Wanting to purchase a decent Class B RV.
- Thread starter Anna57
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C-Cat
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What budget, what age range are you thinking? And what are features you must have? 
DannyB1954
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Anna57 said:
I wouldn't go any older than mid 1990's. In the 80's a lot of vehicles did not get good gas mileage as the fuel and ignition systems were pretty crude by today's standards. The smog control devices needed then to control emissions made things more complicated as well.
Ford had numerous problems with their Triton series engines. The larger Ford engines like the 390 and 460 didn't pass many gas stations before needing to stop at one.
I have a Dodge and like it, but they also had frame rust issues in States that salted the roads. If there is no major rust under it, the Dodge is a good vehicle. So as a general guide, I would look for Chevy.
sephson
Well-known member
I think one of your early steps should be to get an idea of your wants and needs. Spend a bit of time online researching different RV manufactures and what they offer. Here are a couple of sites with links to manufacturers web sites:
https://www.classicvans.com/special...el-and-camper-vans/class-b-manufacturers.html
http://changingears.com/rv-sec-manufacturers-type-b.shtml
https://www.outdoorsy.com/blog/the-big-guide-to-rv-manufacturers
These are all going to be new RV's, but the basics of layout and utilization of space aren't hugely different than older RVs.
Another step in trying to figure out what you want or need would be to visit an RV dealership. Wander the lot. Look at everything that catches your eye. Don't limit this to just class B's. Also look at the smaller class C's and travel trailers. This will help you define what you're looking for. Then, when you're ready to buy something, you'll at least have a starting point. This can also be a good way to get some ideas if you have any thoughts toward building your own.
https://www.classicvans.com/special...el-and-camper-vans/class-b-manufacturers.html
http://changingears.com/rv-sec-manufacturers-type-b.shtml
https://www.outdoorsy.com/blog/the-big-guide-to-rv-manufacturers
These are all going to be new RV's, but the basics of layout and utilization of space aren't hugely different than older RVs.
Another step in trying to figure out what you want or need would be to visit an RV dealership. Wander the lot. Look at everything that catches your eye. Don't limit this to just class B's. Also look at the smaller class C's and travel trailers. This will help you define what you're looking for. Then, when you're ready to buy something, you'll at least have a starting point. This can also be a good way to get some ideas if you have any thoughts toward building your own.
At first, try to figure out how many budget do you have.
Secondly, figure out to buy a new one or a used one?
Thirdly, try to find out 3-5 top RV sellers, and see what kind of model do you like.
At last, make an assessment and the final decision.
Secondly, figure out to buy a new one or a used one?
Thirdly, try to find out 3-5 top RV sellers, and see what kind of model do you like.
At last, make an assessment and the final decision.
Desertthorn
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We downsized to a Class B, and I like it, but the price was way to expensive. Also the bed its so uncomfortable. I suggest looking at a small Calls C.
B and C
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We love our Roadtrek 200 versatile. It is a B+. It has a permanent 10" full bed across the back (I sleep better on it than my high dollar one at the S&B) and a TON of storage. It has a basement accessible from both sides as well as running board storage on the drivers side. This is in addition to all the cabinets (medicine too) and storage in the bath too.
Budget is the biggest. We bought ours for $14K almost 4 years ago. Immediately had to sink $2K into a front end plus new tires. You are not just buying a RV you are also buying the vehicle to carry it. Make sure all the appliances work (heater, water heater, fridge, etc.). Everything needs to be tested in every mode it does. Check for water leak signs, stains, soft places. Dump valves work? Do the tanks or plumbing leak? Not just the plumbing fixtures but the water lines themselves?
As usual, have the running gear checked by your trusted mechanic.
Budget is the biggest. We bought ours for $14K almost 4 years ago. Immediately had to sink $2K into a front end plus new tires. You are not just buying a RV you are also buying the vehicle to carry it. Make sure all the appliances work (heater, water heater, fridge, etc.). Everything needs to be tested in every mode it does. Check for water leak signs, stains, soft places. Dump valves work? Do the tanks or plumbing leak? Not just the plumbing fixtures but the water lines themselves?
