those shallow plug threads ...maybe I should steer clear.

The 96 351 has 220k miles and says it runs great with a newer trans. Its fully windowed which I dont like and have mixed feelings about the hightop. The headroom is great but dont care for the box look of it.
He wants $1700 firm.

Only chevy ive found is out of my projects budget right now.
Arent chevys easier/cheaper to lift?
Id like to get a 6" and rear lock on whatever i get.

 

[akrvbob]

Get a Chevy Expres with a 5.3. You'll be glad you did.
Bob

 

[murphy52]

Going to buy an e350 extended van to convert into a camper/ shtf mobile....

Ive found 3 locally and cant decide which to get.


A 2002 v10 extended- no windows which I think will be better for insulating. No visible rust. 170k miles.
Said he hauled a bike in it but just recently developed a miss...hopeing its just coils or plugs.

The same guy also has a 98 extended with a 5.4 that runs fine. Not sure on price yet but says the body is a little beat up. The 5.4 would be better on gas mileage but will the 5.4 have enough balls to haul a fully loaded down extended van full of furniture and gear?

My third option is a 96 extended with the 351 v8 and 220k miles. Looks sharp! Has hightop! But I have no experience with this engine. Also the fan is fully windowed.

Im a skilled do it yourself-er.

I can do mechanic work/weld/cabinet and wood work/elect etc....

I just want to make sure I start with a good base for the project.
Is one of the above options more reliable than the rest?
Should the one with a high top be priority since I do want more headroom? Or should i go with the newer 2002 v10 and just hope its the coils and plugs (what it sounds like to me...he said hes not a mechanic and that it has lost power and acts like its missing after it sat 3 months)
Are windows not prefered if paneling/insulating sides?

Any suggestions are appreciated...thanks!

I'm on my second v10 (first a truck and now I have a 1998 E350) and I have not had any trouble with the spark plugs.  I torque them tighter than factory specs.  The v10 runs great on the highway (where I drive the most) and has plenty of power and torque.  I've had the 351 before and it was also a good engine.  The main reason I chose Ford over GM is that I find it to be more comfortable.  To each his own.

 

[deezdrama]

Im going to go look at the 96 351. I talked to the guy. He got it to turn into a camper but ended up with a motorhome. Said the previous owner had engine replaced with a newer lower mileage 351 and rebuilt the trans then it was kept in a barn.

My question is. If i put a 2" lift block in the rear and the 2" leveling spacer upfront could I fit 33" tires? A little fender cutting is ok...i can weld and do body work.
Would just a 2" spacer upfront throw off alignment?

I only plan to drive this to local campgrounds a few times a year.

Thanks guys!

 

[GotSmart]

Im going to go look at the 96 351. I talked to the guy. He got it to turn into a camper but ended up with a motorhome. Said the previous owner had engine replaced with a newer lower mileage 351 and rebuilt the trans then it was kept in a barn.

My question is. If i put a 2" lift block in the rear and the 2" leveling spacer upfront could I fit 33" tires? A little fender cutting is ok...i can weld and do body work.
Would just a 2" spacer upfront throw off alignment?

I only plan to drive this to local campgrounds a few times a year.

Thanks guys!

The two words that cause the most grief when buying a vehicle.

HE SAID.  

Get a mechanic to look at anything before you buy it.  Think of the money as breakdown insurance.

 

[steamjam1]

Im going to go look at the 96 351. I talked to the guy. He got it to turn into a camper but ended up with a motorhome. Said the previous owner had engine replaced with a newer lower mileage 351 and rebuilt the trans then it was kept in a barn.

My question is. If i put a 2" lift block in the rear and the 2" leveling spacer upfront could I fit 33" tires? A little fender cutting is ok...i can weld and do body work.
Would just a 2" spacer upfront throw off alignment?

I only plan to drive this to local campgrounds a few times a year.

Thanks guys!

Yes. It will throw off the alignment, as it is a TTB equipped Ford, Your going to have to fiddle with the beams. 33"s on a van? hmmm I can see 30's, or 31's...

I would be wary of previous owner claims. Have a tech check it out.

 

[DannyB1954]

Im going to go look at the 96 351. I talked to the guy. He got it to turn into a camper but ended up with a motorhome. Said the previous owner had engine replaced with a newer lower mileage 351 and rebuilt the trans then it was kept in a barn.

My question is. If i put a 2" lift block in the rear and the 2" leveling spacer upfront could I fit 33" tires? A little fender cutting is ok...i can weld and do body work.
Would just a 2" spacer upfront throw off alignment?

I only plan to drive this to local campgrounds a few times a year.

Thanks guys!

Putting larger diameter tires on a vehicle can cause problems if you do not also get the gearing changed in the differential. 
The tire diameter is actually part of the overall gear ratio of the vehicle. Without differential gear change, you will be losing torque with bigger tires. The speedometer will read lower than your actual speed. Lifing the vehicle so that you can use larger tires creates problems of it's own. You also may need to get aftermarket suspension parts like idler and steering gear arms. I don't know if they make kits for rack and pinion steering units.
My opinion is for a few times a year it is not worth the effort to modify a vehicle. Resale value of vehicle also goes down. You may be able to buy a used unit that someone already has put more money into than they can get back out.