what wire to use for switches, lights, fans, etc

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anm

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What wire should I use for general 12 volt wiring in my van? Due to vibration, it seems like solid conductor wire would not be good (none of the van's factory wiring is solid conductor). So I assume the wire should be stranded. How about zip cord? I know for housing construction it's a no-no, but it's used on most electrical appliances so it has to have good abrasion resistance and flexibility. Zip-cord is also easily obtainable in many wire gauges...

Any thoughts?
 
Zip cord is fine.

Just make sure the gauge you use is right for the length and load.


I actually never heard it called zip cord before either. Would have made searching for it easier a few months ago.
 
SternWake said:
Zip cord is fine.

Just make sure the gauge you use is right for the length and load.


I actually never heard it called zip cord before either. Would have made searching for it easier a few months ago.


Ok thanks SternWake, I'll make sure to use the appropriate size...
 
I suggest you use only stranded wire. Home Depot sells it on rolls by the foot. I always look for "seconds" wire they cut that left short runs they reduce the price on.

You've very best bet is to set up a fuse block. You run a heavy, fused wire from the battery to it and then most of your appliances to it. The idea is that all of the items are fused and you can have a shorter run. Put the fuse box central to most of your appliances. The big advantage is you won't have a dozen wires hooked up to your battery. Here is a post I did explaining how to do it.
http://www.cheaprvliving.com/blog/installing-12-volt-fuse-block/

The great majority of your items can be run to the fuse box with either 10 or 14 gauge wire. But there are always exceptions.
Bob
 
i used 14 gauge i bought in spool, and it worked well and nice having extra left over. its flexible, but some of them have harder/stiff insulation, id avoid those.
 
Zip-cord tends to be rated for open-air, not behind walls. Derate the current carrying capacity (use larger wire) when using in confined space, which you want to do anyway at 12v rather than 120v -- acceptable loss is less. Speaker wire has low-temerature insulation and must be derated much further. For large wires (4awg to 4/0) I recomend welding cable, it is more flexable due to being made from many fine strands.
 
They make an automotive zip cord. One side is red, one side is black, which can be helpful. The insulation is rated to resist oil, anti-freeze, etc. Which ordinary household zip cord isn't. You can get it from Amazon.

Regards
John
 
couple of points here. they do make automotive zip wire the black/red stuff like optimistic paranoid stated, that stuff is fine. do not use speaker wire to power anything but speakers. I would not use lamp cord or any 120v wire for 12v apps in a vehicle. not oil, gas, or uv resistant. same with welding cable oil and gas will eat up the insulation, they do make an automotive alternative to welding cable. can't think of what they call it off the top of my head but they do make it. the best wire is marine, tinned copper. that stuff is resistant to everything. highdesertranger
 
Battery cables are usually made from a wire called SAE SGT. The insulation is designed specifically to be highly resistant to oil, gas, anti-freeze, brake fluid, etc.

It is rated for use in areas up to 85 degrees Celsius. SAE SGX is similar wire, rated for temps up to 125 degrees Celsius.

About the only thing welding cable is good for - other than welding - is for making up nice, long, custom jumper cables. Very soft, very flexible, easy to roll up and store.

Regards
John
 
Use a 'voltage drop calculator' that can be found on line. Try to keep the loss at 5% or better yet, 2%. Consider the maximum load for that circuit. In particular, electric motors (i.e, fans) will draw more amperage if the voltage is much off spec. This means more heat is generated and the electrical connections inside deteriorate at a faster rate. Sometime the appliance dies not long afterward.
 
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