Want to add solar to system with generator, shore & alternator (engine) charging

[completelyhis]

Greetings,

I'm a noob (to the forum and the world of RVs), so I apologize in advance .

I've got a 93' Dodge Ram converted by Sportsman. It currently powers/charges the system with an Onan microlite 2800, shore power, or the van engine running. I'd like to add solar to that mix. I'm fine with the aspect of installing the panels and connecting wires, and would get a kit that comes with the controller and all other tech needed. What I'm confused about is what's needed to integrate the system. I don't want to damage anything, and there aren't any unused connections where I could add solar. There's a *something* that has "solar" on it in the van, but the charging cables from the engine alternator are plugged into it.

Would love any guidance ya'll can provide, thanks in advance!

Ian

 

[MrAlvinDude]

Well the principle is, that you connect the solar panels to the solar controller, and the solar controller to the battery.

Along the way, you will want to use wires thick enough to handle the level of amps from the solar system. And you will want to make sure that there are fuses that can disconnect each part of the system.  

If you connect to a plug somewhere, that says "solar", you will want to verify the the wires after that plug/connector are thick enough to handle the amps from the solar system.
As the solar system is unlikely to be able to deliver any more amps than the alternator you are likely to be fine, by disconnecting the alternator, and connecting the solar controller in stead. But just to be on the safe side, try to identify/verify the thickness/gauge of the wire you plug into.

I assume your rig has a house battery? Otherwise the whole situation is different, and will need more details to be looked into before you would be given the advise to; disconnect the alternator.


If you still want the ability to charge the house battery, when the engine is running, you might be able to manufacture a y-splitter, so the solar controller and the alternator can both be connected to that place where it says "solar".

 

[frater secessus]

Maybe run both into a bus bar, and from there into the "solar" connector.

OP, can you post a pic of the "solar" connection?

 

[highdesertranger]

you just hook it up straight to the battery. no need for integration. the kit you buy should have instructions. once you have the kit and need clarification ask questions we will help you along. now if you want a battery monitor that changes the hookup little. highdesertranger

 

[completelyhis]

Maybe run both into a bus bar, and from there into the "solar" connector.

OP, can you post a pic of the "solar" connection?

Here’s a pic. So I’m hearing you say that the solar can wire the solar controller directly to the battery, bypassing this thing? If so, I assume that wouldn’t be a problem with the generator or shore hookup?

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[John61CT]

Here’s a pic.

That **is** a solar controller, old PWM style. SC made very robust little units

If you use it stick with nominal 12V panels, max say 20-21V. And see if you can find out the max power it will handle may be low.

I'd just pull it out put a modern one in the spot.

 

[completelyhis]

Well, I've discovered a bit more here. I went up top and saw that at one point there must have been solar up there. Ends up there is wiring still there, and the other end of it connects to the "Battery Charge Regulator" pictured above. This leaves me with a mystery, and a question:

Mystery - See the attached pics - this is why I assumed that the system was wired to charge from engine rather than solar. Am I correct in assuming that this wiring is for that purpose? If so, I'm guessing I'll just need to trace it out and see where these wires go. Could this be for any other purpose?

Question: The solar I'm planning on adding is one of the 100 watt kits shown on this forum, like the Harbor Freight one or the other one mentioned in that thread. That being said, should I remove/bypass this Battery Charge Regulator, use it, or replace it?

Thanks all!

Ian

 

[completelyhis]

Well, I've discovered a bit more here. I went up top and saw that at one point there must have been solar up there. Ends up there is wiring still there, and the other end of it connects to the "Battery Charge Regulator" pictured above. This leaves me with a mystery, and a question:

Mystery - See the attached pics - this is why I assumed that the system was wired to charge from engine rather than solar. Am I correct in assuming that this wiring is for that purpose? If so, I'm guessing I'll just need to trace it out and see where these wires go. Could this be for any other purpose?

Question: The solar I'm planning on adding is one of the 100 watt kits shown on this forum, like the Harbor Freight one or the other one mentioned in that thread. That being said, should I remove/bypass this Battery Charge Regulator, use it, or replace it?

Thanks all!

Ian

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[John61CT]

Question: The solar I'm planning on adding is one of the 100 watt kits shown on this forum, like the Harbor Freight one or the other one mentioned in that thread. That being said, should I remove/bypass this Battery Charge Regulator, use it, or replace it?

It is a solar controller. Maybe you can re-use it, but you need to get in touch with the companies involved to find out if it is 4A or 8A or what.

Easier to replace it with a better more modern controller.

 

[highdesertranger]

yep that is a solar controller all you need to do is mount a panel up top and connect the wires. the label with the part # is on the back of the controller the go to ASC website and look up the specs this will tell you what type of panel you can run through the controller. I have 2 of those controllers only difference is mine have the temperature sensor. they work fine for small systems. now if you want to upgrade to a more sophisticated controller that's fine to. you should check that battery isolator and see if it even works. it looks as old as dirt. if you need to replace it go with a solenoid. in fact if it was me I would replace it with a solenoid anyway. highdesertranger

 

[MrAlvinDude]

 I'm guessing I'll just need to trace it out and see where these wires go.

Which ever way you end up choosing, to go, I think tracing the wirering, and making a small drawing, including the components that they are connected to, will always end up serving you well.  And will assist you in avoiding frying stuff by accident.

 

[completelyhis]

I connected the solar array to the included controller (the Harbor Freight one). and connected that to the battery. It worked fine. If it was connected to the previously installed Battery Charger Regulator it didn't work. I still need to figure out about the engine charging the battery while driving...

 

[tx2sturgis]

That **is** a solar controller,  old PWM style. SC made very robust little units

Even older than that....it's a shunt regulator.

 

[John61CT]

That's right, I forgot.

Can still find them https://thesolarstore.com/specialty-concepts-asc-1212e-switching-shunt-charge-controller-p-837.html

I got a dozen 8A with the "F" adjustability option for a great price when that was being discontinued. Forgot what project it was for even

 

[completelyhis]

Would there be an advantage to replacing it with an upgraded device? If so what would you recommend? Would it help in setting up to charge off of engine alternator?


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[frater secessus]

I think I'd run the alternator charging wiring right into the house battery and run the panel into the existing controller for now, unless you get a new controller with the kit you mention. 

There would be some amount of improvement going from shunt to PWM, but not as much as one might think.  If it is set up like their other controllers, it basically cycles between 13.5v and 14.3v, so let's say 13.9v average.   A PWM could hold the 14.3v and you'd get about 3.5% more power that way.  Not worth buying another controller, IMO, but worth bolting on a PWM if you already have it.   The shunt is set up for decent performance at factory settings.

If you get a basic 100W Renogy kit  it will come with its own PWM controller.  If you plan to stick with PWM I'd pick the one with the polycrystalline panel.  If you think you might go MPPT at some point I'd choose the monocrystalline panel.  I won't derail by taking MPPT talk any further.

 

[John61CT]

Just note before plugging a panel into that old one, get the specific model#, find the right spec sheets and manual, and confirm it can handle your panel(s).

Lots of those ASCs were tiny, e.g. 4A might get burnt out on a nice day from one 100W panel.