As usual, have the running gear checked by your trusted mechanic.
rm.w/aview
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Some good replies here, have you made any progress?
mpruet
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I have a newer class-B and previously had an older class-A diesel. With a class-B you need to think in terms of a van conversion because that is pretty much what a class-B is. I’d stay away from anything which might have cut into the skin of the van. Those are all places where you have a seam and every seam can be a point for future trouble. I’d also stay away from anything which is overly complex. That would include automatic awnings and entry steps. Those are all things which can break and with a class-B the simpler the better.
The most important thing is going to be how much open space there is inside. I wouldn’t want things like a dinette or a mid cabin room. I chose my rig because it had a rear bath/shower which gave me more open space in the main cabin and in a 20 by 7 space having open space is important. Also avoid things which take space and are single purpose usage. You want to take advantage of every cubit foot and having multi-purpose objects helps greatly with that.
Some specifics...
1. Make sure that your rig has proper insulation. A lot of class-Bs have no insulation and can get really cold.
2. Make sure that all plumbing is inside the rig.
3. Check to see if there are heaters and hot water heaters that function on propane as well as electricity.
4. Make sure that the fridge can function off grid as well as when connected.
The most important thing is going to be how much open space there is inside. I wouldn’t want things like a dinette or a mid cabin room. I chose my rig because it had a rear bath/shower which gave me more open space in the main cabin and in a 20 by 7 space having open space is important. Also avoid things which take space and are single purpose usage. You want to take advantage of every cubit foot and having multi-purpose objects helps greatly with that.
Some specifics...
1. Make sure that your rig has proper insulation. A lot of class-Bs have no insulation and can get really cold.
2. Make sure that all plumbing is inside the rig.
3. Check to see if there are heaters and hot water heaters that function on propane as well as electricity.
4. Make sure that the fridge can function off grid as well as when connected.
phyllisindallas
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mpruet, how does one check insulation?mpruet said:
Thanks!
mpruet
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phyllisindallas said:
One of the easiest ways is to just tap on the walls/roof and see if it sounds hollow. You can also search the web to see if folks complained about the rig being unusually cold. Also check to see if the windows are thermal glass.
phyllisindallas
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Thank you! I've been looking at rv ads so every bit of info helps. I wondered what "soft spots" was referring to also until I read this threadmpruet said:
B and C
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When all the plumbing is inside it is considered a 4 season camper. Mine is only 3 season as some of the plumbing is outside. It has been in temps as low as 22 F without freeze ups. This was just an overnight low though. When it gets that cold it is time to move anyway.
My old Roadtrek has some insulation in the walls and is sufficient for most weather. When it is too hot/cold I just move unless the temp will return to being better.
IDK when or if any class B is a 4 season camper with thermal windows (dual-pane?) I put reflectix in the windows for heat/cold control.
My old Roadtrek has some insulation in the walls and is sufficient for most weather. When it is too hot/cold I just move unless the temp will return to being better.
IDK when or if any class B is a 4 season camper with thermal windows (dual-pane?) I put reflectix in the windows for heat/cold control.
max+sophia
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Hi Anna, Have you found your van? If not, my Methuselah thread has photos of two - 1987 Ford (which I wanted but missed out on) and 1989 GMC Gulf Stream. Both Class B
I don't know much about the 1989, as they had just gotten it on the lot the day I stopped by. So I don't know what the price of that one will be. Incidentally, I'm mulling over a Class C, but it's so HUGE.
Good luck.
I don't know much about the 1989, as they had just gotten it on the lot the day I stopped by. So I don't know what the price of that one will be. Incidentally, I'm mulling over a Class C, but it's so HUGE.
Good luck.
I have looked at class b’s and found that a good place to start is on rvtrader. I looked at both dealerships and individual sales . Depending on how far your willing to go there are some nice ones . I found a really nice one for $16,000 . But for me in my situation it was just to small.
